Thursday, 3 April
The Journey from St Augustine to Jacksonville
Our journey from St. Augustine Beach KOA Holiday to Flamingo Lake RV Resort in Jacksonville was a smooth and scenic drive of about 60 miles, taking roughly an hour and fifteen minutes. We took I-95 North, then hopped on I-295 to skirt around the bulk of downtown Jacksonville traffic. Flamingo Lake RV Resort was conveniently located less than a mile off the highway.
Flamingo Lake RV Resort
Flamingo Lake RV Resort is a spacious and well-appointed campground, offering around 286 full-hookup sites. One of its standout features is a 17-acre lake, perfect for swimming and fishing, with sandy beaches scattered along its shores. Our assigned spot was a pull-thru, but to make the turn cleanly, we had to circle all the way around the lake—a pleasant loop, except for the seemingly endless series of speed bumps that tested our patience (and our suspension).
Our site was nestled between two obvious long-term residents, which we could tell by the built-out setups and clutter surrounding their rigs. On our door side, our neighbor’s camper was facing directly toward ours, leaving us to awkwardly share the narrow strip of space between the two sites. It might’ve been intended as a buddy site layout, but all the other campers nearby were oriented the same way we were, so it felt like an odd setup. That said, since we don’t typically spend much time sitting outside, it didn’t bother us too much.
The site itself was paved, level, and offered full hookups along with cable TV. The only downside was the lack of shade—it was a hot afternoon, and the sun was relentless. We quickly turned on the air conditioning before heading just a half mile down the road to Walmart to restock our groceries and replace our ice maker, which had recently started leaking.
Once back at the campsite, we decided to explore the grounds by bike. The resort’s layout is pleasantly flat, so even though Lisa’s e-bike was having some electrical issues and she had to ride without pedal assist, she didn’t have any trouble keeping up. As we cruised around the lake, we passed several inviting beaches and a fishing pier. Near the beach closest to our site, we stumbled across a laid-back lakeside café with a great deck overlooking the water—perfect for a quick break and a couple of refreshing margaritas.
Chicken Wings and Booze
That evening, the caravan staff hosted a casual gathering with plenty of food and drinks. They served up generous plates of chicken wings, chips, cheese and sausage, fresh veggies, and cookies. For beverages, they had a fun selection—Hazy IPA, Kona, Modelo, and Blue Moon beers, canned margaritas, and boxed wine. It was a relaxed and sociable evening, with plenty of laughs and conversation. In fact, there was so much food that the staff brought out sandwich bags and practically begged everyone to take leftovers.
After everyone had eaten, each rig took a moment to say a few words—sharing stories, expressing appreciation for the group, and reflecting on the adventures we’d had together. To wrap up the evening, there was a lighthearted drawing to see who would “win” the traveling flamingo—a quirky little mascot that made its rounds among the group throughout the tour. To our surprise, Lisa and I “won!” The tradition is that we now send quarterly updates on the flamingo’s ongoing adventures—a fun little way to stay connected with everyone.
We then returned to our camper to relax and prepare for the next day’s adventures.
Friday, 4 April
USS Orleck
The caravan boarded a motorcoach around 9 a.m. and headed into downtown Jacksonville to tour the USS Orleck (DD-886), a historic Gearing-class destroyer with a long and distinguished service record. Commissioned in 1945, the Orleck served in the United States Navy for 37 years, participating in major conflicts from the Korean War to Vietnam.
Her first combat operations began in February 1951, when she patrolled off the east coast of Korea, performing carrier escort duties and launching shore bombardments. During the Vietnam War, she again saw extensive action, providing naval gunfire support and taking part in multiple operations. Over the years, she received significant upgrades, including a major overhaul under the Fleet Rehabilitation and Modernization (FRAM) I program. This modification dramatically modernized the ship—replacing everything above the deck and adding a hangar and flight deck for an anti-submarine drone, which enhanced her capabilities in underwater warfare.
After her decommissioning in October 1982, the Orleck was transferred to the Turkish Navy and renamed TCG Yücetepe (D 345), where she continued to serve until her final retirement. She was eventually gifted back to the U.S. and turned into a museum ship, first berthed in Orange, Texas, then relocated to Lake Charles, Louisiana. Three years ago, she found her latest home in Jacksonville, where she now serves as the centerpiece of the Jacksonville Naval Museum.
After a short safety briefing, we were free to explore the ship on our own. Lisa and I started at the forward gun turret, where a video played inside the structure—complete with synchronized floor vibrations timed to the firing sequence, adding a visceral element to the experience. We then climbed up to the landing deck where they had an anti-submarine drone. Nearly all the rooms of the ship were open and thoughtfully staged. Mannequins brought life to key areas, and ambient sounds added atmosphere—such as the steady clatter of a teletype machine in the communications room. We were all a bit surprised by the ship’s compact size, especially considering the footage and photos we saw of her crashing through huge waves at sea. One member of our group had served aboard a destroyer and shared firsthand stories of life onboard—adding a personal and insightful layer to the visit. As we wandered through the ship, we were struck by how well-preserved it was and how many volunteers were actively working on restoration projects. It was an excellent tribute to those who served.
As we returned to the motorcoach, the wonderful aroma of freshly ground coffee drifted over to us from a nearby Maxwell House plant.
Sweet Pete’s
From there, we headed to a renowned confectionery in downtown Jacksonville called Sweet Petes.
Sweet Pete’s Candy is located in a beautifully restored, 23,000-square-foot Victorian mansion that once served as the exclusive Seminole Club, a local men’s club. Founded in 2010, Sweet Pete’s has since grown into the largest candy store in the Southeast, offering more than a thousand varieties of handcrafted chocolates and sweets. The business gained national attention in 2014 after being featured on CNBC’s The Profit, which led to a partnership with entrepreneur Marcus Lemonis.
When we arrived, we were immediately struck by the elaborate Easter decorations both inside and outside the historic home. After taking it all in, we met our guide, who led us on a tour of the mansion. The place was bustling with student groups and other visitors, adding to the lively atmosphere. Our guide shared some of the building’s history and gave us an overview of the first-floor candy and gift shop, pointing out which confections were made on-site and which were sourced from other makers. They also had an assortment of sodas with names like “Brownie” and “MacFuddy.” The guide also pointed out the restaurant and the ice cream parlor located downstairs.
Next, we headed up to the second floor, where we entered what used to be their original ice cream parlor—now repurposed as a party space. There, we each received two scoops of Hershey’s ice cream. Our guide explained that despite the name, this ice cream wasn’t affiliated with the famous Hershey Chocolate Company. Instead, Hershey’s Ice Cream was founded by a different set of Hershey brothers in the same county and the same year as the better-known company. Later, I looked it up and read about the long legal battle between the two companies over the use of the name.
After finishing our ice cream, we were taken to a viewing balcony where we could watch some of the candy-making process in action. Then, we moved to another overlook where we could see how the candy was packaged and labeled. From there, we explored the second-floor candy shop, which featured rows of clear bins filled with every kind of candy imaginable. We were surprised to find that much of it wasn’t made by Sweet Pete’s—but the sheer variety was still impressive.
Finally, we headed up to the third floor for a hands-on activity: decorating our own chocolate bars. Technically, we didn’t make the bars themselves—the chocolate was mixed elsewhere and poured into molds for us—but we got to personalize them with toppings. We filled small plastic cups with our favorite candies from the second floor, then used them to create one-of-a-kind combinations. With so many candies to choose from, we had a blast dreaming up fun and unexpected creations. While we waited for our candy bars to harden, we were released for lunch.
Happy Grill Cheese
Lisa and I decided to grab lunch just a couple of blocks away at a fun little spot called The Happy Grilled Cheese. We both went for their special of the day—a taco grilled cheese—and ordered a couple of sodas to go with it. The sandwich was rich and buttery, packed with seasoned taco meat and spicy peppers that gave it a satisfying kick. While we were eating, another couple joined us, and we ended up having a great time swapping stories about our morning adventures as we enjoyed our indulgent sandwiches.
Cummins Museum and Gardens
After lunch, we headed back to Sweet Pete’s to pick up our candy bars and catch the motorcoach. We then headed to the Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens, which opened its doors in 1961 and has since grown into the largest fine arts museum in Northeast Florida.
The museum’s permanent collection includes nearly 5,000 works of art, spanning from around 2100 BCE to the 21st century. Notable artists represented include Peter Paul Rubens, Winslow Homer, Thomas Moran, Norman Rockwell, and Romare Bearden. One highlight is the Wark Collection of Early Meissen Porcelain—a significant and beautifully displayed special collection.
We found several interactive art areas in the front lobby upon our arrival that were clearly designed with children in mind, but the adults in our group had just as much fun. There were foam building blocks, a music-and-dance room that projected movements into colorful animations on a screen, and touchscreens where we could draw with our fingers and email our creations. It was a surprisingly playful and creative way to begin the visit while waiting for our tickets.
Before exploring the main galleries, we were encouraged to check out a traveling exhibit titled Knowing the West. This thoughtful and engaging exhibit reexamines traditional portrayals of the American West, offering a more inclusive, complex, and diverse perspective. The exhibit signs often posed questions designed to challenge assumptions and prompt reflection. As we continued through the rest of the museum, we encountered a diverse range of art. I was struck by how much space was often left between pieces. Several works were labeled “Artist Was Previously Known,” a term we learned replaced “Artist Unknown” to acknowledge that the creator’s name was once known but has since been lost to history.
After touring the museum, we stepped outside to explore the 2.5 acres of historic gardens that stretch along the St. Johns River. Some parts of the garden date back to 1903 and were designed by celebrated landscape architects like the Olmsted Brothers and Ellen Biddle Shipman. These gardens, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, have preserved their original layouts for over a century. A giant oak tree anchors the space, surrounded by brick walkways, flower beds, sculptures, and fountains—all framed by the serene view of the river. The large interstate bridge in the distance slightly diminished the sense of escape, but the overall beauty of the gardens remained intact.
As we got back on the motorcoach, the staff passed out some of the leftover beers from the previous night to enjoy on the way home!
It was dark when we left the club house and we found the fountains in the lake all lit up in different colors. We decided to sit down by the lake e took our tithen returned to the campground, where we did some laundry and settled in for the evening.
Saturday, 5 April
Fernandina Beach
The caravan took a motorcoach to Amelia Island so that we could take the Cumberland Island Tour by Amelia River Cruises. This popular 2.5-hour narrated cruise departs daily at 10:00 a.m. and offers a scenic and educational journey through the waterways surrounding Amelia and Cumberland Islands. We arrived about 45 minutes early, so we had an opportunity to walk around the quaint town of Fernandina Beach before boarding.
Fernandina Beach is located on the northern tip of Amelia Island. This charming and historic coastal town is known for its laid-back atmosphere, Victorian architecture, and rich maritime heritage. It had a very walkable downtown area filled with brick-paved streets, boutiques, galleries, and family-owned restaurants. Many buildings date back to the 19th century, giving the town a timeless quality and making it a haven for history lovers. Most of the stores had not yet opened, but we window shopped and stopped by several interesting places, including the information center that was located in an old train depot with quirky statues outside, the oldest bar in Florida, the Island Art Association building decorated in glass shards,
Lisa and I found a coffee shop and enjoyed iced coffees and a strawberry scone before returning to the cruise ship.
Cumberland Island Cruise
We boarded the boat around 9:45 and snagged great seats on the top deck. The cruise began by heading north on the Amelia River, passing the large ship docks and the WestRock plant. As the second-largest paper producer globally, WestRock’s Fernandina Beach facility spans 216 acres and employs around 480 people. It produces roughly 900,000 tons of paper annually—8% of the company’s total output. The warm water discharge from the plant attracts manatees, which the guide playfully described as “a baked potato with flippers.”
We cruised past The Pippi Longstocking House, officially known as the Captain’s House, made famous as the primary filming location for the 1988 movie The New Adventures of Pippi Longstocking.
As we spotted several shrimp boats, the captain explained how their numbers have dwindled. In the early 1900s, Mediterranean immigrants—especially Greeks and Italians—transformed the shrimping industry in Fernandina by introducing trawl fishing and better nets. By mid-century, it had become one of the world’s leading shrimping ports. Today, however, only a few boats remain, edged out by cheaper farm-raised shrimp from overseas.
We then continued along the Fort Clinch State Park beaches until we reached Fort Clinch. Here, he shared how the park service attempted to reduce shore erosion but instead caused it to increase, forcing them to bring in sand from elsewhere every year. A side benefit to the erosion is that because of regular dredging of the St Marys River, as well as the sand renourishment, sharks’ teeth can often be found on these beaches. The eddys that formed have also become great places to fish. Black Drum Fish were currently in season.
We also saw piles of large stones along the shore—former ship ballast stones that were often repurposed in building homes and roads.
We passed Fort Clinch, a 19th-century brick fortress built as part of the United States’ coastal defense system. Construction began in 1847, shortly after the Second Seminole War, and though it was never fully completed, Fort Clinch was garrisoned during multiple conflicts. The Union Army occupied it in 1862 during the Civil War and used it as a base to control the southeastern coast. It was also briefly reactivated during the Spanish-American War, World War I, and World War II, primarily for surveillance and communications purposes. The captain pointed out the two different bricks used, the lower ones from local brickworks, and upper layers and buildings built by Union soldiers with bricks from New England.
We followed the St. Marys River northward, passing into Georgia and cruising along the west coast of Cumberland Island. The captain pointed out Snake Island, known for its abundance of snakes swept downstream from the Okefenokee Swamp. He also noted the region’s dramatic tides—up to six feet, with water levels changing by as much as an inch every five minutes. Anchoring your boat in the wrong spot could easily leave it stranded on the beach.
We passed the long jetties stretching 2–3 miles out from both Cumberland and Amelia Islands, designed to stabilize the inlet and protect against erosion.
Cumberland Island’s history began with the Timucua people. Spanish missionaries arrived in the 1500s, and their influence lasted until the British takeover in the 1700s. After the American Revolution, plantation owners used enslaved labor to cultivate cotton. In the late 1800s, the island entered a new era when Thomas Carnegie, brother of Andrew Carnegie, acquired large tracts of land. The family built Dungeness Mansion and several other opulent homes. Though now mostly ruins, these estates remain central to the island’s identity. In 1972, Cumberland was designated a National Seashore, preserving its wild beaches, forests, salt marshes, and historic remnants.
As we cruised along the coast, the ship’s captain pointed out the historic ruins of Dungeness, as well as feral horses, dolphins, salt marshes and coastal forests.
The Captain further discussed how the island became a protected national park despite pressures to develop it by people such as Charles Fraser, president of the Sea Island Pines Plantation on Hilton Head Island. The Carnegies and several other families still reside on the island, along with some indigenous peoples, though he said it will all eventually revert to the National Park Service. We cruised past several docks still in use. We also caught a glimpse of the only commercial business on the island, the Greyfield Inn.
As we neared the northern tip of the island, we spotted the entrance to Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base, home to Ohio-class submarines.
At that point, the narration ended, and we enjoyed the cruise back to Fernandina Beach.
Lunch at Fernandina Beach
We hurried off the boat and made a beeline for the popular restaurant, Salty Penguin, only to find a 45-minute wait. Instead, we followed another couple a bit farther from the waterfront and ended up at Peppers, a Mexican restaurant with inviting patio seating. We had hoped to try some local shrimp but settled in with cold Mexican beers and food. The company and atmosphere made it a thoroughly enjoyable meal.
After lunch, we had about an hour before we had to rejoin the group for our next excursion, so we spent some time walking through the stores that we had only been able to view through their front windows. One store sold the shark’s teeth that we saw being collected on the beach, and the cashier was nice enough to show one to us worth $5,000.
Amelia Island Museum
The motorcoach brought us to the Amelia Island Museum of History, located in the historic former Nassau County Jail. Inside, the museum offers a fascinating journey through more than 4,000 years of local history—from the Timucua Native Americans to Spanish and French explorers, pirates, and the opulence of the Victorian era. The space is divided into nine distinct exhibit areas, each highlighting a different chapter of Amelia Island’s rich past.
Our visit began with a docent-led introduction in the main exhibit hall, where we learned about Amelia Island’s unique history as the only place in the United States to have flown under eight different flags. Unfortunately, we arrived just an hour before closing, and the presentation filled the entire time, leaving no opportunity to explore the exhibits ourselves. Although I would’ve liked more time to look around, the talk was so engaging and informative that I didn’t mind. Lisa did manage to sneak away briefly and catch a glimpse of a few displays, including the old jail cells.
Farewell Dinner
The staff organized a farewell dinner at BJ’s Brewhouse for our final evening with the caravan. This popular chain has been crafting its own award-winning, original beers for over 27 years. We were all seated together at a long table, and the staff handed out Post-it notes indicating the meals we had pre-selected a few days earlier. There was a bit of initial confusion, but eventually, everyone got the right dish and settled in to enjoy the evening. Lisa and I both chose the large guacamole and bacon burger with fries. The highlight, though, was dessert: the staff surprised us with Pizookies—warm, freshly baked cookies served in mini deep-dish pans and topped with ice cream. Lisa and I went with the classic chocolate chip cookie topped with vanilla ice cream. It was the perfect sweet ending to a memorable trip
Sunday, 6 April
Hitch-up Continental Breakfast
Between 8 and 9 am the next morning, we all gathered at the tail gunners’ trailer where the staff provided warm egg croissants, sweet cake, coffee, juice, and fruit. Most of the caravan brought their camp chairs and enjoyed each other’s company until the end.
Afterwards, we packed up our camper and headed north to Savannah, GA.
