Sunday, 13 April
Journey from Charleston to Newberry
We left Joint Base Charleston FamCamp around 10:30 a.m. and headed northwest for an overnight stay, traveling from the lowcountry into the piedmont region of South Carolina. By 1 p.m., we arrived at the Newberry/I-26/Sumter National Forest KOA Journey. This charming campground was dotted with what seemed like a thousand gnomes scattered across the property—so many that they even provided us with a scavenger hunt checklist to find specially marked ones.
We had a level pull-through site with full hookups. After a quick setup, we planned an afternoon trip to Ninety Six National Historic Site. It took us a while to leave the campground though as we kept getting distracted by all the quirky gnome displays. Eventually, we pulled ourselves away and followed scenic county roads southwest to the site.
Ninety Six National Historic Site
Located near Greenwood, the Ninety Six National Historic Site preserves the remains of a crucial Revolutionary War battlefield. Established in 1976, the 1,022-acre site offers an in-depth look into early American history and the Southern Campaign.
When we arrived, we were greeted by some staff conducting a National Park Service visitor survey. After about 15 minutes of questions, we finally headed into the visitor center, where we watched a 22-minute film detailing the battles that took place here. We also explored the small exhibit area.
The site was home to two important Revolutionary War battles. The first, in November 1775, was the war’s first land battle south of New England. This early clash took place between Patriot militia and Loyalist forces, Americans fighting Americans. Though the battle ended in a standoff, James Birmingham was mortally wounded in the fighting and is widely recognized as the first Patriot to die in the South during the war.
The second, in 1781, was a 28-day siege led by Major General Nathanael Greene against 550 Loyalists fortified in the Star Fort. The Star Fort was an eight-pointed earthen structure built by the British in late 1780 engineered for maximum defense. It featured 14-foot-high walls reinforced with logs and sandbags, a surrounding ditch, and sharpened abatis to repel attackers. It could house hundreds of troops and offered overlapping fields of fire for musket and cannon. Greene’s troops employed classic European siege tactics, including zigzag trenches and the construction of the Maham Tower, which allowed sharpshooters to fire into the fort. Despite these efforts, the Loyalist defenders held out until British reinforcements neared, forcing Greene’s withdrawal. Although the Patriots were ultimately unsuccessful, the Loyalists abandoned the site soon after.
A one-mile interpretive trail took us through the remains of the Star Fort, other battlefield earthworks, the reconstructed Maham Tower, and the original site of the town of Ninety Six—a key trading post on the colonial frontier. The Star Fort and the surrounding trenches is one of the best-preserved examples of an earthen fort from the Revolutionary War in the United States, and walking its perimeter gave us a visceral connection to the past.
Near the end of the trail stands a reconstructed Fort Williamson, a wooden stockade used by Loyalists during the war. Much simpler than the Star Fort, it was captured early during the 1781 siege and used by Patriot forces to launch trench works and artillery. Its partially reconstructed outline today offers a clear sense of its modest but important role in the battle.
Near the visitor center, we visited the Logan Log House, a two-story cabin built by settler Andrew Logan in the late 1700s—believed to be the oldest surviving home in Greenwood County. Rediscovered in 1967 during a demolition and moved to the historic site in 1971, the cabin now serves as the “Black Swan Tavern” during special events, recreating 18th-century tavern life with period furnishings and living history programs.
Downtown Greenville
After leaving Ninety Six, we drove to downtown Greenville to see the Reedy River Falls at Falls Park. We were surprised to find the streets bustling with people on a Sunday afternoon. Parking was scarce—we ended up paying $10 at a lot.
Falls Park was full of life, with people out enjoying the sun despite temperatures only in the low 70s. I crossed the Liberty Bridge, a 345-foot-long pedestrian suspension bridge with a graceful curve and a one-sided cable support system. The bridge offers breathtaking views of the 28-foot waterfall and has become a symbol of the city. Lisa preferred to walk to the base of the falls, where I met her after my bridge walk.
The area below the falls was lively, with children climbing the rocks and families exploring the riverbanks. I scrambled over the easier sections of rock. Afterwards, we followed the Riverwalk and then looped back through downtown, passing boutiques, hotels, and busy cafés on our way back to the truck.
Drive Home
We left Greenville and made it back to the campground in about 45 minutes. Before returning, we stopped for gas and grabbed dinner at a Zaxby’s drive-thru. Once home, we enjoyed our takeout and finished off the evening with the last of our Italian pastries for dessert.
Monday, 14 April
We headed northeast toward Knowxville to spend a couple of days with my sister.