Monday, 14 September
Drive to Lake Scott State Park
We chose to take State Highway 4 instead of the interstate on our way to the next park. A significant portion of this route is part of the Prairie Trail Scenic Highway. The road was mostly straight, with few curves, and lined with post-rock fences and expansive prairie landscapes. Sumac appeared to be a common crop along the way, its deep red hue adding a striking contrast to the scenery. About halfway, we stopped in La Crosse for gas, where I made a quick sandwich in the trailer. Lisa had also packed some extra snacks in the truck for the trip.
Historic Lake Scott State Park
After miles of flat land, we were pleasantly surprised to arrive at the park and find large limestone bluffs towering above us. Above the park office, perched on one of the bluffs, were two silhouettes of Native Americans, adding to the scenic beauty. As we drove down through a canyon nestled between these bluffs, we discovered that the lake was quite small. In fact, the only motorized boats allowed were fishing boats.
Our campsite was a hard-packed dirt site right across from the lake, offering a fantastic view. We quickly set up and took a moment to relax with a beer, enjoying the peaceful scene. However, we soon realized that the tree on our site obstructed the awning from extending. While sitting and unwinding, we noticed an abundance of flies in the area. Armed with fly swatters, we began swatting away, killing so many that we quickly started a small pile. At one point, I managed to swat five with a single swing after they had gathered around something I’d left on my tray table.
After finishing our beer, we set out to explore the park. Despite its small size, it had two campgrounds with utilities and several primitive camping areas scattered throughout. We stopped at a few benches along the lake, one on a small peninsula that jutted into the water, offering a peaceful view. We also visited a natural spring, where a charming little bridge spanned. The park was compact, so it didn’t take us long to circle the entire lake and see everything it had to offer.
El Cuartelejo
The park was undeniably scenic, with breathtaking views and peaceful surroundings, especially since it was a weekday and mostly empty. One of the park’s notable attractions was the ruins of El Cuartelejo, a historic pueblo believed to have been built by the Taos Indians in the mid-1600s as they fled Spanish influence. The pueblo was abandoned when the Spanish forced the Taos back to New Mexico. Though small, with only seven rooms, it holds significant historical importance as the northernmost pueblo in North America. Today, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, offering a glimpse into the region’s rich Native American heritage.
Evening
We returned to the camper around 5 pm, and Lisa began preparing dinner with chicken, asparagus, and peppers. Meanwhile, I took some time to clean up our site, picking up the abundance of cigarette butts, plastic bottle caps, beer caps, pieces of glass, and other small litter scattered around. Unfortunately, the flies were so persistent that we ended up eating inside. Since we had great internet reception, we spent the rest of the evening relaxing, watching the latest videos from our favorite YouTube campers.
After dinner, we decided to drive over to the east side of the lake and watch the sunset over the bluffs.
Afterward, we settled down back inside the trailer for the rest of the evening.
Tuesday, 15 September
Morning
The morning was chilly, but I was comfortable in a sweatshirt.
Western Vistas Scenic Byway
After a breakfast of blueberry pancakes, we decided to tour some of the sites a couple of miles away.
Our first destination was Mount Sunflower, the highest point in Kansas, about 115 miles away. We hoped to find some interesting things to do along the way. About 15 minutes into our drive, we stopped at a kiosk that described the history and landmarks around the area. After reviewing the information, we added a couple more stops to our list. Unfortunately, one of the big attractions that looked interesting—the Butterfield Stagecoach Museum—had closed after Labor Day. Drats!
Oakley
Our next stop was Oakley, where we visited the Doughboy statue outside the City Administrative Offices. This WWI memorial featured a sailor statue atop a pillar, with the names of those who died in WWI inscribed on it. It was a fitting tribute and definitely worth a quick photo.
Afterward, we decided to pick up some supplies at the local Dollar General and fuel up at Casey’s. While Dollar General had a nationwide mask policy, at least one employee and most of the customers were not wearing masks. The employee was so friendly that she kept trying to engage us in conversation and get close, which was a bit uncomfortable.
Leaving Oakley, we continued our journey down the Western Vistas Scenic Byway on Highway 40.
Fort Wallace Cemetery
While driving along, we noticed a sign directing us to a historical marker to the left. We quickly turned onto a dirt road but didn’t find anything immediately. Just as we were about to turn around, I spotted an unlabeled green area on the GPS about a mile further down the road, so I convinced Lisa to keep going.
This led us to the site of Fort Wallace and its cemetery. Although nothing remained of the fort, several informational kiosks explained its layout and history. The soldiers buried in the cemetery were relocated to Fort Leavenworth, but the civilian graves from when the fort was active were still there. The cemetery was still in use, as there were numerous modern graves.
The older civilian graves were marked with weathered wooden headstones, some hand-carved, and others stenciled, detailing the person’s name, birth, death, cause of death, and burial date. The headstones appeared to have been made long after the deaths, likely as replacements, and were protected by metal frames to preserve them.
There was also a monument, sheltered in a metal shed, honoring the soldiers who served at Fort Wallace.
Mount Sunflower
Our next stop was Mount Sunflower. It was 13 miles down a dirt road off Highway 40. Though the terrain had some gentle hills, there was no indication that you were heading to the highest point in Kansas.
At the top of a large hill, we found a small fenced-off area adorned with metal and stone decorations. Signs marked the spot as Mount Sunflower, the highest point in Kansas. There was also a large mailbox containing a guest register and various small items left behind by visitors.
Goodland
It was around 2 pm when we decided to have lunch, which Lisa had thoughtfully packed for us. After enjoying our meal, we set our sights on Goodland, about an hour’s drive away, where a giant Van Gogh painting, Three Flowers, stood on an 80-foot easel. The most direct route took us down several more stretches of dirt roads, allowing us to appreciate even more of the expansive, flat Western Kansas landscape.
After some time, we connected with Highway 27, part of the Land and Sky Scenic Byway, which brought us into Goodland. The town, though small, was proud of its unique attraction, and it wasn’t long before we spotted the towering 80-foot easel holding a giant version of Van Gogh’s vibrant Three Flowers painting.
We took our time walking around the park, snapping photos, and exploring the details of the sculpture, marveling at its size and beauty. We took a moment to sign the guest book, leaving our mark as fellow travelers.
Once we’d finished our visit, we headed east on the scenic Old Highway 24 and then turned south on Highway 84 to Oakley, Kansas.
Oakley
In Oakley, we stopped to admire the towering 16-foot statue of William Cody, aka “Buffalo Bill,” standing next to an American bison. Weighing in at 9,000 pounds of bronze, the statue commemorates Cody’s 1868 buffalo hunting contest with William Comstock, which Cody won 69 to 46, earning the iconic nickname.
Situated outside The Buffalo Bill Cultural Center, the statue marks the spot where the contest took place. It honors Cody’s larger-than-life legacy, capturing details like his rifle “Lucretia” and his mustang Brigham, modeled after a Utah Mustang.
We couldn’t resist placing our #ShryockRocks in the bison’s hooves, adding a personal touch to this memorable stop.
We then got some gas before heading over to the Dairy King for some ice cream. Lisa got a peanut butter crunch cyclone, and I got a chocolate/strawberry shake, which we ate while continuing to our campground, about 30 minutes away.
As we got near the campground, we searched for the bison that we had seen earlier. All we ended up finding was some fat cows.
Battle Of Punished Women’s Fork
We decided to visit the site of the last Indian battle in Kansas at Wounded Woman Fork, just five minutes south of the park. A memorial marks the spot of the final clash between the cavalry and the Native Americans in Kansas. This battle occurred as the Northern Cheyenne, trying to return to their homelands from the reservations in Oklahoma, were pursued by the U.S. Army.
An information kiosk at the entrance offered flyers explaining the battle’s context and the Cheyenne’s struggle. As we walked the battlefield and imagined the events that transpired there, the experience was humbling and sobering. The real highlight was the network of trails weaving through a small canyon, which the Cheyenne used for defensive positions. One trail led to a small cave that sheltered the elderly, women, and children of the group, while higher ground featured firing pits strategically dug to protect those fighting.
The name “Wounded Woman Fork” originates from the events surrounding the battle and specifically refers to a tragic incident involving a Cheyenne woman. According to historical accounts, during the battle, a Cheyenne woman, known as “Wounded Woman,” was severely wounded while trying to escape with her people. She was one of many forced to endure the difficult journey from the Oklahoma reservations back toward their ancestral lands.
The location, a small stream known as Wounded Woman Fork, became a significant marker in the Cheyenne people’s struggle for survival. The name serves as a solemn reminder of the hardship, suffering, and determination of the Cheyenne as they attempted to return home under harsh circumstances, ultimately facing military forces in the final conflict in Kansas between the Northern Cheyenne and the U.S. Cavalry.
Evening
When we got back to the trailer and unpacked, I found that the bed of the truck was full of road dust.
While Lisa made us a light dinner of BLT sandwiches, I tried to get most of the dust swept out. We had dinner outside which was nice as we enjoyed our great view of the lake, and we were not bothered by flies hardly at all. We enjoyed some Mike Hard Lemonades until the bugs chased us inside where we watched some YouTubes until bedtime.
Wednesday, 16 September
Morning
Today I woke up early trying to get the sunrise with my Akaso camera. Unfortunately, I set the time to elapse too high, but I still enjoyed the sunrise. Lisa joined me just before the sun crested the buttes across the lake. It also felt really cold and my fingers were numb but my cell phone said it was 66 degrees.
Lisa cooked us up a nice breakfast of eggs and toast, with fresh guacamole. Afterward, we took off for Little Jerusalem Badlands State Park, the newest Kansas state park created in 2018.
Bison
While we driving out of the park, we found the bison herd that we had seen when we first came into the park. We of course had to stop and take some pictures.
Little Jeruselum Badlands State Park
Little Jerusalem Badlands State Park spans 333 acres, but its standout feature is a mile-long stretch of eroded Niobrara Chalk that has sculpted stunning geological formations. The park offers two designated trails that loop through these formations, providing visitors with the best views of the unique landscape. Due to the fragile nature of the area, access beyond these trails is restricted unless accompanied by a park ranger, which occurs just a few times a month. The formations themselves are striking, with sharp, jagged outcrops and dramatic cliffs that showcase the power of erosion over time, making it a must-see for those interested in geology and natural beauty.
Lunch
Afterward, we returned to Lake Scott State Park and stopped at the dump station to wash off the dust that had accumulated on the back of the truck. Lisa also took the opportunity to scrub the bugs off the truck’s grill. Once we were cleaned up, we enjoyed lunch at the picnic tables near the large spring that feeds the lake. With our bellies full, we decided to hike up to a high bluff that offered a stunning view of the entire park.
Steele Monument
At the top of the high bluff, we found a small shelter and a monument dedicated to the Steele family, who once owned the land before it became a state park. While several steep paths led up to the summit, I spotted a gentler route that seemed much easier to hike. Lisa made it about halfway up before the incline became too steep for her. She opted for a less strenuous path that led to a bench on a nearby hillside, where she could relax and enjoy a scenic view of the valley below.
I continued up the bluff, and the view from the top was nothing short of spectacular. From the summit, I had a sweeping panorama of the canyon and the park below, which was truly breathtaking. After capturing some photos and soaking in the incredible scenery, I made my way back down and rejoined Lisa. Together, we hiked back to the truck, both feeling grateful for the peaceful hike and stunning views.
When we returned to the trailer, we decided to launch the kayak. The temperature was in the 70s with a light breeze, making it perfect for a relaxing paddle. Being quite marshy, the lake led us to choose the boat ramp for our launch. However, the ramp was covered in moss and slippery, making it a bit tricky to get the kayak into the water. Once we were afloat, the small size of the lake and the gentle wind made it easy to navigate. We spent the time drifting, relaxing, and exploring the peaceful surroundings, enjoying the calm and quiet of the water.
When we got back, we took some showers and relaxed before Lisa cooked us up some dinner of pork chops and sweet potatoes.
Thursday, 17 September
It was 47 degrees when I woke up so I decided to drink my coffee inside, and even turned on our trailer’s fireplace. Before we left around 11 am, it was already in the 60s.
On the way out of the park, we saw some turkeys.
As we headed north, we ran into some trucks carrying wind turbine blades that had to take a sharp turn. It was interesting seeing them make the turn.
Another thing I saw was a lot of corn that looked like it was left to die in the fields. I learned that they were actually letting the corn mature and dry on the stalk. I also learned that less than 1% of the corn that is harvested is the immature and moist corn that I see in the grocery. The dried corn is called “feed corn” or “button corn” and its most common use is fuel and animal feed.