Friday, 13 Sept
The Journey from Idaho Falls, ID to Gardiner, MT
Today, we drove to Gardiner near the North Entrance of Yellowstone National Park. We chose the route that would take us to the West Entrance where we would go through the park and out the North Entrance.
We went through the various potato barns and irrigation canals of Idaho Falls to US-20 N. We drove north through croplands until we reached the Caribou-Targhee National Forest. We stopped at Teton Overlook, but the overcast skies kept us from the western side of the Tetons.
As we drove through the national forest, we saw signs announcing the year the trees in that area were planted, which was interesting.
As US 20 crossed the Henrys Fork River, it began a climb to Targhee Pass (7,072 ft) located in the Henry Lake Mountains (part of the Rocky Mountains). Targhee Pass is part of the Continental Divide and marks the boundary of the Idaho/Montana State Line. Historically, Targhee Pass is most well known for the Nez Perce War, during which Chief Joseph utilized the pass circa 1877 to evade the U.S. Cavalry.
We entered the West Entrance of Yellowstone National Park and stopped at a pullover on West Entrance Road for lunch. This road follows the Madison River, meandering through open meadows and forested areas.
After lunch, we turned north at Madison Junction on Grand Loop. The road ascended gently through forested landscapes, with occasional open areas, until we reached the Golden Gate Canyon when it descended nearly 800 feet over the next five miles. The sheer drops along the canyon road made Lisa nervous. We turned onto North Entrance Road toward Gardiner at the Mammoth Hot Springs administrative area. The narrow, curvy road descended sharply for the next four miles, losing about 980 feet in elevation until we reached Gardiner.
Yellowstone RV Park
Yellowstone RV Park is halfway down a bluff overlooking the Yellowstone River just north of Gardiner. The office was at the top of the bluff, and a steep gravel road took us to a flat area on the side of the bluff where the campground was located. Some “river view” sites were near the bluff’s edge, but we had a full-hookup pull-through site away from the bluff. We had a tree, but the limbs were low, and I worried they might poke my roof. Tow vehicles had to park sideways in front of their campers.
Mammoth Hot Springs
After setting up our camper, we headed back into Yellowstone National Park to explore the iconic Mammoth Hot Springs. This geothermal wonder is one of the park’s most fascinating and ever-changing landscapes, known for its otherworldly formations and striking colors.
We began our visit at the top of the Mammoth Hot Springs boardwalk. From there, we walked down the terraces, marveling at the intricate, cascading formations of travertine. These terraces are formed by hot water rising through the limestone, cooling at the surface, and depositing calcium carbonate. This process creates a dynamic and ever-evolving landscape as the flow of water shifts and deposits new layers over time.
The terraces shimmered with shades of white, orange, yellow, and green. These vibrant hues are the result of thermophilic microorganisms thriving in the hot water, with the specific colors determined by water temperature and mineral composition. Some terraces appeared pristine and starkly white, while others were streaked with vivid tones, creating an artistic blend of nature’s palette.
The boardwalk provided excellent views of the striking Palette Spring and the intricate Minerva Terrace. The flowing water and the rising steam added to the surreal atmosphere, making it feel like we had stepped into a living sculpture garden.
After we returned to our vehicle, we drove the Upper Terrace Drive. This one-way, 1.5-mile scenic road took us to more dramatic formations such as Orange Spring Mound and the ethereal White Elephant Back Terrace.
Norris Geyser Basin
We then made a quick drive to the Norris Geyser Basin. Parking there is typically a challenge due to its popularity, but since it was late in the day, we were fortunate to find a spot relatively close to the entrance.
Norris Geyser Basin is renowned as Yellowstone’s hottest, oldest, and most dynamic thermal area. The highest temperature ever recorded in the park—an astonishing 459°F—was measured just 1,087 feet below the surface in this basin, highlighting the intense geothermal activity beneath.
The basin is divided into two distinct areas: the Porcelain Basin and the Back Basin. The Porcelain Basin is an otherworldly landscape with a 3/4-mile boardwalk winding through its stark, steaming terrain and milky, pastel-colored thermal pools. In contrast, the Back Basin is a more forested area, offering a mix of geysers, fumaroles, and colorful hot springs along a 1.5-mile boardwalk trail. There was also a museum, but it was closed when we arrived.
We first walked over to the Porcelain Basin Overlook, then down to the Steamboat Geyser in the Back Basin. Steamboat Geyser did a lot of gurgling while we were there, but it never erupted.
Silver Gate
On our way back to the camper, we drove through Silver Gate, where we were surrounded by a striking jumble of white and gray rocks that seemed to stretch on for miles.
The area gets its name from the striking appearance of the rocks and formations in the area. “Silver” refers to the silvery, white color of the travertine and other rocks that dominate the landscape. Over time, the mineral deposits in the region, including calcium carbonate, create the gleaming, pale-colored surfaces of the collapsed terraces. The word “Gate” is likely a reference to how the area serves as a natural passage or “gate” to enter the Yellowstone National Park’s northern regions, especially near the entrance close to the small town of Gardiner.
This unique geological area results from a dramatic collapse of a travertine hot-spring terrace, similar to the ones found at Mammoth Hot Springs. The rocks, some stacked in unusual formations, were once part of the active hot springs system that helped create the famous terraces at Mammoth.
The collapse that led to the creation of Silver Gate occurred when the natural thermal features of the area, over time, weakened the structure of the terrace. The travertine, a form of limestone deposited by mineral-rich hot water, began to crumble and fall, leaving behind these jagged, white, and gray rocks. The area now stands as a reminder of the dynamic and ever-changing nature of the park’s geothermal landscape.
Norris to Gardiner
As we returned to the camper, the setting sun cast a golden glow across the landscape, illuminating the wildlife that dotted the roadsides, particularly near the Mammoth Hot Springs area and the fields around Gardiner. We spotted bison, pronghorn, and elk as we drove.
Saturday, 14 Sept
Undine Falls
Today, we spent the day driving along the Grand Loop Road and exploring the many wonders of Yellowstone National Park.
One of our stops was at Undine Falls, located about four miles east of Mammoth Hot Springs on the road toward Tower-Roosevelt. There is a convenient roadside pullout that offers a fantastic vantage point to observe Undine Falls without needing to hike. The falls, nestled within a forested canyon, cascade gracefully down three tiers for a total height of approximately 60 feet. The water plunges from Lava Creek, a tributary of the Yellowstone River.
The name “Undine” originates from German mythology, where it refers to water spirits or elemental beings associated with bodies of water, particularly waterfalls.
Petrified Tree
We took a brief detour along Petrified Road in Yellowstone, where we had the chance to witness a remarkable relic from the distant past. This road leads to a fascinating petrified redwood tree that dates back over 50 million years, offering a glimpse into a time long before Yellowstone became the geothermal wonderland it is today.
The story of this tree begins during a series of massive volcanic eruptions that occurred millions of years ago. These eruptions buried entire forests in ash and volcanic rock, and over time, the mineral-rich silica in the volcanic ash seeped into the trees. This process, known as petrification, preserved the once-living trees as solid stone, creating stunning fossilized remnants that still stand today.
The petrified redwood we saw is one of the largest of its kind in Yellowstone. It has been carefully protected within a fenced area to ensure its preservation for future generations. Standing before this ancient, stone-like giant, it’s hard not to feel a deep sense of awe and wonder at the vastness of geologic time and the power of nature’s processes.
Tower Fall
We then continued to Tower Junction, a vital hub in Yellowstone National Park, offering a range of amenities, including cabins, a campground, a ranger station, and a large general store. The general store features a snack bar. We looked around the general store and bought a national park magnet.
The name “Tower Fall” derives from the tall, columnar basalt pinnacles surrounding the falls. These towering rock formations resembling natural towers were created when the lava cooled and fractured into vertical columns.
We then walked the short, paved trail near the General Store to a series of overlooks providing spectacular views of Tower Fall, one of Yellowstone’s most photographed waterfalls. Tower Fall cascades dramatically 132 feet over a sheer cliff, its rushing water creating a continuous mist and roaring sound that echoes through the area.
Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
We began exploring the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone by parking near the Brink of the Upper Falls and hiking the 3.8-mile North Rim Trail. This iconic canyon stretches 24 miles, with depths of 800 to 1,200 feet and widths of 1,500 to 4,000 feet, showcasing breathtaking views and dramatic landscapes.
The Yellowstone River carved the canyon over thousands of years through layers of volcanic rock left by ancient eruptions. Its striking walls, colored in hues of yellow, red, and pink, owe their vibrant appearance to hydrothermal alteration, where hot water chemically altered the rock’s minerals.
Our first stop was the Upper Falls, where the river plunges 109 feet, roaring through the gorge and surrounded by lush pine forests. Further along, the trail revealed stunning views of the Lower Falls, which cascade 308 feet, nearly twice the height of Niagara Falls.
Viewpoints like Lookout Point and Inspiration Point along the North Rim Trail provided different perspectives of the canyon’s depth and beauty.
Hayden Valley
We continued down the Grand Loop into Hayden Valley when we left Yellowstone Falls. Hayden Valley is a stunning and expansive subalpine valley. This broad, sweeping valley sits atop the remnants of an ancient lake bed formed by glacial activity thousands of years ago. The flat, open terrain of the valley is covered in grasses and sagebrush, creating an ideal habitat for a diverse range of wildlife. The valley is particularly famous for its large herds of bison.
The Yellowstone River winds lazily through Hayden Valley, its waters providing a lifeline for the ecosystem. Wetlands flank the meandering river. Occasional steam vents and mud pots dot the landscape, reminding visitors of the volcanic forces that shaped the region. Pullouts along the road offer excellent vantage points for spotting wildlife and taking in the panoramic views of the valley’s rolling terrain and the Yellowstone River winding through its heart.
We found several herds of bison that we enjoyed watching from various viewpoints along the road.
Sulfur Cauldron
We then stopped at the Sulfur Cauldron, known for its thick, bubbling, acidic mud and strong smell of rotten eggs. This mud pot’s activity is driven by hydrogen sulfide gas escaping from deep within the earth, which reacts with water and oxygen to produce sulfuric acid. The cauldron’s waters are highly acidic, comparable to battery acid, and constantly churn and steam due to the gas release.
The surrounding area is stained with vibrant yellows, oranges, and greens from sulfur deposits and mineral interactions, contrasting with the barren landscape. We saw a bison slowly wander across the field, seemingly unbothered by the environment.
Yellowstone Lake
We stopped along the western shore of Yellowstone Lake, the largest body of water in Yellowstone National Park, and took some time to explore the rocky beach. At an elevation of 7,733 feet, Yellowstone Lake is one of the largest high-elevation lakes in North America, covering approximately 136 square miles. Its expansive shoreline stretches for about 141 miles, offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and forests.
As we walked along the shore, the lake’s vastness was striking, with the peaks of the Absaroka Range in the distance. The shoreline alternated between sandy patches and areas scattered with smooth stones, driftwood, and pumice stones, reminders of the lake’s volcanic origins. The water was crystal clear and icy cold.
Yellowstone Lake sits atop a geothermal hotbed, with underwater geysers, fumaroles, and hot springs bubbling beneath its surface. Steam could be seen rising at several places along the shoreline in the distance.
Kepler Cascades
Our next stop was the Kepler Cascades, a stunning waterfall located just a few miles south of Old Faithful along the Firehole River. Tucked within a forested canyon, the cascades drop approximately 150 feet in a series of dramatic plunges over multiple tiers of dark volcanic rock. The tallest single drop is about 50 feet, but the cumulative effect of the cascading water, framed by towering lodgepole pines, creates a breathtaking and serene scene.
We reached the overlook via a short boardwalk trail from the parking area and enjoyed the view of the cascading water churning into a frothy white as it tumbled over the rugged rocks.
Old Faithful
We next stopped at the Upper Geyser Basin to see Old Faithful. The area was crowded, and it took some time to find a parking spot. Once parked, we headed to the General Store, browsing through the souvenirs before treating ourselves to some ice cream.
From there, we went to the Old Faithful viewing area to find a good spot in the amphitheater. Unfortunately, we missed the last eruption by about 10 minutes, leaving us nearly an hour to wait for the next one. We later realized we could have checked the approximate eruption time at the visitor center or even online.
Old Faithful is neither the largest nor the longest-lasting geyser in Yellowstone National Park, but it is the most famous due to its relative predictability and frequent eruptions. It remains iconic for its frequent and somewhat predictable eruptions, occurring approximately every 90 minutes, making it one of the most accessible and reliable geysers for visitors to view.
While waiting, we enjoyed the warm sunshine and the picturesque view of the geyser basin. As the next eruption approached, the amphitheater began filling up, with most people arriving about 10 minutes beforehand.
The eruption began with little spurts that grew increasingly larger and longer for about 10 minutes. Each time it spurted, we got excited because we thought the geyser was erupting. This happened about a dozen times before the main eruption finally occurred.
Since it was getting late, we decided not to walk around the basin after the eruption.
Gibbon Falls
As we headed back toward our campground, we stopped at the outlook for Gibbon Falls. These falls are located along the Gibbon River between Madison and Norris Junctions. The falls descend gracefully over a broad, sloping cliff face, dropping approximately 84 feet. The waterfall flows over an ancient remnant of the Yellowstone Caldera’s rim, formed by a massive volcanic eruption roughly 631,000 years ago, which shaped much of the park’s current topography.
We were able to enjoy the falls from two primary viewpoints. The upper viewpoint was closest to the parking lot and provided the closest views of the falls, but a short walk to the lower viewpoint provided better views of the face of the falls and was generally less crowded.
Wildlife
Throughout the day, we encountered a variety of wildlife, undoubtedly one of Yellwstone’s greatest treasures. One memorable sight was a lone bison ambling down the road, its massive frame commanding attention as it moved with slow, deliberate steps. At other times, we spotted elk grazing peacefully along the roadside, particularly in the lush, open areas near Mammoth Hot Springs. They were magnificent as they moved through the grass, their antlers occasionally visible above the vegetation.
We were also fortunate to glimpse pronghorns in the distance, their distinctive white markings and incredible speed making them stand out on the plains. Mule deer made a quieter appearance, their large ears twitching as they foraged near the forest edges, blending seamlessly into the surroundings.
Yellowstone’s wildlife offered moments of awe and wonder at every turn. Whether it’s the solitary bison commanding the road, the graceful elk grazing in their natural habitat, or the fleeting sight of a pronghorn dashing across the plains, each encounter was a reminder of the park’s vital role as a sanctuary for these magnificent creatures.
Sunday, 15 Sept
Gardiner to Northeast Entrance
Today, we drove out the Northeast Entrance to the Beartooth Highway.
We drove through the north entrance and directly drove to the northeast entrance. It was 5 miles from the north entrance to Mammoth Hot Springs, 18 miles to Tower Junction, and 29 miles to the northeast entrance.
After the steep ascent from Gardiner to Mammoth Hot Springs, we turn west toward Tower Junction. 1.5 miles from Mammoth Hot Springs, we cross one of the largest bridges in the park over the Gardner River. This steel-arch bridge is 410 feet, including two approaches, and sits 70 feet above the river. Interestingly, it sits at the 45th parallel of latitude, halfway between the North Pole and the equator. After crossing the bridge, we continued to Tower Junction through dense forests and open meadows.
We saw lone bison and herds of bison during our drive to the northeast entrance. At one point between Mammoth Hot Springs and Tower Junction, a huge bison herd came down the road, stopping traffic. I was worried that they might hit my truck as some bison butted other bison when they felt crowded.
The road from Tower Junction crossed the Yellowstone River and descended into the expansive Lamar River Valley, characterized by wide-open grasslands surrounded by rolling hills and distant mountain ranges. The Lamar Valley is renowned for its abundant wildlife, including bison, elk, and wolves, but all we saw were herds of bison.
As we left the Lamar River Valley, we headed northeast and followed the Soda Butte Creek through meadows and forested areas. We entered a more mountainous region with steeper inclines and dense forests as we approached the park’s boundary.
We entered Montana as we arrived at the Northeast Entrance.
Cooke City Visitor Center and Museum
The small communities of Silver Gate, MT (19 people) and Cooke City, MT (80 people) are just outside the entrance. We stopped at the Visitor Center and Museum in Cooke City, which was very nice. It had many excellent displays about Cooke City, its history, and the surrounding area. There were lots of interactive displays and some outdoor exhibits. The artifacts were nothing special, but the photos and accompanying texts were interesting. It was also a great place to find a clean bathroom before we drove into the wilderness of the Beartooth Highway.
Beartooth Scenic Byway
The Beartooth All-American Road is a 68-mile-long seasonal road that passes through what is known today as the Beartooth Corridor. Surrounded by the Custer, Gallatin, and Shoshone National Forests, traveling parallel to the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, and abutting Yellowstone National Park, the Highway sits in a million-plus acre wilderness. Visitors can experience and explore pristine, untouched alpine and mountain landscapes, lush forests, and alpine tundra in a few miles. It is among the highest and most rugged areas in the lower 48 states, with 20 peaks reaching over 12,000 feet. In the surrounding mountains, glaciers are found on the north flank of nearly every mountain peak over 11,500 feet high. The road is the highest-elevation highway in Wyoming (10,947 feet) and Montana (10,350 feet), and it is the highest-elevation highway in the Northern Rockies.
Cooke City to Lake Creek
As we left Cooke City, situated at an elevation of 7,580 feet, we began a steady ascent into the rugged, high-altitude terrain of the Beartooth Mountains. The road wound its way upward, climbing to nearly 9,000 feet, offering increasingly expansive views of the surrounding wilderness. Dense evergreen forests blanketed the lower slopes, gradually giving way to alpine meadows dotted with wildflowers as we gained elevation.
We skirted the dramatic north faces of Pilot Peak, rising to an impressive 11,699 feet, and Index Peak, which stands at 10,709 feet. These iconic peaks, with their jagged, towering profiles, dominate the skyline and are easily recognizable landmarks of the region. Their striking forms, shaped by ancient volcanic activity and glacial erosion, seemed to watch over the landscape like silent sentinels. The peaks’ rugged beauty stood in stark contrast to the lush valley below, creating a scene of breathtaking natural grandeur.
Descending slightly, we crossed back into Wyoming and followed the winding path of the Clark’s Fork River Valley. The river, a designated Wild and Scenic River, carved its way through the landscape, its clear waters rushing over rocks.
Lake Creek Waterfall
We initially passed these falls and had to turn around, as there was no turnout or sign for them. There were some wide dirt shoulders where we were able to park though.
A short 200-yard trail took us to a fenced-in area with a gate. Inside the area was an old concrete bridge that was part of the Beartooth Highway. It was built around 1932 and bypassed in 1974 when the new bridge was built. It is one of five original bridges left on the Beartooth Highway.
Standing on the original bridge, we saw the waterfall cascade down a rocky gorge, pass under the bridge, and continue bouncing down the hill.
Unnamed Overlook
A mile from the falls we stopped at an unnamed scenic outlook with some interpretive signs and a view of the Lake Creek Valley below.
Yellowstone Overlook
This overlook, also called “Pilot and Index Peaks Overlook,” provides good views of the Pilot and Index Peaks, Clark’s Fork River Valley, and the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness Area.
Beartooth Ravine Bridge, Ravine & Falls
We stopped at the scenic turnout for the Beartooth Ravine Bridge and Beartooth Falls.
The Beartooth Ravine Bridge, completed in 2022, is a modern engineering marvel designed to span the rugged terrain of the ravine while prioritizing ecological preservation. Its innovative construction includes a safe wildlife underpass, enabling animals to cross beneath the bridge without endangering themselves or travelers.
Just beyond the bridge lies Beartooth Falls, a captivating cascade formed where Beartooth Creek spills from the outlet of Beartooth Lake. Surrounded by towering evergreens and jagged rock formations, the falls plunge approximately 100 feet, their waters tumbling with force as the creek begins its rapid descent toward the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River.
Top of the World Store and Motel
Next, we stopped at the Top of the World Store and Motel, a charming destination perched at an elevation of 9,400 feet. Nestled amidst the breathtaking scenery of the Beartooth Plateau, this high-altitude establishment serves as a convenient stop for travelers, offering refreshments, snacks, and a variety of souvenirs to commemorate the journey.
The store also provides essential services such as food, fuel, lodging, and, most importantly, restrooms, making it a useful waypoint along the remote Beartooth Highway.
Originally built in 1934 on the shores of nearby Beartooth Lake, the store was relocated to its current site in the 1960s, where it continues to operate under a special use permit from the Shoshone National Forest. The rustic charm of the building, combined with its rich history and spectacular surroundings, makes it a popular stop.
We enjoyed walking around the store and seeing the humorous souvenirs and t-shirts, many using the slogan “Get Your Ass Over The Pass.”
Little Bear Lake & Long Lake
As we continued our drive through the stunning Beartooth Plateau, we passed by Little Bear Lake, its crystal-clear waters shimmering against a backdrop of rugged peaks and alpine meadows. Shortly afterward, we stopped at an overlook for Long Lake, one of the many breathtaking alpine lakes that dot the area at an elevation of 8,900 feet.
Beartooth Pass Summit
As we climbed higher toward the summit of Beartooth Pass, the road wound through a series of dramatic switchbacks, offering breathtaking views of jagged peaks and shimmering alpine lakes scattered across the rugged terrain. The landscape transitioned into a stunning high-altitude wilderness, with patches of snow clinging to the ground even in the height of summer.
The summit of Beartooth Pass, at an elevation of 10,947 feet, is the highest point along the Beartooth Highway and a highlight of the journey. We ventured down a short, rough, and rutted road to the Beartooth Pass Overlook, where the sweeping vistas were nothing short of spectacular. From this vantage point, we could see distant mountain ranges, glacial valleys, and an expanse of wild beauty that seemed to stretch endlessly. Lingering snow provided an unexpected playground, and we couldn’t resist stopping to throw a few snowballs. We also took a memorable photo at the iconic summit sign, marking our time at this incredible elevation.
Beyond the summit, the road began its descent in another series of sharp switchbacks, each turn revealing new perspectives of the rugged plateau below. This high-altitude landscape was dotted with countless alpine lakes and rocky outcroppings, creating a stunning backdrop as we continued our journey down the Beartooth Highway.
Beartooth Pass to Rock Creek Vista
As we crossed from Wyoming back into Montana, the landscape shifted subtly yet retained its breathtaking alpine character. The towering peaks gave way to expansive views of glacially carved valleys, rugged ridges, and a cascade of shimmering alpine lakes dotting the terrain below. The road hugged the contours of the mountains, offering panoramic vistas at nearly every turn.
Rock Creek Vista
We stopped at Rock Creek Vista Point, one of the most iconic and accessible stops along the Beartooth Highway. Located at an elevation of 9,190 feet, this scenic overlook offers breathtaking views of Rock Creek Canyon, a deep, V-shaped gorge carved by glacial activity and erosion over millennia. From this vantage point, you can see the rugged peaks of the Beartooth Mountains towering in the distance, with their rocky slopes and lingering patches of snow providing a stark contrast to the dense pine forests below. The canyon’s steep walls descend dramatically into the valley, where Rock Creek flows like a silver thread, winding its way through the landscape.
The site is well-equipped with amenities, including paved parking, restrooms, and interpretive signs that share the geological history of the area. The signs explain how glacial forces shaped the canyon, the diversity of plant and animal life found in this unique ecosystem, and the challenges of constructing the Beartooth Highway through such a remote and rugged environment.
A short, paved walking path leads to multiple viewpoints, each offering a slightly different perspective of the canyon and surrounding wilderness. We could see for miles, with the vibrant blue sky contrasting against the dark green forests and the rugged gray and brown cliffs of the canyon.
From the vista, the road continued its descent through a series of hairpin turns as we descended from 9,190 feet to under 7,000 feet at the Rock Creek Valley below. As we dropped in elevation, the air grew warmer, and the dense alpine environment transitioned into subalpine forests. Eventually, the rugged mountain scenery softened, leading us toward the charming mountain town of Red Lodge, Montana.
Red Lodge, MT to Cody, WY
From Red Lodge, MT, we refueled and began our journey westward along WY-308, tracing a route steeped in history and natural beauty.
Though we didn’t stop, our route passed near the historic ghost town of South Pass City, a notable gold mining settlement active from the 1860s to the late 1870s. While desolate today, South Pass City is significant in the history of women’s suffrage. In 1869, during Wyoming’s first territorial legislative session, saloonkeeper William Bright introduced the groundbreaking bill granting women the right to vote, making Wyoming the first government in the world to extend this right to women. Esther Hobart Morris, a South Pass City resident, later became the first woman appointed to public office in the U.S. when she succeeded James Stillman as justice of the peace in 1870. This pioneering spirit of equality has cemented South Pass City’s place in history.
Our drive followed the meandering waters of Bear Creek. Soon, we reached the small agricultural town of Belfry, where we turned onto WY-72 South toward Cody.
As we continued, the landscape transformed into rolling grasslands punctuated by the dramatic vistas of Clark’s Fork Canyon. The rugged terrain comes alive here with towering limestone cliffs and verdant valleys. The canyon, carved by the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River, starkly contrasts the gentle plains we had passed earlier.
As we approached Cody, the road hugged the base of the majestic Beartooth Mountains, their snow-capped peaks looming over the horizon, with Heart Mountain dominating the skyline. During World War II, the area near Heart Mountain housed a Japanese-American internment camp.
Cody to East Entrance
Cody, Wyoming, is a lively tourist destination that offers a distinctive blend of Wild West history and outdoor adventure. Founded by the legendary showman William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, the town continues embracing its Western heritage, evident in the numerous Western sculptures adorning its streets. Driving through Cody, we also noticed street art featuring bears, adding a whimsical and natural touch to the urban landscape. Each bear was uniquely painted, showcasing designs ranging from colorful patterns and abstract art to natural, wildlife-inspired themes. We really enjoyed one outside a chiropractor’s office.
From Cody, we headed west, passing through the heart of the city before reaching the Cody Mountain Tunnels, a series of short, rock-hewn tunnels. Emerging from the tunnels, we came upon the impressive Buffalo Bill Dam and Reservoir, one of the earliest and most ambitious examples of large-scale dam engineering in the United States. Completed in 1910, the dam once held the title of the tallest in the world at 325 feet. The expansive reservoir created by the dam stretches out in shimmering blues and greens, providing water and recreation opportunities for the region.
Continuing west, we entered the Wapiti Valley, often called one of the most scenic drives in Wyoming. The valley is framed by striking cliffs and pinnacles and dotted with stands of cottonwoods and willows along the North Fork of the Shoshone River.
The valley transitions into the Shoshone National Forest, a sprawling and rugged wilderness of nearly 2.4 million acres. As the nation’s first national forest, established in 1891, the Shoshone boasts a diverse ecosystem ranging from sagebrush plains to alpine meadows. Towering rock formations known as “hoodoos”—spindly spires shaped by wind and water erosion—line the road, their unique shapes adding to the surreal beauty of the landscape.
The drive is lined with historic lodges and cabins, many dating back to the early 20th century when this area was developed as a gateway to Yellowstone. One such landmark is the Pahaska Tepee, a rustic lodge built by Buffalo Bill himself as a hunting retreat in the early 1900s. The name “Pahaska” translates to “long hair” in the Lakota language, a nod to Cody’s famous nickname.
The road climbed gently as we neared the East Entrance of Yellowstone National Park.
East Entrance to Gardiner
From the East Entrance of Yellowstone, we began our journey westward on East Entrance Road, navigating through the beautiful and rugged terrain of Sylvan Pass. The road winds through forested areas and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountain landscape. As we ascended to the pass, we were treated to sweeping vistas of the pristine wilderness of Yellowstone Lake below.
After crossing Sylvan Pass, we descended toward Yellowstone Lake, one of the largest high-elevation lakes in North America, known for its striking blue waters and scenic surroundings. At West Thumb, we connected to the Grand Loop Road, continuing our journey north. The road along the lake is dotted with geothermal features.
We turned west at Canyon Village, taking Norris Canyon Road. This section of the road passes through dense forests and open meadows, with occasional glimpses of the Yellowstone River cutting through the landscape. As we drove, we encountered some construction, which slowed our progress.
At Norris Junction, we turned north onto the Grand Loop Road again, heading toward the park’s North Entrance and then to Gardiner. We reached our camper around 7:30 pm.