June 25, 2019
Twin Creek RV Resort
The trip to Gatlinburg was smooth and uneventful, as most of it was along the interstate. However, the scenery on the way started to change as we approached the Smoky Mountains, with lush greenery and rolling hills coming into view. When we arrived at Twin Creek RV Resort, we checked in and were assigned a site near a picturesque creek. At first, the sound of running water seemed like it would provide a tranquil backdrop for our stay, but with rain in the forecast, I couldn’t shake a slight feeling of unease. Creeks can rise quickly, and I wasn’t sure how the terrain would handle heavy rainfall.
To make matters worse, the humid air brought out a swarm of gnats. They buzzed incessantly, making it nearly impossible to enjoy the outdoor space around our site. Still, the park itself was well-maintained, with clean facilities and friendly staff.
While checking in, I noticed a framed photo of a young soldier on the wall behind the counter. The elderly woman working there saw my veteran’s ball cap and asked if I had served. When I said yes, her expression softened, and she began to share her story.
The soldier in the photo was her son, who had been killed in Afghanistan by an IED. She spoke with a mix of pride and sorrow, describing how her son had earned a scholarship to Harvard but chose to join the military to pay his own way. She told me about the Army’s efforts to honor her son during the funeral and how they supported her family in the aftermath. Tragically, her husband had passed away from a stroke a few years later, which she believed was brought on by grief.
Though her sadness was still palpable, she told me that talking about her son helped her cope. I felt humbled and grateful as I listened. Her story was a poignant reminder of the sacrifices made by military families and the blessings of the life we’re able to enjoy because of them.
Disaster!
After settling into our site, we decided to have a simple lunch of hummus, bread, and beer before heading out to explore the Smoky Mountains National Park. We set up at the picnic table outside, enjoying the fresh air despite the persistent gnats.
As this was a full hookup site, I connected the black water flush hose but left the water turned off, intending to use it later. While we were eating, Lisa suddenly noticed water seeping out from under the bedroom door. Alarmed, we ran into the trailer and were greeted by a horrifying sight: water was pouring out of the toilet, flooding the bedroom and bathroom floors.
Panic set in as Lisa shouted that the water was still flowing. I sprinted to the back of the trailer to shut off the water connection. When I checked the black water flush hose, I realized my mistake—I had accidentally left it on, and the tank had overflowed.
The cleanup was a nightmare. Though the black tank was mostly empty, the water was still foul. Lisa immediately tackled the mess inside, mopping up water and sanitizing surfaces, while I focused on rinsing rugs and other soaked items outside. It was a grueling process, and I worried about water seeping into places we couldn’t reach, potentially causing long-term damage. Lisa did an incredible job, but the entire ordeal left us both exhausted and frustrated.
Cataract Falls
After laying everything out to dry and regaining some composure, we decided to salvage the day by heading to the Smoky Mountains National Park. The drive took us through downtown Gatlinburg, which was a madhouse. Bumper-to-bumper traffic crawled along streets packed with pedestrians weaving in and out. Bright neon signs and souvenir shops lined the main strip, creating an overwhelming sensory experience.
Thankfully, Google Maps directed us onto a quieter bypass, allowing us to avoid some of the chaos. However, the park entrance was no reprieve—traffic there was just as congested. At the Sugarlands Visitor Center, we were fortunate to find a parking spot amidst the throng of vehicles.
Inside the visitor center, we stamped our National Park passport book, and Lisa picked up a few postcards. The museum featured exhibits showcasing the park’s wildlife and ecosystems, but we were eager to stretch our legs and explore. We chose a short trail along Sugarlands Creek that led to Cataract Falls.
The trail was shaded and peaceful, with the sound of rushing water providing a calming backdrop. The falls themselves weren’t large but were still lovely, with water cascading over moss-covered rocks.
Clingman’s Dome
From there, we set out for Clingman’s Dome, the highest peak in the Smoky Mountains. The drive up was both beautiful and nerve-wracking. The road twisted and turned with steep drop-offs, and we passed through tunnels and hairpin curves that made Lisa uneasy.
When we reached the parking lot, the views were already breathtaking. We were literally above the clouds, looking down at the Smoky Mountains stretching out like a green ocean below.
The trail to the observation deck was a steep half-mile climb—not the gradual, spiraling path I had imagined from photos. Despite her aching knees, Lisa pushed through, determined to reach the top. The observation deck offered 360-degree views that were absolutely stunning. Clouds floated just below us, adding an ethereal quality to the landscape. Lisa rested on a bench, taking it all in, while I wandered around the platform, soaking up the panoramic beauty.
The platform was crowded, with visitors jostling for selfies and group photos. While the views were incredible, the crowd made it hard to linger. We soon began our descent back to the parking lot, where the fading daylight cast a golden glow over the mountains.
Drive Back to Campsite
Halfway down the mountain, I noticed the low-fuel light on the dashboard. I had forgotten to fill up before entering the park, and now the “miles to empty” counter was ticking down faster than we were traveling. Lisa grew increasingly anxious, but I reassured her we had enough to make it back to Gatlinburg.
Along the way, we spotted an elk grazing near the road, surrounded by a cluster of onlookers. Some people were standing dangerously close to the animal, which struck us as both foolish and reckless. I slowed down long enough for Lisa to snap a picture before continuing.
When we finally reached Gatlinburg, I pulled into the first gas station with just half a gallon to spare. It was the most expensive station in town, but I used a 40-cents-per-gallon discount through their app to ease the pain.
Before heading back to the RV, we made a quick stop at the park’s welcome sign to grab a photo.
Evening
Back at the campsite, Lisa prepared a delicious dinner of cast-iron chicken, couscous, and carrots.
June 26, 2019 – Dollywood
A Day at Dollywood
Today, we decided to visit Dollywood since the forecast promised one of the few rain-free days of our trip. Though the park is notoriously expensive, we were grateful for the veteran discount, which softened the blow. Dollywood opened at 10 a.m., and we aimed to beat the crowds by arriving early. We pulled into the B-for-Butterfly lot about 30 minutes before the opening, scored a decent parking spot, and managed to pick up our tickets and enter the park before the gates officially opened.
Dollywood has its roots in the old Silver Dollar City park, and its layout and charm reminded us of the amusement park in Branson, Missouri. The rustic, family-friendly vibe felt familiar and welcoming.
Kingdom Heirs and Gem Tones
We started the day with a show by the Kingdom Heirs, an award-winning gospel quartet performed at Dollywood for 34 years. Their performance was phenomenal. There’s something profoundly moving about gospel music—it resonates in a hard way to put into words, stirring emotions and sending chills down your spine. I especially loved the bass singer’s deep, resonant notes, which always gave me goosebumps.
After the gospel performance, we wandered to a small outdoor stage to watch the Gem Tones, a quintet dressed in 1950s-style costumes. Their short but lively show featured doo-wop hits with synchronized dance moves and plenty of nostalgia. By now, the sun was blazing, but the heat, while intense, felt invigorating. Thankfully, we had been smart enough to apply sunscreen as soon as we entered the park, so we were prepared for the day ahead.
Birds of Prey and Acapella Performances
We passed a street performance by an acapella group whose harmonies were delightful. From there, we went to the Wings of America show, part of the American Eagle Foundation’s bird rescue program. The foundation focuses on rehabilitating birds of prey, especially eagles, and their efforts were fully displayed here.
The show featured a variety of raptors, including hawks, owls, vultures, and majestic bald eagles. The handlers demonstrated the birds’ natural behaviors, allowing them to soar low over the audience’s heads. Feeling the rush of air from their wings was thrilling. For the grand finale, a clever crow hopped around the stage, collecting dollar bills from the audience and depositing them into a donation box. It was both entertaining and heartwarming.
Jada Star and Dolly’s Tour Bus
Next, we headed to “The Songbook,” a show by Jada Star, one of Dolly Parton’s nieces, and her partner, Barry. Both had been in the music industry for years, writing and performing songs, but had recently joined forces to release an album together. While the show was enjoyable, it wasn’t quite as captivating as some of the others. Lisa, however, was thoroughly entertained by Barry’s tight jeans, which seemed to be a highlight for her! Their voices blended beautifully during duets, but Jada’s solo performances were undoubtedly the stronger moments.
Afterward, we toured Dolly’s tour bus, marveling at the cozy yet luxurious space where she spent so much of her career on the road. We were hungry by this point, so we returned to the truck for lunch. Along the way, we stopped at the Grist Mill to pick up some of Dollywood’s famous cinnamon bread, which lived up to the hype and made our meal feel special.
Dolly’s Legacy
We visited the Dolly Parton Museum in the park, a treasure trove of memorabilia chronicling her extraordinary life. From her humble beginnings in a three-room cabin shared with 11 siblings to her rise as a global icon, the exhibits were inspiring. The museum also highlighted her philanthropic efforts, including her Imagination Library, which provides free books to children, and her generous support for wildfire victims in the region. It was a testament to her genuine love for her community and her drive to give back.
Evening Shows and the Train Ride
In the afternoon, we attended “My People, My Music,” a variety show featuring Dolly’s relatives and other talented performers. Through clever stage design, Dolly appeared as a projection on a screen, interacting with the live performers as they sang and danced. It was an engaging blend of live and virtual elements, and the show was polished and fun.
Our final day show was “Summer Feels,” a high-energy performance featuring singers and dancers showcasing popular songs. The choreography and production quality were impressive, and it was a lively way to wrap up the entertainment portion of our visit.
Before leaving, we hopped on Dollywood’s coal-fired steam train for a ride around the park. The authentic locomotive belched cinders as it chugged along, giving us a glimpse of the Smoky Mountains from a different perspective. Though the cinders occasionally landed on passengers, it added to the charm of the experience.
Wildwood Grove and Heading Home
We ended our day in Wildwood Grove, the park’s newest section, designed with young children in mind. Its centerpiece, a giant artificial tree adorned with butterflies, looked enchanting, though we imagined it would be even more magical when lit at night.
By 7 p.m., we decided to call it a day. Tempted by the smell of park food, it was hard to justify spending $10 on a hot dog, so we returned to the camper. Lisa heated some leftover lasagna, and we spent the rest of the evening relaxing and watching Netflix, reflecting on a fun-filled but exhausting day.
June 27, 2019 – Great Smokey Mountains National Park
Today we were going to spend the day at the Great Smokey Mountains National Park and headed toward Cade’s Cove.
Laurel Falls
Our first stop was the trail to Laurel Falls, a stunning waterfall tucked into the park’s dense forest. The hike up was steep, but Lisa powered through like a champ. The trail was bustling with other visitors, but the view was worth it when we reached the falls. Despite the crowd, we captured some photos before heading back down the trail.
We spotted a delightful surprise as we returned: a group of black bears playing in a clearing about 300 yards away. Watching them interact in their natural habitat was mesmerizing—definitely a highlight of the day.
Elkmont
Next, we visited Elkmont, a former resort community abandoned after the National Park Service acquired the land. The remaining structures are preserved thanks to a historical designation, but time has not been kind to many of them. Most were in disrepair due to rot and vandalism, though a few buildings were stable enough to explore.
We wandered through the eerie, empty streets and peered into old cabins, imagining the lively summer retreats they must have once hosted. Restoration efforts were underway, with crews working to repair some of the buildings. Elkmont’s haunting charm offered a poignant glimpse into a bygone era.
Metcalf Bottoms Trail
From Elkmont, we made our way to the Metcalf Bottoms picnic area, a lively spot along the river where we saw a flock of wild turkeys. We decided to hike the Metcalf Bottoms Trail, which leads to the historic 19th-century Little Greenbrier School.
The trail was peaceful but steep and slippery in parts. About a mile in, dark clouds began rolling in, and we decided to turn back rather than risk getting caught in the rain. Although we didn’t reach the schoolhouse, the hike was still an enjoyable way to experience the lush forest.
Cades Cove
By early afternoon, we finally reached Cade’s Cove, a picturesque valley surrounded by towering mountains. Known for its abundant wildlife and historical sites, this is one of the most popular areas in the park.
We drove the 11-mile one-way scenic loop that winds through the cove. As we entered, we were greeted by some bold turkeys begging for food, which made us laugh. A couple of miles in, Lisa’s keen eyes spotted a mother bear with two cubs. She managed to capture some incredible photos of the trio before they disappeared into the woods.
While we also spotted a few deer, other wildlife proved elusive. The route featured several restored cabins and historic farms, but due to time constraints, we didn’t stop to explore them. The drive itself, however, was a beautiful way to immerse ourselves in the natural beauty of the park.
The Sink
On our way back, rain began to fall, but we made one final stop at The Sinks, a popular swimming hole surrounded by rapids. Dozens of people were sliding down the rocks and leaping into the water, undeterred by the weather. The scene was lively and fun to watch, but we decided not to linger as the rain intensified.
After a long but rewarding day, we returned to camp, tired but grateful for all the incredible sights and experiences the Smokies had offered us.
June 28, 2019 – Great Smokey Mountains National Park
Roaring Fork Nature Motor Trail
Today, we explored the stunning Roaring Fork Nature Motor Trail, an 8-mile, one-way scenic drive just outside Gatlinburg. This route winds through a lush forest, following a babbling creek and offering an immersive experience of the Great Smoky Mountains’ natural beauty.
The trail is dotted with restored log cabins and old homesteads that harken back to the early settlers of the region. Each stop seemed like a portal to another time, offering a sense of how people once lived in this rugged wilderness. One of the highlights was a gorgeous waterfall visible from the road, which we paused to admire.
Though we kept an eye out for wildlife, we didn’t spot any animals during our drive. However, the tranquil surroundings and picturesque views more than made up for it. The mix of sunlight filtering through the trees and the soothing sound of the creek created an almost magical atmosphere.
Ely’s Mill
The motor trail ended at Ely’s Mill, a quaint historic site turned into a shop and bed-and-breakfast. The mill, built in the early 1900s, has been lovingly preserved and now houses a charming collection of local crafts, antiques, and unique souvenirs. We enjoyed browsing through the items and learning a bit more about the mill’s history.
Gatlinburg, TN
After the Roaring Fork drive, we headed into Gatlinburg with the intention of parking near the aquarium. Unfortunately, parking proved tricky. I found a parking structure but couldn’t determine if it was free, so we decided to head back to camp and use the trolley system instead.
The drive back took us up an incredibly steep road overlooking Gatlinburg, offering a breathtaking view of the city below. At the peak, we saw the Gatlinburg SkyBridge, a spectacular pedestrian suspension bridge spanning the mountains. Lisa was not keen on walking across it, though. Although parking in this area was restricted, the detour provided us with incredible photo opportunities before returning to camp.
Downtown Gatlinburg
Equipped with our backpacks and rain gear, we took the 50-cent trolley back into downtown Gatlinburg. The trolleys, while affordable, ran infrequently, but we made the most of the day once we arrived.
We indulged in tastings at several spots, including:
- Smoky Mountain Brewery and Gatlinburg Brewing Company, where we enjoyed some craft beer flights.
- Sugarlands Distilling Company, which offered a variety of moonshine flavors to sample.
- Two local wineries, Smoky Mountain Winery and Sugarland Cellars, where we experienced some delightful wine tastings.
While strolling downtown, we couldn’t resist taking pictures with the whimsical bear statues scattered around. We relaxed in rocking chairs at one of the shopping plazas and enjoyed live music at an outdoor concert.
We stopped at Howard’s Steakhouse, Gatlinburg’s oldest restaurant for dinner. The meal didn’t disappoint! We started with catfish bites as an appetizer and split a hearty Hot Steak Sandwich with a steak burger, mashed potatoes, and mushroom gravy.
Crafts, Mishaps, and Ice Cream
After dinner, we hopped on another trolley for a scenic ride through the Crafts and Arts District before returning to camp. On the ride, I realized my wallet had fallen out of my pocket, but thankfully, a fellow passenger found it, and the driver flagged us down to return it. What a relief!
We discovered another mishap at the truck: I hadn’t fully closed the sunroof, and the interior had gotten wet from the rain. We spent about 15 minutes drying it with paper towels at a gas station, but some water had seeped into areas we couldn’t reach.
Despite the hiccups, we ended the evening on a sweet note at Maddog’s Creamery & Donuts, a top-rated ice cream shop in Gatlinburg. Although parking was a challenge, we managed to find a spot at an abandoned building nearby. Lisa enjoyed a Salted Caramel waffle cone, and I had a Strawberry Shortcake waffle cone. While the ice cream wasn’t exceptional, the experience was fun and memorable.
Planning Ahead
Back at camp, we reviewed our travel plans for the next day, deciding which sights to prioritize. It had been a full day of exploration, tasting, and discovery, and we were eager to see what the next leg of our journey would bring.