Wednesday, Aug 14
The Journey from Seward to Palmer
It was a beautiful day as we set out on our 169-mile journey north, first traveling along the Seward Highway toward Anchorage and then continuing on the Glenn Highway to Palmer.
Our drive began with a stretch of gravel road due to construction near Moose Pass, but as we navigated this section, small scenic waterfalls fed by glaciers and snowmelt cascaded down the mountainsides.
As we pressed northward, the lakes we passed were mirror-like, their smooth surfaces reflecting the vibrant landscapes around them, making for some excellent photo opportunities.
Once we left the inland, mountainous terrain of the Kenai Peninsula, we began following the Turnagain Arm toward Anchorage. We stopped briefly at Beluga Point, hoping to spot some Beluga whales rumored to be in the area. Unfortunately, we did not find any.
Continuing through Anchorage, we hit some construction traffic, which delayed us by almost 30 minutes.
Palmer, AK
After finally leaving the city, we continued along the Glenn Highway toward Palmer, just an hour away. As we passed the Palmer fairgrounds, we saw preparations underway for the State Fair. Unfortunately, we were leaving just a day before it began, so we would miss the excitement.
Palmer is a charming town nestled in the heart of the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, located about 42 miles northeast of Anchorage. It is best known for its deep agricultural roots, which date back to the Great Depression. During that time, as part of a New Deal program, struggling farmers from the Midwest were relocated to Alaska to establish new farms. These settlers found fertile ground in the Matanuska Valley, where the long daylight hours of the Alaskan summer provided ideal conditions for growing crops.
Over the years, Palmer has become synonymous with agriculture, and its rich farming heritage continues to thrive today. The town is home to the renowned Alaska State Fair, held annually, where visitors can marvel at the astonishingly large crops that the valley produces. The fair often features record-breaking pumpkins, cabbages, and other vegetables that showcase the unique growing conditions in this region.
Mountain View RV Park
Mountain View RV Park was located three miles east of the town. The campground was a large grass field with about 96 sites, most featuring full hookups and 30-amp service. A large metal box below the outlet made it difficult to connect my surge protector without a dogbone. Thick forest surrounded the campground with stunning views of Matanuska Peak and other peaks though the clouds obstructed our view.
Drive to Independence Mine State Historical Park
After setting up our camper, we quickly made our way to Independence Mine State Historical Park.
Leaving Palmer, we traveled along Palmer-Fishhook Road, winding through the scenic Matanuska-Susitna Valley, where farmlands and forested areas created a postcard-worthy landscape. As we climbed into the Talkeetna Mountains, the road transitioned into Hatcher Pass Road, and the drive became more mountainous, revealing breathtaking views of valleys and towering peaks. Along the way, the Little Susitna River tumbled over clusters of boulders, adding to the beauty of the journey.
Near the Gold Mint Trailhead, we made a sharp turn and began a steep climb past fields of wild berries and the parked cars of berry pickers. The panoramic views of the valley below and Hatcher Pass were nothing short of stunning.
We arrived at the Independence Mine just before it closed, so we did not get to explore the historical site. This park preserves the remnants of one of Alaska’s most productive hard-rock gold mining operations, which thrived from the 1930s until its closure in 1951.
The park includes a collection of well-preserved buildings, old mining equipment, and interpretive displays that offer a glimpse into the challenging lives of the miners who worked here. Surrounded by the dramatic peaks of the Talkeetna Mountains, the park feels like a step back in time, set against a backdrop of rugged natural beauty.
Hatcher Road went farther up the mountain but transitioned to a dirt road, so we decided it was a good time to drive back down the mountain and head to a friend’s house for dinner.
Thursday, Aug 15
The Colony House Museum
We met at the Palmer Visitor Center & Museum the following morning for a guided tour. Our group was divided into two, and we began with a visit to the Colony House Museum, a small but historically rich site located a short walk from the visitor center.
The museum is housed in an original 1930s Matanuska Colony farmhouse, carefully restored to reflect the era. Upon arrival, a docent greeted us with an insightful overview of the colony’s history. The docent explained how the Matanuska Colony project was part of a New Deal initiative to relieve struggling families during the Great Depression. This ambitious program brought approximately 200 families, primarily from Minnesota, Michigan, and Wisconsin, to the fertile Matanuska Valley in 1935. Each family was provided with land, equipment, and resources to establish a farming community in Alaska, which was both experimental and challenging, given the remote location and harsh conditions.
After the introduction, we could explore the house, which had been beautifully restored to its original appearance. The interior had period-appropriate items, including a wood-burning stove, hand-sewn quilts, and vintage kitchen tools. Small details, like family photographs and handwritten letters, added a personal touch to the narrative of the settlers’ lives. The walls were adorned with historical information about the project, including maps, government documents, and photographs of the settlers arriving by train and steamer.
It was fascinating to imagine the resilience and determination it took for these families to leave their homes in the Midwest and start anew in the rugged Alaskan wilderness. Despite the challenges, many settlers succeeded in creating a thriving agricultural community that became the foundation of Palmer’s identity. The Colony House Museum brought this history to life tangibly and engagingly, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for the region’s heritage.
Palmer Visitor Center & Museum
After finishing our tour of the Colony House, we returned to the Palmer Visitor Center to explore its exhibits.
The museum section of the center is rich with photographs, artifacts, and documents from the 1930s, offering an in-depth look into life during the formation of the Matanuska Colony. These displays vividly capture the experiences of the pioneering families, from their journey to Alaska to their efforts to establish a farming community in the valley.
In addition to its historical focus, the museum also features exhibits highlighting the area’s agricultural heritage, which plays a significant role in Palmer’s economy today. Visitors can learn about the region’s reputation for producing massive vegetables due to the valley’s fertile soil and extended daylight during the growing season.
Outside the center, a demonstration garden showcases the local flora and the crops that thrive in the unique conditions of the Matanuska Valley. The garden was educational and attractive, with vibrant flowers and healthy plants reflecting the valley’s agricultural success. Scattered throughout the grounds were sculptures that added an artistic touch to the space.
Palmer Alehouse
For lunch, we went to the Palmer Alehouse, a popular local spot housed in a historic building that reflects Palmer’s rich agricultural past. Upon arrival, we were guided to a private upstairs meeting area, where the caravan had arranged a casual meal. We enjoyed an assortment of pizzas with various toppings, accompanied by non-alcoholic beverages.
The building itself added an extra layer of interest to the experience. Once the home of the Matanuska Valley Farmers Cooperating Association, it served as a hub for local farmers during the early days of the Matanuska Colony project. In its original role, the building facilitated collaboration and resource sharing among settlers, who worked together to establish a thriving agricultural community in the valley.
Musk Ox Farm
After lunch, we headed to the Musk Ox Farm, a remarkable agricultural facility dedicated to the domestication and study of musk oxen. Founded in 1997, the farm focuses on sustainable practices, including harvesting qiviut, the soft and incredibly warm undercoat of musk oxen, which is highly prized for its unique qualities.
The history of musk ox conservation is deeply intertwined with the farm’s mission. By the mid-20th century, wild musk ox populations were critically endangered, teetering on the brink of extinction. Recognizing the urgency, John Teal initiated the Musk Ox Project in the 1960s. Supported by grants from the W.K. Kellogg Foundation, the University of Alaska, and dedicated volunteers, Teal established Alaska’s first domestic musk ox farm in Fairbanks in 1964. This pioneering effort laid the foundation for today’s operations, which include a herd of 69 musk oxen.
Our visit began at the farm’s storefront, which featured a collection of high-end clothing items knitted from qiviut by local artisans. The quality of the garments was impressive, though their prices reflected the value of this rare material. An adjoining room showcased musk ox skeletons and taxidermy displays, providing a closer look at these fascinating animals.
We were divided into smaller groups for a guided tour of the pastures where the musk oxen graze. The first stop was a pen housing young musk ox calves, separated from their mothers only the day before. Their high-pitched squeals were sad to hear as they adjusted to their new environment.
Next, we toured the main pastures, including the breeding pen, where we observed the mature musk oxen up close. Our guide shared insights into the animals’ behaviors, the farm’s breeding program, and the challenges of caring for these unique creatures. The experience offered a fascinating glimpse into the intersection of conservation, science, and sustainable agriculture.
Eklutna Lake
After our tour at the Musk Ox Farm, we continued our adventure by heading south along the Glenn Highway to Eklutna Lake.
Eklutna Lake is nestled within the vast Chugach State Park and offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountain landscape. The lake is a picturesque reservoir framed by the rugged peaks of Twin Peaks and Bold Peak, which provide a dramatic backdrop. Fed primarily by the Eklutna Glacier and several smaller streams, the lake is vital to Anchorage’s water supply, providing 90% of the city’s drinking water. In addition, the reservoir serves as a source of hydroelectric power. Managing the lake’s water levels is a delicate balancing act, as it must meet the needs of power generation, drinking water supply, and the preservation of the surrounding ecosystem. Due to these competing demands, water levels fluctuate throughout the year, especially during spring and fall. Despite its primary role as a reservoir, Eklutna Lake has become a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a wide range of activities, including hiking, kayaking, camping, and winter sports during the colder months.
To get to the lake, we drove down Eklutna Lake Road, about 20 miles south of Palmer. The road winds through dense spruce and birch forests, with the thick trees obscuring most of the expansive views. The road gradually ascended toward the lake and a large parking lot.
We took a stroll around the area to explore the beautiful area. Numerous well-marked trails wind around the lake, offering easy access for hikers and nature lovers to enjoy the scenery. The shores of the lake were dotted with old fire pits, evidence of past visitors who had gathered around to enjoy the tranquility of the area. Nearby, a rental shack offered watercraft for those who wanted to get out onto the lake. The lake’s shimmering waters reflected the surrounding peaks and dense forest.
We spent some time wandering along the trails, taking in the beauty of the lake and the surrounding wilderness. The quiet, serene atmosphere made it a perfect spot to relax and enjoy the natural beauty that Alaska is so famous for.
Thunderbird Falls
After leaving Eklutna Lake, we set off for a short drive to the nearby Thunderbird Falls, another popular natural attraction.
The Thunderbird Falls Trail is a scenic 2-mile round-trip hike through a lush forest. Along the way, I was treated to the Eklutna River gorge vistas with its dramatic cliffs.
The trail took me to an overlook, where I saw the 200-foot falls plunging down the rocky cliff into the pool below. I did not take the stairs that would have taken me to the base of the falls and to another trail that followed the river at the bottom of the gorge.
The damp, shaded environment fostered the growth of various mushrooms along the trail.
Old Matanuska River Bridge
Returning to Palmer, we detoured along the Old Glenn Highway and stopped at the Old Matanuska River Bridge. This historic bridge was built in the 1930s and was once part of the original Old Glenn Highway that connected Anchorage and Palmer. It was a vital link before modern upgrades to the Glenn Highway system.
Spanning the scenic Matanuska River, the bridge is now open to foot and bike traffic, allowing visitors to cross and enjoy stunning views of the river and surrounding landscapes. The Matanuska River is known for its unique, often murky appearance, with its water taking on shades of green and brown due to fine silt particles ground by the Matanuska Glacier. These tiny particles, called “glacial flour,” are carried downstream by the river.
Walking across the bridge offered us picturesque views of the river below, the dramatic Matanuska River Gorge, and the towering Chugach Mountains in the distance.
Old Knik River Bridge
We stopped to visit the Old Knik River Bridge as we continued our drive along the Old Glenn Highway. Built in the 1930s, this historic structure spans the Knik River and, like the Old Matanuska River Bridge, was once part of the original highway route. The bridge is open to pedestrian traffic, though it appeared to be more deteriorated than the Matanuska Bridge, with weathered planks and rusted railings.
We spent a little time exploring the bridge and viewing the river and the surrounding landscape. The Knik River itself is known for its fast-moving waters. After snapping a few photos, we returned to the camper.