Sunday, April 6
Journey from Jacksonville to Savannah
We left Jacksonville around 10 a.m. and traveled on I-95 toward Savannah. The traffic was light, and we reached our campground, which was just a short distance off the highway, in under two hours.
Spacious Skies Savannah Oaks
We were able to check in early, around noon, at Spacious Skies Savannah Oaks. The campground features 108 RV sites, nestled under the stunning Spanish moss-draped oak trees along the Ogeechee River. In addition to the beautiful natural surroundings, the campground offers a range of amenities, including a swimming pool, a boat ramp and dock for fishing, a new playground, a basketball court, and a camp store stocked with essentials. Conveniently located, it’s only 20 minutes from historic downtown Savannah, making it a perfect base for exploring the city.
We were assigned Site 57, a full hookup site with 30 amps. Although the gravel pad was a bit bumpy, we managed to find a level spot without needing to use levelers. Initially, we got a scare when our surge protector showed a fault after connecting, but thankfully, the issue cleared up after a moment. The oaks provided some scenery but not much shade, so we had to turn on the air conditioner to cool down the inside of the camper.
Once we had everything set up, we enjoyed a relaxing lunch before venturing out to explore.
Tybee Island
After lunch at the camper, we decided to drive to Tybee Island to visit the lighthouse and, if we had time, explore Fort Pulaski National Monument. We set Google to “avoid highways” and got a lovely view of Savannah’s charming streets and homes as we drove through the city, sparking our interest in exploring more of Savannah the following day.
We then joined the Island Expressway, an 18-mile route that took us through picturesque marshlands, tidal creeks, and estuaries. We passed notable spots like Lazaretto Creek and the Back River, all while enjoying the changing landscapes as we neared the island.
As we crossed onto Tybee, we were struck by the beauty of the coastal-style homes but also noticed the high volume of cars. A sign at the island’s entrance reminded us that all parking on the island is paid parking seven days a week.
Tybee Island Lighthouse
When we arrived at the lighthouse, we parked in the museum’s lot, which allowed us to stay for two hours with the price of admission. The Tybee Island Lighthouse is one of the most iconic and well-preserved lighthouses in the United States. Originally built in 1736, it has been rebuilt several times due to storms, erosion, and the Civil War, with the current structure dating to 1867. Standing at 145 feet, it’s the tallest and oldest lighthouse in Georgia. The lighthouse is a striking black-and-white tower with a traditional Fresnel lens still in operation today, guiding ships into the mouth of the Savannah River.
After paying admission, we eagerly headed to the lighthouse and began our climb up 178 steps. We both made it to the top and were rewarded with sweeping panoramic views of the island and the Atlantic Ocean. We then explored the other historic buildings on the lighthouse grounds, including the head keeper’s house, a summer kitchen, and various outbuildings.
Tybee Island Military Museum
Across from the lighthouse is the Tybee Island Military Museum, housed in the former Battery Garland. Established in 1961, the museum occupies a significant part of Fort Screven, a coastal defense fortification built in 1898. The battery was initially constructed to house a 12-inch long-range gun for coastal defense.
As we crossed the street to the museum, we realized much of the fort didn’t belong to the museum—it was privately owned, including a large section held by the Shriners. We accidentally walked into the wrong section, where a party was taking place, before we made our way to the proper entrance.
Inside Battery Garland, we explored various exhibits showcasing Tybee’s transformation through the centuries. Several rooms focused on Fort Screven’s active years, with displays of uniforms, weapons, photographs, and personal accounts from soldiers stationed there. The exhibits covered coastal defenses, World War I and II operations, and the daily life of military personnel on the island. Artifacts from shipwrecks, navigation tools, lighthouse equipment, and models of historic ships illustrated Tybee’s connection to the sea. The museum also featured displays on the island’s fishing, shrimping, and boating industries.
The museum traced the area’s earliest history, with displays of pottery shards, tools, and panels on indigenous cultures and the arrival of Spanish and English settlers. A dedicated section explored Tybee’s importance during the Civil War, with exhibits about the Union’s occupation of the island and the siege of nearby Fort Pulaski. Period weapons, maps, and personal letters from that era helped bring the history to life.
One of the more fascinating exhibits was Tybee’s transformation into a seaside resort town. Vintage postcards, bathing suits, photos of early 20th-century beachgoers, and memorabilia from hotels, dance halls, and rail travel all painted a picture of how the island became a vacation destination. There were also exhibits on Tybee’s unique coastal ecosystem, showcasing local shells, fossils, and wildlife.
We also climbed to the top of Battery Garland, where we were treated to panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the surrounding coastline—just as the military once had a strategic view from this vantage point.
After the museum, we walked to North Beach for a quick look and returned to the lighthouse to retrieve our truck.
Lazaretto
It was too late to explore Fort Pulaski, so we headed back but first stopped at the cute Welcome to Tybee Island sign at the island entrance. We also found historical markers overlooking Lazaretto Creek, a tidal creek where Lazaretto Station was established. This quarantine station was established in 1803 to prevent spreading diseases like yellow fever. Ships arriving at Savannah had to stop at the station for quarantine before entering the port.
We then returned to the campground, where we ate dinner and relaxed for the evening.
Monday, April 7
History of Savannah
Savannah, Georgia, has a rich and storied history that dates back nearly three centuries. Founded in 1733 by General James Oglethorpe, it was the first city established in the new colony of Georgia, which was intended as a buffer between the British colonies to the north and Spanish Florida to the south. The founding of Savannah was partly in response to the Spanish threat, as tensions between Britain and Spain over territorial claims in the Americas were high. The colony was strategically positioned to serve as a military outpost to protect the valuable port city of Charleston and other British interests from potential Spanish attacks.
Savannah was carefully planned from the start. Oglethorpe designed the city using a grid system with wide streets and a series of public squares—many of which still exist today—making it one of the earliest examples of urban planning in America. The city quickly developed into an important port and commercial center, exporting cotton, rice, and lumber.
During the American Revolution, Savannah was occupied by the British from 1778 to 1782. Later, in the Civil War, it played a key role due to its strategic port and railroads. In 1864, General William Tecumseh Sherman famously ended his “March to the Sea” in Savannah, offering the city as a “Christmas gift” to President Lincoln. Unlike many Southern cities, Savannah was spared from destruction, leaving much of its historic architecture intact.
Savannah was also an important center of African American history and culture. The city was a major hub for the slave trade, and after emancipation, it became home to thriving Black institutions such as the First African Baptist Church and Savannah State University (founded in 1890). Many sites in the city played a role in the Civil Rights Movement as well. In 1963, Martin Luther King Jr. delivered a sermon at the Second African Baptist Church in Savannah, Georgia, that included lines from what would later become his iconic “I Have a Dream” speech, a preview of the message he would deliver at the March on Washington.
In the 20th century, the city underwent preservation efforts led by groups like the Historic Savannah Foundation, ensuring the survival of its beautiful antebellum homes, cobblestone streets, and iconic squares. Today, Savannah is known for its charming historic district, rich culture, Southern hospitality, and vibrant arts and culinary scenes. It remains a beloved destination that blends the past and present in one of the most picturesque cities in the United States.
Old Town Trolley Tours Savannah
Although earlier forecasts had predicted rain throughout the day, this morning’s update showed it holding off until later in the afternoon, so we decided to take the Old Town Trolley Tour for a good overview of the city. We arrived downtown around 10 a.m. and took advantage of the free parking at the trolley station. At the ticket counter, we asked them to match the online pricing—which they did—and also picked up a discounted ticket for the Prohibition Museum.
Even though the trolley was hop-on hop-off, we chose to stay on for the entire loop to get our bearings before deciding where to explore further. The route gave us a great look at the city, from the waterfront and bustling commercial areas of the North Historic District to the stately homes and leafy expanses of Forsyth Park in the South Historic District. Our driver offered some interesting facts along the way, though he leaned a bit too hard on the humor. Still, we enjoyed seeing the charming old houses, pocket parks with their monuments, and the many restaurants and shops pointed out along the route.
We noticed SCAD signs everywhere and learned they belong to the Savannah College of Art and Design. The private university has nearly 70 beautifully restored historic buildings scattered throughout the city, blending seamlessly into the urban landscape.
We eventually hopped off the trolley near the Prohibition Museum to continue our exploration on foot.
Little Duck Diner
We started walking toward some of the popular diners the trolley driver had pointed out. On the way, we made a quick stop at Byrd’s Famous Cookies—self-proclaimed as famous for their tiny cookies—and enjoyed a few free samples. From there, we continued toward the restaurants, but the name Little Duck Diner caught our attention, and the shaded outdoor seating sealed the deal.
We ordered a couple of local beers, which came whimsically served with little plastic ducks floating on top—a fun touch. I went with a club sandwich while Lisa opted for the chicken fingers. It was a laid-back, satisfying lunch, made even better by the atmosphere: sitting outside, enjoying the shade, surrounded by the charm of the historic North District.
Prohibition Museum
After lunch, we headed over to The American Prohibition Museum, the first and only museum in the United States dedicated to the history of Prohibition. We found it incredibly fascinating as it took us through an immersive journey, revealing the cultural and political upheavals of the Prohibition era.
The museum featured an impressive array of displays that included historic artifacts, information boards, photographs, advertisements, and newspapers from the time. We were particularly captivated by the recreations and dioramas, which did an excellent job of illustrating the complexity surrounding this turbulent period. One of the most striking exhibits recreated a speakeasy, with hidden doors and vintage furniture that transported us back to the 1920s. We also saw restored Prohibition-era vehicles, moonshine stills, and bottles of illicit liquor, which added a tangible element to the history. The detailed dioramas depicted everything from the rise of the Temperance Movement to the secretive bootlegging operations that fueled the underground alcohol trade.
Costumed docents were stationed throughout the museum, providing additional context and answering any questions we had. They had a recreation of a speakeasy at the end, but we decided to skip that portion. We left feeling as though we had gained a much deeper appreciation for the Prohibition era and its lasting impact on the country.
North Historic District
From there, we walked toward the riverfront, stopping first at Savannah’s Candy Kitchen. We had fun browsing the colorful displays, especially the giant Rice Krispie treats on a stick and the glossy, candy-coated apples. I couldn’t resist trying a sample of their “famous” pralines—rich, sweet, and still warm.
We continued on to Franklin Square, where we paused at the Haitian Monument and learned about the Chasseurs, a group of Haitian soldiers who fought in the American Revolution. Nearby, we passed the First African Baptist Church, founded in 1773 and officially organized in 1788—recognized as the oldest continuously operating African American Baptist congregation in the country.
The riverfront was a fascinating blend of old and new. Streets paved with brick, cobblestones, and old ballast stones wound their way between restored warehouses. Weathered staircases and sloping roads led down into the historic port area. In contrast, modern fountains danced in front of buildings that now housed restaurants, boutiques, hotels, and bars. The Talmadge Memorial Bridge stretched across the Savannah River into South Carolina, while a massive container ship, guided by a tugboat, made its slow journey upriver.
We climbed the uneven stone streets back up into the city and headed for a nearby trolley stop. That’s when we spotted someone with a cone from Leopold’s Ice Cream. Our earlier trolley driver had insisted it was a must-try, so we walked the few blocks to the shop.
Leopold’s, established in 1919, is Savannah’s oldest ice cream parlor. They still make their ice cream in small batches, using secret family recipes passed down through generations. One of their signature flavors, Tutti Frutti, even inspired local songwriter Johnny Mercer to pen a song by the same name.
When we arrived, a line stretched halfway down the block. It took us about 40 minutes to get inside, but the wait was worth it. The interior retained its old-fashioned soda fountain charm, complete with black marble counters and vintage Art Nouveau light fixtures. Lisa chose the Caramel Swirl and Peanut Butter Crispy, while I went with Chocolate Chewies & Cream. The ice cream was rich, creamy, and absolutely worth the hype.
We returned to the trolley stop and hopped back on just as the rain began to fall. We enjoyed a little more history as the trolley continued on its route through the city before dropping us near our truck.
On the drive home, we skipped the highways and ended up in a traffic jam around Fort Stewart. By the time we made it back, the rain had grown heavier, and the news reported a tornado watch. The thought of tornadoes wasn’t exactly comforting, but the sound of the rain tapping the roof made for a peaceful end to a full and memorable day.
Tuesday, April 8
Bonaventure Cemetery
The morning temperature was a crisp 50 degrees, with the high expected to reach only the low 70s—perfect weather for exploring Bonaventure Cemetery. I had downloaded a self-guided audio tour from the Savannah Historical Society and was excited to try it out.
The cemetery sits on a bluff overlooking the Wilmington River and began as a private plantation in the mid-1700s. Colonel John Mullryne established Bonaventure Plantation just a few decades after Georgia’s founding in 1733. Although the original plantation house is long gone, a sense of deep-rooted history still lingers among the trees and winding paths. By the mid-1800s, the land had transitioned into a cemetery, and in 1907, the city of Savannah made it a public burial ground. Over the years, Bonaventure has gained a reputation not only for its natural beauty but also for its elaborate statuary, decorative ironwork, and historically significant graves.
As we followed the app through the cemetery’s shaded lanes, we felt as though we’d stepped into another time. Towering live oaks arched above us, their limbs draped in Spanish moss that danced gently in the breeze. Beneath them, azaleas bloomed in vivid shades of pink and purple, softening the aging stones with bursts of spring color. Weathered benches appeared between monuments, inviting us to pause and soak in the quiet beauty.
The cemetery seemed to tell Savannah’s story layer by layer—from its colonial origins to the Civil War and into the modern era. Standing there, gazing out over the same river that once brought traders and settlers into the colony, we could feel the weight of the past in the stillness. As we wandered the tree-lined avenues, we passed grand mausoleums and timeworn headstones marking the resting places of some of Savannah’s most notable citizens. We stopped at the grave of Johnny Mercer, the beloved songwriter of “Moon River,” and that of Conrad Aiken, the Pulitzer Prize–winning poet. One of the most poignant memorials was for Gracie Watson, a young girl immortalized in a hauntingly lifelike marble statue that continues to draw visitors more than a century after her death.
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit. The peaceful atmosphere, rich history, and beautiful landscape made Bonaventure Cemetery feel less like a place of sorrow and more like a quiet celebration of Savannah’s enduring spirit.
Fort Pulaski
After leaving Bonaventure Cemetery, we made our way east toward Fort Pulaski National Monument, located on Cockspur Island between Savannah and Tybee Island. The drive itself was beautiful, with coastal marshlands and tidal rivers with numerous boat houses stretching out on either side of the road.
Built in the early 1800s as part of the United States’ coastal defense system, Fort Pulaski was once considered a marvel of military engineering—deemed impenetrable at the time. Surrounded by a wide moat and constructed with over 25 million bricks, the massive structure was named after Revolutionary War hero Casimir Pulaski and designed to protect the vital port of Savannah. Ironically, the fort became obsolete almost as soon as it was tested in battle.
During the Civil War, Union forces used newly developed rifled cannons to bombard Fort Pulaski from over a mile away. In just 30 hours, the previously invincible walls were breached, forcing the Confederates to surrender. This brief but decisive siege marked a turning point in military strategy and signaled the end of traditional masonry fortifications.
Our visit began at the visitor center, where we watched a 20-minute film outlining the fort’s history. After getting our National Park passport stamped and picking up a map, we headed outside to explore the grounds. We followed the path around the exterior of the fort, pausing to examine the massive pockmarks left by artillery fire. Although much of the wall has since been repaired, we could still see significant damage—and even spotted a rifled cannonball lodged high in the brickwork.
The moat encircling the fort was an impressive feature in itself: seven feet deep and between 32 and 48 feet wide, filled with salt water drawn from the Savannah River through a canal and managed by a system of tide gates. We even saw a few fish jumping in the water. Not far from the main trail, we passed a small cemetery where Confederate prisoners and others were laid to rest.
Crossing the moat via the drawbridge, we made our way into the large earthen mounds—known as demilunes—positioned between the moat and the outer walls. Added after the Civil War, these structures were primarily used for storage. We then entered the fort through the sally port, with its thick brick walls and heavy wooden doors, and stepped into the preserved heart of Fort Pulaski.
Inside, we explored a variety of intriguing spaces: powder magazines, soldiers’ quarters, administrative offices, prison cells, an underground cistern, and artillery placements. Cannons were mounted both in the fortified casemates and along the top of the walls, providing commanding views of the surrounding landscape. Interpretive signs and exhibits helped us imagine the daily life of the soldiers who once served here.
We climbed the stairs to the top of the fort’s walls and were rewarded with sweeping views of the marshes and tidal waterways beyond. In the distance, we caught a glimpse of the Cockspur Island Lighthouse. Unfortunately, the biting flies and no-see-ums were relentless, cutting our time short at the top—but the view was well worth the effort.
Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist
After exploring Fort Pulaski, we headed back into Savannah’s historic district to visit one of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist. Nestled along Abercorn Street, this magnificent cathedral stands as a testament to both architectural beauty and Savannah’s deep-rooted Catholic heritage. We also had our sights set on stopping by the Peach Cobbler Factory.
We found a convenient parking spot near the Civic Center—perfectly situated between the two destinations—at just 50 cents an hour. Our first stop was the Peach Cobbler Factory. The place smelled incredible, and we were hopeful for a sweet treat, but the cashier was tied up cooking in the back. She greeted us and asked us to wait a minute, but after standing there for about 15 minutes without being helped, we decided to move on and continue toward the cathedral.
The walk to the cathedral stretched over a dozen blocks, but it was a pleasant one. We enjoyed weaving through Savannah’s charming small parks and admiring the historic homes that give the city so much of its character.
As we neared the cathedral, its soaring spires came into view—impressive even though they were mostly draped in netting for renovations. The exterior, with its Romanesque Revival design, featured pale stone and brilliant white details that stood out beautifully in the afternoon light.
The main doors were closed, but we entered through a side entrance. Inside, the cathedral was nothing short of awe-inspiring. Vaulted ceilings painted in soft blues and golds stretched overhead, giving the space a sense of serene grandeur. Sunlight streamed through vibrant stained-glass windows—some dating back to the 19th century—casting colorful reflections onto the marble floor. The effect was almost ethereal.
We wandered slowly, taking in the ornate altar, towering murals, and the intricately carved Stations of the Cross. A large baptismal font greeted us near the entrance, and we overheard a docent mention that over a thousand parishioners fill the church every Sunday. It was easy to see why—this space felt sacred, timeless, and truly special.
Colonial Park
We walked around the Colonial Park Cemetery which was established in 1750 and is the oldest intact municipal cemetery in Savannah. It spanned six acres and served as the city’s primary public burial ground until it was closed to interments in 1853 which means no confederate soldiers were buried here.
The cemetery contains over 9,000 graves and several dozen brick vaults, including those of soldiers from both the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812, as well as victims of several yellow fever epidemics. Among the distinguished dead who rest here are Bulloch, first President of Georgia; James Archibald Habersham, acting royal Governor of the Province, 1771-’73: Joseph Habersham, Postmaster General under three three Presidents; Lachlan McIntosh, Major General, Continental Army; Samuel Elbert, Revolutionary soldier and Governor of Georgia; Capt. Denis L. Cottineau de Kerloguen who aided John Paul Jones in the engagement between the “Bon Homme Richard” and the Serapis”; Hugh McCall, McCall, early historian of Georgia; Edward Greene Malbone, the noted miniaturist, and Colonel John S. McIntosh, a hero of the War with Mexico.
During the American Civil War, Union troops occupied Savannah and used Colonial Park Cemetery as a campsite. Reports suggest that soldiers damaged or defaced some of the stone markers and sought shelter inside vaults.
In 1913, the Daughters of the American Revolution erected the Patriots’ Arch at the cemetery’s entrance to honor Revolutionary War veterans buried there.
Wexford Irish
We continued into the Market Area of Savannah’s Historic District and soon found ourselves at Wexford, a welcoming Irish pub inspired by Wexford County—home to more than half of the Irish immigrants who settled in Georgia during the mid-1800s potato famine. Much of the pub’s interior had been crafted in Ireland and shipped over, lending an authentic charm to the space. We opted for a seat on the patio, which offered a perfect view of the square and made for excellent people-watching as tourists wandered by.
I ordered a Half and Half—a crisp, balanced blend of Harp and Guinness—while Lisa went with a pint of Smithwick’s, a smooth and malty Irish staple. For dinner, Lisa chose the Fish and Chips, served with fries and a side of coleslaw. The coleslaw had an unexpected twist: crumbles of blue cheese, which we later learned is the most popular type of cheese in Ireland. I went for the Chicken Pub Pie—a rich, comforting dish filled with tender chicken and vegetables, all tucked beneath a golden, flaky pastry.
Peach Cobbler Factory
For dessert, we made our way back to the Peach Cobbler Factory—determined not to leave Georgia without tasting its namesake treat. It felt like a fitting finale to our time in the state. The menu offered a tempting variety of cobblers, from apple cinnamon to honey apple and even specialty flavors like banana pudding and sweet potato. But we stayed classic and ordered the peach cobbler, served warm with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream which we opted to have on the side.
The cobbler didn’t disappoint. The peaches were soft and syrupy, infused with cinnamon and just the right amount of sweetness. The buttery crust had a golden, slightly crisp top that gave way to a soft, cakey texture underneath. Paired with the creamy vanilla ice cream, each bite was a delicious contrast of warm and cold, rich and fruity—a comforting Georgia sendoff.
After we finished the cobbler, we walked 0.3 miles to our truck and returned to the camper to relax for the evening.
Tuesday, April 8
This morning we packed up and headed to Charleston.