Tuesday, 25 June
Journey from Fort Peck to Havre
Today, we traveled 186 miles to Havre, MT, along US-2, the Hi-Line.
Leaving Fort Peck, we drove north 20 miles and connected with US-2 in Glasgow. From there, we followed the Milk River Valley, characterized by broad, open spaces and gently rolling terrain. Grasslands dominate this area, interspersed with occasional clusters of cottonwood trees along creeks and rivers. Wildflowers dotted the plains, adding color to the expansive views.
We passed a shed covering two rocks alongside the highway, both of which had been moved from their original locations. One was called Sleeping Buffalo Rock, which “sat as the leader of a herd of reclining buffalo envisioned in an outcrop of granite. Incised markings made in the distant past define its horns, eyes, backbone, and ribs.” The other was a “Medicine Rock,” also collected nearby.
We drove through the northern section of the Fort Belknap Reservation, established in 1888 to contain the surviving members of the once-feared Gros Ventre and Assiniboine nations. Before siding with the U.S. Army against the Blackfeet, they were one of the major powers on the northern Plains.
The Bear Paw mountains were off to our left as we approached Havre. The Battle of Bear Paw, the final engagement of the Nez Perce War of 1877, was fought nearby. Chief Joseph was forced to surrender there after a 1,200-mile running fight.
As we neared Havre, the landscape became more agricultural, with wheat, barley, and hay fields taking over much of the terrain.
Irrigated farmland contrasts with the drier, natural grasslands, particularly in the river valleys.
Evergreen Campground
Our campground was located about 4 miles south of Havre. The sites were set up in the open field area of a home. The short road into the campground had potholes. The park has restrooms and laundry. We had a back-in site next to some trees that cost us $47/night.
After setting up the camper, we headed into Havre because we had tickets for a Havre Underground Tour.
Havre
Havre is the eighth-largest city in Montana and the largest city in the Montana section of the Hi-Line, the northernmost transcontinental railway line in the United States. The nearest larger city is Great Falls, about 120 miles to the south. US-87 has its northern terminus at Havre, and US-2, running east-west, is the city’s main street.
The Milk River (a tributary of the Missouri River) runs through the town, and the Bears Paw Mountains can be seen to the south.
Havre began as a railroad siding, a low-speed track section, and then became populated by settlers from Fort Assinniboine and homesteaders enticed by James J. Hill, the builder of the Great Northern Railway across northern Montana.
Frank DeRosa Railroad Museum
The meeting place for the Havre Underground Tour was the Frank DeRosa Railroad Museum.
Frank DeRosa was a prominent figure in preserving Havre’s railroad history. He was one of the founding members of Havre Beneath the Streets, a group dedicated to preserving the town’s underground history. He played a key role in establishing the Pacific Junction Railway Club, which later contributed to the creation of the Havre Railroad Museum.
The museum, free to visitors, offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of the Great Northern Railroad, now known as BNSF. It showcases a wide range of artifacts and displays that highlight the evolution of the railroad industry. Key exhibits include a relay office, a hands-on reference library, original hand-push carts used by workers, and a working block signal that offers insight into the complex signaling systems of early railroads. The museum also features a gift shop with railroad-themed merchandise for visitors to take home.
One of the museum’s highlights is its extensive collection of model trains, intricately designed to replicate real-world scenes. The models include tiny details like dogs resting beside buildings, couples strolling through wooded parks, and even a large spiraling helix that allows trains to ascend to an upper level on the model layout. These models demonstrate the technical aspects of train operations and capture the charm and atmosphere of a bygone era in railroad history.
Havre Underground Tours
Our guide for the Havre Underground Tour met the group at the museum’s entrance, and from there, we were led to a set of stairs that descended into a building’s basement. As we made our way through the dark, cool passageways, we were taken through several interconnected basements that once housed businesses from the early 1900s. Each of these businesses was preserved to reflect how they would have looked in the past, and they included a Sporting Eagle Saloon, Long George’s Saddlery, a Pharmacy, a Bordello, a Butcher Shop, a Bakery, a Chinese Laundry, a Bank, an Opium Den, a Department Store, and a Funeral Parlor.
The reason these businesses operated underground was twofold. One significant factor was the devastating fire of 1904 that destroyed much of the city’s downtown. As the area was rebuilt, many business owners set up shop in the basements of the remaining structures. This arrangement protected the area from the weather and gave a level of security during the reconstruction phase. Another reason for the underground operations was the nature of certain businesses. Bars, speak-easies, opium dens, and brothels operated in these hidden spaces, often out of sight from the law and the public eye. Additionally, Chinese railroad workers, who faced significant racism and hostility, found refuge in “safe houses” located in these underground spaces. These areas provided them with much-needed protection from violent discrimination.
The tour was both fascinating and insightful, offering a deep dive into the city’s history and the role that these underground spaces played in shaping the community. Our guide did an excellent job sharing stories about each section, bringing the past to life and helping us understand the historical context behind these hidden businesses.
Triple Dog Brewery
After the tour, we drove to the Triple Dog Brewery, Havre’s first brewery, which opened in 2014. The taproom had a unique and inviting setup, with the tables and bar offering a full view of the equipment used to brew their beer. The space had an interesting history, as it had been remodeled from an old veterinary office. Even more character was added by the bar top, which was made from a section of the bowling alley from the nearby Chinook Eagles Club.
The name “Triple Dog” was inspired by the movie A Christmas Story, specifically the iconic moment when someone issues a “triple dog dare.” This playful reference is part of the brewery’s charm, and its slogan says it all: Havre made. Havre Kegged. Havre Pour Me Another.
We settled in and enjoyed a flight of their beers, each with its own distinct flavor. The lineup included the Duck Face IPA, a hoppy brew with a punch; Fresno Wheat, which had a refreshing, light taste; the American Mutt Pale Ale, offering a nice balance of bitterness; and a unique Gunpowder Green Tea Ale, which brought an intriguing blend of earthy and herbal notes to the table. The atmosphere was relaxed, and the beer was a perfect way to cap off a day of exploration.
Rods Drive In
The brewery didn’t serve food, so we drove to Rod’s Drive-In for a bite. When we arrived, we discovered it was a drive-thru-only establishment with three lanes to order food. One lane was explicitly dedicated to those ordering drinks or ice cream. Each lane had several speakers for placing orders. Once our food was ready, we were called forward to the pickup window.
I ordered an Ugly Burger along with a side of crispy curly fries. Lisa went for a classic order of chicken nuggets and fries. After receiving our meal, we returned to the camper to enjoy our food comfortably. It was a simple but delicious end to our day, and the drive-thru experience added a bit of local flavor to our stop.
Wednesday, 26 June
Wahkpa Chu’gn Buffalo Jump
First thing in the morning, we headed to the Wahkpa Chu’gn buffalo jump, or bison kill, located behind the Holiday Village Shopping Center near the northwest corner of Havre. Over 2,000 years old, it is one of the largest and best-preserved buffalo jumps anywhere. In prehistoric times, Native Americans would drive bison over the edge of the cliff, killing or severely injuring the animals. Afterward, the Native Americans skinned the animals and preserved the meat. The Buffalo Jump is now an archaeological site and a small tourist attraction.
The Buffalo Jump is located at the southern edge of the Havre Badlands, a badlands formation that runs alongside the Milk River to the west of the city. The limestone sediment in this area contains small fossils, including seashells and petrified wood.
Fort Assiniboine
We then headed south on US-87 and briefly stopped at Fort Assiniboine. Since there was a fee to access the site, we admired it from the street.
Established in 1879, Fort Assiniboine was a strategically positioned U.S. Army post serving as the headquarters for the District of Montana. The fort, built with locally made brick, featured officers’ quarters, barracks, a hospital, a chapel, a gymnasium, stables, and warehouses. Though no major conflicts occurred here, it aimed to protect settlers from potential raids by Sitting Bull’s Hunkpapa Sioux.
General John J. Pershing served here in the 1890s, earning the nickname “Black Jack” due to his association with the “Buffalo Soldiers.” Soldiers at the fort also worked with the Canadian Mounties to combat border smuggling.
Abandoned in 1911, the post became part of Rocky Boy’s Reservation and, in the 1950s, was purchased by the State of Montana for use by the Northern Agricultural Research Center.
Today, the fort is a mix of preserved and repurposed buildings. While some are in various stages of restoration, others show signs of wear. The area is now part of the agricultural research center, and though much is off-limits, the fort’s exterior and surrounding farmland can be viewed from the road. The site serves as a reminder of the fort’s military past and later role in agricultural development.
The Journey from Havre to Fort Benton
We headed south on US-87 toward Fort Benton, 71 miles away. Most of the route was through high plains with rolling hills and prairie grass.
Just north of Fort Benton, we drove over the Marias River near its confluence with the Missouri River. Known as Decision Point, this was where the Lewis and Clark Expedition had to decide which river would bring them to the Shoshone people and enable them to cross the Rocky Mountains.
As we approached Fort Benton, the highway moved closer to the Missouri River. Fort Benton is located on a river bluff where the Missouri River curves, with coulees (eroded valleys) and rugged bluffs rising above the valley. There were some outcrops of sedimentary rock formations.
Fort Benton Historic District
Founded in 1846 as a fur post, Fort Benton is Montana’s oldest continuously inhabited settlement. From its palisaded walls grew the most important transportation center in the Northwest. Trails led to all points of the compass, carrying goods and supplies to the U.S. and Canada. Steamboats docked at Fort Benton’s levee. Freight was loaded into giant wagons pulled by hundreds of mules and oxen to faraway places in Idaho, Washington, and Alberta. When the railroads crossed Montana and Alberta in the early 1880s, the town ended as a transportation center, but the area continued to prosper with cattle, sheep, and wheat.
The Fort Benton Historic District encompasses the city’s historic waterfront areas. Founded as a fur trading post at the head of navigation of the Missouri River, Fort Benton was one of the nation’s largest inland ports before the advent of the railroad. The city’s Front Street and waterfront area preserve elements of this history.
- Shep Memorial—Old Shep was a sheepdog who was said to have been distressed when a dead sheepherder was loaded onto a train in 1936 and sent east to his family. The dog kept vigil every day at the train tracks for 5.5 years until Shep tragically slipped on the tracks in front of an oncoming train.
- Fort Benton Bridge – the first steel bridge across the Missouri River. Currently, Now it is a pedestrian bridge.
- Fort Benton Engine House – Built in 1883. It contains the original hand pumper that came upriver by steamboat. An information center is downstairs.
- Grand Union Hotel – The Grand Union Hotel opened in 1882 and is still active.
- Lewis and Clark Memorial – The statue commemorates the Lewis & Clark Expedition and the days they spent at the mouth of Maria’s River, determining the route to the Pacific Ocean.
- Centennial Stone: Erected in 1946 as a commemorative monument to the first one hundred years of Fort Benton’s Existence.
- Veterans Memorial Park – World War I Doughboy and other memorials to fallen veterans.
- Whoop-Up Trail Monument – The Stone and plaque mark the beginning of an international trail that served the western Canadian provinces until the arrival of the railroads.
- The Keelboat Mandan is a replica of the keelboats used on the Missouri River before the arrival of the steamboats. The Mandan was built for the movie “Big Sky”.
- Captain John Mullan & The Mullan Road – A National Civil Engineering Historic Site, the Mullan Road was the first federal road in the West. It traveled from this point to Fort Walla Walla on the Columbia River.
- Thomas Francis Meagher Memorial – American soldier and statesman; Brigadier General United States Army; Raised and organized the Irish Brigade of the Army of the Potomac and personally commanded it in the Battles of Fair Oaks, Mechanicsville, Gaines’ Mill, White Oaks Swamp, Malvern Hill, Fredericksburg, Antietam, and Chancellorsville. Acting Governor of Montana from September 1865 to July 1, 1867, when he drowned in the Missouri River near the monument.
- T.C. Power and Company 1867-1932: This building is the last store of the company, which, during the steamboat days, was one of two mercantile empires that dominated Montana and the Northwest.
- The Chouteau House From a frame building to a three-story brick structure, this fabled house was one of the finest. It was operated for years by the dapper Irishman Jere Sullivan, the goodwill ambassador in Fort Benton.
- The Baker House – Home of the most powerful trading company in the region. The Bakers and Conrads controlled their vast empire from this unpretentious house.
- M. Bloodiest Block in the West: This block contained the wildest business district in the West. Saloons, dance halls, and brothels lined Front Street. Twelve of the thirteen businesses were saloons, dance halls, or brothels.
- The Rider of the Purple Sage – Heroic-sized bronze by actor/artist George Montgomery (1918-2000) and artist Gary Schildt.
- Upriver Businesses: The first mercantile and hotels were located here; only one building remains after a fire in 1950. It housed the Masonic Lodge upstairs and a mercantile on the ground floor.
- Grand Union Hotel – The finest accommodations are in Minneapolis and Seattle. It hosted the rich and the famous and was the heart of social life in Fort Benton during the golden years.
- Stockman’s National Bank – Built at the end of the steamboat era, it handled accounts of big stockmen during the days of the open range and closed in 1924.
- Wells Fargo Office – This small building was a bank, telegraph, and stage line office.
- Site of Fort Campbell: Established by the St. Louis Fur Company in 1847, Fort Campbell was just one mile from its rival, Fort Benton. Fort Campbell was operated by Alexander Harvey, who was probably the wildest, meanest trader in Upper Missouri. Following Harvey’s death, the Fort was sold to Chouteau and Company in 1860 and later occupied as a Jesuit monastery.
- Site of Fort LaBarge: In 1863, John and Joseph LaBarge, famous river pilots, along with James Harkness and other partners, established Fort LaBarge. It was located just upriver from old Fort Campbell and sold to the American Fur Company in 1863.
- Nez Perce National Historic Trail Monument – On September 21, 1877, Major Guido Ilges, the commandant at Fort Benton, got word that the Nez Perce had traveled across the Judith Basin headed for Canada. Thirteen Company F members and two volunteers loaded a mountain howitzer onto a Mackinaw boat and set off down the Missouri River. Thirty-eight volunteers and one soldier followed on horseback. They intended to protect Fort Claggett and the freight at the Cow Island steamboat landing. They were too late. Before they reached Cow Island, they could see flames in the distance. Near Cow Creek, the Nez Perce had confronted a wagon freight train hauling supplies from Cow Island to Fort Benton, taken the needed supplies, and set fire to the rest. Outnumbered, the troops turned back to Fort Benton.
- The Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument Interpretive Center at 701 7th Street opened in October 2006. Its purpose is to help visitors appreciate and understand the cultural and natural history of the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, the wild and scenic river, and their surroundings. The center also houses the river management staff and serves as a contact and registration location for boaters.
Museum of the Upper Missouri
Located near the end of the riverwalk, we bought a combination ticket at the Museum of the Upper Missouri, which also granted access to Old Fort Benton and the Museum of the Northern Great Plains.
The museum highlights the history of the Upper Missouri region from 1800 to 1900, focusing on Fort Benton’s pivotal role. Once a bustling trading post and military fort, Fort Benton became the head of steamboat navigation on the Missouri River. Between 1860 and 1887, it was known as “the toughest town in the West” due to its position as the world’s innermost port, making it a key site for the settlement of the Northwest. Exhibits bring this vital history to life, showcasing the steamboat trade, the fur trade, and the military presence that protected the fort.
One of the museum’s highlights is a detailed map of the steamboat routes from St. Louis to Fort Benton, illustrating the challenges these vessels faced navigating the Missouri River. We learned how Fort Benton was a central trading hub for goods like furs and supplies exchanged with Native American tribes, settlers, and the U.S. Army. The exhibits also highlight the diverse people who lived and worked at the fort, including traders, soldiers, and indigenous populations, offering a fascinating look into the frontier spirit that defined this bustling location.
Old Fort Benton
Next, we visited Old Fort Benton, established in 1846. Once the most successful fur and buffalo robe trading post on the Upper Missouri River, the fort was a vital hub for traders, trappers, and Native Americans exchanging valuable goods. Its strategic position along the Missouri River made it a critical gateway to the western territories, facilitating the movement of people and goods.
Fort Benton was a center of commerce and cultural exchange at its peak, playing a key role in expanding the American frontier and the fur trade. It also became a military post, providing protection for settlers and serving as a base for expeditions.
Today, Old Fort Benton is a National Historic Landmark, preserving the rich history of the fur trade era. We toured the reconstructed buildings and exhibits, giving us a vivid sense of life during this significant period in American history.
Museum of the Northern Great Plains
We then strolled down the street to the Museum of the Northern Great Plains, following yellow bison prints painted on the pavement. The museum explores the lives and culture of three generations of farmers from 1908 to 1980, offering a detailed look at their work and experiences. Spanning 30,000 square feet of exhibition space, it features a homestead village from the 1920s and an outdoor exhibit of early farming machinery.
The museum is also home to the Hornaday Smithsonian Bison and the Strand Gallery, which houses Western art from 19th-century artists like John Mix Stanley and Granville Stuart and contemporary artists such as Bob Scriver and Bob Morgan. This combination of historical exhibits and beautiful art provided a unique perspective on the culture and heritage of the Northern Great Plains.
Upper Missouri River Breaks Interpretive Center
We then drove to the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument Interpretive Center, which opened in October 2006. The center aims to help visitors understand and appreciate the cultural and natural history of the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument and its surrounding wild and scenic rivers. It offers educational displays that highlight the area’s geological features, wildlife, Native American history, and the significance of the river to early explorers like Lewis and Clark. The center provides a comprehensive overview of the region’s ecosystem, showcasing rugged canyons, cliffs, and expansive grasslands.
In addition to its educational mission, the center houses the river management staff who oversee conservation efforts. It serves as a key contact point for visitors, offering information, maps, and registration for boaters and outdoor enthusiasts. Whether you’re interested in river rafting, hiking, or learning about the region’s history and ecology, the center is an invaluable resource for anyone exploring this pristine, remote area.
Shep’s Grave
On our way out of town, we passed Shep’s grave, which is high on a hill overlooking the train depot. Shep was a famous dog known for his unwavering loyalty. In the 1930s, Shep waited for his owner, a sheep herder, at the train depot daily. Unfortunately, his owner passed away while traveling, but Shep continued to wait for him at the depot for over five years, never leaving his post. Shep’s story touched the hearts of many, and after he died in 1942, the community honored him with a grave on the hill where he had faithfully waited. The grave site has become a local landmark, a symbol of loyalty and devotion, and visitors often stop to pay their respects to the beloved dog. The peaceful location, overlooking the town and train depot, adds to the emotional significance of the spot, as it marks where Shep’s vigil ended.