Trip Meeting
Overnight, the temperature dropped into the high 40s, and the daytime high only reached 63°F.
It rained throughout the night and continued into the morning as we gathered at the campground meeting shelter for the trip briefing. The caravan leaders kindly provided coffee and snacks, which was a nice touch. The wagonmaster made several changes to our itinerary, but his explanation left many of us confused. The side conversations only added to the confusion. To make matters worse, when he handed out the paperwork afterward, it contained a few mistakes that only added to the uncertainty. All this added to the questionable utility of these trip meetings.
The Journey from Cardston, AB, to Fort MacLeod, AB
We were asked not to depart before 10 am so the wagonmaster could get a headstart so they could meet us at the next campground. It was only 66 miles on AB-2 from Cardston, AB, to Fort McLeod, AB. As the Canadian Rockies faded behind us, the landscape continued to be rolling plains and agricultural fields.
When we arrived at Rivers Edge RV Park, the host used a golf cart to get us quickly to our campsites. There was a gravel road through the park, but the sites were just grass and a little muddy because of the rain. We had power and water but no dump. The campground was near a river, but we were placed too far away from it to be able to see it. After getting set up, we made lunch and prepared to head out to Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump that afternoon.
Fort MacLeod, AB
The campground was located near Fort Macleod, with a population of about 3,200. Established in 1874 along the Oldman River, the town’s origins trace back to the efforts of the North-West Mounted Police (NWMP) under Colonel James F. Macleod. The NWMP set up the fort to curb the illegal whiskey trade and assert Canadian sovereignty in the West. The fort played a key role in establishing law and order during a critical period of Canadian expansion.
The arrival of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) in the late 1800s helped transform Fort Macleod into a bustling commercial hub, attracting settlers, traders, and entrepreneurs. The railway made it easier to transport goods and people, solidifying the town’s place in the region’s growth. Today, Fort Macleod maintains its historical charm, with several preserved buildings that reflect its rich heritage, including the Fort Macleod National Historic Site and the town’s old courthouse. The area offers a glimpse into the past while continuing to serve as a gateway to the beautiful foothills and southern Alberta.
River’s Edge Campground
When we arrived, the wagonmaster was waiting for us at the gate. The campground host greeted us and escorted us in a golf cart to our site. The campground’s unique layout gave it a more relaxed, open feel than the typical row-after-row arrangement. It offers a variety of shady and sunny sites, all with easy walking access to the Oldman River.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump
The area has long been inhabited by the Blackfoot people, who lived a nomadic lifestyle and relied heavily on the land and buffalo for survival. The nearby Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a powerful glimpse into this region’s deep Indigenous history, showcasing the hunting practices of the Plains People that spanned thousands of years.
Around 1 pm, we made our way to the Buffalo Jump Historic Site, just a 15-minute drive away. The site is anchored by a large interpretive center built into the side of a sandstone cliff that had once been used as a buffalo jump. The center is arranged across five distinct levels, each offering insights into the Blackfoot peoples’ ecology, mythology, lifestyle, and technology, all based on available archaeological evidence.
Upon arrival, the small parking lot at the base of the cliff was nearly full, but we managed to find a spot. From there, we walked up a steep road to the museum entrance halfway up the cliff.
At the entrance, our Wagon Master coordinated for tickets, and we received paper wristbands for admission. We arrived just in time for a traditional dance demonstration. The group reached a good viewing spot in the cramped museum entrance area. Lisa and I decided to head to the next level, where we had a great view of the dance floor. Though it was difficult to hear the narrator, we could watch a dancer perform intricate movements with rawhide hoops while dancing to the beat of a drum. It was a captivating experience.
Although the demonstration wasn’t finished, a 2 pm tour was scheduled, so our Wagon Master gathered us back on the first floor. We were led to the second-floor theater for an orientation and to watch a short film about the site’s history. Afterward, we visited a couple of displays on the second floor, but with over 50 people in our group, it was difficult for everyone to hear and see the details. We then took the elevator (or stairs) to the top floor, offering a panoramic view. Unfortunately, it had started raining heavily by then, so I decided not to take my camera outside. Lisa, however, braved the rain and returned completely soaked.
Once we were released to explore independently, we enjoyed exploring the museum at our own pace. The museum presented a different interpretation of how the buffalo jump was conducted compared to what we had learned at the buffalo jump in Havre. Some of the information in the exhibits contradicted the guide’s explanations, as he tended to lean more on oral traditions. At the same time, the displays were based on archaeological theories—two perspectives that didn’t always align.
Despite the differences in interpretation, we enjoyed the museum. Built into the side of the cliff, it felt larger than it appeared from the outside, though it didn’t take long to walk through it. By the time we finished, the rain had stopped.
On our way back to the campground, we made several stops at pull-offs to take in different views. We also paused to watch a group of goats causing a ruckus as they broke through a fence and scrambled to nibble on the fresh grass growing along the roadside.
Cardston
After dinner, we drove through MacLeod and then returned to Cardston, 41 miles away, to attend a community theater performance at the Carriage House Theater.
The Carriage House Theater, built in 1912, was the first large modern showhouse in the area. Over the years, ownership has changed, and several renovations have been undertaken. Today, the 300-seat theater hosts the town’s summer community theater productions. We thought it would be a fun way to experience local culture, but I made a mistake when purchasing tickets—I accidentally bought them for a performance on a day we would be in MacLeod instead of Cardston. Fortunately, it was just a 41-mile drive.
We arrived in Cardston early, so we got some gas and browsed a local grocery store. It was fun comparing Canadian food products to what we’re used to back home.
The show was Shrek the Musical. The talent was a bit mixed, but it was still fun and a great way to enjoy the local arts scene.
As we drove back to the campground, twilight settled in, and we enjoyed a stunning sunset over the vast, flat plains.
When we returned to the campground, we found the gate was locked. We had to leave our truck outside and walk back to the camper. The next day, the host apologized, explaining that they had wrapped the chain around the posts to make it appear locked.