Saturday, 12 Sept
We left the storage lot at 8:30 am, bound for Kanopolis State Park. Google Maps offered two options: an interstate or state highway route, both estimated at 3.5 hours. We chose the scenic state highways but still had to take the interstate for part of the journey.
About an hour in, we stopped in Emporia for gas and a quick bio-break. The drive was smooth, with yellow wildflowers in full bloom along the broadside and perfect weather accompanying us. We arrived at Kanopolis State Park right on schedule, around 12:30 pm, without issues.
Kanopolis State Park
When we arrived at Kanopolis State Park, no entrance booth was staffed to check passes or assist with directions. Fortunately, I had already mapped our campsite in the Eagle Point Campground on Google Maps because there were no signs to guide us. Upon reaching our site, we found a couple of tents still occupying it. With checkout time not until 2 pm and beautiful weather, I wasn’t too upset. I politely asked the campers when they planned to leave, and they assured me they’d be gone in about 30 minutes. Relief!
While waiting, we made good use of the time by handling some arrival chores: transferring food from the cooler to the refrigerator, moving a few items from the truck into the trailer, and enjoying a quick lunch. By the time we finished, the previous occupants had packed up and left.
Our site was a pull-through, set back one row from the lake but still offering a lovely water view. As we completed our walkaround before unhooking from the truck, Lisa noticed a water spigot missing. It turned out I had mistakenly reserved a site with only electricity. Luckily, there was a water spigot at the nearby dump station. We drove over to fill the fresh water tank and used the opportunity to enjoy our first beer of the trip.
Once back at the site, we quickly disconnected, leveled, and connected the power. Since it was already mid-afternoon and I knew many local attractions would be closed on Sunday, we decided to leave the rest of the setup for later and head out to explore the area.
Lindsborg
Since it was already late in the day, we decided to visit Lindsborg, often called the “Little Sweden of Kansas.” This charming town is known for its strong Swedish heritage and vibrant cultural scene. I had read about its impressive Old Mill Museum, centered around a historic flour mill that is still operational.
The museum itself was relatively small but packed with interesting and well-curated displays. These exhibits provided a fascinating look into the lives of Swedish and Mennonite immigrants who settled in early Kansas. Artifacts, photographs, and stories highlighted their traditions, struggles, and contributions to the region’s development. With its beautifully preserved machinery, the flour mill offered a glimpse into the agricultural history that shaped the area. We learned how the mill had been a central hub for the community, grinding locally harvested wheat and fostering the town’s growth.
The mill was incredible—a towering, four-story structure filled with intricate, belt-driven machinery and meticulously crafted wooden parts. Each floor was like stepping back in time, with a maze of pulleys, belts, and gears that worked together to power the milling process. The craftsmanship was a work of art in its own right, showcasing the ingenuity and skill of its builders.
The staff shared that the flour mill is still operational and used once a year during special events or demonstrations. I could only imagine how thunderously loud it must be when all the machinery comes to life. They explained how the belts and gears, many of which are original to the mill, work in harmony to grind wheat into flour, just as they did over a century ago.
Standing amidst the towering machinery, we marveled at how this mill not only represented an engineering marvel of its time but also served as a lifeline for the local community, processing the grains vital to settlers.
Outside the mill, the museum grounds featured several other historical buildings and displays that added depth to the experience. The centerpiece was the impressive Swedish Pavilion, a building that had originally been constructed for the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair (also known as the Louisiana Purchase Exposition). It was later relocated to Lindsborg, where it stands as a testament to Swedish craftsmanship and architectural beauty. The pavilion’s design reflected traditional Swedish influences, with intricate woodwork and decorative elements that made it a striking and unique structure.
In addition to the pavilion, there were other well-preserved historical structures, including a small one-room schoolhouse, a blacksmith shop, and a barn filled with antique farming equipment. These buildings helped to paint a vivid picture of what life was like for the early Swedish and Mennonite settlers in Kansas. Informative plaques and displays provided context, making the visit educational and engaging.
The museum also had an outdoor exhibit of vintage milling and agricultural tools, some of which were massive pieces of iron and wood that had once played a crucial role in local farming.
We then headed to Lindsborg’s charming and tourist-friendly downtown area, which was brimming with character and Swedish heritage. The main street was impressively wide, a nod to the town’s historic design, and it was lined with a delightful mix of boutique shops, galleries, coffee shops, and restaurants. Many of the storefronts were adorned with Swedish flags and decor, reinforcing the town’s identity as the “Little Sweden of Kansas.”
One of the most memorable aspects of downtown Lindsborg was the collection of 34 brightly painted Dala horses scattered throughout the area. These iconic Swedish symbols had been whimsically decorated with unique themes and designs, showcasing local artistry and creativity. From floral patterns to humorous pop-culture references, each horse told its own story. Many wore face masks, a playful nod to recent events, adding to their charm and cuteness.
We took our time walking the streets, pausing to admire the Dala horses and snapping plenty of photos. Some horses were stationed outside shops, inviting visitors inside, while others stood proudly as stand-alone art pieces. For those who wanted a deeper dive into the town’s love for Dala horses, a brochure offered a map of their locations and explained the story behind each design.
In addition to the Dala horses, the town had several mural walls and decorative signs celebrating Swedish culture and history.
Bethany College
On our way to get gas, we drove through Bethany College, a small liberal arts school with a strong connection to the town’s Swedish heritage. The campus was charming, with well-maintained brick buildings and tree-lined walkways that gave it a cozy and academic feel.
As we passed the athletic department, we noticed a striking statue of the “Terrible Swede,” the college’s iconic mascot. The larger-than-life figure stood proudly, representing the school’s sports teams and paying homage to its Swedish roots. Intrigued, we couldn’t resist pulling over to take a closer look. We spent a few minutes snapping selfies and marveling at the quirky creativity.
Marquette
At the gas station, we picked up some sodas and filled the tank before setting off for Marquette, a charming and tiny town we had seen advertised on promotional signs throughout the area. The signs piqued our curiosity, and we decided to detour to see what it was all about.
When we arrived, we were greeted by a quaint and quiet town with a lot of character. One of the highlights was the small river running through it, complete with a picturesque waterfall. We spent a few moments there, enjoying the sound of the rushing water and taking in the serene surroundings.
As we explored further, we noticed several buildings decorated with vivid murals, each depicting scenes or themes that captured the spirit of the community. The artistry was impressive, and it was clear that the town took pride in its creative displays. Unfortunately, since it was getting late, we didn’t take the time to stop for pictures, but we made a mental note to return another day.
One spot that particularly caught our attention was a soda fountain in town that we hoped to visit during our next trip. We left with a sense of anticipation, eager to come back and explore the town more thoroughly in the future.
Dinner
When we got back to the trailer, we finished setting up the Blackstone grill while Lisa got the dinner prepared. For the first time, I connected the gas connector on the underside of the trailer which worked great. That will save me from having to carry extra propane bottles in the truck. For dinner, Lisa fixed some Caesar salads, hamburgers, and baked beans.
Wildlife Viewing Area
We then drove over to the Kanopolis State Park Wildlife Viewing Area. On the way there, we saw many deer out for the evening.
The area was located near the Smoky Hill River. It offered a mix of dirt and boardwalk trails through grasslands, wetlands, and woodlands, with observation decks for wildlife viewing. Educational signs enhanced the experience. Unfortunately, we did not see any animals beyond a couple of frogs.
Evening
We did not see any more deer on the way back to the trailer but we did admire the last of the sunset. By the time we made it back to the trailer, it was pretty dark so we settled in for the night.
Sunday, 13 Sept
It was a beautiful morning but a little cool, so we had to wear our sweatshirts.
After our first cup of coffee, we decided to walk on one of their popular trails. So we put on our hiking shoes and climbed into our truck and headed over that way.
Buffalo Track Canyon Nature Trail
The trailhead for the Buffalo Track Canyon Nature Trail marked the start of three different paths. Since the park is popular with horseback riders, two trails allowed horses, while one was designated for hikers only. To avoid horses and their droppings, we chose the hiker-only trail. The sandy path meandered along a creek, offering plenty of wildflowers, plants, and stunning sandstone cliffs, making for a scenic hike. Unfortunately, many cliffs were marred by deep carvings of people’s names and initials. We even spotted a cave along the way, though the sandstone up to it was too slippery to explore.
The trail was one-way, so instead of retracing our steps, Lisa found some stepping stones that allowed us to cross to the other side of the creek. However, we soon realized the trail didn’t loop back to the trailhead but led further into the canyon. We wandered up and down several smaller trails until we found a spot to hop across the creek using some logs. We were a little lost at this point, but with our cell phone compass guiding us, we returned to the truck. Whew!
Kayaking
By the time we returned, it was nearly 11 a.m., so we decided we were in the mood for lunch rather than breakfast. We enjoyed sandwiches and grapes, then made plans to head out for kayaking.
The lake was calm, and with few boats around, we had peaceful waters. As we paddled, we admired the lake homes and the impressive sandstone cliffs lining the shore.
One of the highlights of our trip was observing a large nesting area for seagulls. The noise from the colony was deafening.
We were out for a little over an hour and then took some showers and headed out to tour some more of the area. After we took our obligatory picture at the state park welcome sign, we followed the Prairie Trail Scenic Highway toward Kanopolis.
Kanopolis
Kanopolis was once home to Fort Hawker, a key military post established to protect the railroad and settlers from Native American groups in the late 1800s before their forced relocation to Oklahoma. The fort operated from 1866 to 1872, replacing Fort Ellsworth, which existed briefly before. Today, only a guard blockhouse remains.
We parked near the blockhouse and strolled around the grounds, exploring the outside of the blockhouse. Several information signs let us learn more about the fort and its history.
Despite the town’s small size, with fewer than 500 residents, it was clear that the community took great pride in the well-maintained blockhouse, which stood as a testament to its historical significance.
Ellsworth
Our next stop was just a few miles down the road in Ellsworth, a town once central to the cattle industry, where drovers brought cattle to be loaded onto trains and shipped east. Known as the “wickedest town in the West,” Ellsworth gained its reputation from the drovers who spent their hard-earned paychecks on the town’s many vices.
Though the Ellsworth Historical Society museum was closed on Sundays, we explored a small park outside with several restored buildings. The park also featured metal silhouettes and informational kiosks marking the locations of former saloons and shops, each offering historical descriptions and stories. While it would have been nice to visit the museum, the outdoor exhibits made the stop well worth it.
Canton
We then headed toward Canton to see the famous water towers the town was known for. The two towers, marked “Hot” and “Cold,” have become a local landmark and a popular talking point for visitors. The origin of the names dates back to the 1950s when the town decided to distinguish between the two water sources: one was used for the town’s fire suppression system (the “Hot” tower), and the other for regular potable water (“Cold”). Over the years, the towers have symbolized the town’s quirky sense of humor and unique history. It’s a fun, offbeat sight, and we couldn’t resist stopping for a few photos!
Marquette
After taking pictures of these water towers, we headed back toward Lindsborg to get some gas before going to Marquette again to take some pictures of the murals on the buildings. These murals looked more like posters of various celebrities than murals, but it was interesting. One of the disappointments of the trip was that we never visited the soda fountain in town when it was open because it was only open Tuesday through Saturday.
Outlaw Park
On our way back to the campground we stopped at the COE Outlet Park to check out the Kanopolis Lake Falls. These falls were located at the end of the overflow outlet, and it’s unclear whether they were man-made or formed naturally from the large amounts of water released through the overflow. The falls stood about 2-3 feet high, cascading beautifully over the rocks.
Evening
We returned around 7:30 pm, and Lisa quickly heated some pre-made meatloaf, French-cut beans, and mashed potatoes for dinner. We enjoyed our meal outside, watching as the twilight gradually overtook the lake. Afterward, we sat down to the water’s edge, where the soft pink overcast cast a serene glow across everything. Fish were jumping, and we even spotted a turtle popping its head in and out of the water, which was a nice, peaceful touch to the evening.
Eventually, the bugs drove us inside, where I spent some time experimenting with my Akaso camera, trying to capture time-lapse photos. To cap off the evening, I treated myself to a microwave s’more before heading to bed.
Monday, 14 Sept
We took our time packing after having breakfast. We watched a gopher digging some holes near our camp. It was bolder than I expected since we were only about 20 feet away and not very quiet.
After stopping off at the dump station, we briefly put one of our painted rocks on the state park sign before heading to the next state park.