Wednesday, 21 August
The Journey from Destruction Bay to Haines Junction
Our journey from Destruction Bay to Skagway covered 271 miles, offering the promise of smoother road conditions and unforgettable scenery.
The day began with clear skies, revealing the breathtaking snow-capped peaks that surrounded us. To the east, the Ruby Range rose in gentle, rounded slopes, while to the west, the rugged St. Elias Mountains dominated the horizon, their jagged peaks etched against the morning light. Together, these ranges created a dramatic backdrop that set the tone for the drive.
The highway hugged the shoreline of Kluane Lake, the largest lake in the Yukon. This stretch offered us a final opportunity to savor the lake’s pristine beauty. We paused twice—first on the western shore and later along the southern edge—captivated by the lake’s glassy surface reflecting the surrounding mountains. The stillness of the scene, punctuated only by the occasional cry of a gull, made these stops feel like stolen moments of tranquility in the vast wilderness.
As the road curved away from the lake, we passed its southern terminus, where the highway crossed a wide, dry riverbed. This gravelly expanse was once fed by the meltwaters of the Kaskawulsh Glacier, located 11 miles to the south. In 2016, a striking event of “river piracy” occurred when the glacier’s flow shifted, redirecting its waters away from Kluane Lake and into the Alsek River system. What remains is a stark, barren valley, a testament to the immense, ongoing power of glacial forces.
Leaving the lake behind, the scenery began to shift. Dense boreal forests of spruce and aspen gradually gave way to more open, tundra-like terrain. To the south, the highway traced the border of Kluane National Park and Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its massive glaciers and towering St. Elias peaks, including Mount Logan, Canada’s highest summit.
Approaching Haines Junction, the landscape opened into a sweeping valley where rivers, including the mighty Alsek, meander through a patchwork of floodplains and forested foothills. The town itself, perched in this vast expanse, is dwarfed by its surroundings. Dominating the skyline are Mount Decoeli and other towering peaks of the St. Elias range, their immense presence reminding us of the raw power and beauty of this region.
Da Kų Cultural Centre
In Haines Junction, we made a stop to refuel and visit the Da Kų Cultural Centre, a cornerstone of the community that celebrates the culture, history, and heritage of the Champagne and Aishihik First Nations. The name “Da Kų” means “Our House” in Southern Tutchone, reflecting the center’s role as a cultural gathering place and a symbol of unity for the Champagne and Aishihik people. Beyond serving as an administrative and meeting space for the First Nations, the center offers an engaging glimpse into their traditions, artistry, and connection to the land.
Inside, the exhibits are thoughtfully curated to immerse visitors in the Champagne and Aishihik way of life. Displays featured intricate beadwork, traditional tools, and beautifully handcrafted clothing that told stories of survival, resilience, and creativity in the rugged Yukon environment. Other exhibits highlighted the importance of oral traditions, seasonal subsistence practices, and the deep spiritual connection the people have with the land and its wildlife. Art pieces created by local First Nations artists added vibrant contemporary touches to the cultural narrative.
The center also functions as a Visitor Center for Kluane National Park, providing information about the park’s ecosystems, geology, and wildlife. We explored interactive exhibits that were both educational and fun, such as one comparing human weight to that of small mammals. According to the exhibit, I weighed the equivalent of 667 pikas.
The surrounding landscape was equally inspiring. From the center’s grounds, we could see the magnificent St. Elias Mountains and their snow-dusted peaks stretching into the horizon.
Haines Junction to Whitehorse
The highway stretched onward, traversing wide plains interspersed with rolling hills, scattered boreal forests, and pockets of tundra-like vegetation. The vast, open landscape was occasionally punctuated by clusters of trees, their green silhouettes contrasting against the expansive northern sky. The terrain reflected the transition from rugged mountainous regions to the more subdued and open expanses typical of central Yukon.
As we approached the small settlement of Mendenhall Landing, the road began to parallel the winding Takhini River, a scenic waterway bordered by thick vegetation. We followed the Takhini as it meandered toward its confluence with the mighty Yukon River, just north of Whitehorse, the territorial capital.
In Whitehorse, we made a brief stop to stock up on groceries. Our first attempt was at Walmart, but we soon discovered it didn’t include a grocery section. Adjusting our plan, we headed to Real Canadian Superstore, where we found everything we needed.
Whitehorse to Skagway
After leaving Whitehorse, we turned south onto Highway 2, commonly known as the Klondike Highway, a route steeped in history and surrounded by breathtaking scenery.
Our delay in Whitehorse left us behind schedule, so despite the wealth of attractions along the route to Skagway, we opted not to stop until we reached our destination.
The journey began with the characteristic rolling hills and boreal forests of the Yukon interior. The landscape was dotted with shimmering lakes and marshy lowlands.
As we continued south, we passed through the small and picturesque town of Carcross, short for Caribou Crossing, located along the shores of Bennett Lake. Skirting the edge of Nares Lake, we were treated to views of its waters framed by the surrounding hills and forests.
Beyond Carcross, the South Klondike Highway began to climb steadily into the Coast Mountains, and the scenery transformed dramatically. As we approached the alpine zone, the dense forests gave way to rugged slopes and rocky outcroppings, with fewer trees. The air grew cooler, and the landscape took on a stark quality.
As we ascended, we encountered numerous glacial-fed lakes, including Tutshi Lake and Tagish Lake, their striking turquoise waters a vivid contrast to the gray and brown tones of the mountains. These lakes, carved by ancient glaciers, added a surreal beauty to the rugged terrain.
The highway reached its highest point at White Pass, at an elevation of 3,330 feet, near the border between Canada and the United States. This alpine section was otherworldly, with barren tundra, sparse vegetation, and exposed bedrock shaped by glacial activity. Features such as moraines and hanging glaciers were visible, providing a glimpse into the region’s glacial past.
From White Pass, the highway began a dramatic descent into the Skagway Valley, navigating steep cliffs and sharp switchbacks. The terrain shifted once again, transitioning into dense temperate rainforest with lush greenery, moss-covered trees, and cascading waterfalls.
The U.S. Customs checkpoint, located seven miles from the border and another seven miles from Skagway, marked our re-entry into the United States. The process was quick and uneventful, with just a few questions before we were on our way.
The final stretch followed the Skagway River, whose flowing waters guided us into the heart of Skagway, a charming town steeped in Gold Rush history.
Skagway
Skagway is nestled between the steep, rugged peaks of the Coastal Mountains, creating a dramatic and picturesque setting. Located at the northernmost end of the Lynn Canal, one of North America’s deepest and longest fjords, the town is surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty. The Skagway River, winding its way through the valley, is fed by snowmelt and glacier runoff from the towering mountains that dominate the landscape.
Historically, Skagway was a pivotal hub during the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. The town served as the primary gateway for tens of thousands of prospectors seeking fortune in the Klondike goldfields of the Yukon. These fortune-seekers arrived by ship and disembarked in Skagway before enduring the grueling journey overland through the Chilkoot or White Pass Trails to reach the goldfields. The boom transformed Skagway into a bustling, chaotic town almost overnight, filled with miners, merchants, and opportunists. While the gold rush was short-lived, its impact on the town’s identity remains indelible.
Today, Skagway is a vibrant and charming tourist destination, with much of its historic character carefully preserved. It is a popular stop for cruise ships, which bring thousands of visitors each summer. This influx of tourists fuels the local economy, supporting a variety of businesses, including restaurants, tourist shops, art galleries, and tour operators offering excursions that highlight the area’s rich history and natural wonders.
Garden City RV Park
The city of Skagway operates the campground where we were camping, offering sites equipped with 30-amp electric hookups. While water fixtures were present at the sites, they were not functional. We were able to fill our fresh water tank using a spigot located near the office. The campground lacked additional amenities such as picnic tables or firepits.
Our assigned site, #69, was a gravel pull-through that was level, but the spacing between sites was minimal. There was not enough room to park our truck on our site, so we had to park on the road directly in front of it.
Skagway is called the “Garden City of Alaska” because its fertile soil, adequate moisture, and long summer days create ideal conditions for gardening. Since the early days of Russian colonization, gardening has been a way of life in Skagway. The town’s residents took pride in their gardens, and by 1901, the Skagway Chamber of Commerce was sending agricultural products to the Portland Exposition. The success of these gardens and the community’s efforts to be self-sufficient led to the nickname “Garden City of Alaska.”
Thursday, 22 August
Gold Rush Cemetery
We started the day driving to the Gold Rush Cemetery, located just north of town past the Skagway Rail Yard. This historic burial ground is the final resting place for numerous individuals from the Klondike Gold Rush era, including the notorious Jefferson “Soapy” Smith, a conman whose schemes were the stuff of local legend, and Frank Reid, the town hero who fatally shot Smith during a dramatic confrontation. The cemetery’s weathered headstones and inscriptions tell stories of hardship, adventure, and the indomitable spirit of those who sought fortune in this rugged frontier.
Behind the cemetery, a short but scenic hike led us to Lower Reid Falls. The cascading waterfall, named after Frank Reid, tumbles gracefully down a rocky cliff surrounded by dense greenery.
After enjoying the falls, we returned to the cemetery to wander among the headstones. We took our time reading the inscriptions, reflecting on the lives of the people buried there—miners, adventurers, and townsfolk who contributed to the rich tapestry of Skagway’s history.
The Journey from Skagway to US-Canada Border
We then drove north on the Klondike Highway, following the Skagway River. I had been looking forward to exploring this route since I had ridden the White Pass railroad on a cruise the year before. We kept our raincoats handy, as it was forecasted to rain most of the day. It was dark and cloudy, and as we began our drive.
The route paralleled the Chilkoot Trail, a 33-mile trail that led from the nearby city of Dyea to a chain of lakes at the headwaters of the Yukon River (Crater Lake, Lake Lindeman, and Bennett Lake). Prospectors used these lakes to access the interior of Canada and the Yukon goldfields in the late 1890s. Though slightly longer, prospectors also started using the White Pass trail because it was promoted as less rigorous and steep. Promoters advertised the White Pass as suitable for pack animals and wagons. In reality, the trail was subject to severe winter snowstorms and endless summer mud and was frequently impassable. It became known as “Dead Horse Trail” due to the number of pack animals that died on this trail.
The Chilkoot Trail became obsolete in 1899 when the White Pass and Yukon Route (W.P. & Y.R.) narrow-gauge railroad was built through the White Pass. The southern end of the Klondike Highway also uses the White Pass and parallels the railway. We were able to catch glimpses of the railroad as we drove.
About 6 miles from Skagway, we passed the US Border Customs and Border Protection checkpoint, and the road began to climb rapidly.
A few minutes later, we stopped to see the Goat Lake Hydroelectric Project pipelines going down the mountainside. This hydroelectric plant was built in 1990 to use the water from this high-elevation lake to supply Skagway with power. Next to the pipes, we could see a beautiful waterfall.
The Bridal Veil Falls were just a short distance farther down the road. This waterfall was next to the highway and flowed into the Skagway River.
Our next stop was at the large parking lot near the unused Captain William Moore Bridge. This cantilevered suspension bridge was built in 1976 to span the Moore Creek gorge. Because it is located on the Denali Fault, it was designed to be anchored only on one side to allow it to “swing” in the event of an earthquake. It was replaced in 2017 when it began to show signs of wear. Access to the bridge was blocked, but the parking area gave us stunning views of the alpine valley, with snow-capped mountains and deep gorges. The next lookout provided great views of the bridge from a distance.
We found several tour buses when we arrived at the US-Canadian border, 14 miles from Skagway. After waiting in line, we had their tour guide take our picture next to the “Welcome to Alaska” sign.
On the border, we also found The Kiwanis Rock Man. This inuksuk, a stone cairn shaped like a human figure, was constructed by the Kiwanis Club, to mark the border and symbolize the cooperation between the two neighboring countries. An inuksuk is a human-made stone structure historically used by the Inuit and other Indigenous peoples of the Arctic regions. They have been used for thousands of years for navigation, hunting aids, territory markers, and messages. It symbolizes a human presence or the concept of ” someone was here, ” connecting people across time and space. It has been adopted as a broader symbol of Canadian identity.
Summit Lake
As we crossed the border into Canada, our journey followed a series of interconnected lakes that once served as vital routes for gold rush prospectors navigating toward the Yukon goldfields. These pioneers constructed makeshift boats to traverse the frigid waters, using the chain of lakes as part of their arduous journey to fortune—or disappointment.
We stopped at the Summit Lake Overlook, a scenic vantage point near the crest of White Pass. Summit Lake, a modest yet striking alpine lake, spans approximately 0.19 square miles. Perched at an elevation of around 3,280 feet, the lake is nestled amidst the rugged peaks of the Coast Mountains. Its elongated shape and crystal-clear waters reflect the surrounding landscape.
The area surrounding Summit Lake is a testament to the raw beauty of the alpine environment. The terrain is predominantly rocky, with sparse vegetation and a stark, treeless expanse that adds to the dramatic atmosphere. The tundra-like landscape is dotted with lichen and hardy shrubs that cling to the rocky soil, evidence of nature’s resilience in this harsh climate.
Fraser
We then stopped at a pull-off near the small town of Fraser, located just two miles beyond the U.S.-Canada border and nestled below White Pass at an elevation of approximately 3,292 feet. The small settlement serves as both a Canadian customs checkpoint and a quiet reminder of its historical significance. During the Klondike Gold Rush, Fraser played a crucial role as a supply and maintenance hub for the iconic White Pass & Yukon Route (WP&YR) railway, which transported thousands of prospectors and their goods between the coast and the Yukon goldfields.
Today, Fraser has evolved into a small settlement primarily catering to tourists and travelers crossing the border. The customs checkpoint is one of its most prominent features, ensuring the seamless flow of visitors moving between the United States and Canada.
The scenic pull-off offered us a chance to take in the striking alpine landscape. From this vantage point, we could see the old Fraser train station, a relic of the gold rush era that continues to evoke the adventurous spirit of those times. Beyond the station, the shimmering waters of Bernard Lake stretched out, their serene surface reflecting the surrounding rugged peaks and sky.
The area around Fraser is characterized by its location in the alpine and subalpine zones, meaning much of the terrain lies above the treeline. This results in a landscape dominated by rocky outcroppings, hardy shrubs, and patches of moss and lichen that thrive in the thin, cold air. The stark beauty of the environment, with its barren slopes and distant views of snow-capped mountains, highlighted the raw, untamed nature of this high-elevation region.
Shallow Lake & Log Cabin Recreation Area
As we continued our journey north, we passed Shallow Lake, its still waters reflecting the rugged terrain around it. Shortly after, we arrived at the Log Cabin Recreation Area, a historic site that once served as a critical rest and resupply point for travelers who had braved the grueling climb over White Pass during the Klondike Gold Rush. Located in the shadow of the pass, this area was a welcome respite for weary prospectors, offering a moment to catch their breath and prepare for the next leg of their arduous trek. From here, the headwaters of the Yukon River at Bennett Lake were just a day’s hike away, making this spot a strategic location during the gold rush era. Later, the area gained significance as a stop along the White Pass & Yukon Route railway.
Despite its name, we didn’t spot any log cabins at the Log Cabin Recreation Area. Instead, we found outhouses designed to keep waste above ground due to the permafrost.
The area is not only steeped in history but also serves as a hub for outdoor recreation. The trailheads for both the White Pass Trail and the Chilkoot Trail are nearby, attracting hikers keen to follow in the footsteps of the prospectors who once trudged through these rugged landscapes. Additionally, the Log Cabin Recreation Area is a popular destination for winter sports enthusiasts, with several groomed trails tailored for skiers and snowshoers.
Landslide near Tutshi Lake
As we continued our journey, we encountered a section of the road where a massive landslide caused by heavy rains had blocked the highway just a month prior. The heavy rains had also triggered a separate landslide that temporarily blocked the White Pass & Yukon Route railroad.
The destruction was staggering, with enormous piles of rock, soil, and debris still on the road. A pilot car escorted us through this precarious stretch, guiding vehicles one lane at a time around the work equipment and the remnants of the slide. Even now, crews worked tirelessly to clear the debris, a monumental task estimated to require the removal of over 4,500 dump truckloads of material.
Tutshi Lake
Tutshi Lake is about 20 miles long and 43 miles from Skagway. It stretches through a rugged valley flanked by steep mountains and has a narrow, winding shape.
Tutshi Lake, located about 43 miles from Skagway, Alaska, and stretching approximately 20 miles through a rugged valley, holds historical significance tied to the Klondike Gold Rush and the Indigenous peoples of the region. The lake’s name, derived from the Tlingit word T’ooch’ (meaning “charcoal” or “burnt”), reflects its connection to the Tlingit people, who have lived in and traveled through the area for generations.
The Tlingit people traditionally used the lake and its surrounding lands for hunting, fishing, and seasonal travel. The lake was part of an interconnected network of waterways and trails that facilitated trade and cultural exchange between coastal and inland communities. Indigenous canoes, expertly crafted from local timber, would have plied the lake’s waters, and its shores would have served as important seasonal campsites.
During the Klondike Gold Rush of the late 1890s, Tutshi Lake became a critical part of the overland route to the goldfields. Prospectors and stampeders traveling the White Pass Trail would eventually encounter the lake as they made their way toward Bennett Lake, where they constructed boats to continue their journey down the Yukon River to Dawson City. The rugged terrain around Tutshi Lake posed significant challenges for these travelers, and its cold, clear waters became a symbol of both beauty and hardship.
Tagish Lake
Tagish Lake, approximately 47 miles from Skagway, lies at the heart of the stunning borderlands between British Columbia and the Yukon Territory. Stretching 62 miles in length with a surface area of about 136 square miles, the lake is an expansive body of glacial-fed water that snakes through rugged valleys framed by towering peaks and dense forests.
As we crossed from British Columbia into the Yukon, we stopped to take photos at the iconic border sign marking our transition between these two regions.
Along the shore, we glimpsed remnants of the old Venus Mine aerial tramway structure on the cliffs above the lake. This silver mine, discovered and developed in the early 1900s, was a testament to the area’s rich mining history, which surged after the Klondike Gold Rush. The tramway system, an engineering marvel of its time, transported ore from the steep cliffs to the lake’s shores for processing and shipment.
A short distance farther along the lake’s northern reaches, we encountered the picturesque Bove Island. Nestled amidst the sparkling waters of Tagish Lake, the island is a small but captivating landmark that draws the eye with its rugged beauty. It is named after Lieutenant Gustavus Charles Ferdinand von Bove, a naval officer and explorer who contributed to the mapping and exploration of this remote region in the late 19th century.
Carcross
We eventually arrived at Carcross, drove to the downtown area, and parked at the visitor center. Many people were walking about, waiting to board the White Pass train to Skagway.
The town’s name is derived from “Caribou Crossing,” as it was historically a central crossing point for caribou herds and an important stop during the Klondike Gold Rush. Carcross is home to the Carcross/Tagish First Nation people, and we saw many Indigenous art pieces, traditional totem poles, and cultural centers celebrating the heritage of the local First Nations community. Stunning lakes and mountains, including Bennett Lake, Nares Lake, and the Coast Mountains surround it,
We walked around the train and the train station before walking over to the Watson General Store. It is the oldest operating store in the Yukon, dating back to the Klondike Gold Rush of 1898. It has only changed hands twice in its long history. The store was full of fun tourist gifts. One of my favorites was the “Famous Yukon Drinking Mitt.”
We then walked over to the SS Tutshi Memorial, which had the remains of a stern-wheeler built in 1917 that operated on the Tagish and Bennet Lakes. In 1990, it was destroyed by fire while undergoing restoration. The remains were converted into a museum with interpretive panels about the ship.
We then walked over to the Carcross Commons, which consisted of various small shops. Many had indigenous artwork on them, and there was a totem pole at its center with interpretive panels providing information about the local tribes. We bought some pastries and a Black Forest Hot Chocolate.
Carcross Desert
After leaving downtown, we drove to the Carcross Desert, often called the “world’s smallest desert.” It is one square mile in size, and despite its name, it is technically not a true desert but a series of sand dunes. The area is the remains of an ancient glacial lake that dried up.
After leaving downtown Carcross, we ventured to the intriguing Carcross Desert, a unique natural phenomenon often referred to as the “world’s smallest desert.” Spanning just one square mile, this compact yet captivating landscape defies expectations in the heart of the Yukon. Despite its title, the Carcross Desert is not a true desert; rather, it is a series of sandy dunes formed from the remnants of an ancient glacial lake that dried up thousands of years ago.
The sands of the Carcross Desert were once the bed of a glacial lake that existed during the last Ice Age. As the glaciers retreated and the lake drained, fine particles of silt and sand were left behind. Over time, strong winds blowing through the nearby Bennett Lake valley shaped the remaining sediments into the dunes we see today. The dry, sandy terrain, combined with limited precipitation in the region, gives the area its desert-like appearance and unique ecosystem.
Despite its arid and barren appearance, the Carcross Desert is home to a surprising variety of life. Specialized plants, such as the Yukon lupine and Baikal sedge, thrive in the sandy environment, anchoring the dunes with their roots. The Baikal sedge is especially notable as it is a rare species, found in very few places in the world. Visitors to the Carcross Desert often marvel at its stark contrast to the surrounding alpine scenery.
Emerald Lake
Before starting our return journey to Skagway, we drove further north to see the breathtaking Emerald Lake, a must-see destination in the Yukon. This small but stunning lake is renowned for its vibrant, emerald-green and turquoise hues that captivate visitors from across the world. These striking colors are a result of light reflecting off a layer of marl—calcium carbonate deposits—on the lake bed. As sunlight penetrates the water, it interacts with the marl and creates a shimmering mosaic of green and blue tones, particularly vivid on sunny days.
Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate during our visit. The cloudy, rainy skies muted the lake’s typically vibrant hues, casting a grayish tone over the water. While the view was still beautiful, it lacked the brilliance that sunny conditions would have provided. Despite this, the lake’s serene atmosphere and the quiet beauty of its surroundings offered a peaceful moment.
Summit Lake
As we began our journey back to Skagway, the weather took a turn for the worse. What had started as a cloudy day soon descended into heavier rain and fog. Despite the weather, we decided to make one more stop at Summit Lake, drawn by the allure of its rugged terrain and the wild beauty that surrounded it.
Summit Lake, perched high in the alpine zone, was even more captivating in the shifting weather. The lake, with its clear waters nestled among jagged mountain peaks, looked almost surreal against the backdrop of the dense fog creeping over the ridgelines.
Even though the visibility was limited by the fog, the rugged, raw beauty of the landscape still shone through. The steep mountain slopes, the scattered boulders, and the jagged ridgelines around the lake made it feel as if we were standing at the threshold of an untouched, remote world.
We saw a mixture of deep, sapphire-blue lakes and emerald-green lakes, and sometimes both these hues existed in the same lake, often separated by thin strips of land.
Downtown Skagway
After returning to Skagway, we decided to take a leisurely drive around the town to explore it. Our first stop was by the cruise ship docks, where several large cruise liners were docked. The area’s activity was slowing down, as many tourists had already returned to their ships for the evening.
Next, we went through downtown Skagway, following Broadway Street, the heart of the town’s tourist scene. The streets were lined with colorful storefronts, historic buildings, and charming little shops. Broadway was busy with evening shoppers, many browsing through local boutiques, art galleries, and souvenir shops. The town’s gold rush history was on full display, with many shops offering artifacts, replicas, and local crafts that celebrated Skagway’s unique past.
As we continued driving, we made a pit stop at the Klondike Doughboy, a small, unassuming store known for its delicious fry bread. The smell of fresh, warm dough and sugar filled the air as we waited for our treat. The fry bread was soft, golden brown, and perfectly crispy on the edges. We ate our fry bread and then returned to our campsite for dinner.
The Days of 98 Show
That evening, the caravan had tickets to the famous “Days of 98” show, a lively and colorful vaudevillian musical that captured the wild spirit of the Klondike Gold Rush era. The performance occurred in the historic FOE (Fraternal Order of Eagles) building, a charming venue dating back to 1900 and has long been a staple of Skagway’s entertainment scene.
Since we arrived early, I had time to explore the surrounding area before the show began. I wandered through the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, taking in the town’s rich history and soaking in the atmosphere of the Gold Rush era. Many of the buildings around the venue were beautifully preserved. I marveled at the old structures that had witnessed the rush of prospectors, adventurers, and entrepreneurs who once passed through Skagway on their way to strike it rich. The park offers a fascinating glimpse into the past, and I took the opportunity to walk around and imagine what life must have been like for those who arrived in Skagway over a century ago.
Before the performance started, we were treated to 30 minutes of mock gambling in a recreated casino. It was all in good fun, with pretend chips and dealers who kept the atmosphere lighthearted. With only three gaming tables in the mock casino, things quickly became crowded as everyone tried their hand at a little “play money” action. Despite the limited space, the friendly competition made for a lively start to the night, with many of us laughing and joking as we tried our luck at cards and roulette. Not everyone in our group could join in the fun at the tables due to space constraints, but that didn’t seem to dampen the excitement.
The show was a wild, raunchy good time, filled with humorous skits, lively music, and plenty of audience participation. Several caravan members were called up on stage to participate in the antics, adding to the fun. The humor was bold, with plenty of playful innuendo and lighthearted ribbing that kept everyone laughing from start to finish. The evening was a true throwback to the boisterous entertainment of the gold rush days, and the cast’s exuberant performances had the crowd clapping and cheering.
Friday, 23 August
Fjord Express Cruise to Juneau
Today, the caravan embarked on a scheduled cruise to Juneau with Fjord Express. The weather was cool and overcast as we boarded the Fjordland, a sleek 65-foot, high-speed catamaran designed to carry up to 48 passengers. The cabin was equipped with comfortable seating surrounded by large windows for optimal viewing, and we managed to snag seats at the front. However, I found myself spending most of the trip on the back deck, enjoying the fresh air and unobstructed views.
We departed at 8 a.m., beginning our 90-mile journey south to Juneau through the scenic Lynn Canal. Along the way, the landscape unfolded into a breathtaking display of natural beauty: towering mountains shrouded in mist, dense evergreen forests, majestic glaciers, and cascading waterfalls. Occasionally, we passed clusters of elegant homes nestled along the shoreline.
The wildlife sightings were abundant and thrilling. We spotted pods of orcas slicing through the water, bald eagles soaring overhead, harbor seals lounging on rocky outcrops, sea lions basking along the shore, and flocks of seagulls skimming the waves. Two historic lighthouses added to the charm of the journey: the Eldred Rock Lighthouse, built in 1906 with its iconic octagonal tower, and the Sentinel Island Lighthouse, a striking sentinel guiding mariners through these waters.
The captain paused the vessel at every highlight, allowing passengers ample time to appreciate the sights and capture photos. His commentary was both informative and engaging, enhancing the experience as we cruised past each point of interest or wildlife encounter.
Having cruised the Lynn Canal the year prior during a cruise ship excursion, I was amazed at how much more wildlife I saw during this trip.
Juneau
A bus picked us up at the dock in Juneau and gave us a brief tour of the city, stopping at Tahku: The Whale Sculpture. This impressive life-sized bronze sculpture captures a humpback whale mid-breach, surrounded by fountains that mimic the splash of water. The artwork celebrates the marine wildlife that defines Alaska’s coastal environment. After the tour, the bus dropped us off at Marine Park, leaving us with four hours of free time to explore the city.
Lisa and I began by strolling through Juneau’s streets, snapping photos of the city’s eclectic mix of public sculptures and art installations. After working up an appetite, we headed to the Red Dog Saloon, a historic establishment that dates back to the Klondike Gold Rush. Although the saloon is no longer in its original location, it retains its authentic charm with sawdust-covered floors, mounted animal trophies, and walls adorned with old-time memorabilia. We were given a cozy spot on the upper balcony to enjoy lunch and couldn’t resist trying the saloon’s signature Duck Fart shot, a layered blend of Kahlúa, Bailey’s Irish Cream, and Crown Royal whiskey.
After lunch, we meandered through the city’s tourist shops, browsing everything from local crafts to quirky souvenirs. Our next stop was the Alaskan Brewing Public House, where we sampled a flight of beers. The outdoor seating provided a perfect vantage point for people-watching and admiring the massive cruise ships docked nearby.
Curious to explore more of Juneau’s burgeoning craft beer scene, we walked over to the Devils Club Brewing Company. However, after glancing at their menu, we decided the beers looked too bitter for our taste. Instead, we ventured to the historic Alaskan Hotel, established in 1913 and the oldest operating hotel in Alaska. Drawn by a sign advertising Crab Farts, we stepped into their Victorian-style bar. There, we learned about the local tradition of “Fart” shots—a playful staple of the Juneau bar scene where each bar in the city had its twist on the recipe. The Alaskan Hotel Crab Fart consisted of a layered blend of Kahlua, Bailey’s Irish Cream, and Sailor Jerry rum. The bartender gave us a card to collect stamps from each bar in town where farts were served. Surprisingly, the Red Dog Saloon was not on the card, and the bartender told us they were invited to participate but had turned the consortium down.
With our new mission in mind, we made a final stop at the Griz Bar before heading back to Marine Park to catch the bus. We managed to squeeze in one last Bear Fart shot, a layered blend of Denali Spirits Coffee Whiskey, Saint Brendan’s Irish Cream, and Anchorage Distillery Blueberry Vodka, bringing our Juneau adventure to a fittingly unique conclusion.
Cruise back to Skagway
Around 4:30 p.m., we began our return journey to Skagway aboard the Fjordland. Although we retraced the same route through the Lynn Canal, the breathtaking scenery remained as captivating as ever. Towering mountains framed the horizon, their peaks dusted with fresh snow, while the deep blue waters of the canal sparkled beneath the overcast sky. Waterfalls cascaded down the steep cliffs.
I spent most of the trip on the back deck, braving the cold air for the uninterrupted views and the occasional wildlife sighting. Despite the chill, the deck offered a sense of immersion in the surroundings that no window could match. The crisp air carried the faint scent of saltwater and the distant sounds of seabirds calling from the cliffs.
As the boat glided smoothly through the water, we passed familiar landmarks from the morning journey: the rugged shoreline dotted with lush forests, the occasional quaint home perched on a hillside, and the iconic lighthouses standing guard against the dramatic Alaskan backdrop. The changing light and different vantage points lent a different atmosphere to the landscape.
Though the wind was biting, it was worth enduring to witness the magic of the Alaskan wilderness unfolding before me. Every turn of the canal revealed another postcard-perfect view.
Saturday, 24 August
Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park
The Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park serves as a tribute to the adventurous spirit and historical significance of the Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-1898, a defining moment in Alaskan and Canadian history. The park is uniquely spread across four units in Alaska and Washington, with much of its activity concentrated in the heart of downtown Skagway. This area includes over 20 meticulously restored buildings from the Gold Rush era, providing a window into the lives of prospectors and entrepreneurs during that dramatic period.
The visitor center, located in the historic White Pass & Yukon Route Depot building, serves as a hub for exploring the park. The depot itself is a piece of history, reflecting the role Skagway played as a gateway to the Klondike. Inside, interpretive displays delve into the stories of the gold seekers, the boomtowns that sprang up along their routes, and the challenges they faced in their quest for fortune. The exhibits showcase photographs, artifacts, and firsthand accounts, bringing the era to life. The center also features a small theater where visitors can watch a short film detailing the history and significance of the Klondike Gold Rush, offering a comprehensive introduction to the park’s themes.
We secured free tickets for a ranger-led tour of the Jeff Smith Parlor Museum later that day, one of the park’s highlights. Known as “Soapy” Smith’s Parlor, this building was once the headquarters of Jefferson “Soapy” Smith, a notorious conman who wielded considerable influence in Skagway during the Gold Rush. The parlor’s exhibits provide insight into the town’s colorful past, including its criminal underbelly and the individuals who shaped its legacy.
The Mascot Saloon
The Mascot Saloon, a prominent part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, offered us a step back in time to experience the lively atmosphere of a turn-of-the-century saloon during the Klondike Gold Rush. Built in 1898, the Mascot was one of Skagway’s numerous saloons, catering to the adventurous crowd of miners, prospectors, and fortune-seekers making their way to the Yukon.
During the gold rush, Skagway boasted over 70 saloons, gambling houses, and dance halls, making it a bustling and sometimes rowdy hub of activity. The Mascot Saloon stood out as a key gathering spot where patrons could enjoy a drink, play cards or dice, and exchange tales of their adventures. These establishments were more than just bars—they were places of community, entertainment, and sometimes, schemes and con games targeting unwary newcomers.
Today, the Mascot Saloon has been meticulously restored to its 1898 appearance, offering visitors a glimpse into the gold rush era’s vibrant social scene. The recreated bar area, complete with vintage furniture, polished woodwork, and period-specific décor, creates an authentic atmosphere. Interpretive exhibits and panels delve into the role of saloons in Skagway’s social and economic life, explaining how these establishments served as hubs for camaraderie, business deals, and, occasionally, nefarious activities.
The exhibits also explore the temperance movements that arose in opposition to saloons and the eventual decline of establishments like the Mascot following the introduction of prohibition laws. Stories of the saloon’s patrons, both famous and infamous, bring to life the colorful characters who passed through its doors during the height of the gold rush.
Soapy Smith Parlor Room Tour
We met our tour guide outside Jeff Smith’s Parlor at 10:30 a.m. Due to the building’s historical significance and the fragility of its unique artifacts, the building was only accessible via ranger-led tours.
Our tour group consisted of about a dozen people, all eager to step into the world of this notorious outlaw. The park ranger began by narrating the thrilling tale of Soapy Smith’s rise and fall, setting the stage for the journey through the museum. Inside, the collection was both fascinating and quirky, a mix of genuine gold rush relics and eccentric creations by Martin Itjen. The ranger pointed out key artifacts, shared anecdotes, and allowed us plenty of time to explore the exhibits. Among the most memorable displays were the animatronic figures, which added a touch of whimsy and nostalgia to the experience.
Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith, one of the most infamous figures of the Klondike Gold Rush, acquired this modest building in 1898. For three brief but infamous months, Smith used it as his base of operations, orchestrating his web of cons, scams, and criminal enterprises. From this very structure, the “king of the con men” and his gang swindled countless prospectors, capitalizing on their gold rush dreams. Soapy’s reign over Skagway came to a dramatic end when he was killed in a shootout during the infamous gunfight on July 8, 1898.
After Soapy’s demise, the building underwent numerous transformations. It was eventually repurposed as a museum in 1935 by Martin Itjen, a colorful local character who sought to preserve Skagway’s gold rush history and the legend of Soapy Smith. Itjen dubbed it “Jeff Smith’s Parlor Museum,” filling it with an eclectic mix of gold rush artifacts, folk art, and oddities such as taxidermied animals. A centerpiece of the collection was a large diorama depicting two moose locked in combat.
Itjen also added three animatronic mannequins: Soapy Smith, Dangerous Dan, and Lady Lou. These figures were early attempts at creating interactive exhibits to captivate visitors with dramatized glimpses of Skagway’s notorious past. After Itjen’s death in 1942, the museum changed hands several times, was moved to new locations, and had various stints of operation. It reopened to the public in 1967 under new ownership and continued until 1975. From 1975 to 1986, it hosted private tours before falling into disrepair. In 2007, the National Park Service acquired the building and undertook an extensive eight-year restoration project, reopening it in 2016 as part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park.
The tour provided an intimate and immersive experience, shedding light on Soapy Smith’s life and the colorful, chaotic days of Skagway’s gold rush. The ranger’s knowledge and enthusiasm brought the history to life, answering questions and providing context that deepened our appreciation for Skagway’s colorful past. The tour was a highlight of our visit, offering a window into the human stories behind the Klondike Gold Rush and the enduring legacy of Soapy Smith’s brief but notorious reign.
Corrington Museum
The Corrington Museum of Alaskan History, located within the charming Corrington’s Alaskan Ivory & Museum shop, is a hidden gem in Skagway. The museum offered a rich and immersive glimpse into Alaska’s storied past. It combines a focus on the Klondike Gold Rush era with insights into the indigenous cultures of the region.
One of the standout features of the museum is its extensive collection of intricately crafted ivory carvings, showcasing the skill and artistry of Alaska’s indigenous peoples. These carvings, made from walrus tusks, whale teeth, and mammoth ivory, illustrate traditional stories, animals, and cultural symbols that reflect the heritage of the region. Each piece in the collection is a testament to the patience and expertise required to create such detailed and delicate works.
In addition to the ivory carvings, the museum pays tribute to the region’s indigenous heritage with interpretive displays on traditional lifestyles, clothing, tools, and artwork. Visitors can learn about the connection between the land and its people, gaining a deeper appreciation for the ways in which Alaska’s indigenous cultures have thrived in its challenging environment for centuries.
The museum also featured exhibits dedicated to the Klondike Gold Rush. Displays include authentic tools, maps, photographs, and artifacts used by prospectors during their arduous journey to the Yukon goldfields. These exhibits capture the spirit of adventure, resilience, and often desperation that defined the gold rush era.
The shop itself complements the museum experience, offering locally made crafts, jewelry, and ivory pieces for sale. While exploring the museum, visitors can also browse the shop’s unique collection of souvenirs and keepsakes, many of which are inspired by Alaska’s rich cultural and natural history.
Though compact, the Corrington Museum of Alaskan History provided an engaging and educational experience, blending art, culture, and history.
Dyea
We then drove out to the ghost town of Dyea, about 10 miles away.
Dyea was established in the late 1890s as a bustling port and staging area for gold seekers arriving by boat during the Klondike Gold Rush. Its strategic location at the head of the Chilkoot Trail made it a key gateway for prospectors aiming to reach the goldfields of the Yukon. At its peak, Dyea was home to a population of around 10,000 people, supported by a lively array of businesses, saloons, and boarding houses that catered to the influx of miners. The town thrived as supplies and materials were shipped in to support the gold rush frenzy.
However, Dyea’s prosperity was short-lived. In 1900, the completion of the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad provided a faster and more efficient alternative to the grueling Chilkoot Trail. As Skagway became the preferred transportation hub, Dyea’s population rapidly dwindled, and by 1901, the town was virtually abandoned.
Today, Dyea is largely a ghost town, its history preserved in scattered remnants of buildings and a cemetery where some of its early residents were laid to rest. The area offers visitors a glimpse into its storied past, surrounded by the natural beauty of the Taiya River valley.
The journey took us along the scenic Dyea Road, a dirt road that hugs the coastline of Nahku Bay, before continuing toward the Dyea Inlet. Along the way, we stopped at a pullout that offered a fantastic view of Skagway, complete with interpretive signs detailing the area’s history. Farther along the road, we passed Matthews Creek, where we spotted an abandoned cabin and paused at another pull-off overlooking Nahku Bay. Here, interpretive signs told the story of Canada, a sunken ship near the bay that is a relic of Dyea’s busy port days.
As the road veered inland, it began following the Taiya River. Several interpretive signs along the way provided insights into the history of Dyea and the significance of the Taiya River during the gold rush era. We passed the Dyea Campground nestled in the forest before continuing northward.
We stopped at the Chilkoot Trailhead, near a bridge spanning the Taiya River. This iconic trailhead marks the beginning of the arduous path once traveled by thousands of gold seekers. The well-maintained and scenic 33-mile trail would have been fun and challenging to hike had I the time or fitness. The area is rich in both history and natural beauty, offering a serene yet poignant reminder of Dyea’s fleeting moment of glory.
Dyea Cemetery
We detoured down a narrow, single-lane road leading to the Dyea Cemetery. This small, peaceful burial ground serves as a poignant reminder of the lives that were part of the Dyea community during its brief heyday in the late 1800s. The cemetery is the final resting place for miners, pioneers, families, and possibly some indigenous peoples who lived or passed through the area during the Klondike Gold Rush.
Walking through the cemetery, we noticed a mix of gravestones and markers, each reflecting the personalities and stories of those buried there. Many graves were marked with simple wooden crosses or headstones, weathered by time and the elements. Others featured more elaborate carvings and inscriptions that offered a glimpse into the lives of the departed. The dates and epitaphs told a story of struggle, resilience, and often heartbreak in a harsh and unforgiving environment.
One striking detail was the number of gravestones bearing the same date: April 3, 1898. This marks the tragic day when a massive snow slide on the Chilkoot Pass claimed dozens of lives. The Chilkoot Trail was a treacherous route for gold seekers, and the avalanche served as a stark reminder of the dangers faced by those driven by dreams of fortune.
The cemetery, surrounded by tall trees and the quiet beauty of the Taiya River valley, offers a chance to reflect on Dyea’s history and the lives of those who once called it home, or at least an important stop as they sought their fortunes during the gold rush era.
Historic Dyea Townsite
After visiting the cemetery, we drove to the old townsite of Dyea. The area is now a wooded, peaceful landscape where nature has slowly reclaimed the land. As we wandered along the pathways marking the locations where the streets once existed, it was easy to imagine the bustling town that once stood here during the Klondike Gold Rush. The townsite offers a hauntingly quiet glimpse into the past.
Scattered throughout the area, we found the outlines of old buildings that were once saloons, hotels, warehouses, and supply stores that catered to the thousands of miners, adventurers, and traders who passed through Dyea during the height of the gold rush. The buildings have long since crumbled, but their foundations and faded remnants tell the story of a town that thrived for a brief moment in history. In the quiet of the wooded area, it was easy to picture the once-bustling streets of Dyea, filled with people eager to make their fortunes.
We came across a few interpretive signs offering context and historical background. These signs provided insights into the town’s heyday, detailing how Dyea was a critical staging point for prospectors attempting the grueling journey over the Chilkoot Pass. The town’s prosperity, however, was short-lived, as it was eventually overtaken by Skagway when the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad opened up a more efficient route for gold seekers.
The foundations and remnants left behind, though few, were powerful reminders of the gold rush era and the rapid rise and fall of towns that played a pivotal role in that chapter of history.
The wooded area was a very peaceful and beautiful area to walk around. One of the highlights was seeing the variety of mushrooms there.