Thursday, 27 June
The Journey from Havre to Great Falls
The weather was near perfect, with clear skies, a comfortable high of 70°F, and an overnight low of 51°F. Rain wasn’t a concern, but strong winds were in the forecast, expected to reach 32 mph in the afternoon with gusts up to 49 mph. Since our next destination was only two hours away, we decided to delay our departure and use the morning to run errands. A quick trip to Walmart allowed us to stock up on supplies and kill some time before hitting the road.
We departed around 11 a.m., heading for Great Falls, Montana, a drive of 115 miles.
Our drive from Havre to Great Falls, Montana, along US Highway 87, took us through a striking transition from the vast Great Plains to the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. We began surrounded by expansive prairie landscapes, where gently rolling hills and endless wheat fields stretched to the horizon. Clusters occasionally broke the flat, open terrain of wildflowers and patches of rugged beauty.
As we traveled, the land became more varied, with scattered buttes, ridges, and deep coulees adding texture to the scenery. Near riverbeds, the rugged Missouri River Breaks carved striking valleys into the plains, creating dramatic contrasts in the otherwise smooth landscape.
As we approached Great Falls, the flat plains gave way to rolling hills, and the majestic outline of the Rockies became more pronounced. The land leveled into river valleys and plateaus in the city, with the Missouri River cutting through bluffs.
Great Falls, MT
Great Falls, the third-largest city in Montana with a population of over 60,000, sits just east of the Rocky Mountains. Historically, it was the largest city in the state until Billings overtook it in 1970, followed by Missoula in 2000. Great Falls is a popular tourist destination in Montana, attracting over one million overnight visitors annually.
The city is beautifully bisected by the Missouri River, which gives it a unique charm. Its name comes from five dramatic waterfalls located north and east of the city along the river. These natural wonders played a significant role in history. During the Lewis and Clark Expedition of 1805–1806, the explorers faced the challenge of portaging around a 10-mile stretch of the Missouri River to bypass the falls, which took them 31 arduous days. Today, three of these waterfalls—Black Eagle, Rainbow, and the Great Falls—are part of a network of hydroelectric dams.
Great Falls RV Park
We arrived at the Great Falls RV Park around 1 p.m., greeted by a large park boasting 140 RV sites. The sites were spacious, gravel, and mostly level, with good spacing and a well-maintained lawn in between, kept green by sprinklers. Long-term campers were situated in the back along the tree line, while transient campers, like us, were in the middle area, devoid of trees. The park’s proximity to the trains, highway, and airport meant there was a significant amount of noise.
We were assigned to a spot at the end of a row reserved for our caravan’s vehicles. At check-in, the staff helpfully pointed out the site of our wagonmaster.
After setting up our camper, we took off to explore Great Falls, intending to contact our wagonmaster later.
Sight and Sound Park
We took a scenic drive to the Missouri River and stopped at the unique Sight and Sound Park near River Drive and 1st Street North. The park featured intriguing sculptures and murals, each telling its own story, but the undeniable star of the show was Rainboffalo. This whimsical creation wasn’t just another painted bison statue. It was a fantastical hybrid—a giant fish body adorned with vibrant scales, seamlessly merging into a bison’s head and hooved feet. The playful design made it a true standout and a favorite for photos.
Nearby, a pedestrian bridge stretched across the Missouri River, connecting to the River’s Edge Trail, a 60-mile paved path that weaves through the city and along the river’s banks. The river below was in full force, its swift currents churning and glistening in the sunlight. Though the area featured a few informational kiosks about the region’s history and ecology, many sadly faded from years of exposure to the elements, their stories now ghosted by time.
Just across the street, the vivid colors of the 1915 Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Passenger Depot caught our eye. Its distinctive architecture, complete with brick detailing and a touch of vintage charm, stood out as a reminder of Great Falls’ bustling railroad history.
Missouri River Drive
We continued our drive along the Missouri River, following River Drive and stopping at several viewpoints showcasing the river’s interaction with the area’s hydroelectric infrastructure and rich history.
Caboose Park
Our first stop was Caboose Park, a small riverside park with a historic red caboose, which is a tribute to Great Falls’ railroad heritage. The caboose, once a part of the city’s thriving railway system, is a reminder of the railroad’s pivotal role in the region’s development. The Great Falls Railroad Depot, built in 1914, was once a key hub for transporting goods, including materials for constructing nearby dams. The park provided a peaceful spot to relax and enjoy the view of the Missouri River flowing steadily past. Walking around the caboose helped us imagine when trains would travel through the area, connecting Great Falls to the rest of the country.
Black Eagle Dam
Next, we stopped at Black Eagle Dam, located just upstream of Black Eagle Falls, the uppermost of the five falls for which Great Falls is named. Black Eagle Dam, completed in 1927, generates 14.5 megawatts of electricity, harnessing the natural drop of the river at the falls. Water cascaded over the dam and down the rocky terrain of Black Eagle Falls, with Black Eagle Memorial Island sitting below, offering additional views of the falls.
Rainbow Dam
Our next destination was Rainbow Dam, one of the most iconic of the five hydroelectric dams in the area. Completed in 1910, the dam has a capacity of 35 megawatts. During our visit, only a small amount of water flowed over the dam, revealing the breathtaking 45-foot drop of Rainbow Falls below, with its red, rocky terrain.
We also saw the Montana Central Railroad Bridge across the Missouri River just above Rainbow Dam. Built in the early 1900s, the bridge was an essential part of the Montana Central Railroad, facilitating the transportation of materials and goods to the area, particularly for constructing the nearby hydroelectric dams. The steel truss bridge remains a functional railroad crossing and a historical landmark, symbolizing the city’s industrial growth.
While driving through the area, we couldn’t help but notice the large “GF” logo painted on the hillside above Rainbow Dam. This prominent symbol, “Great Falls,” was created as a local landmark representing civic pride. The logo is a remnant of the area’s mining and industrial past, marking the landscape as a sign of the community’s enduring identity. It’s a striking and visible marker when approaching the city, particularly from this vantage point along the river.
Montana Veterans Memorial
We turned around at Giant Springs State Park and walked toward Black Eagle Brewery, pausing briefly at Veterans Park.
The Montana Veterans Memorial at the park is a moving tribute to the state’s veterans, with over 7,400 tiles inscribed with the names of living and deceased service members. At the heart of the memorial stands the imposing Warrior Angel statue, which rises 12 feet high. With a solemn expression, the angel holds the dog tags of those who perished in battle, symbolizing their sacrifice. The statue stands upon a grindstone, representing the defeat of evil. In a poignant gesture, the angel extends one arm and releases five doves, each symbolizing one of the five branches of the U.S. military and offering a message of hope for peace. The memorial offers a deeply moving reflection on the bravery and loss experienced by veterans, and it provides a quiet place for reflection and remembrance.
Black Eagle Brewery
After turning around at Giant Springs State Park, we headed to Black Eagle Brewery, hoping to grab a bite. The brewery was somewhat difficult to find, as it was tucked in the back of a building with no exterior sign to indicate its location. However, once inside, we were greeted by a cozy atmosphere and decided to try a flight of their craft beers. The selection included a rich, malty Naughty Irish Red, a smooth and light Smeltermen Blonde, a juicy and aromatic Frigg-n-Hazy, and a flavorful Mocha Porter with a distinct coffee-chocolate finish.
Although we enjoyed the beers, they didn’t serve food, so we decided to stop at McDonald’s on the way back to the camper.
Friday, 28 June
It was one of those surprisingly cool days. Overnight, temperatures dipped to the low 40s, and the highs barely hit 60. The wind was relentless, with gusts reaching 45 mph, leaving us feeling chilled to the bone!
Around 8:30, we headed out to Walmart to get our truck’s oil changed. The wait was excruciatingly long—over three hours—because they misplaced our oil filler cap. When they finally informed us of the delay, they apologized and offered to cover the cost of a replacement cap, but we would have to get it ourselves, and they would reimburse us. We called the local Ford dealership, and although they didn’t have any in stock, they kindly ordered one for us.
After that, we returned to the camper, where we cleaned, organized, and tackled minor repairs. The tailgunner added caravan stickers to both the front and back of our camper and the back of the truck.
The tailgunner and the wagonmaster stopped by later to check on us and ensure we had no questions. They also provided us with an Adventure Caravan backpack, a name badge, a lined windbreaker, and updated calendars.
Saturday, 29 June
It was 41 degrees overnight, and the day was warmer than yesterday, with a high of 73. The winds were also slightly lower, at 15 mph, with gusts up to 22 mph. This was a welcome relief because the high wind sometimes sounded like a club beating against the outside of the trailer.
Great Falls Farmers Market
The overnight temperature dropped to 41 degrees, but the day warmed up to a comfortable 73, a pleasant change from the previous day. The winds also calmed down a bit, blowing at a steady 15 mph with gusts reaching 22 mph. This was a welcome relief, as the previous night’s high winds had thumped against the camper all night.
We headed downtown to explore the Great Falls Farmers Market in the morning. The market, open every Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. during the summer, spanned several blocks and featured over 100 vendors. It was a vibrant and bustling place, with a mix of local farmers, artisans, and food trucks. You could find everything from fresh produce and homemade baked goods to handmade soaps, jewelry, and locally crafted items. Live music added to the lively atmosphere, and the scent of freshly brewed coffee and grilled food filled the air.
While we couldn’t bring fresh produce across the border, we treated ourselves to a refreshing fruit and yogurt cup from the Mountain Berry Bowls food truck.
Gibson Park
We left the RV park around 8:30 and headed to Gibson Park, a historic site located along the Missouri River. The park features beautiful flower gardens, playgrounds, basketball courts, and a large pond home to ducks, geese, and swans.
One of the park’s highlights is the historic Vinegar Jones Cabin, built in 1884. It is the only remaining structure from Great Falls’ first year. Josiah Peeper constructed the cabin, which is believed to be the area’s first permanent home. In 1890, Robert Vaughn, known as “Vinegar Jones,” purchased the cabin and either lived in it or rented it out until his death in 1931. Inside, visitors can see 1880s-era furnishings and displays about the founding of Great Falls. The area around the cabin was filled with ground squirrels, and it was entertaining to watch them scurry about and pop in and out of their holes.
We took a stroll around the park and pond, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere despite the strong odor of animal waste. Many people were feeding the waterfowl, adding to the lively scene.
The park also features several statues, including one of Paris Gibson, the founder of Great Falls, a replica of the Statue of Liberty, and a statue of Captain John Mullan. Captain Mullan is best known for building the Mullan Road, the first wagon road across the Rocky Mountains, connecting Fort Benton, Montana, to Walla Walla, Washington, between 1859 and 1860.
Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center
We then continued driving along the Missouri River to the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center. This museum overlooks the Missouri River and is located within Giant Springs State Park. Operated by the US Forest Service, this 25,000-square-foot building featured various exhibits chronicling the journey of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Highlights included a permanent exhibit hall, a 158-seat theater, an education room for hands-on activities, and a retail store. The center also features a statue honoring Seaman, the Newfoundland dog that accompanied the expedition.
We asked the helpful volunteers several questions while we were there and watched a movie called “Confluence of Time and Courage,” which is a 30-minute documentary. It details the trials and triumphs of the Lewis and Clark expedition as they journeyed through the region, focusing on their encounters with the rugged terrain, indigenous tribes, and the challenges they faced along the Missouri River.
Giant Springs State Park
We then drove a half mile to the Main Entrance of the Giant Springs State Park. This state park stretches across 14 miles of Missouri River shoreline and is anchored by one of the largest freshwater springs in the United States—Giant Springs.
We first walked over to the Giant Springs, which releases an impressive 156 million gallons of water. The water emerges from a subterranean aquifer that takes up to 3,000 years to reach the surface. The water is crystal clear and maintains a constant temperature of 54°F year-round, making it ideal for supporting various aquatic life forms. A concrete sidewalk encircles Giant Springs, providing visitors easy access to the spring’s vibrant pools and scenic views. The sidewalk offered us various vantage points to admire the water flowing from the spring and cascading down a rocky shoreline. The water tumbles over smooth rocks, creating small, gentle rapids before continuing its journey toward the Missouri River.
A short 201-foot stretch of water, known as the Roe River, flows from the springs before joining the Missouri River. The Roe River is famous for holding the Guinness World Record as the shortest river in the world. This unique park feature makes it an interesting stop for those curious about unusual natural landmarks.
We then walked over to the fish hatchery visitor center, which consisted of a small hallway of displays and a window where we could look into the hatchery. The hatchery, managed by the Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks Department, has operated since 1924. Though we could not enter the hatchery, we could peer into the area containing the raceways or rearing tanks where the trout are raised. The hatchery uses the spring’s constant water flow to fill raceways, raising trout for release into nearby waters. The consistent water temperature provides a stable environment, ideal for raising fish. Even though we could not enter the hatchery, we walked around a fenced viewing pond where visitors could feed the fish.
The park also features several scenic spots for picnicking and relaxing by the water. Well-maintained trails take visitors through the park’s varied landscapes, including dense forests and open meadows, offering stunning views of the river and the surrounding mountains.
Big Sands Casino Cowboy Muffler Man
We then drove into town to see the quirky Big Sands Casino Cowboy Muffler Man, also known as Big John, at the corner of 11th Ave. S. and 24th St. S. Big John is a towering 22-foot-tall fiberglass statue of a cowboy that stands with his hands extended downward as if about to draw his pistols—although he has none. Originally standing in Jamestown, North Dakota, where he was known as “Jesse Jamestown” or “Angle of the Dangle” due to his unique hand positioning, Big John was moved to Great Falls in 1999 and has been a fixture at Big John’s Casino ever since.
Black Eagle Memorial Island
We then drove to Black Eagle Memorial Island, a scenic park downstream of Black Eagle Falls. This peaceful island, accessible by a pedestrian bridge, offers a quiet retreat in the heart of Great Falls. It sits amidst the natural beauty of the Missouri River, surrounded by the rushing waters of Black Eagle Falls, which creates a dramatic backdrop for the park. The island is known for its lush greenery, well-maintained walking paths, and stunning views of the river and falls.
A sidewalk to the viewing area on the dam side of the island gave us closer views of the Black Eagle Dam and the power plant. A half-mile pebble-rock loop trail went to the other end of the island, where we saw the rushing water of the Missouri River.
Ryan Dam
Ryan Dam, located about 10 miles downstream from Great Falls, required a scenic but rugged drive. Leaving Great Falls, we followed Highway 87 east for several miles before turning onto Ryan Dam Road, which transitioned into a gravel road for the final stretch. The terrain along the way was a mix of rolling hills and open prairie dotted with occasional clusters of trees. The landscape became more dramatic as we approached the Missouri River, with the river carving through a rocky gorge.
The dam, constructed in 1915 by the Montana Power Company, is a run-of-river hydroelectric facility that generates power without creating a large reservoir. Ryan Dam was impressive at 1,336 feet long and 61 feet high. Its reservoir stretches 7 miles upstream and has a modest storage capacity of 5,000 acre-feet, ensuring the river flows naturally without major disruptions.
Adjacent to the dam, we explored Ryan Island Park, a peaceful and scenic spot accessed by crossing a narrow suspension bridge. Walking across the gently swaying bridge was a unique experience, offering stunning views of the cascading falls below the dam. The park featured picnic shelters, tables, and well-maintained paths, making it a perfect place to relax and enjoy the scenery. The backdrop of the dam and the Missouri River added a dramatic touch to the natural surroundings.
While there, we saw a wedding being prepared at the park, with chairs for the ceremony and festive decorations enhancing the picturesque setting. Just up the road, a clubhouse appeared ready to host the reception, providing a charming venue with views of the river and surrounding landscape.
Morony Dam
Leaving Ryan Dam, we continued our journey to Morony Dam, located about 10 miles further downstream along the Missouri River. The drive began by retracing our route on Ryan Dam Road, transitioning back to Highway 87 before veering onto Morony Dam Road. The terrain between the two dams featured rolling prairie, with open grasslands stretching to the horizon, punctuated by occasional rocky outcrops. As we approached Morony Dam, the landscape grew more rugged, with deeper cuts in the earth where the Missouri River carved through the plains.
Morony Dam, constructed between 1928 and 1930, spans 883 feet and rises 94 feet high. Its purpose was to generate electricity for the Anaconda Copper Company’s zinc refinery in Great Falls, reflecting the region’s industrial ties to mining and resource processing. The dam is surrounded by a mixture of rocky bluffs and gentle riverbanks, creating a unique juxtaposition of industrial utility and natural beauty.
The area holds historical significance, near where the Lewis and Clark Expedition camped in 1805 during their exploration of the Missouri River. Looking out over the river, it was easy to imagine the explorers navigating the same waters. However, they would have encountered an untamed landscape rather than the dams and reservoirs we see today.
The reservoir created by Morony Dam is smaller than some others in the area but still provides a striking visual contrast to the rolling plains.
Sunday, 30 June
It was a beautiful day with a daytime high of 71 degrees. We spent most of the day cleaning and preparing the camper for our trip to Alaska.
We attended an Orientation & Get Acquainted Social at 3 pm where the caravan leaders passed out the milepost, our badges, and our trip logs. They served cheese and crackers as they showed us how to use the trip log.
Monday, 1 July
Laundry
It was another gorgeous day in Great Falls, slightly warmer than before, with a high of 77 degrees. It was also our final day in the city, and we were eager for the next leg of our journey.
We decided to take the morning to catch up on some errands, starting with laundry. I dropped Lisa off at the Falls Laundry Center on my way to Bison Ford to pick up a replacement oil filler cap for the truck. I picked up the part and installed it on the truck. I then headed to Walmart, where they reimbursed me for the cost of the cap and added a $25 gift certificate as an apology for the inconvenience.
With that task done, I returned to the laundromat and helped Lisa fold the freshly cleaned laundry. We then brought it back to the camper and stowed it away.
We set out again in search of a liquor store to stock up on beer for the road. Our quest took a bit longer than expected, as several stores we tried were closed. Eventually, we found what we needed at the Lido Bar and Casino.
Fords Drive-In
After finishing our errands, we decided to indulge in lunch at Ford’s Drive-In, a nostalgic treasure in Great Falls. This cash-only drive-in restaurant has been a beloved local institution since 1963, serving up timeless fast-food classics.
We ordered a hamburger, a chicken sandwich, and a couple of shakes, then settled at one of the outdoor picnic tables. When our order was ready, they brought it out to us, and we savored our meal while soaking in the retro drive-in ambiance. It was a slice of Great Falls history, and we were glad we had made the stop.
Fast Car Wash
After lunch, we decided to give the truck a much-needed wash. Guided by strong Google reviews, we headed to the Fast Car Wash, which had a unique and efficient setup that stood out from typical car washes.
Unlike most places where vacuuming comes at the end, this wash started with a dedicated vacuum station as soon as we pulled in. We parked the truck and cleaned the interior, tackling the dirt and debris from our travels. While we cleaned, a staff member approached to take our payment and handed us a damp washrag, a thoughtful touch that allowed us to wipe down the dashboard, door panels, and other surfaces.
Once the interior was refreshed, we drove into the automated car wash. High-pressure jets and spinning brushes efficiently stripped away the layers of grime and dust from the truck’s exterior. As we exited, a team of staff members awaited us, carefully hand-drying the truck with soft towels to ensure a spotless, streak-free finish.
Welcome Dinner
That afternoon, the caravan leaders hosted a lively Welcome Dinner at the campground clubhouse, bringing the caravan together for good food and fun. The meal featured a delicious barbecue. It was a great opportunity to relax and mingle with fellow travelers.
The highlight of the evening was a spirited raffle that kept everyone on their toes. Various Adventure Caravan swag items were up for grabs. The organizers added an entertaining twist to the raffle: winners could claim a new, unknown prize or “steal” a previously won item from another participant. This rule turned the event into a friendly game of strategy and humor, with plenty of laughs as prizes changed hands.
We set our sights on winning one of the practical and stylish umbrellas, which we thought would be perfect for unexpected weather during the trip. Unfortunately, we ended up with an Adventure Caravan ball cap.
The dinner and raffle created a warm, festive atmosphere that brought the group closer together, setting the tone for the exciting journey ahead.