July 8
The Journey from Calgary, AB to Banff, AB
The weather that day was beautiful, signaling the beginning of warmer summer days. The overnight low hovered in the high 50s, while the daytime high reached the mid-80s. Winds were light at 13 mph, with occasional gusts up to 23 mph, and there was no rain in the forecast—perfect conditions for a scenic drive into the mountains.
We departed the campground around 10:30 a.m., ready for our journey to Banff. There were two main routes: the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) or the more scenic AB-1A, also known as the Bow Valley Trail. Historically, AB-1A was the original road to Banff before 1972, and though it’s narrower, less maintained, and curvier than its modern counterpart, its reputation for unparalleled vistas convinced us to take the more scenic AB-1A.
When we reached Cochrane we stopped at the Walmart Supercenter in Cochrane to stock up on supplies. We knew that as we headed into more remote areas, access to larger stores would become limited, and we wanted to be well-prepared.
As we continued westward, the scenery began to change. Soon after crossing the bridge at Ghost Lake—a picturesque man-made glacial lake—the road narrowed and the surface became rougher as we traversed Reservation land. Speed limits fluctuated, with a 30-km stretch reducing speeds to 80 km/h (50 mph), though most of the route allowed 100 km/h (62 mph).
The transition from the rolling farmland and open prairies of Alberta to the foothills of the Canadian Rockies was stunning. Each mile brought us closer to the towering peaks ahead. The anticipation built as the iconic silhouettes of the Rockies grew larger on the horizon.
The Bow Valley Trail ended in the charming mountain town of Canmore. Here, we rejoined Highway 1 for the remaining drive into Banff.
Just past Canmore, we entered the East Gate of Banff National Park, Canada’s first national park, established in 1885. Spanning over 6,600 square kilometers, the park is a natural wonderland of majestic mountains, emerald lakes, dense forests, and alpine meadows. We breezed through the gate without stopping with our Annual National Park Pass displayed on our rearview mirror.
As we drove into the park, the scenery became increasingly dramatic, with jagged peaks towering above lush valleys. We reached our campground just after 3 p.m., eager to settle in and explore.
Tunnel Mountain Village 2
Our caravan was divided between the Tunnel Mountain Trailer Court and Tunnel Mountain Village 2 campgrounds. We were assigned Site A46 in Village 2, which offered water and electricity but no sewage hookups (a dump station was available nearby). Unfortunately, the campground’s shower facilities were not operational during our stay.
The campground consisted of several rows of paved roads, and campers were parked on both sides of each road nose-to-tail, with camper doors opening to grassy areas. Our site was near the beginning of the road, making it easy to park without worrying about tight maneuvering between campers. We were also on the last row, so we looked out on a large grassy field where elk congregated each night.
Tuesday, July 9
Drive to Lake Louise
Our day began with a charter bus picking us up at the campground around 9 a.m. for a guided trip to some of Banff’s most iconic landmarks. The first stop on our itinerary was the world-renowned Lake Louise, a short hour’s drive away.
Lake Louise
Nestled at an elevation of 5,600 feet, Lake Louise stretches 1.5 miles long and half a mile wide. Its striking turquoise waters, a result of light refracting off fine particles of glacial silt known as “rock flour,” are set against the breathtaking backdrop of Mount Victoria and its hanging glacier.
When we arrived, the area was buzzing with visitors. There was a well-maintained path along the lake’s edge, but time didn’t allow us to walk its entire length.
Moraine Lake
Next, we visited Moraine Lake, another glacier-fed jewel, located in the stunning Valley of the Ten Peaks. Situated at an elevation of 6,181 feet and spanning 120 acres, the lake’s turquoise hue is even more vibrant due to the rock flour deposited by nearby glaciers.
Because of limited parking, personal vehicles are not allowed on the road to Moraine Lake. Access is granted via Parks Canada shuttles, public transportation, or private tour buses like ours.
Upon arrival, I immediately embarked on the Rockpile Trail, a short but steep climb to the top of an 80-foot moraine. The panoramic view from the summit was breathtaking—a perfect vantage point to appreciate the lake’s surreal beauty framed by towering peaks. Lisa enjoyed views from the shoreline.
Lake Louise Ski Resort
Our next destination was the Lake Louise Ski Resort, where we were treated to a buffet lunch at the Lodge of Ten Peaks Café. Following the meal, we were given tickets for a summer gondola ride.
We could take an enclosed gondola or an open four-person chairlift. Given the pleasant weather, we opted for the chairlift. The 14-minute ascent carried us from 5,400 feet to 6,850 feet, gaining a total elevation of 1,450 feet. The ride up offered views of Whitehorn Mountain, its slopes dotted with snowpacks and streams from melting snow. Though reviews suggested possible wildlife sightings, ongoing construction may have kept animals at bay, and we didn’t spot any.
At the top, we followed a short walkway to a viewpoint featuring interpretive boards about local wildlife. Parks staff members showcased the pelts of an Arctic fox and a wolverine, allowing us to touch and learn more about these fascinating creatures. From the viewpoint, we enjoyed stunning views of Lake Louise across the valley. Unfortunately, the summit’s Whitehorn Bistro and Wildlife Interpretive Center were closed.
The descent on the chairlift had us facing into the valley and provided stunning vistas of the surrounding mountain landscapes.
Bow Falls
On our return to Banff, the bus stopped at the Bow Falls Viewpoint in Banff. These low-gradient falls tumble about 30 feet over a bedrock slope, producing a steady rumble that fills the air. While not the most dramatic waterfall, Bow Falls offers a peaceful and scenic spot to pause and appreciate the Bow River.
Across the street from the falls stands the Fairmont Banff Springs, also known as “The Castle of the Rockies.”
Hoodoo Viewpoint
After dinner at the camper, we decided to take an evening drive to Canmore for ice cream, stopping first at the Hoodoo Viewpoint, just a mile from our campground.
A short, easy trail led us through a forest of lodgepole and limber pines (the latter being an endangered species) to a hillside overlooking the Bow River Valley. Although the hoodoos—a series of tall, thin spires of eroded rock—were not particularly spectacular, the views of the valley framed by the majestic Mount Rundle were beautiful. While there, we also spotted rafters navigating the Bow River far below.
Canmore
We’d heard Canmore was a quieter, less crowded alternative to Banff, so we made it our evening destination. Upon arrival, we found a charming alpine-inspired downtown area, though most shops had already closed for the day.
We strolled the quaint streets, eventually stopping at the Grizzly Paw Brewing Company for a flight of local beers. Their cozy outdoor patio, complete with a gas fire pit, provided a perfect spot to unwind.
Eager for dessert, we searched for ice cream but found that most ice cream shops on Canmore’s main street were closed. Finally, near the city’s entrance, we discovered a mall with a shop called “Lovely,” where we indulged in some frozen treats.
Back at the Campground
When we returned to the campground, we were greeted by elk grazing peacefully near our camper.
Wednesday, July 10
Banff
The day greeted us with beautiful weather—overnight lows in the low 60s and daytime highs in the mid-80s. Winds were moderate, around 15 mph, with occasional gusts up to 25 mph.
We departed the campground at 8 a.m. for a scenic drive along the Bow Valley Parkway, the original route connecting Banff to Lake Louise. Before setting out, we made a quick stop at the Banff sign for a mandatory selfie, pleasantly surprised by the lack of lines.
Bow Valley Parkway
The Bow Valley Parkway is a picturesque 30-mile stretch that parallels CA-1. Unlike the faster and more direct Trans-Canada Highway, this narrow, curvy road winds through lush forests and offers plenty of opportunities for wildlife sightings. The parkway’s speed limit is a leisurely 60 km/h (37 mph), which encouraged us to take in the scenery. Along the way, we spotted a bull elk grazing, adding an element of excitement to our morning.
Johnston Canyon
Our primary destination for the morning was Johnston Canyon, a natural wonder carved by Johnston Creek. It is among the busiest trails in Banff, known for its dramatic waterfalls and narrow canyon walls.
After about 30 minutes on the Bow Valley Parkway, we arrived at the parking lot, relieved to find a spot in the overflow area. From there, we joined the trail, which begins as a paved path but transitions to catwalks that cling to the canyon walls, providing unique perspectives of the rushing creek below.
The first major sight was the Lower Falls, reached via a half-mile walk. We got up close to the falls by crawling through a small cave which was fun.
The trail to the Upper Falls grew steeper, but the effort was worth it. At nearly 100 feet tall, the Upper Falls were a breathtaking sight, viewable from both the base and an elevated platform. The trail continues two miles beyond the falls to a unique mineral springs area called the Ink Pots, but we chose to turn back.
Silverton Falls
While at Johnston Canyon, we talked with a couple who recommended visiting Silverton Falls, just a short drive away. Intrigued, we decided to check it out.
The Silverton Falls trailhead was less crowded, and only one other car was in the parking lot when we arrived. The trail, though unpaved, was clearly marked—initially. Unfortunately, we veered off the path and found ourselves lost in the dense forest. Attempts to navigate using Google Maps only added to our confusion, and following the creek didn’t help either. Although the detour offered some beautiful views, the experience was tinged with anxiety about encountering wildlife, especially bears.
Eventually, we returned to the car, where we met another couple returning from the falls. They reassured us the trail was worth another attempt, and this time, we carefully followed the correct route. After just over a mile, we were rewarded with a stunning view of the towering, three-tiered Silverton Falls cascading gracefully down the rocky slope.
Spiral Tunnels
Our next destination took us into Yoho National Park, just west of Banff, to see the Spiral Tunnels—an engineering marvel suggested by someone in our caravan.
The tunnels were constructed in the early 1900s to address the challenges posed by the steep grades of the Kicking Horse Pass, part of the Canadian Pacific Railway’s route. Inspired by Swiss railways, the tunnels spiral through the mountains, allowing trains to gain elevation gradually and safely.
We stopped at both viewpoints along the route but didn’t see any trains pass through during our visit. However, a detailed model at the Yoho National Park Visitor Center in Field illustrated how the system worked, providing a fascinating insight into this innovative solution.
Yoho Valley Road
From the tunnels, we embarked on the challenging Yoho Valley Road, an 8.5-mile stretch leading to the majestic Takkakaw Falls. The narrow, steep road is infamous for its sharp switchbacks, requiring vehicles longer than 21 feet to perform reverse maneuvers to navigate the tight turns.
Partway up the road, we stopped at the Meeting of the Waters, where the Yoho and Kicking Horse Rivers converge. The turquoise waters of the Yoho, mingling with the muddy brown currents of the Kicking Horse, created a striking visual contrast.
Takkakaw Falls
The name “Takkakaw” comes from the Cree language and means “magnificent,” a fitting description for these 1,260-foot falls, among Canada’s tallest. The sound of the falls greeted us as soon as we opened the car doors, and the roar grew louder as we approached.
It was a short walk across a bridge from the parking lot to the base of the falls. The closer we got, the heavier the mist, which was refreshing on the warm day. Takkakaw Falls’ unique feature is how the water jets outward from the cliff face, creating an almost horizontal projection that adds to its dramatic beauty.
Drive Back to the Camper
After soaking in the splendor of Takkakaw Falls, we drove back to the campground via the Trans-Canada Highway, reflecting on a day filled with awe-inspiring sights and unforgettable experiences.