June 21, 2019
Levi Jackson Wilderness Road State Park
The drive to Levi Jackson Wilderness Road State Park was uneventful, though the park entrance featured narrow roads with steep drop-offs on either side that required careful navigation. Our pull-thru campsite was situated at the bottom of a hill and was noticeably muddy, with a water runoff grate about 20 feet away. The site itself had a paved section just wide enough for our trailer, and fortunately, it was level, making parking and setup straightforward. To minimize dealing with the mud, I ran the water hose along the top of the slide and carefully placed the electrical lines.
The park is steeped in history, as it’s crossed by sections of the Wilderness Road and Boone’s Trace. These pioneer trails, blazed by Daniel Boone, served as crucial routes for settlers traveling to Kentucky from Virginia through the Cumberland Gap for more than 50 years. Levi Jackson, one of the region’s earliest settlers, lent his name to the park, which was established on land donated by his descendants in 1931.
Harlan’s Restaurant
Once we were settled, we headed out to Harlan’s Restaurant, the site where Kentucky Fried Chicken began. Though it now operates as a typical KFC, it features a small museum showcasing the brand’s history. After ordering some classic KFC chicken, we explored the museum displays, which included memorabilia and photos highlighting Colonel Sanders’ legacy. It was an interesting glimpse into how the globally recognized fast-food chain started in this humble location. We took a few pictures before heading back to the park.
The park’s combination of historical significance and rustic charm made it a memorable stop on our journey, despite the muddy conditions at the campsite.
CUMBERLAND FALLS
Cumberland Falls
Our next stop was Cumberland Falls State Resort Park, home to one of the most impressive natural landmarks in the Eastern United States. Known as the “Niagara of the South,” Cumberland Falls is the second-largest waterfall east of the Rocky Mountains and boasts the highest water volume of any waterfall south of Niagara Falls. Indigenous peoples have inhabited and utilized the area surrounding the falls for over 10,000 years, adding a rich historical significance to its natural beauty.
The park is well-maintained, with paved walkways leading to several excellent vantage points above and below the falls. We could take in the sheer power and grandeur of the falls, which drop 68 feet into a rocky gorge from these overlooks. The constant mist rising from the waterfall’s base created a cooling effect, and the roar of the water was mesmerizing.
NATURAL ARCH SCENIC AREA
After enjoying Cumberland Falls, we took a short drive—about 30 minutes—to the Natural Arch Scenic Area. This USDA-maintained site features an overlook that provides a stunning view of the Natural Arch, a massive sandstone formation carved over centuries by wind and water. While we didn’t hike to the arch itself, the overlook offered a fantastic perspective of this geological wonder, framed by the lush greenery of the Daniel Boone National Forest. The peaceful setting and well-maintained viewing area made it an enjoyable and worthwhile stop.
EAGLE FALLS TRAIL
On our way back toward Cumberland Falls, we noticed a busy pull-off that turned out to be the trailhead for the Eagle Falls Trail. This 1.5-mile trail runs along the opposite bank of the Cumberland River and leads to Eagle Falls, a smaller but equally picturesque waterfall.
We decided to explore the trail together but soon found it challenging, with steep inclines and uneven terrain. Lisa opted to stay back on a comfortable section of the trail, while I pressed on, eager to see Eagle Falls. The hike became progressively demanding, involving dirt slopes, metal and rock stairs, hopping over a small creek, and navigating large boulders.
The effort paid off when I reached a point with a breathtaking view of Cumberland Falls from across the river. Seeing the powerful cascade from this angle gave a whole new appreciation for its scale and beauty. Although I didn’t make it all the way to Eagle Falls due to time constraints, the trail itself offered plenty of natural rewards.
The combination of the challenging hike, the serene forest surroundings, and the unique vantage points made this trail a highlight of the day for me. It’s definitely a must-visit for anyone prepared for a bit of adventure and looking to experience the falls from a fresh perspective.
We then headed home to prepare for the next day.
June 22, 2019
Natural Bridge State Park
Today, we ventured northeast to visit Natural Bridge State Park, despite the rainy forecast for the day. Opting to avoid highways, we set our GPS and took the scenic route north. After about an hour and a half of winding through rural roads, we drove straight through the park without realizing it. We had to turn around and retrace our steps to reach the park entrance. The park facilities and hotel are situated about half a mile from the Natural Bridge, so we had to make our way there.
To see the famous Natural Bridge, visitors must either hike a steep 0.75-mile trail or take a chairlift to the top. Since the trail was steep and the weather was still rainy, we chose the chairlift for a smoother ascent.
We parked at the chairlift lot, put on our rain ponchos, and bought round-trip tickets for $10 each. The ride up was smooth, although the last part of the chairlift ascent was noticeably steeper.
Upon reaching the top, we were greeted by the impressive Natural Bridge, but the real adventure lay ahead. The bridge itself is a narrow, rocky path about 78 feet long and 20 feet wide, with sheer drop-offs on both sides. Though it was still raining heavily, the rocks weren’t slippery, but there were puddles in various spots. Lisa needed to hold onto both my hand and arm to navigate across, but she made it! We stopped several times along the way to take photographs, though I was cautious about getting too close to the edges.
Once across the bridge, we followed a small, muddy trail that led us beneath it. The trail took us through a narrow crack in the rock about 40 feet long, where only one person could pass through at a time. From this vantage point, we could look up and see the Natural Bridge towering 65 feet above us—a truly remarkable sight.
Next, we headed back to the top of the bridge and took another trail that led to a lookout point, offering a side view of the entire Natural Bridge. This muddy trail took us to a rock outcropping about 200 yards from the bridge, where we could take in the full grandeur of the formation. Lisa had a tough time getting very far out onto the outcropping due to the dizzying height, but the view was well worth it.
Afterward, we made our way back to the chairlift for the descent, grateful for the chance to experience one of Kentucky’s natural wonders, despite the rain.
Red River Gorge and the Nada Tunnel
After leaving Natural Bridge State Park, we drove through the stunning Red River Gorge, a renowned area filled with rugged terrain and lush forest. The drive took us along a picturesque creek, winding through the gorge’s towering cliffs and deep ravines. It was a beautiful stretch, showcasing the unique landscape that makes this part of Kentucky so special.
One of the journey’s highlights was passing through the Nada Tunnel, a narrow, 900-foot-long tunnel carved through solid rock. Known as the “Gateway to Red River Gorge,” the Nada Tunnel is a historic and somewhat eerie landmark. “Nada” in the context of the Nada Tunnel does not stand for an acronym but is derived from a Spanish word meaning “nothing.” The name “Nada” was likely given to the tunnel and the nearby area due to the lack of significant development or habitation. The tunnel is a single lane, so traffic must take turns passing through, adding a sense of adventure to the experience. As we carefully drove through, the towering rock walls on both sides made it feel like we were entering a hidden world. The tunnel has become a symbol of the Red River Gorge region and is a must-see for anyone exploring this remarkable area.
Country Music Highway
After a quick lunch in the truck, we set off for Paintsville, driving along US Highway 23, also known as the Country Music Highway, famous for being the birthplace of many country music stars. The highway is a celebrated stretch that runs through eastern Kentucky, passing through towns and landmarks tied to the legacies of these stars.
Butcher Holler
Our first stop was Butcher Holler, the birthplace of country music legend Loretta Lynn. The road leading to Butcher Holler twisted and turned through the hills, with only a few crude signs marking the way. After navigating the narrow path, we arrived at the small parking area, which only had space for about six cars. All the spots were taken, so I ended up parking on a steep hill in the grass after moving a couple of cinder blocks to make room.
At the site, Loretta Lynn’s family cabin was filled with memorabilia from her early life, and the only way to tour the cabin was through a guided $5 tour. Unfortunately, we were too eager to move on, and I didn’t want to risk leaving my truck in such a precarious spot, so we decided to skip the tour. Instead, we explored the outside of the cabin before heading to the Highway 23 Museum to learn more about the country music history of the region.
Highway 23 Museum, Paintsville, KS
We arrived at the Highway 23 Museum about an hour before closing, but because the facility was hosting a 50th birthday party in one of the meeting rooms, the manager, Olga, graciously invited us in and gave us a private tour. Her enthusiasm was infectious as she led us through the museum, sharing her passion for the local country music history.
Our visit started with a ten-minute documentary on the making of Coal Miner’s Daughter, the iconic film about Loretta Lynn’s life. After the film, Olga guided us to a separate room that featured various displays showcasing memorabilia from country music stars born in the area. While the collection was interesting, it felt somewhat sparse and unimpressive. There were a few items related to the artists, but the overall presentation didn’t live up to the hype surrounding the region’s rich musical heritage.
Despite the small scale of the museum, we picked up a DVD of Coal Miner’s Daughter to watch that evening, hoping to deepen our understanding of the life of one of Kentucky’s most famous country music stars.
Highway 23 – The Country Music Highway
We took Highway 23 back to the campground, passing exits to small towns marked by signs highlighting the birthplaces of various country music stars. These signs reminded us of the region’s proud identity as the Country Music Highway, a stretch of road rich with musical history.
On the way back, we stopped at Walmart to pick up supplies. The humidity in our trailer was becoming unbearable, so we hoped to find a small humidifier to help with the dampness. Unfortunately, Walmart didn’t have any that would fit our trailer, so we left empty-handed in that regard.
We refueled the truck and then headed back to the trailer to unwind. We enjoyed a hearty meal of sausages, chili, and salad for dinner, followed by some nostalgic Girl Scout cookies for dessert. We ended the evening by watching Coal Miner’s Daughter, immersing ourselves in the story of Loretta Lynn’s life and career.