Saturday, Aug 10
The Journey from Homer to Seward
Today, we drove 162 miles from Homer to Seward, crossing the Kenai Peninsula. It was another rainy, overcast day with a high of 57 degrees.
Our route mostly retraced the Sterling Highway (AK-1) to Tern Lake, where we connected with the Seward Highway (AK-9) and continued south for 36 miles. The highway wound through Chugach National Forest, offering views of dense spruce and hemlock forests, alpine meadows, and rugged mountain peaks. The terrain had gentle curves and rolling hills, with occasional steep grades as we passed through mountain gaps. We also navigated through heavy road construction, with several sections of wet, slippery mud.
We drove through Moose Pass, a town named after a 1903 incident where a mail carrier’s dog team struggled to get past a moose. We had planned to stop at a gift shop to buy “moose balls,” but it was closed.
Seward KOA Journey
We stopped at Seward KOA Journey, located just north of Seward. The campground features a gravel parking lot with well-sized sites divided by ropes. Many sites have concrete patios and artificial turf. The views are stunning, with the Resurrection River across from us and towering mountains surrounding the area.
It was still cold and raining when we arrived, so we stayed inside the camper for the rest of the day.
Sunday, Aug 11
Seavey’s Ididaride
The day started with a tour of Seavey’s Ididaride at 8:30 am.
The Iditarod Trail
The Iditarod Trail, also known historically as the Seward-to-Nome Trail, is a thousand-plus mile historical and contemporary trail system in the US state of Alaska. The trail began as a composite of trails established by Alaskan native peoples. Its route crossed several mountain ranges and valleys and passed through numerous historical settlements en route from Seward to Nome. The discovery of gold around Nome brought thousands of people over this route beginning in 1908. Roadhouses for people and dog barns sprang up every 20 or so miles. By 1918, World War I and the lack of ‘gold fever’ had resulted in far less travel.
Today, the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race commemorates the role the trail and its dog sleds played in the development of Alaska. The route and a series of connecting trails have been designated the Iditarod National Historic Trail.
The trail has often been associated with the 1925 diphtheria outbreak in Nome when twenty drivers and teams carried life-saving serum from Nenana to Nome (674 miles) in 127 hours. The route used for this feat was from Nenana, a train stop for the Alaskan Railroad, to Nome along the Tanana, Yukon, and Koyukuk Rivers.
Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race
The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race is an annual long-distance sled dog race in Alaska in early March. It travels from Anchorage to Nome. Mushers and a team of between 12 and 16 dogs, of which at least 5 must be on the towline at the finish line, cover the distance in 8–15 days or more. The Iditarod began in 1973 to test the best sled dog mushers and teams but evolved into today’s highly competitive race. The ceremony begins in downtown Anchorage to Eagle River, 20 miles away, but the time does not count toward the official race time. The dogs are shipped to a restart point near Wassila, where the official time begins.
Seavey’s Homestead
The Seavey homestead is home to three generations of Iditarod mushers. Dallas Seavey, the only musher to win the race six times—2012, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2021, and 2024—continues the family legacy. His grandfather, Dan Seavey, helped organize and run the first Iditarod in 1973, while his father, Mitch Seavey, is a three-time champion.
Since 1993, the Seavey family has opened their homestead to the public during the off-season, offering summer dog sled rides and kennel tours to help keep their pups in shape and out of trouble.
Puppies
At the start of our tour, we received an overview of the kennels and dogs before being split into two groups: one to play with the puppies and the other to ride a wheeled dog sled. We were in the group that first got to play with the puppies, who were incredibly playful and energetic.
Dog Sled Ride
Next, we took a two-mile dog sled ride. We were seated in a small, fiberglass-wheeled cart with three rows of benches, and we were lucky enough to get the front seat. Fourteen dogs were hitched to the cart with a tow rope, and the musher controlled the ride from the rear. The ride was fast and bumpy, with plenty of sharp turns that had us sliding around in our seats. The trail wound through a dense forest, and along the way, the guide shared stories about the training and steering of the dogs, as well as some family and race anecdotes.
Iditarod Presentation
We were then escorted into a presentation hall, where various awards and photos from past races were displayed. On one side of the room, a stage was set up, and a staff member gave a presentation on the mechanics of the Iditarod race. The presentation covered topics such as how the dogs are cared for, the clothing worn by the mushers, and the design of the sleds. The interaction between the presenter and the dog was both informative and amusing. At one point, they invited a member of our caravan up on stage and dressed her in the gear typically worn during the race which was both humorous and educational.
Exit Glacier Viewpoint
The Exit Glacier, located just 6 miles from the campground, was an easy detour before we returned to the camper for lunch.
One of Alaska’s most accessible valley glaciers, Exit Glacier is rapidly receding. In the past decade alone, it has melted back nearly 1,000 feet. The glacier originates from the Harding Icefield, nestled in the Kenai Mountains. It was named “Exit Glacier” because it served as the route for the first recorded crossing of the Harding Icefield in 1968.
From the viewpoint, we had stunning views of the glacier, stretching across the braided Resurrection River, which was filled with meltwater and loose gravel. It’s hard to imagine, but about 200 years ago, the glacier’s edge was right up to the overlook where we stood, a testament to how much the glacier has receded over time.
Seward
After lunch, we drove into Seward, a charming town located on Resurrection Bay. With a population of about 3,000, Seward is the fourth-largest city on the Kenai Peninsula. Thanks to its proximity to the Gulf of Alaska, the town experiences relatively mild temperatures compared to the rest of the state. Only in January does the average daily high dip below freezing. Seward is known as one of the most lucrative commercial fisheries ports in the United States. It is also a key northern port for major cruise lines, situated at the southern terminus of the Alaska Railroad.
We took a leisurely drive around town, admiring the large murals that decorate several buildings. Our next stop was the Benny Benson Memorial Park, located near a lagoon. The park honors Benny Benson, the 14-year-old who won a 1927 contest to design the flag for the Territory of Alaska. His design features a blue field representing the Alaskan sky and the forget-me-not flower, the North Star symbolizing Alaska’s future as a state, and the Dipper constellation representing strength.
We also visited the Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center, where we picked up a magnet, got our passport stamped, watched a short film, and explored the small museum.
Next, we visited the Seward Mariner’s Memorial, situated on the uplands breakwater that protects the Seward Small Boat Harbor, home to a variety of commercial fishing vessels, more than 100 charter boats, and numerous tour boat operators. The memorial’s focal point is a lighthouse dedicated to mariners lost at sea, with a widow’s walk providing a stunning view of Resurrection Bay. A nearby wave wall honors donors and contributors.
Waterfront Park
Before entering the SeaLife Center, we took some time to explore the nearby Waterfront Park. One of the key landmarks was the Old Seward Railroad Depot, a historic building that has been repurposed into a charming restaurant. As we wandered through the park, we discovered various statues, plaques, and markers that narrated the story of Seward’s development and its importance in Alaska’s history.
Notable sites included the Iditarod Historic Trail Statue Mile 0, marking the starting point of the legendary trail, and the Founders Monument, honoring John Ballaine, a key figure in the town’s early days. We also found the Trail Blazers Statue, celebrating the pioneers who helped shape the area, and a statue of Jujiro Wada, a renowned dog musher who played an influential role in the history of sled dog racing.
In addition to these historical markers, there were several sculptures scattered throughout the park, adding an artistic touch to the landscape. We also came across a painted rock garden, where visitors can both leave their own creations and take home someone else’s, creating a fun and interactive experience.
Alaska SeaLife Center
The caravan had a group tour scheduled for 1 pm that afternoon at the Alaska SeaLife Center.
The Alaska SeaLife Center is a nonprofit aquarium and hub for marine research, education, and wildlife response. It is the state’s only permanent marine mammal rescue and rehabilitation facility, playing a vital role in the conservation and care of marine life. It received its initial funding from the Exxon Valdez Oil Spill settlement. The settlement included provisions for environmental restoration and conservation projects, and a portion of these funds was allocated to support the establishment and operation of the SeaLife Center
Upon arrival, our group was guided to a classroom where we experienced an engaging presentation on the rescue and rehabilitation process. A staff member provided insightful details about the incredible work done by the center’s veterinary team, highlighting examples of past and present patients. During the interactive segment, we were divided into groups and assigned injured animals to determine how we would rehabilitate them. The presentation also emphasized how visitors could support the center’s mission and be more mindful of our impact on marine life.
After the presentation, we were free to explore the center’s public areas. The facility offered various exhibits showcasing Alaska’s diverse marine life. We wandered through several aquariums filled with colorful fish and other marine creatures native to the region. One highlight was the seabird enclosure, where we got an up-close look at puffins and other seabirds, some of which were rehabilitated at the center.
Shallow water pools were set up to allow visitors to touch and learn about jellyfish, sea anemones, and other sea creatures. The hands-on experience was fun and educational, giving us a deeper understanding of the marine life that thrives in Alaska’s waters.
Another highlight was the Seabird Sanctuary, which provides a refuge for injured seabirds that cannot be returned to the wild. This enclosure houses several species of seabirds, including Tufted Puffins, Common Murres, Red-legged Kittiwakes, and Pigeon Guillemots. These birds are part of a 105,000-gallon exhibit that provides a deep pool for them to dive and swim, simulating their natural habitat. It was fun standing inside this enclosure and seeing all these birds fly all around us and sometimes standing upclose.
The Alaska SeaLife Center provided a fascinating glimpse into both the natural beauty of the state’s marine ecosystem and the incredible work being done to protect and preserve it.
Sweet Darlings
We stopped at the Sweet Darlings store to get some gelato before heading back to see the Exit Glacier Visitor Center.
Exit Glacier Nature Center & Trails
A mile past the Exit Glacier Overlook that we visited that morning is the Exit Glacier Nature Center. The center includes exhibits about the Exit Glacier area, an Alaska Geographic bookstore, and rangers to help answer questions about the area.
Short trails from the center offered different views of Exit Glacier. We first hiked the Glacier View Loop Trail, a one-mile accessible trail that took us through a cottonwood forest to the glacial meltwater channels, where we saw glacial till and large chunks of ice. We could also view the Exit Glacier spilling down from the Harding Icefield. I continued onward to the moderately strenuous Glacier Overlook Trail, which continued .6 miles uphill. This trail took me a little closer to the glacier and let me see the glacier from a higher elevation. It was also a fun trail. There were no trails that took visitors to the glacier, but there was an 8.2-mile round trip Harding Icefield Trail.
Monday, Aug 12
Eagles Nest at Campground
The eagles were quite active in the morning, and we caught glimpses of the two smaller eagles that would probably be leaving the nest soon.
Kenai Fjords 4 Hr Glacier & Wildlife Cruise
That afternoon, the caravan had scheduled us for a Kenai Fjords 4-hour Glacier and Wildlife Cruise. This cruise took us around Resurrection Bay, a protected area that is part of the Kenai Fjords National Park and Caines Head State Recreation Area. The bay is known for its rich biodiversity, including harbor seals, sea otters, humpback whales, and various bird species.
We met as a group at the Harbor 360 Hotel, but all the paid and free parking around it was packed. I ended up parking about seven blocks away.
The bay is surrounded by the Chugach and Kenai Mountain Ranges, which contain various alpine glaciers. The largest was Bear Glacier, a Piedmont glacier. It was also the largest glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park.
During the tour, some of the birds we found included Bald Eagles, black oystercatchers, seagulls, and puffins. Other birds in the area included marbled murrelet, murres (common and thick-billed), peregrine falcon, puffins (horned and tufted), and steller’s jays.
We saw whales, sea otters, steller sea lions, spotted harbor seals, mountain goats, and jellyfish.
There were many scenic waterfalls caused by snow and glacier melt.
General:
Seward Docks
After the cruise, we walked around the dock area and watched the fish being cleaned for the tourists.
The 69th Annual Seward Silver Salmon Derby was also ongoing (August 10-18) and we were able to take a peek at the current winner. Ten prizes, including $20,000, $10,000, and $5,000, were being awarded for catching a tagged fish. Seven other categories with prizes up to $1,500 were also available.
Red’s Burgers
We decided to eat at a little burger joint that had converted an old school bus into an indoor eating area. It was crowded, and the wait was over an hour, but we decided to stay anyway. We had an enjoyable conversation with a teacher who was moving to teach in a small remote school in the Aleutian Islands and a local.
Lisa enjoyed a burger basket, and I ordered the recommended Cod Basket. Both were good.
Tuesday, Aug 13
Eagles at Campground
We enjoyed watching the eagles in the morning before deciding to take a road trip to Cooper Landing since the weather was nice. Both prior times we had gone through that area it had been raining.
Kenai Mountains—Turnagain Arm National Heritage Area (KMTA)
As we traveled north along the Seward Highway, we encountered stunning turquoise lakes and rivers, the jagged peaks of the Chugach Mountains, and dense forests.
This region, known as the Kenai Mountains-Turnagain Arm National Heritage Area (KMTA), encompasses the road corridor between Seward, Hope, and Whittier. Stretching from Resurrection Bay in the south to Turnagain Arm of Cook Inlet in the north, it includes parts of the Chugach National Forest, the Iditarod Trail network, the Alaska Railroad, and the Seward Highway.
We stopped at a pullout featuring a boardwalk over a shallow lake covered in lily pads. While we didn’t spot any wildlife, we still enjoyed the beauty of the lily pads.
Following the Trail Lakes and the braided river that connects them, with the Chugach Mountains as a dramatic backdrop, we arrived at Kenai Lake. This large, zigzag-shaped lake serves as the headwaters of the Kenai River. Its crystal-clear, glacial waters stretch roughly 22 miles, surrounded by majestic, towering mountains.
Continuing past Kenai Lake, we reached Moose Pass and Upper Trail Lake. We made a quick stop at the local gas station, deli, and convenience store to check for “moose balls,” though we didn’t find any. Heading further north, we encountered some road construction. Fortunately, the conditions were much less slippery than when we had driven to Seward in the rain a few days earlier.
Just north of town is the largest fish hatchery in the Kenai Peninsula. The Trail Lake Hatchery is a “central incubation facility,” which means no salmon return directly to the hatchery. Instead, eggs and milt are collected at lakes and saltwater sites away from the hatchery and transported back by boat, truck, and sometimes plane.
Salmon Viewing at Fish Creek
Near the fish hatchery, we stopped at a pull-off with a sign that read, “Fish Viewing Aug- Sept.” A short trail took us to a creek where we saw a couple of living trout and some dead ones.
Tern Lake
We stopped at Tern Lake, a picturesque alpine lake surrounded by mountains, located at the junction of the Seward and Sterling Highways.
This area is a haven for birdwatchers, particularly during the summer months, when Arctic terns and other migratory birds flock to the region. Sometimes visitors may spot beavers, moose, or other wildlife in the vicinity, but we did not find any.
Kenai River
The Kenai River is the longest river in the Kenai Peninsula. It runs 82 miles westward from Kenai Lake into the Cook Inlet near Kenai and Soldotna.
Its source is the Kenai Lake, which narrows to form the river near Cooper Landing. About 12 miles from the lake, the river passes through Kenai Canyon for about 2 miles of fast-flowing whitewater rapids. The Russian River empties into the Kenai several miles west of Cooper Landing. The Kenai River is Alaska’s most popular sport fishing destination, particularly for king salmon (Chinook salmon). The world record king salmon weighed about 97 lb and was caught in the Kenai River in 1985.
We stopped at several locations along the river to enjoy the beautiful turquoise water of the river.
Russian River Ferry
We stopped at a pullover near the entrance to the Russian River Ferry. The Russian River Ferry is a privately operated ferry located at the confluence of the Russian and Kenai Rivers. There was a fee to enter the parking lot, but we could walk to the ferry landing from the pullover on the highway for free. The ferry carries foot passengers across the river for $12.
The confluence is one of North America’s most productive salmon sport fishing areas. Fishermen from all over Alaska and the world will stand shoulder-to-shoulder for a half mile on both sides of the river in a display of combat fishing. There can be more than a thousand fishermen at a time, all casting for the tens of thousands of sockeye swimming past. This is why they need a ferry. There isn’t enough room for all those who want to fish on a single side of the river.
Two distinct sockeye salmon runs return to this area. The early run usually arrives by June 15, with the historic midpoint of the run occurring on June 27. Most of the early-run fish have completed their migration by mid-July. The early run averages about 41,000 fish. The second run usually arrives mid-July and is the larger of the two runs, averaging around 72,000 fish. Anglers usually harvest half of each run.
Since we were outside the large salmon run time frames, we saw only 30-40 fishermen, and they were all on the other side of the river, which appeared to have calmer water from a bend in the river.
After spending some time here, we headed back to the camper.