Wednesday, 9 April

Journey from Savannah to Charleston

We took I-95 North to US-17 E. The drive along US-17 was especially scenic, with stretches of pine forests, marshland views, and brief stops through several historic towns. We passed several historical markers, including those marked as Revolutionary War markers. I looked up the significance of the area of the internet and learned about the various battles that occurred in the area. I was astonished to learn that South Carolina had more Revolutionary War battles than any other state. As we approached Charleston, we picked up I-526 toward North Charleston, which transitioned to I-26. From there, it was just a short drive to the campground. The whole trip took about 2 1/2 hours.

JB Charleston FamCamp

We had reservations at the Family Campground (FamCamp) on Joint Base (JB) Charleston, which comprises Charleston Air Force Base and Naval Weapons Station Charleston. The Air Force Base is a major transport hub, operating various aircraft, including the C-5 Galaxy, KC-10 Extender, C-17 Globemaster III, C-130 Hercules, C-130J Super Hercules, and KC-135 Stratotanker. These massive planes made quite a bit of noise as they took off—an impressive, if loud, backdrop to our stay.

We entered the installation’s back gate, and after clearing the guard station, we drove straight to the campground and our site. It featured a wide concrete pad, plenty of shade, and full hookups—everything we needed. We initially set up in site #17, but when we went to register, I asked about extending our stay. They said we could stay an extra day if we moved to site #14, so we packed up and relocated.

After settling into our new site, we drove to the base’s Information, Tickets & Travel (ITT) office to check for discounted admission to local attractions. Unfortunately, the office wasn’t very helpful, so we returned to the camper to research online instead.

Thursday, 10 April

Vicious Biscuit

In the morning, we headed to Vicious Biscuit in Mount Pleasant, a restaurant located about 40 minutes away on a peninsula along the east side of Charleston Harbor. Vicious Biscuit is a fast-casual, Southern-inspired breakfast and brunch chain famous for its oversized, flavor-packed biscuits. Lisa ordered the classic biscuits and gravy with a side of eggs, while I went for the shrimp and grits—rich, hearty, and full of Southern charm. We also shared an order of Vicious Beignets, indulgent pastries filled with cinnamon cream cheese and topped with strawberry jam, whipped cream, and fresh-cut strawberries.

The food was delicious, and the service stood out just as much. The staff walked us through the menu when we ordered and followed up after our meal to ensure everything was just right. The decor added to the experience—fun and a little cheeky, with their skull-and-crossbones logo cleverly swapped for rolling pins and a chef’s hat replacing the pirate hat. Vicious Biscuit delivered a flavorful, memorable breakfast with personality to spare.

Patriot Point

We had tickets for the 10:45 a.m. ferry to Fort Sumter—one of only two departures offered each day. The boat left from Patriots Point, just 10 miles from the restaurant, at the same docks shared by the Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum, which we planned to explore later that afternoon. Parking for the day costs $22. We arrived around 9:30 a.m., giving us plenty of time before check-in, so we took a short walk across the street to visit the Cold War Submarine Memorial.

Cold War Submarine Memorial

At the heart of the memorial stands the preserved sail and rudder of the USS Lewis and Clark (SSBN-644), a Benjamin Franklin-class ballistic missile submarine. The rest of the submarine’s form is suggested by black cinder blocks, carefully arranged to create the illusion of the vessel breaking through the earth’s surface. Surrounding the memorial are benches engraved with the names and insignias of Cold War-era submarines. At the same time, interpretive panels share stories of how these vessels helped maintain nuclear deterrence and global stability during one of history’s most tense and uncertain periods.

The memorial offers a powerful tribute to the submariners of the “silent service”—a fitting start to a day steeped in history.

Fort Sumter

We returned to the docks by 10:15, checked in, and boarded the ferry to Fort Sumter. We found a great spot on the top deck, giving us an open-air view of Charleston Harbor as we cruised toward the fort. As the ferry departed at 10:45, we had a great view of the USS Yorktown, which we had plans to visit later that day. We also saw many sailboats possibly preparing for the 29th Charleston Race Week that started today. This event includes three days of boat racing with entries across multiple classes and courses. We also saw a huge container ship leaving the harbor.

As we continued toward Fort Sumter, we passed Shutes Folly Island, once home to Fort Pinckney—a small coastal fort built between 1797 and 1804 as part of America’s early defense system. Although strategically located, it never saw combat. A hurricane in 1804 severely damaged the structure, and over time, erosion and neglect erased most traces of the fort. Today, only remnants remain, and the island is privately owned and closed to the public.

As we approached Fort Sumter, we were immediately struck by its small size. A Park Ranger greeted us at the dock, and another gave a brief introductory talk inside the fort.

The construction of Fort Sumter began in 1829 on an artificial island at the mouth of Charleston Harbor. It was part of a broader coastal defense initiative, but it remained incomplete when the Civil War erupted. On April 12, 1861, Confederate forces fired the first shots of the war at the Union garrison stationed there. After 34 hours of relentless bombardment, Major Robert Anderson surrendered the fort, marking the official start of the conflict. Fort Sumter remained in Confederate hands for most of the war, enduring heavy Union shelling until its recapture in February 1865. The fort was partially rebuilt in the following years and served various military functions through World War II.

We had about 45 minutes to explore, just the right amount of time since it was very small.. We started in the small museum housed in a post-Civil War section of the fort. It offered a thoughtful overview of the events leading up to the war and the fort’s history. From there, we wandered the grounds, noting cannonballs still lodged in the brick walls—quiet, weathered evidence of the battle that began it all. The harbor waters were low, giving us a unique view of the water around the fort at low tide.

Afterward, we caught the return ferry to Patriots Point. Though the visit was brief, we found the tour worthwhile.

Patriot Point Naval and Maritime Museum

When we reached the short, we immediately dropped off our light jackets in the truck and then headed into the Naval & Maritime Museum. Before we crossed the pier to the USS Yorktown, we walked through an exhibit that was called the Vietnam Experience.

Vietnam Experience

The Vietnam Experience Exhibit at Patriots Point recreates a U.S. Marine Corps fire base and support base with authentic military equipment, vehicles, and structures from the Vietnam War era.

We began inside a Quonset hut, watching a powerful audiovisual presentation titled “I Was There.” The film featured firsthand accounts from veterans who shared raw and emotional reflections on their experiences during and after the war. Their voices were honest and often heart-wrenching, bringing a deeply human perspective to the conflict. Throughout the presentation, we were surrounded by the sounds of gunfire and explosions, which heightened the intensity and helped immerse us in the reality of the battlefield.

After the film, we explored additional exhibits inside the hut and stepped outside to find a small patrol boat like those used to navigate the rivers of Vietnam. From there, the display expanded into a fully realized Marine firebase. We walked past reconstructions of a mess hall, bunkhouse, hospital, command post, sandbag bunkers, watchtowers, and even a latrine. Towering palm trees and jungle foliage helped transport us into the tropical landscape of Southeast Asia.

Vietnam-era helicopters, including the iconic Huey, stood ready on the landing zone. At the same time, artillery pieces and military trucks surrounded the base. A converted shipping container housed another short film depicting the chaos and fear of the Tet Offensive, placing visitors in the middle of an enemy attack.

Ambient sound effects—helicopter rotors, distant gunfire, and radio chatter—played throughout the exhibit, reinforcing the feeling that the base was still active. Along the way, indoor and outdoor displays featured personal artifacts, photographs, and detailed information that shed light not only on military operations but also on daily life for both American soldiers and the Vietnamese people.

The Vietnam Experience Exhibit is immersive, sobering, and respectful—a moving tribute that offers education and empathy for one of the most complex chapters in American history.

USS Yorktown

We then walked down the pier to the USS Yorktown, the centerpiece of Patriots Point. This legendary aircraft carrier, nicknamed “The Fighting Lady,” served in World War II, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War. Now permanently docked in Charleston Harbor, she serves as a powerful and immersive museum ship.

We explored multiple self-guided tour routes throughout the ship. Starting on the hangar deck, we walked among vintage aircraft from WWII to the Cold War. We watched a short film in the theater before heading up to the flight deck, where we found additional fighter jets and bombers. The immense size of the ship amazed us.

We then returned to the hanger deck and walked through the other marked tours, which took us through restored crew quarters, the galley, medical bay, engine room, chapel, and even the brig—gaining insight into how sailors lived aboard the ship. The ship’s interactive exhibits and displays brought history to life with mannequins, sound effects, and artifacts.

As we climbed ladders and ducked through narrow hatches, we appreciated the sheer complexity, size, and history of the ship and renewed our respect for those who served on it. We explored the carrier until the museum closed at 5 p.m.

USS Laffey

Next to the USS Yorktown was the destroyer, USS Laffey (DD-724), an Allen M. Sumner-class destroyer famed for surviving a brutal kamikaze attack during WWII, earning the nickname “The Ship That Would Not Die.” Commissioned in 1944, she served at D-Day and notably during the Battle of Okinawa, where she withstood hits from 22 Japanese aircraft. After WWII, she served in Korea and during the Cold War.

We didn’t have time to explore the ship, but it looked a lot like the USS Orleck we toured in Jacksonville—modified to support anti-submarine drones. It was especially interesting to see how small it looked beside the USS Yorktown, which really highlighted the difference in size.

Coast Brewery Company

After we left Patriots Point, we decided to go to Coast Brewing Company in North Charleston. This brewery was recommended to us when we checked into the campground. We went inside and ordered a flight of beers and a hamburger to split, and then sat outside on their large patio enjoying the cool late afternoon. All the beers were good, but we both decided to get an additional glass of Rye Nut American Brown Ale with an intense malt character and a slight caramel sweetness made from chocolate and rye malts.

We also ordered some tallowed-fried potatoes. This Charleston culinary tradition involves soaking potatoes in water to remove excess starch, blanching them in tallow for a pre-fry, and then finishing them in hotter tallow until golden brown. They were especially good with the bloody mary ketchup that came on the side.

Friday, 11 April

Historic Horse & Carriage Tour

It rained hard around 4 am but stopped around 6 am and it turned out to be a beautiful day with highs only in the low 70s. We had bought tickets for $87 for a 9 am one-hour Historic Horse and Carriage Tour by Charleston’s Old South Carriage. We left the camper about 8 am and arrived around 8:30 am despite the heavy rush hour traffic. The meeting point was near the The Charleston City Market which was a series of open-air sheds and enclosed buildings filled with vendors selling everything from sweetgrass baskets (a traditional Gullah craft) to local art, handmade jewelry, and Lowcountry culinary goodies like benne wafers and pralines.

We parked at some parking meters that charged $3 per hour and walked the three blocks over to the stables. After checking in, we had about 15 minutes to walk around the stables and take a restroom break. We were then loaded with seven other parties onto a four bench carriage. We got the back bench and had plenty of room.

The tour began by the driver picking up a GPS that would mark where the horse used the bathroom so a cleanup crew could clean it up later, and a route marker. There were several companies operating carriages, and each carriage was given a random route when they start by a “bingo” system. This kept the carriages from following each other and helped keep them from congesting the roads. The route took us through the heart of the historic district, where our guide shared a mix of entertaining jokes and educational insights as we travelled at a slow pace through the city. From the outset, we’re surrounded by the city’s beautiful, centuries-old architecture, the live oaks with Spanish moss, and the slow clip-clop of the horse’s hooves sets the tone for a relaxed exploration of Charleston’s history. We often had to pull over on the narrow streets to let cars and trucks pass us. The hour went quickly and we did not travel far, so it only wetted our appetites to wanting to explore more of the city,

Grayline Bus Tour

Though the carriage tour was fun and informative, when we got off the carriage we felt that we had not seen enough of Charleston. We guickly walked back to the truck through the City Market buildings back to the truck and booked a Gray Line 90-Minute Historic City Tour through Viator for 11 am. It departed from the visitor center which was about a mile away, so we drove up to the visitor center and parked in the parking garage there.

It was about 10:30 am when we reached the Visitor Center, so this gave us enough time to relax and explore the visitor center and the gift shop before our bus arrived.

This guided tour was conducted in a climate-controlled, 25-passenger minibus. that the drive expertly drove through Charleston’s narrow, historic streets and cobblestone alleys. ​ The driver gave us a non-stop narrative as we drove around the city introducing us to the city’s rich history but spent most of the time immersing us in its remarkable architecture. We were able to see more of the city because of the time and the extended range of the bus which was nice, but she drove slow and stopped often so we could appreciate the sights around us.

We left the tour much more satisfied that we had gotten a good look at the historic city.

The History of Charleston

Charleston has a layered history that stretches back over 350 years. Founded in 1670 as Charles Town, in honor of King Charles II of England, the city began as a colonial outpost near the Ashley River. It was later relocated to its present site on the peninsula between the Ashley and Cooper rivers in 1680. Quickly, Charleston became one of the most significant ports and wealthiest cities in the American colonies, thriving on trade in rice, indigo, and later cotton. Much of that prosperity, however, was built on the backs of enslaved Africans, who were brought to the city in massive numbers. Gadsden’s Wharf became one of the busiest slave importation sites in North America, and by the mid-18th century, Charleston had a majority Black population, most of them enslaved.

As revolutionary fervor spread in the 1770s, Charleston played a central role in the struggle for American independence. Though it initially held out against British forces, the city fell in 1780 after a long siege, marking one of the worst American defeats of the Revolutionary War. The British occupation lasted until late 1782.

In the decades that followed, Charleston wealthy planters and merchants shaped the city’s culture and politics, even as tensions over slavery deepened. In 1822, Denmark Vesey, a formerly enslaved man and respected community leader, was accused of planning a major slave revolt. His execution, along with dozens of others, marked a turning point in the city’s repressive stance toward African Americans, both free and enslaved.

During the Civil War, Confederate forces fired on Fort Sumter in Charleston Harbor in 1861, igniting the war. The city became a target for Union forces and endured years of blockade and bombardment. By the war’s end in 1865, Charleston was physically devastated and economically broken.

During Reconstruction, the backlash against the formerly enslaved was fierce. By the late 19th century, Charleston was in decline, with its economy lagging and its infrastructure damaged. A powerful earthquake in 1886 only added to the city’s struggles.

Beginning in the early 20th century, local preservationists launched efforts to protect the city’s architecture and cultural heritage. Tourism slowly emerged as an economic engine, and by the late 20th century, Charleston had become known for its historic homes, cobblestone streets, and coastal beauty.

In more recent years, the city has faced new challenges and reckonings. The 2015 mass shooting at Emanuel AME Church, one of the oldest Black churches in the South, shocked the nation and led to renewed conversations about race, memory, and the legacy of the Confederacy. Statues have come down, museums have evolved, and Charleston has become a center for both cultural celebration and historical reflection.

The Architecture of Charleston

The city’s historic district, in particular, is a living museum of colonial, Georgian, Federal, and Victorian design. Charleston is known for its well-preserved buildings and any building over 75 years old must adhere to the strict Board of Architectural Review (BAR) standards for modifications and renovations to buildings in historic districts.

One of the most striking features of Charleston’s architecture is the Charleston Single House. These narrow, one-room-wide homes are built to capture the cool ocean breeze, with large piazzas (side porches) running along the house’s length. The front door is often set at an angle to the street, opening onto a hallway that leads directly to the piazza, creating a unique layout that maximizes ventilation. This distinctive design symbolizes Charleston’s early adaptations to the hot, humid climate.

As we drive through The Battery, we’re surrounded by grand antebellum mansions with wide verandas, ornate ironwork, and intricate wood detailing. These historic homes, built in the 18th and early 19th centuries, often feature tall columns, large windows, and sweeping staircases. Many of the homes here are built in the Georgian and Adamesque styles, which emphasize symmetry and classical proportions.

The Federal Style is also typical in Charleston’s architecture, particularly in the design of many of its government buildings and homes. These structures often have brick facades with crisp lines, arched windows, and decorative elements such as dentil molding and fanlights above doors.

In neighborhoods like South of Broad, we see more Greek Revival and Italianate styles, often marked by grand columns and expansive front porches that invite social gatherings. These mansions typically feature marble floors, high ceilings, and elaborate moldings, reflecting the city’s wealth and influence in the 19th century. The Italianate homes here often have wide eaves with decorative brackets and large windows with rounded tops.

The Victorian era left a unique mark on Charleston’s streetscape, especially in the French Quarter and around King Street. Here, we find row houses with vibrant colors and ornamental ironwork. Elaborate cornices, detailed woodwork, and colorful facades add a playful charm to these buildings, starkly contrasting the formal elegance of earlier periods.

Charleston’s historic churches, like St. Michael’s Episcopal Church and St. Philip’s Church, showcase Georgian and Gothic Revival styles, with soaring steeples and detailed stonework. The city’s many churches were built with attention to both beauty and function, and their facades are often adorned with intricate carvings and stained-glass windows that catch sunlight and add to the city’s serene atmosphere.

As we drove past Hibernian Hall and the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon, we saw fine examples of Classical Revival and Colonial Revival styles. These buildings feature grand porticos, fluted columns, and large windows that give them a sense of grandeur and authority. These designs reflect Charleston’s importance as a major colonial port and a center of government.

Another important historical feature is Charleston’s City Wall, or The Walled City. Initially built in the 17th century to protect the city from invasion, the wall once encircled much of the early settlement. While much of the original wall has been lost to time and development, sections can still be seen today, particularly near the Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon.

We also see stunning examples of wrought ironwork throughout the city, particularly in gates, railings, and balconies. Charleston’s iconic iron gates, often crafted by skilled blacksmiths like Philip Simmons, add an intricate, artistic touch to the buildings they adorn.

Several disasters have affected architecture. The 1886 earthquake, estimated at a magnitude of 7.0, caused widespread destruction, and we were able to spot earthquake bolts—large metal rods running through the walls of older buildings, added to help stabilize them after the quake. The city’s low-lying coastal position makes it especially vulnerable to storm surges and flooding during hurricanes. In 1989, Hurricane Hugo made landfall just north of Charleston as a Category 4 storm. Flooding is a regular and ongoing challenge in Charleston because it is surrounded by rivers and built on marshland. What locals call “king tides,” when the moon’s gravitational pull causes unusually high tides, can flood downtown streets even on sunny days. Historically, fires were also a significant threat. In 1740, a massive fire destroyed more than 300 buildings in Charleston, including warehouses, shops, and residences. Another major blaze in 1838 consumed over 1,100 buildings—about one-fourth of the city.

The Brick Tavern

We were hungry after the carriage and bus tours so we stopped at the nearby Brick Tavern for lunch. There I had a BBQ Burger and Lisa got a Turkey Avacoda sandwich. It was a nice sports bar and the service was good.

Charleston Museum

When I bought the bus tour, I received discounted tickets for the Charleston Museum. The museum was conveniently located just across the street from the Visitor Center. Outside, there was a replica of a submarine used in the Civil War, which we learned was actually built from the memory of a 98-year-old veteran. The actual submarine had sunk in Charleston Harbor, and when it was later recovered, they discovered the replica was too large!

The Charleston Museum, often called “America’s First Museum,” was founded in 1773 and officially opened to the public in 1824. It was located in a modern building on one floor and had a wide-ranging collection that spanned natural history, decorative arts, weaponry, textiles, and Lowcountry cultural history. The permanent exhibits include everything from dinosaur fossils and taxidermy to 18th- and 19th-century furnishings, clothing, and tools. There’s an especially strong focus on Lowcountry history, with detailed exhibits on Charleston’s colonial beginnings, its role in the American Revolution, Slavery, the antebellum era, the Civil War, and Reconstruction.

Angel Tree

We then rushed to see the Angel Oak Tree on Johns Island. This tree is unfortunately in an area that is locked after 4:50 pm and because of traffic, we did not arrive until 4:51. Though I was not able to hug the tree, we were able to get a great look at this massive Southern live oak estimated to be 400–500 years old. It stands about 66 feet tall with a canopy spreading over 17,000 square feet. Its longest limb reaches 187 feet, and the trunk circumference is around 28 feet. The tree is named after the Angel family, but local folklore also links it to spirits of enslaved people.

Local Gullah-Geechee culture, rooted in the traditions of enslaved Africans brought to the Sea Islands, holds the tree in spiritual reverence. According to oral tradition and folklore, some believe the spirits of enslaved people inhabit or watch over the Angel Oak, appearing as angels around the tree.

After enjoying some time looking at the tree, we headed back to the camper for the evening.

Saturday, 12 April

Summerville

It was another beautiful day, though a bit cool—just 50 degrees when we woke up. Around 7:30 a.m., we headed about 20 minutes north to check out a local farmer’s market that had been recommended to us.

Established in the late 1700s, Summerville began as a summer retreat for Lowcountry residents escaping the heat and mosquitoes of the coast. Officially incorporated in 1847, it became known for its commitment to preserving nature, passing one of the nation’s first tree protection ordinances that same year. The town’s motto, “Sacra Pinus Esto” (“The Pine is Sacred”), reflects this legacy.

In 1899, the International Congress of Physicians recognized Summerville as one of the world’s best areas for treating lung and throat conditions—thanks to its dry, sandy climate and turpentine-rich pine air. Today, the town hosts the Flowertown Festival, South Carolina’s largest arts and crafts event, attracting around 200,000 visitors each spring. It also celebrates its title as the “Birthplace of Sweet Tea” with a lively Sweet Tea Festival every September, complete with tastings and Southern eats.

Farmers Market

The farmers market was set in the heart of historic downtown. It was a good-sized market with a wide variety of vendors—though notably, no food trucks. We arrived just before 8 a.m. and parked in a free garage conveniently located next to the market.

We enjoyed browsing the stalls and picked up boiled peanuts from “James Brown’s Famous Boiled Peanuts,” a chocolate chip bread loaf, and a pint of fresh strawberries. The produce stands had long lines, so we skipped those and instead grabbed egg and cheese croissants with coffee from a vendor offering seating nearby. We relaxed at a table and had a lovely chat with some friendly folks from New Jersey who now live in the area.

Talucci’s Bakery

After the market, we wandered through the nearby shopping district, which was closed to cars and full of charm. A long line outside Talucci’s Bakery caught our eye, so we asked a few people in the line about it. They raved about the authentic Italian pastries and fresh bread, so we joined the line and picked out four beautiful pastries to enjoy later.

We later learned the owner is a second-generation baker trained at the Baltimore International Culinary College. He creates all the pastries from scratch, and they truly looked like works of art. His wife and their eight children all help run the bakery.

Sweet Tea Capital

Next, we went on the hunt for the world’s largest glass of sweet tea, eventually finding it tucked away in an alley.

In the South, sweet tea is more than a drink—it’s a symbol of hospitality. Summerville embraces its title as the “Sweet Tea Capital of the World,” even trademarking it. The claim stems from a recipe found in an 1879 community cookbook believed to be one of the earliest mentions of sweet iced tea. Its proximity to the Charleston Tea Garden, the only large-scale commercial tea plantation in North America, adds weight to the claim.

To fully embrace its legacy, Summerville created “Mason,” a 15-foot-tall mason jar sculpture that holds over 2,500 gallons of sweet tea. It earned a Guinness World Record, sealing the town’s place in tea history.

After taking some photos with Mason, we headed off to Boone Hall Plantation.

Boone Hall Plantation

The area offered several plantation tours, each with unique highlights, making it difficult to choose just one during our limited time. Some boasted more original buildings, while others were notable for the crops they once produced—rice, cotton, or even brick. A few were known for their beautifully preserved gardens or grand homes. Some included a variety of guided experiences in the admission price, while others charged extra for those additions.

We ultimately chose Boone Hall Plantation because it is the oldest working plantation in the United States, and it appeared to offer a good variety of tours included with general admission. The plantation is also recognized for its dedication to preserving and interpreting African American history.

Founded in 1681, Boone Hall has continuously produced crops for over 320 years. It is perhaps most famous for its breathtaking Avenue of Oaks—a half-mile drive flanked by massive live oaks planted in 1743. This iconic path is a symbol of Southern heritage and is often described as one of the most spectacular entrances in the world.

We arrived mid-morning and had to park toward the back of the lot. A tractor-pulled wagon tour of the plantation was just about to begin nearby, so we hopped on. The ride took us through the current 738 acres of Boone Hall—once as large as 4,000 acres. We passed cultivated fields, wetlands, creeks, ponds, and landmarks like the Avenue of Oaks and the original slave cabins. Along the way, we saw the remnants of what was once the largest pecan farm in the country, now gone due to Hurricane Hugo, and we passed active U-pick strawberry fields bustling with visitors. A Strawberry Festival was also underway on the grounds. One memorable moment occurred when the wagon had to slow down for an alligator lounging on the warm road. Fortunately, it moved along without much fuss.

We then attended three presentations held at two different locations. The first was the Exploring the Gullah Culture program, delivered at an amphitheater at one end of the row of slave cabins. The presenter combined song with storytelling and language to explain the Gullah heritage. While much of it was engaging, she veered into a lengthy discussion on the value of herbal medicine, which felt a bit off-topic.

We then hurried to the opposite end of the cabin row for two more presentations—one about life as a slave on the plantation and another covering Boone Hall’s ownership history. The plantation’s story begins with a 470-acre land grant from Theophilus Patey to his daughter, Elizabeth, and her husband, Major John Boone, as a wedding gift. The Boone family maintained ownership for several generations. In 1811, the property was sold to the Horlbeck brothers, who developed a large-scale brick-making operation and expanded the agricultural fields to include crops like pecans. By the late 19th century, Boone Hall had become one of the country’s leading pecan producers. In 1935, Canadian Thomas Stone purchased the plantation during the Great Depression. He demolished the wooden house and built the current Colonial Revival brick mansion in 1936. Later owners included Georgian prince Dimitri Jorjadze and his wife Audrey Emery, who raised thoroughbred horses, and Dr. Henry Deas. In 1955, the McRae family acquired the estate and opened it to the public a year later.

The nine brick slave cabins were constructed between 1790 and 1810. Originally, Boone Hall had approximately 27 slave cabins, arranged in three groups of nine. The surviving nine cabins are believed to have housed house servants and skilled laborers, such as blacksmiths and carpenters. Each cabin measures approximately 12 feet by 30 feet, with gabled roofs, and features either plank or dirt floors and a simple fireplace with a brick hearth at the rear. Each cabin showcased a different theme, with audiovisual presentations and artifacts illuminating African American history. One cabin featured a sweetgrass basket weaver demonstrating and selling traditional handmade baskets. Archeology around the cabins has revealed more insight into how slaves lived, especially about how they supplemented the poor diet provided by their owners.

I visited the hospitality building between presentations to reserve a time slot for a house tour. After the presentations, we had about 45 minutes, so we strolled through the formal gardens on either side of the house’s front lawn. Dating back a century, these English-style gardens featured antique roses, seasonal flower beds, and carefully trimmed boxwood hedges. We wandered the brick walkways through the gardens, taking in the vibrant flowers and fragrant air.

The house tour included only the first floor, which featured a library, dining room, and a rear portico that led to a study. Though there were a few notable antiques, the most interesting part of the tour was hearing stories about the Stone and McRae families who once lived there. Photography was not allowed, helping to keep the tour moving smoothly.

Afterward, we stopped at the on-site Butterfly Café for a quick bite. I had a house-made egg salad sandwich, while Lisa went with a hot dog. Then, we visited the nearby butterfly conservatory, which didn’t have any butterflies but did contain a lovely variety of flowering plants. From there, we joined a short guided walkthrough of the stables. There were no horses in the stables, but we learned about the famous thoroughbred Princequillo, once stabled there by Prince Dimitri Jorjadze. Princequillo became one of the most influential sires in racing history, with descendants like Secretariat, Seattle Slew, A.P. Indy, and Cigar.

After all the timed tours were complete, we explored the gin house, which held a cotton gin and various historical displays. This building once served as temporary quarters while the mansion was being built and now serves as the hospitality center where we had previously booked our house tour.

We then went to the slave cabins and the Avenue of Oaks for a more leisurely visit. We took our time listening to the audiovisual presentations and exploring the various displays, which were all very insightful.

We concluded our visit by walking down to the Cotton Dock on the river. In the plantation’s early days, this tidal river was the primary means of transporting goods. The dock building was bustling with activity as staff prepared it for a wedding later that evening. From there, we enjoyed the serene views of the marshlands and boathouses.

By around 4 p.m., we felt we had experienced the best of what Boone Hall had to offer and decided it was time to head out—grateful for a full and meaningful day of history, culture, and beauty.

Charles Pinckney National Historic Site

Though not originally on our itinerary, we decided to drive a short distance down the road to the Charles Pinckney National Historic Site. This site preserves a portion of Snee Farm, the 18th-century plantation of Charles Pinckney. Charles Pinckney (1757–1824) was a significant figure in the founding of the United States. He served as a delegate to the Constitutional Convention and played a key role in drafting the Constitution. Snee Farm, acquired by his father in 1754, became Pinckney’s country estate and working plantation. He inherited it in 1782 and owned it until financial difficulties forced its sale in 1817.​

While none of the original structures from Pinckney’s era remain, the site includes an 1828 coastal cottage built by later owners, which serves as a visitor center and museum. Unfortunately, the house was closed for the season, and only the grounds were open.

We took a short stroll around the the outside of the house and read the various interpretive signs before deciding to head over to Fort Moultrie.

Fort Moultrie

The drive to Fort Moultrie took us 30 minutes, though it was just 10 miles away. Located on Sullivan’s Island, the fort was originally called Fort Sullivan. It was famously built from palmetto logs, which absorbed British cannon fire during the Battle of Sullivan’s Island on June 28, 1776. Under Colonel William Moultrie’s command, American forces successfully repelled the British assault, and in honor of his leadership, the fort was later renamed. That victory is still celebrated in South Carolina each year as “Carolina Day.”

Over the years, Fort Moultrie underwent several major reconstructions, with notable upgrades in 1798 and 1809. In the early days of the Civil War, Union Major Robert Anderson abandoned the fort for the stronger position at Fort Sumter. Confederate forces quickly took over Fort Moultrie and used it to bombard Fort Sumter, marking the start of the war. Throughout the conflict, it remained a key part of Charleston’s harbor defenses, withstanding repeated Union bombardments until the Confederates finally abandoned it in February 1865.

Fort Moultrie continued to serve as part of America’s coastal defense system through both World Wars, evolving with the times and adapting to new military technology. It was officially decommissioned in 1947 after 171 years of active use.

We arrived at the fort just as it was closing, so unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside. However, we took advantage of the time to walk around the perimeter and explore the historic grounds. We saw remnants of Civil War-era fortifications along the outer walls, including cannons still mounted and aimed toward Fort Sumter across the harbor. Inside the fort stood a large, post-Civil War watchtower, alongside a black-painted battery that once housed more modern artillery. As we made our way around, we came upon a Civil War re-enactment group gathering just outside the walls, adding a touch of living history to the scene.

We also made our way down to the beach, where we had a clear view of Fort Sumter, which stood prominently in the middle of the harbor entrance. We also saw a large number of dead jelly fish on the beach.

Before leaving, we walked down to Battery Jasper, a defensive artillery battery, but there wasn’t much there apart from a few interpretive signs. In hindsight, I wish we had integrated a visit to the fort and its visitor center into our itinerary.

We then headed back to the camper, about 24 miles away. Once we were back, we had dinner and finished the evening with some of the pastries we’d picked up in Summerville that morning.

Sunday, 13 April

We had a leisurely morning and enjoyed some pancakes with the strawberries that we had gotten at the Farmers Market. Around 10:30 we headed to our overnight stop just northwest of Columbia.