Wednesday, 18 Sept
Teton’s Flagg Ranch to Yellowstone East Entrance
Today, we drove from Flagg Ranch to Greybull, WY, at the base of the Big Horn Mountains. To get there, we had to drive north through the Yellowstone South Entrance to the East Entrance. It had snowed heavily in Yellowstone NP the night before, and we learned later that the East Entrance had been closed temporarily during the evening.
The route skirted the western and northern shores of Yellowstone Lake, the largest high-elevation lake in North America at 7,733 feet. As we approached the East Entrance, the road ascended through Sylvan Pass, reaching elevations over 8,500 feet. We then dropped 1,579 feet seven miles from the summit to the East Entrance. The streets were very slushy and slippery in spots, and there were plenty of tight turns and sheer drops, so we had to drive slowly and carefully through this mountainous section.
Shoshone River Canyon
From Yellowstone’s East Entrance, the road closely follows the North Fork of the Shoshone River for 50 miles, descending approximately 2,000 feet. This stretch, known as the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway, offers spectacular views as it meanders through the Shoshone National Forest. The route cuts through the majestic Absaroka Mountains, their rugged peaks, spires, and pinnacles standing as a testament to ancient volcanic activity. These dramatic formations rise steeply on either side, creating a striking contrast with the lush river valley below.
As we followed the river, the landscape continually shifted. Dense, forested areas gave way to open meadows sprinkled with colorful wildflowers. Towering cliffs and volcanic rock formations grew more imposing with every turn, their jagged edges and deep crevices shaped by millennia of wind and water erosion. The river itself, sparkling and clear, carved its way gracefully through the valley, offering serene views that perfectly complemented the rugged grandeur of the surrounding terrain.
Wapiti Ranger Station
We stopped at the Wapiti Ranger Station, a site rich in history and significance. Built in 1903, it holds the distinction of being the oldest continuously used ranger station in the United States Forest Service.
The original 1903 log structure, constructed with hand-hewn timbers, now stands amidst a cluster of more modern Forest Service buildings, surrounded by a traditional rail fence that evokes the rustic charm of the era. The historic building remains a proud reminder of the Forest Service’s roots and the early efforts to protect and manage America’s wilderness.
Shoshone National Forest, established in 1891, is itself a landmark in American conservation history. It was the first designated national forest in the United States, setting the stage for a nationwide system of protected forest lands. The forest encompasses a diverse landscape of rugged peaks, dense woodlands, and clear rivers, making it an essential part of the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway experience.
Buffalo Bill Reservoir
As we approached Cody, the landscape was dominated by the expansive Buffalo Bill Reservoir, its calm waters reflecting the surrounding cliffs and mountains. This impressive reservoir is a vital part of the region’s history and development, made possible by the construction of the Buffalo Bill Dam in 1910. At the time of its completion, the dam was the tallest in the world, standing an awe-inspiring 325 feet high. In 1992, a 25-foot extension was added to the structure, further enhancing its capacity and functionality.
The dam was built as part of a bold plan to provide hydroelectric power and irrigation to the Bighorn Basin, transforming it from a semi-arid, sagebrush-dominated plain into fertile agricultural land. Thanks to this engineering marvel, the area became productive, supporting farming and ranching communities and contributing to the growth and prosperity of Cody and its surroundings.
As we neared the town, the road took us through several tunnels carved through the rugged Absaroka Mountains, each offering brief, framed glimpses of the dramatic landscape. The Buffalo Bill Dam Tunnel, the most notable of these, is Wyoming’s longest tunnel, stretching approximately 3,000 feet. This engineering feat is as impressive as the dam itself, providing a vital connection between the reservoir and Cody.
The Journey from Cody. WY, to Greybull, WY
Cody is a small tourist city of about 10,000 people at the western edge of the Bighorn Basin, a depression surrounded by the Big Horn, Owl Creek, Bridger, and Absaroka ranges. The Shoshone River flows through Cody in a canyon.
From Cody, we left the foothills of the Absaroka Mountains and crossed Wyoming’s Bighorn Basin. This basin featured wide-open spaces with flatlands and gently rolling hills. Sagebrush and sparse vegetation dominated the landscape as we moved away from the mountains.
The highway roughly followed the path of the Shoshone River, with occasional views of the river winding through the basin. The area featured sandy soil, sagebrush, and small farms, with the Bighorn Mountains forming a prominent skyline. Striking geological formations, including outcroppings of sandstone, shale, and red rock, stood out against the more subdued colors of the plains. The Big Horn mountains formed a prominent skyline to our front.
Greybull
Greybull, a quaint town of approximately 2,000 residents, is situated at the confluence of the Shoshone and Big Horn Rivers, making it a key point in the Bighorn Basin’s geography and history. Surrounded by small farms producing alfalfa, hay, and sugar beets, the town serves as a quiet yet vital agricultural hub in this semi-arid region.
The town’s name is rooted in local legend. According to one account, a Native American chief gifted a white buffalo—a rare and sacred animal—as a gesture of peace to settlers. The buffalo, often referred to as a “grey bull” due to its unique coloring, became emblematic of the area and inspired the town’s name.
It was established in the early 20th century as a railroad town. The railroad spurred the growth of the town and brought settlers who worked in the industries that flourished during that time, such as agriculture, livestock, and mining. Greybull also became a supply center for the surrounding ranching communities and played a pivotal role in distributing goods and produce across the region.
Mining contributed significantly to Greybull’s early prosperity. The nearby hills were rich with resources like bentonite, an absorbent clay with a variety of industrial uses. Even today, bentonite mining remains an important part of the local economy, with the region being one of the world’s leading sources of the mineral.
Greybull KOA
Our campground was near the Bighorn River and had level, concrete RV sites and included a patio with a table and chairs, a fire pit, and a charcoal BBQ. We had a deluxe site with more space, a garden swing, and a propane barbeque. It had a pool, but it was closed for the summer.
Ten Sleep
After setting up our camper, we drove to Ten Sleep Brewery in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, about 50 miles away. I had read several good reviews about the brewery, and it looked like a great way to see the countryside.
The road between Greybull and Ten Sleep traversed the eastern edge of the Bighorn Basin, a semi-arid region featuring sagebrush-dominated prairies and occasional farmland supported by irrigation from nearby rivers. Colorful cliffs and mesas were prominent, and the red rock layers of the Chugwater Formation provided a striking contrast to the dry plains. The road had many frost heaves, so we drove slower than average.
Ten Sleep is a small town of about 300 people. It was an American Indian rest stop, so called because it was 10 days’ travel, or “10 sleeps,” from Fort Laramie (southeast), Yellowstone National Park (west-northwest), and the Indian Agency on the Stillwater River in Montana (northwest).
The microbrewery was backed up again by a big red cliff and a large outdoor area with a stage on an old truck for live music. Several posters proclaiming past events were displayed. The brewery was inside a barn with a gift shop, bar, and tables. We sat under a mounted deer head with three antlers. A newspaper article below it provided the story of how it was shot locally with a bow.
After setting up our camper, we decided to venture to Ten Sleep Brewery in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, about 50 miles from Greybull. I had read numerous glowing reviews about the brewery, and since it was the closest brewery, it seemed like a perfect opportunity to explore the countryside while sampling some local craft beer.
The drive to Ten Sleep traversed the eastern edge of the Bighorn Basin, a semi-arid region characterized by its sweeping sagebrush prairies interspersed with patches of irrigated farmland. The landscape was punctuated by dramatic geological features, including colorful cliffs, mesas, and the vibrant red rock layers of the Chugwater Formation. These formations, created over millions of years, stood in stark contrast to the muted tones of the plains. Although the scenery was beautiful, the road was riddled with frost heaves, requiring us to slow down and take our time.
Ten Sleep, a town with a population of roughly 300 people, carries a rich history. The name “Ten Sleep” comes from its days as an American Indian rest stop, marking a midpoint of 10 days’ travel—or “10 sleeps”—from significant landmarks: Fort Laramie to the southeast, Yellowstone National Park to the west-northwest, and the Indian Agency on the Stillwater River in Montana to the northwest.
The Ten Sleep Brewery is a gem in this tiny town, nestled against the backdrop of a towering red cliff. The outdoor area was expansive, with a large stage—built on an old truck—used for live music performances. Posters and memorabilia from past events were displayed throughout the space, showcasing the brewery’s role as a local gathering spot.
The brewery itself was housed in a rustic barn that exuded a welcoming, laid-back atmosphere. Inside, we found a gift shop, bar, and tables where locals and visitors alike gathered. One quirky highlight of our visit was sitting beneath a mounted deer head with three antlers. Below the mount, a framed newspaper article recounted the story of how the deer was locally hunted with a bow, adding a unique piece of local lore to our visit.
The beer, the stories, and the stunning surroundings made our visit to Ten Sleep Brewery a memorable and quintessentially Wyoming experience.
Thursday, 19 Sept
Greybull
This morning, we set off to explore the Big Horn Mountains but made a quick stop at the nearby rest area near the Museum of Flight and Aerial Firefighting at the South Big Horn County Airport. The museum’s outdoor display included several fascinating retired firefighting planes and other historical aircraft. Among the highlights were the PB4Y-2 Privateer, a modified B-24 Liberator bomber used for reconnaissance and firefighting, and the Douglas DC-4 and DC-7 planes, reconfigured to carry massive loads of water or fire retardant.
Unfortunately, the museum wasn’t open yet, and we were eager to get on the road toward the Big Horn Mountains, so we didn’t have the chance to explore the museum. The rest stop had a weathered sign providing information about fossil digs in the Big Horn Basin, and there was a small herd of cows.
US-310
The next day, we explored the Bighorn Mountains. We headed north along US-14/US-310 through the Bighorn Basin country, moving from agricultural plains through striking badlands with the rugged backdrop of the Bighorn Mountains.
As we traveled east on US-14/US-310 from Greybull, the land shifted to a more desert-like badlands terrain characterized by striking rock formations, rolling hills, and red and orange sedimentary rock areas. This part of the drive is known as the Red Gulch Badlands, an area rich in ancient sedimentary layers that were once the floor of an inland sea.
Continuing along the route, we passed through sagebrush steppe terrain typical of the Bighorn Basin. This open, flat landscape was dotted with sagebrush, grasses, and occasional rocky bluffs, creating a high-desert feel. The area was dry and sparsely vegetated, giving a sense of remoteness and open space, with big skies above and unobstructed views across the plains.
As we approached Lovell, the terrain softened into low-lying foothills and river valleys with a mix of open plains and irrigated farmland. The Shoshone River flowed nearby, bringing the land a greener, more fertile feel. Near Lovell, we saw more farms and ranches and cottonwood trees along river corridors, creating a transition from the arid basin to a more cultivated area.
Bighorn National Recreational Area
In Lovell, we continued north on Hwy 13 toward the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, which covers over 120,000 acres in northern Wyoming and southern Montana. Bighorn Lake stretches over 70 miles through the canyon and is accessible from several points, including Barry’s Landing and Horseshoe Bend Marina.
Bighorn Canyon is home to diverse wildlife, including bighorn sheep, black bears, mule deer, mountain lions, wild horses, and bird species like eagles and hawks. Adjacent to the recreation area, the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range is home to one of North America’s wild herds of horses.
Horseshoe Bend Marina
Our first stop was at the Horseshoe Bend Marina, which serves as a gateway to Bighorn Lake, the long and narrow reservoir winding through the dramatic landscape of Bighorn Canyon. The marina had a boat launch, multiple camping areas, and a small sandy beach.
What truly sets this spot apart is the towering red cliffs and striking rock formations surrounding the area.
Devil’s Canyon Overlook
Our journey to Devil’s Canyon Overlook began with an unexpected treat—a small flock of Bighorn Sheep grazing near the roadside. Spotting these sheep, even though none had the iconic massive curved horns, helped solidify that we were in the “Big Horn” mountains.
As we arrived at the overlook, the grandeur of Devil’s Canyon unfolded before us. The view was nothing short of breathtaking. From the vantage point, we could peer down into the 1,000-foot-deep canyon carved by the relentless flow of the Bighorn River over millennia. The sheer vertical walls of the canyon were layered with shades of red, orange, and tan, each band a testament to millions of years of geological history.
The winding river at the canyon floor, with its serpentine path through the cliffs, had an interesting brownish-green tint.
Looking out, we could also see vast expanses of wilderness stretching toward the horizon, with rocky outcrops, patches of juniper and sagebrush, and distant mountains framing the scene. Informational plaques at the overlook provided insights into the geology and history of the area.
Two Eagles Interpretive Trail
A short loop trail wound through a field used for nearly 1,200 years by ancestors of the Crow, Shoshone, and other native people as a campsite. Almost 140 Tipi rings, or stone circles, varying in size from twelve to twenty and more feet in diameter, were used to weigh the lower edges of lodge skins to prevent the structure from being blown over by a stiff wind. When the camp was moved, they were rolled off the leather. Sometimes, an inner ring could be detected—evidence of an insulating liner—and a southeast-oriented doorway that indicated that the tipi was put up during a winter camp.
Radiocarbon dating of charcoal found in cooking fires shows that tipi rings at Two Eagles and in most of Bighorn Canyon date to the last 1,000 years or so, though some elsewhere in the recreation area are 2,000 years old.
One informational sign pointed out that before the National Historic Preservation Act (NHPA) of 1966, sites like this were not protected during construction projects, and artifact collectors stole important pieces of prehistory.
Ewing-Snell Historic Ranch Site
Our next stop was the Ewing-Snell Historic Ranch. This site, which dates back to the late 19th century, offered us a glimpse into the lives of early settlers in the rugged landscape of the American West. It has been preserved to showcase the history of ranching, homesteading, and survival in the Bighorn Canyon area.
The site includes original structures such as the log cabin, barn, and outbuildings used by early ranchers. The ranch was initially established by Erastus T. Ewing, a homesteader who settled here in the late 1890s. Later, the Snell family took over the property. Informative signs provided context about the Ewing and Snell families, their daily lives, and how they lived in such a remote area.
The ranch is in a picturesque part of Bighorn Canyon, with sweeping views of the surrounding cliffs and canyon walls. The scenic backdrop provides a sense of the landscape that early settlers faced and how they relied on it for sustenance.
Barry’s Landing Marina
Barry’s Landing provides a boat launch that gives access to Bighorn Lake, a long, narrow reservoir stretching through Bighorn Canyon. The canyon walls that line Bighorn Lake rise impressively around Barry’s Landing, creating a breathtaking setting.
Beyond Barry’s Landing, the paved road through Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area gives way to a dirt road. We decided to retrace our steps, driving back down Highway 13 toward the US-14 Alternate, also known as Medicine Wheel Passage. This scenic highway promised another set of stunning views as we transitioned from the canyon’s rugged grandeur to the high-altitude beauty of the mountains.
Medicine Wheel Passageway
US-14 ALT, the Medicine Wheel Passageway, is a scenic byway in Wyoming that offers a beautiful, rugged journey through the northern Bighorn Mountains. It is a more mountainous, steep, and scenic alternative to US-14. The route is known for its high elevations, challenging switchbacks, and expansive views.
As we began your journey, we crossed the Bighorn Basin’s desert-like plains, where the land is dry, sparsely vegetated with sagebrush, and mostly flat.
As we left the basin and headed east on US-14 ALT, the road rapidly became steep and mountainous. It then began a series of sharp switchbacks that ascend the mountainside, offering sweeping views back toward the Bighorn Basin below.
This portion of the highway features dramatic elevation changes, with rocky cliffs and towering ridges on either side. As we climbed, the surrounding vegetation transitioned from sagebrush and shrubs to dense pine forests. The Bighorn National Forest surrounds the highway.
Nearing the top, the terrain opens into high-elevation alpine meadows surrounded by thick spruce, fir, and lodgepole pine forests. We found several herds of cows grazing in these meadows, but no fences keeping them off the roads.
The elevation on US-14 ALT reaches over 9,000 feet, with cool temperatures and occasional snowpack.
The byway is named after the Medicine Wheel, an ancient stone structure sacred to Native American tribes. Accessible via a short hike from US-14 ALT, the Medicine Wheel site is in a wide-open, grassy meadow with 360-degree mountain views. Due to time and the trail’s difficulty, we decided to skip the hike.
Continuing east, the terrain includes unique granite outcroppings and rock formations throughout the alpine landscape. These formations add a rugged, dramatic touch to the scenery and create interesting viewpoints along the drive. Some sections are flanked by towering rock cliffs, giving the highway a canyon-like feel in places.
After passing the Medicine Wheel, US-14 ALT gradually descends through lush pine forests and mixed woodlands, heading toward Burgess Junction. Rolling hills, dense forests, and occasional views of distant peaks and valleys mark the terrain here.
As you approach Burgess Junction, the terrain flattens slightly, transitioning to a mix of forested land and open meadows.
Big Horn Scenic Byway
At Burgess Junction, we turned toward Greybull on US-14, the Big Horn Scenic Byway.
Heading west, US-14 begins a gradual descent through Bighorn National Forest. The forest includes dense conifer forests, with trees interspersed with open meadows and clear mountain streams.
As we continued the descent, several pullouts and scenic overlooks provided expansive views of the Bighorn Basin below and the Big Horn River valley.
Tornado Observation Site
In June 1959, a tornado roared over the south rim of the canyon directly before you. Its path was along Granite Creek to your left and through what used to be Granite Creek Campground. One person was killed. The twister ripped up timber and laid it out in the pattern you see now.
While tornadoes usually occur on the plains, several have visited the Big Horn Mountains. Blowing down mountain timber at 10,000 feet above sea level, these tornadoes are among the highest on record. The Forest Service salvaged part of the downed timber, but the steepness made retrieving trees from the upper slopes difficult. A road at the bottom of the blowdown area enabled clearing and reseeding. Most of the scar has revegetated naturally.
Shell Falls
Shell Falls is a spectacular 120-foot waterfall cascading down a narrow gorge in Shell Canyon. The falls were easily accessible, with viewing platforms and interpretive signs about the geology and ecology of the area.
Old Shell Tavern and Kitchen
After Shell Falls, US 14 descended into the Bighorn Basin. As we exited the forested canyon, the landscape began to open up, transitioning to more open, arid plains dotted with sagebrush. This section starkly contrasts the mountainous terrain above with wide-open spaces, flatter lands, and expansive skies that give a sense of Wyoming’s vastness.
We stopped at the Old Shell Tavern and Kitchen for dinner in Shell. The tavern has a cozy, Western-style ambiance with wooden interiors and rustic decor. We ordered and ate dinner in the nicely landscaped exterior area with picnic tables.
Devils Kitchen
As we drove back toward Greybull, we were surrounded by dry, desert-like plains and farmland, an evident change from the alpine scenery of the mountains.
We decided to stop briefly at the Devil’s Kitchen, about 5 miles from Greybull. We drove a few miles down a dirt/gravel road through a desert-like environment to an eroded gulley.
Erosion has sculpted the area with red, orange, gray, and white sedimentary rock layers into a landscape of hoodoos, cliffs, and spires resembling something from another planet.
Friday, 20 Sept
Worland
We decided to drive south along US-20 through the Bighorn Basin. This route offers a journey through high desert landscapes, rolling hills, and open farmland, with the dramatic backdrop of the Bighorn Mountains to the east and the Cloud Peak Wilderness in the distance.
The highway follows the Bighorn River, which winds along the valley floor. The view of the river’s lush riparian zones against the desert landscape is scenic. Farmland, cattle ranches, and wide-open fields spread across the valley, offering a view into Wyoming’s agricultural lifestyle. Fields of sugar beets, alfalfa, and barley were common.
Moving south, we encountered sections of badlands terrain, with rugged hills and cliffs displaying layers of red, tan, and gray rock formations. This high desert area is primarily dominated by sagebrush and scrubland, with views of distant mountains. As we approached Worland, the landscape flattened into open plains and fields growing crops like sugar beets and alfalfa.
While at a stop light, we saw a Peter Toth “Whispering Giant,” so we parked to get some pictures.
We then crossed the street to Pioneer Park to explore some statues there. A sign nearby declared that the Pioneer Park is a tribute to its builders, “from the bell towers that call out in memory of those gone before to the tribute artwork of “The Canal Digger,” celebrating the hard work and dedication it took to bring water to this valley so that it might grow. The Pioneer Woman reminds us this was a partnership built by strong people of both genders.”
Thermopolis
As we departed Worland, the landscape shifted to the characteristic dry plains and sagebrush-dotted expanses of Wyoming’s high desert. Low, rolling hills broke the flat horizon, their muted tones blending with the pale blues and greens of the prairie. The highway traced the meandering path of the Bighorn River, a lifeline of water that carved its way through the arid terrain. Along the riverbanks, riparian zones flourished with vibrant greenery, including clusters of cottonwood trees whose broad leaves shimmered in the breeze.
As we traveled further south, the valley began to narrow, and the hills flanking the road gradually became steeper, rockier, and more dramatic. Exposed layers of sedimentary rock displayed earthy reds, browns, and tans, hinting at the region’s ancient geological history. The winding road revealed glimpses of the Bighorn River cutting through this rugged landscape.
Before entering the city itself, we stopped at an overlook of Hot Springs State Park. From this vantage point, we could see the vibrant geothermal activity that has made Thermopolis famous. The mineral-rich waters of the park’s hot springs, the largest in the world, flowed into terraces that glistened with deposits of white, orange, and green. Steam rose gently from the springs, giving the area an almost mystical quality. The iconic Swinging Bridge stretched over the Bighorn River, inviting visitors to explore the park’s unique features more closely.
Thermopolis itself is a charming small town that owes much of its character and history to these natural hot springs. The town’s name, derived from the Greek words “thermos” (hot) and “polis” (city), reflects its status as a hub of geothermal wonders. In addition to its hot springs, Thermopolis is known for the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, which houses one of the largest and most impressive dinosaur fossil collections in the world. .
Hot Springs State Park
We immediately drove into Hot Springs State Park when we arrived in Thermopolis. Entry to the state park was free thanks to an agreement with the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes when the state acquired the springs.
Established in 1897, it is the oldest state park in Wyoming and home to the Big Spring, a large, colorful hot spring that flows at about 127°F. Water from Big Spring supplies several pools within the park, and the mineral-rich water is believed to have therapeutic benefits.
We first drove to the Teepee Fountain. This unusual fountain was built in 1909 to vent the area’s hot mineral water. Over time, the hot water flowing over the structure has deposited layers of minerals, mainly calcite, creating a unique and colorful formation. We saw water trickling down the face of the fountain, indicating that it was still growing.
We then drove past the park’s two private pools, Hellie’s TePee Pools and the Star Plunge, which offered hot tubs, slides, steam rooms, and kids’ pools. We stopped at the State Bath House, which provided free access to indoor and outdoor soaking pools. Once we signed in at the front desk and were informed that there were 20-minute time limits, we changed into our swimsuits in the locker room and entered the outdoor pool. The water was a comfortable 104°F, and we enjoyed the relaxing experience.
Afterward, we drove to the park, admiring the nice picnic areas shaded by tall cottonwood trees. The mineral terraces of the hot springs provide a scenic backdrop, and the sound of the river adds to the relaxing atmosphere. There were several dinosaur fiberglass sculptures scattered about promoting the local Dinosaur Museum.
We then drove into a separate fenced area in the northeastern part of the park home to a small bison herd.
Dairyland
For lunch, we ate at a local favorite fast food restaurant, where we split a chicken sandwich and had some milkshakes.
Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway
We followed US-20/WY 789 south of Thermopolis through the Wind River Canyon. This stunning canyon cuts through the Owl Creek Mountains and is carved by the Wind River (which becomes the Bighorn River downstream of the canyon). The road winds alongside the river, with steep canyon walls towering up to 2,500 feet. The views were incredible, with sharp bends in the canyon and multiple pull-offs for taking photos or enjoying the scenery.
The canyon’s rock walls expose nearly 3 billion years of Earth’s geological history, with ancient granite and gneiss at the bottom and younger layers toward the top. Roadside signs indicate the geological periods of the rock layers. The Wind River runs through the canyon with several stretches of rapids.
The Wind River flows into the Boysen Reservoir at the canyon’s southern entrance. We turned around in a parking lot overlooking Boysen Dam and returned to Thermopolis back through the canyon, which was just as beautiful the second time.
Antelope and Sugar Beets
On our drive back to Worland, we noticed several groups of antelope grazing peacefully in the vast sugar beet fields that stretched across the landscape. The fields, rich with green leaves and ripe with harvest, made it easy to spot these large herds.
The Cloud Peak Skyway Scenic Byway
Leaving Worland, we turned onto US-16, heading toward the Bighorn Mountains. This route is considered less challenging over the Bighorn Mountains than US-14 but still very scenic.
The landscape immediately transitioned from the Bighorn Basin’s flat, gently rolling terrain to agricultural land dotted with sagebrush, grassy fields, and farms growing alfalfa, corn, and sugar beets. The area is also home to open-range cattle grazing.
As we continued east, the terrain grew more rugged, shifting from open plains to the rocky foothills of the Bighorn Mountains. The landscape changed with increasing elevation, the hills becoming steeper, and desert vegetation giving way to juniper and pine trees. The road began winding more sharply as it traced the contours of the foothills, offering panoramic views of the valley below at scenic pullouts.
We then entered Bighorn National Forest, where the high desert quickly transformed into a densely forested landscape. The dense stands of lodgepole pines, fir, and aspen created a dramatic contrast to the desert below, and the cooler temperatures provided a welcome change. As we climbed higher, the road wound through rocky cliffs and meadows, showcasing the region’s rugged beauty.
We passed Meadowlark Lake, a serene alpine lake nestled in the pines, where we stopped to see a stone memorial honoring the men of Company 1811 CCC Camp F-35-W, who tragically died in the Shoshone Forest Fire on August 21, 1937. Another interpretive panel also recognized Company 841 of the CCC, which constructed the nearby dam in 1936.
Tensleep Creek ran alongside parts of the road, adding to the lush landscape, as we continued our ascent. The route’s elevation increased steadily as we neared Powder River Pass (9,666 feet), the highest point on US-16.
At the pass, the landscape opened into expansive mountain meadows surrounded by towering peaks. The harsh climate, with its shallow soil and extreme weather, makes tree growth scarce, and instead, fragile alpine tundra plants cling to the thin soil.
It was getting late, so we decided to turn around at this point and head back to our camper.
Drive Home
In Ten Sleep, we took WY-31, which loosely parallels the Nowood River Valley, where the landscape shifts to rolling hills, ranch lands, and high desert. The terrain is open, with occasional cliffs and unique rock formations rising on either side of the valley. Narrow bands of cottonwood trees and green vegetation grow near the Nowood River, contrasting the dry hills around it.
North of Hyattville, the road follows the river as it winds through more rugged terrain, with colorful rock formations, sandstone cliffs, and broad valley floors.
North of Hyattville, WY-31 merges into WY-30. The road continued to follow the Nowood River toward Basin and Greybull. The landscape here opens up into broader plains, with sections of farmland and open-range land.
After crossing the Nowood River valley, the road meets US Highway 16/20 at Basin, and from there, we headed north to reach Greybull. This final stretch along US 16/20 is relatively flat, taking us through the Bighorn Basin’s agricultural lands, with irrigation systems feeding fields of alfalfa, hay, and other crops supported by the Nowood and Bighorn Rivers.