Saturday, Aug 3
The Journey from Denali to Anchorage
I felt under the weather, and our COVID test kit said I had COVID-19. Several other members of our group had reported having COVID also.
Denali’s high temperature was 56 degrees, and it rained most of the day with low-hanging clouds. This was our last chance to see the peaks of Denali, but it wouldn’t happen. Our next stop was Anchorage, 244 miles south, and the weather did not look any better there.
We followed AK-3 most of the way. We initially followed the Nenana River Valley with its rolling hills, dense forests of spruce, birch, and aspen trees, and the winding Nenana River. At mile 51, we drove through Broad Pass, one of the highest points on the Parks Highway at an elevation of about 2,400 feet. As you descend from Broad Pass, the terrain transitions to the Talkeetna Mountains, with rugged peaks and dense forests.
At Mile 70, we pulled over to see the Hurricane Gulch Bridge. This 558-foot bridge spans a gulch 254 feet below. We could not walk out on the bridge, but we got a good view of the deep gorge from the pull-off on the south side of it.
Further south, we entered the Susitna River Valley, a wide and fertile area with lush vegetation, wetlands, and meandering rivers. Approaching Anchorage, we traveled through the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, characterized by flat to gently rolling terrain, farmland, and scenic Chugach and Talkeetna Mountains vistas.
We then drove through the busy city of Wasilla and turned on AK-1 toward Anchorage. The rest of the drive became more urban as we crossed the Knik River and followed the Knik Arm south. We drove through the cities of Chugiak and Eagle River before reaching Anchorage.
Golden Nugget Camper Park
Our campground for the next few days was the Golden Nugget Camper Park. It was large, with 215 sites. The area around the campground had many homeless people, so there was a visible security presence. The park is open all year, so several old full-time trailers with their usual junk around them.
Sunday, Aug 4
Today, Lisa went on a motorcoach tour of Anchorage while I wimped out and stayed home recovering from COVID-19. She tested herself, and the test showed negative, though she decided to wear a mask during the tour.
Alaska Wild Berry Products
The tour started with a stop at the Alaska Wild Berry Products store. The company was founded in 1946 by Kenneth and Hazel Heath, who started making jams and jellies from Alaskan berries. Over the years, they expanded their product line to include chocolates and other Alaskan delicacies.
Visitors can look into the kitchen where the products are made. The factory store features a 20-foot melted chocolate waterfall.
Ship Creek & ULU Factory
The motorcoach next stopped at the ULU Factory near Fish Creek.
Here, they took a personal tour of the factory and saw the entire process of making an ulu, from blade creation to handle assembly and packaging. The factory has an extensive gift shop with ulu knives, cutting bowls, and other locally made products.
Afterward, they walked along Fish Creek, well-known for its salmon runs. Several fishermen were fishing. A representative train trestle pedestrian bridge allowed visitors to look down the creek. The headquarters of the Alaskan Railroad was nearby.
Humpy’s Restaurant
The tour stopped at the popular Humpy’s Restaurant for lunch. It had a nice outdoor patio.
Lake Hood Seaplane Base
The tour then drove by the Lake Hood Seaplane Base which is the busiest seaplane base in the world, handling an average of 190 flights per day, It has three seaplane landing areas and a gravel runway. Originally, Lake Hood and Lake Spenard were separate lakes, but in the 1970s, a canal was dredged between them to create seaplane takeoff and taxi lanes.
Earthquake Park & Tony Knowles Coastal Walk
The motorcoach then drove past Earthquake Park, commemorating the devastating 1964 Alaska Earthquake. The earthquake measured 9.2 on the Richter scale and was the most powerful earthquake ever recorded in North America. The park has become overgrown, making it challenging to see some evidence of the tectonic upheaval.
The tour guide stopped at a rest area nearby along the Tony Knowles Coastal Walk. The viewpoint provided a nice northern view of the entrance of the Knik Arm, and Denali would be visible on a clear day. A crude marine mammal observation tower was on the coastline.
Monday, Aug 5
COVID
Lisa was now showing signs of COVID-19, so we decided to visit an Urgent Care facility and get some drugs. It took a few phone calls to find one that accepted our insurance. They confirmed our COVID-19, gave us a prescription for antibiotics, and recommended some anti-congestion medications. After returning to Urgent Care to have them resend the prescription, we picked everything up at the local Walgreens.
Arctic Roadrunner
We then decided to go up to the Artic Roadrunner for lunch.
Arctic Roadrunner has been serving burgers, specialty sandwiches, and hand-dipped milkshakes since 1964. It began as a trailer before expanding into two brick-and-mortar restaurants, but the smaller location closed after the owner died in 2017.
The restaurant’s exterior resembles a large cabin with carved wooden animals embedded into the roof’s eaves and a large totem pole flanking the restaurant’s left side. Inside, the seating was a mixture of booths and tables with a fireplace in the main dining area. The decor is chock-full of Alaskan charm. The wood beams are painted with Alaska Native images, and eclectic pieces like moose antlers, dog sleds, and trophy mounts are scattered throughout. Photos of national and local celebrities share wall and ceiling space alongside pictures of long-time customers.
We ordered food at a traditional burger fast food counter, and they only took cash, which I was luckily prepared for. We then took our food outside to the wonderful seating area near Campbell Creek. Walkers, runners, and bicyclists pass by on the adjacent Campbell Creek trail while kayakers, rafters, and stand-up paddleboarders float in the water. Several children were splashing each other on the banks. There was enough distance between tables that we did not have any worries about having our masks off.
Turnagain Arm
We then headed south on AK-1, which follows the scenic Turnagain Arm toward Whittier, a charming town about 60 miles away.
Turnagain Arm is one of the two narrow branches at the north end of Cook Inlet, with Knik Arm being the other. The name “Turnagain Arm” dates back to the 1778 voyage of British explorer James Cook, who was forced to “turn again” when the waterway did not lead to the fabled Northwest Passage, as he had hoped.
As we drove along the Turnagain Arm, we were struck by the changing tides. The exposed mudflats were fascinating to observe, with low tide expected in about an hour or two (at 3:29 p.m.). We stopped at several turnoffs along the highway to take in the expansive view, watching the water slowly recede from the shoreline. On the opposite side of the arm, the rugged Kenai Mountains stood tall and majestic, their snow-capped peaks contrasting beautifully with the vast mudflats below.
Portage Lake
We turned onto Portage Glacier Road, winding through the dramatic Portage Valley, where steep mountainsides rise on both sides. The road followed the meandering path of Portage Creek, which flows from Portage Lake down to Turnagain Arm. The landscape was a blend of dense forests, wetlands, and numerous streams and small lakes, all framed by towering peaks.
As we neared Portage Lake, a stunning glacial lake nestled in the valley, we were struck by its deep blue waters. The lake takes its name from the Portage Glacier that once stretched to its southern shore. However, the glacier has receded significantly since the 1990s, and today, it is no longer visible from the road. We caught sight of a large blue iceberg floating in the water, a piece of the glacier that had calved and drifted from its parent. Surrounding the lake, we could see several other glaciers clinging to the mountainsides. Among them were the Burns Glacier and the Shakespeare Glacier, all glistening in the sunlight as they flowed from the surrounding peaks.
Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel
To get to Whittier, we had to pass through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, North America’s longest combined vehicle-railroad tunnel. Constructed during World War II, the tunnel was crucial for transporting military supplies. It’s 2.5 miles long and uses jet turbine ventilation to clear exhaust fumes, as the air needs to be refreshed between vehicle and train passages.
The tunnel is only wide enough for one-way traffic, so the direction alternates every half hour. We could enter Whittier at the bottom of the hour (at the 1/2-hour mark), and traffic leaving Whittier is scheduled for the top of the hour.
When we reached the tunnel gate, we were told we had just missed the traffic going into Whittier. So, we decided to backtrack, visit the Portage Lake Visitor Center, and return at the bottom of the hour to catch the next chance to go through.
Begich, Boggs Visitor Center
The Begich Boggs Visitor Center is situated on the western shore of Portage Lake, nestled on the terminal moraine left behind by Portage Glacier in 1914. Although the center is small, it offers a variety of interactive exhibits that give us insight into the geology, wildlife, and history of the Portage Valley. While Portage Glacier is no longer visible from the visitor center, we were still treated to breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
One of the highlights of our visit was the theater, where we watched the film Retreat and Renewal: Stories from Alaska’s Chugach National Forest. The film gave us a deeper understanding of the area’s natural beauty and historical significance, helping us appreciate the stunning landscape we were exploring even more.
Whittier
We returned in time to buy a ticket and join the line as it was released to enter the tunnel. Even though there was only enough space for one lane of vehicle traffic and a single train track, I did not feel cramped. It was lit, but the atmosphere inside was still somewhat eerie due to its length and the enclosed space. We could hear the jet turbines clearing our exhaust fumes as we drove through the tunnel to maintain air quality.
Whittier is a fascinating small town with a rich history and unique geography. Most of the residents live in the Begich Towers Condominium. This 14-story building houses apartments, a post office, a general store, a police station, a hospital, and even a heated indoor pool. Next to it stands a condemned second condominium of the same size, a reminder of the town’s complex past.
Whittier’s origins go back to World War II when it was developed as a military facility called Camp Sullivan. The U.S. Army chose this remote location for its strategic importance, nestled at the head of Passage Canal, a fjord in the Chugach Mountains, surrounded by stunning coastal terrain. The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel was built to connect Whittier to the rest of the state, allowing transportation of supplies and personnel. Initially, the tunnel was a military-only route, but Whittier was transformed into a civilian town after the war.
The town is geographically unique, sitting on a narrow strip of land between the Chugach Range’s steep mountains and Prince William Sound’s waters. This location makes Whittier one of the most isolated communities in Alaska, with most of the town’s landmass surrounded by water and mountains. The high, rugged peaks surrounding the city are often capped with snow and glaciers, adding to the dramatic landscape. Waterfalls cascaded down from these glaciers everywhere we looked, creating an awe-inspiring natural scene.
Whittier’s geography also shapes the weather—long, cold winters and mild, short summers. The surrounding mountains and glaciers create a temperate rainforest ecosystem where lush greenery thrives despite the region’s remote location.
After taking in the sights and the landscape’s rugged beauty, we drove to the end of the main road, then immediately turned around to ensure we caught the return trip through the tunnel at the top of the hour.
Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center
We stopped at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, hoping to get a closer look at some of Alaska’s iconic wildlife. As we approached the entrance, we were greeted by a herd of bison grazing in their expansive, natural-looking habitat. The Center is dedicated to conserving Alaska’s wildlife, providing a haven for orphaned, injured, or breeding program animals. It’s home to various native Alaskan animals, including bears, moose, elk, musk oxen, and bison.
However, a sign near the entrance indicated that entry costs $25 per person, which we found a bit steep for our plans. Consequently, we decided not to venture further into the park.
Although we didn’t explore the entire center, we appreciated its vital role in preserving the state’s diverse animal populations. Instead, we opted to enjoy the scenic drive back to the campground.