Wednesday, 5 August
Page Creek Area, Cedar Bluff State Park
The drive to Cedar Bluff State Park was only two hours, but we encountered three road construction sites. Fortunately, they didn’t slow us down much. Cedar Bluff State Park is split into the Page Creek Area (southern section) and the Bluffton Area (northern section). We were headed to the Page Creek Area, the older part of the park, so we weren’t sure what to expect.
The road that connects both areas used to cross the dam, but it had recently been blocked off to construct a new bridge. As a result, the only way to get from one section of the park to the other was by taking a scenic hour-long loop around the lake. To get to the Page Creek Area, we traveled eight miles on a dirt road, adding some adventure to our journey.
Lisa navigated us to our campsite, Prickly Pear (site 461), with a spacious asphalt pad. Though our trailer faced away from the lake and was about 300 yards from the shore, we could still position our chairs near the front of the trailer for a clear, unobstructed view of the water. Plus, since we were at the end of the loop, we had the added benefit of not having any trailers on the lakeside of us.
Once we got the water and electricity set up, we enjoyed a relaxing adult beverage before heading for a ride around the park. The southern area of the park had two campgrounds with utilities, as well as numerous primitive sites. Everything was well-maintained, and the reservoir had many dead trees scattered throughout, giving it an eerie yet unique look. The shoreline varied, with some areas being sandy and others more brushy. We also noticed that many seasonal campers had blue registration tags, a common sight in the utility sites. It was clear that most of the available sites were taken by seasonal campers, leaving fewer options for transient visitors like us.
Bluffton Area, Cedar Creek State Park
After exploring the southern part of the park, we headed toward the northern section. I tried to find a shortcut on Google Maps to avoid taking the hour-long loop around the lake. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find one after about an hour of navigating dirt roads, so we took the paved route around the lake.
The paved loop was called the Smoky Valley Scenic Highway. Along the way, we passed a few historic churches and an old schoolhouse, but for the most part, the landscape was dominated by flat plains growing corn, sugar cane, millet, and fields of grazing cows. Part of the route even took us down a stretch of I-70, so I stopped for gas and grabbed a couple of Cokes from the fountain.
The Bluffton Area was smaller than the southern part of the park—about half the size—but it had at least three times as many campsites and several cabins. This section was also easily accessible without venturing down any dirt roads. Most of the utility sites were well-maintained, many with concrete pads, though some, particularly those near the beach, were a bit too close together. More than half of the sites were occupied by seasonal campers. I preferred our area because it felt less crowded and more peaceful.
On our way out, we stopped by a charming little fishing pond for children and the disabled located outside the park office. It was a cute spot, and we had fun taking photos next to the giant fishing pole.
Evening
We returned to the trailer around 7 pm. I finished setting up the grill, and Lisa cooked up some delicious hamburgers for dinner. After relaxing, we headed inside to unwind with some Netflix. The cell phone coverage was excellent, but unfortunately, we couldn’t pick up any TV stations.
In the middle of the night, a storm rolled in, and the loud rattling noise woke me up. I went outside to investigate and realized we’d forgotten to withdraw the awning. Fortunately, we dodged a bullet, and the awning survived the storm unscathed.
Thursday, 6 August
Kayak
After a breakfast of eggs and bacon, we slipped into our swimsuits and took the kayak out on the lake. On the way to the boat launch, we stopped at a dumpster to dispose of our trash and spotted a camp employee standing nearby. At the bottom of the dumpster was a frightened raccoon huddled in the corner. The employee had already contacted a coworker to help carefully scoop it out.
There was a light breeze, so paddling around was easy. The temperature was in the high 80s, but being on the water kept things feeling cooler. We saw a couple of fish jump, but what stood out was the lack of waterfowl. We spotted just one during our entire float. We launched from a dock with fewer weeds, but we still had to navigate around many dead trees to reach the open lake. It’s always a bit nerve-wracking, knowing there’s the potential for a sharp stick just beneath the surface that could puncture our little inflatable kayak.
Ellis County Historical Museum, Hays
After returning, we took showers, ate some sandwiches, collected our dirty clothes, and headed over to Hays to wash clothes and explore. Our first stop was the Ellis County Historical Museum. I had to call for an appointment, and they said they would meet us at the museum. They told us that we would be unable to see the main museum collection because it was closed because of a leaking roof. We could see their outbuildings with vintage fire trucks, a display of old horse saddles, and a reproduction Volga German house. The young curator gave us a tour of each building she unlocked before we could go in.
Old Fort Hays
We then headed to Old Fort Hays, which had a brief but significant history in the late 1800s, when it was used to protect settlers and the railroad from Native American tribes before their forced relocation to Oklahoma. Although the fort was active for only a few decades, it played a key role during a turbulent period in American history. Today, only four buildings remain: two officers’ quarters, the guardhouse, a stone blockhouse, and a small museum building.
The museum offered a modest exhibit showcasing the fort’s history, with displays on the military life and the interactions between settlers and Native Americans. Each preserved building had its own exhibit that offered insight into the fort’s daily operations. A walking path weaved through the area, with informational signs pointing out the locations of the missing buildings and explaining their original purposes. Shattered throughout the walk were metal silhouettes of soldiers, ladies, chaplains, bakers, and other figures, representing the fort’s diverse history and activities. The entire site provided an immersive experience that allowed us to reflect on the fort’s role in shaping the region during the frontier days.
Hays Bison
We then went across the street from the fort, where a park had a half dozen bison in a penned-up area. They were lying in and around a muddy pond that was only about 50 feet from the fence, so we were able to get pretty close to them.
Laundry
Since it was getting late, we decided to get our laundry done. We found a nice laundromat nearby and we took turns watching the laundry while Lisa did some grocery shopping at the nearby grocery store I filled the truck with gas and bought some sodas for us.
Evening
It was 7:30 pm when we got back to the trailer. Lisa warmed up some pre-packaged BBQ ribs on the griddle. I shucked the corn we had bought a couple of days prior in Norton, but we had to throw it away because they were rotten. Lisa made us some nice salads instead.
After cleaning up, we headed inside and watched some Netflix before bed.
Friday, August 7
Morning
The morning started partly cloudy but quickly cleared up, and it got hot. After breakfast of blueberry pancakes, we took the kayak from a different boat launch and glided along the shoreline for a couple of hours. We saw several herons along the was,y but that was about it.
When we returned, we took showers, ate some messy but tasty BLT sandwiches for lunch, and took off to do some more sightseeing.
Barbed Wire Museum
Our first stop was the Barbed Wire Museum, part of the Rush County Museum complex. This unique museum housed hundreds of different types of barbed wire, along with an extensive collection of barbed wire tools used throughout history. A knowledgeable curator guided us at the start, explaining the layout and pointing out key highlights of the collection. Afterward, we were free to explore at our own pace.
While we found the history of barbed wire and its development fascinating, what stood out to us were the special displays focused on barbed wire used in conflict zones. The exhibits highlighted its use in places like Bosnia, Vietnam, and along the Berlin Wall, showing how barbed wire has played a crucial role in agriculture, military strategy, and political control. It was striking to see how such a simple tool could take on such significant historical and emotional weight in times of conflict. The museum was a thought-provoking stop, offering technical insights and poignant reminders of the historical struggles in which the barbed wire has been involved.
Rush County Museum Complex
We then toured the rest of the Rush County Museum complex, which offered a fascinating blend of historical exhibits. The first stop was the train depot, which housed the main museum collection. This section was rich with local history and featured exhibits that explored the region’s past, including agriculture, settlement, and industry. Next, we visited the post-rock museum, which had an impressive display that demonstrated how post-rock was made and used in the area. We learned how this unique form of limestone had shaped the local architecture and landscape, with walls and buildings constructed entirely from it.
Another highlight was the old Nekoma Bank building, which was preserved in remarkable detail, with its original vault and teller windows. It was incredible to step into the past and imagine what banking life would have been like in a small Kansas town in the early 1900s. The tour also included an old schoolhouse, offering a glimpse into the educational practices of the time.
We were the only visitors that day, so the curator personally guided us through each building, sharing fascinating stories and insights about the region’s history. I was truly impressed by how well-preserved and informative the entire complex was, and it was clear that much care and effort had gone into maintaining it. It was a rewarding experience to have such a personalized tour, and we left feeling like we had gained a deeper understanding of the local heritage.
Basilica of St Fidelis
Next, we visited the town of Victoria to see the Basilica of St. Fidelis, famously known as the “Cathedral of the Plains.” This magnificent Roman Catholic church, built by German immigrants, was a testament to their faith and dedication. Completed in 1911, it could seat 1,100 people, making it the largest church west of the Mississippi River. In 2014, it was designated a minor basilica, becoming the first in Kansas and the 78th in the United States. Despite its grandeur, it is not officially a cathedral because it is not the seat of a bishop.
The basilica’s architectural beauty was awe-inspiring. Its twin towers soared 141 feet into the sky, and the exterior, constructed from native limestone, reflected the strength and permanence of the community that built it. Inside, we were captivated by the stunning stained-glass windows imported from Munich, which depicted biblical scenes in vivid detail. The high vaulted ceilings, intricately carved altars, and the peaceful ambiance invited quiet reflection.
We spent time exploring the church’s interior and exterior, taking in its artistry and historical significance. We admired the surrounding grounds outside, which added to the serene and majestic atmosphere. The Basilica of St. Fidelis was a true gem of the Midwest, and we left feeling moved by the devotion and craftsmanship that brought this incredible structure to life.
St Fidelis Cemetery
After taking a photo of the large memorial to the Volga Germans, known as the “Pioneer Family,” across the street from the church, we headed to the nearby St. Fidelis Cemetery. This cemetery is renowned for its unique headstones made of iron and steel ornamental crosses, a distinctive tradition brought by German immigrants from the Volga region of Russia.
The intricate craftsmanship of the metal crosses was striking, each telling its own story through ornate designs, religious symbols, and heartfelt inscriptions. Many of the crosses were hand-forged, reflecting the artistry and faith of the families who placed them there. Walking through the cemetery, we felt a deep sense of history and reverence for the pioneers who had built lives in this community against incredible odds.
Though the cemetery was not very large, it was rich with character and history. We took our time exploring the rows of graves, pausing to read inscriptions and admire the artistry of the crosses.
Grants Cemetary
While in Victoria, we also visited Grant’s Cemetery, a historical site notable for its unique tomb and pyramid dedicated to George Grant. Grant, a Scottish immigrant, played a pivotal role in American agriculture by introducing the Angus breed to the United States. In 1873, he imported four Black Aberdeen Angus bulls from Scotland to Victoria, Kansas, forever changing the livestock industry in the country.
The centerpiece of the cemetery is the pyramid-shaped monument built in honor of Grant, a striking structure that stands out against the prairie landscape. Its design reflects Grant’s Scottish heritage and symbolizes the enduring legacy of his contributions. The tomb and pyramid are surrounded by a serene setting that invites quiet reflection.
We walked around the site, read the inscriptions, and learned more about Grant’s life and his bold vision to improve cattle ranching in the United States. His introduction of the Angus breed laid the foundation for one of America’s most popular beef cattle breeds, valued for its quality meat and hardiness.
Evening
Afterward, we headed back to the trailer arriving around 7:30. After dinner we had so-so internet the previous night, we were unable to get a good data connection so that we could watch Netflix that evening.
Saturday, August 8
Lisa fixed French toast for breakfast, and instead of kayaking, we decided to relax this morning and eat an early dinner before going to North Park for the S’morefest. Since we were jumping the next day, I packed up much of our outside camping equipment, and Lisa attacked the dust we collected inside the trailer.
S’More Fest
Around 3 p.m., we headed to North Park for the 1st Annual S’morefest. We weren’t sure what to expect, especially given concerns about being in crowds during the ongoing pandemic. Since the event wasn’t set to start until 6 p.m., we brought our swimsuits in case we decided to spend some time at the beach beforehand.
On the way, we discovered a dirt road shortcut that shaved about 30 minutes off what would have been a one-hour drive. Once we arrived at the park, our first stop was the office, where we picked up our pre-ordered festival T-shirts. While there, we tried to locate a geocache reportedly near the office, but we weren’t able to find it.
Next, we headed to the beach area. After determining it wasn’t too crowded, we decided to swim. The sandy beach, though inviting, was uneven, with large ruts throughout. The sand didn’t extend into the water and the bottom was muddy and full of weeds. Despite the choppy, murky water, the swim was refreshing in the intense 100-degree heat, and we enjoyed cooling off.
After an hour or so, we used the shower house to rinse off and change into our new festival T-shirts before making our way to the S’morefest shelter. The event itself turned out to be small and intimate, with only two booths set up. However, both were charmingly decorated and offered creative s’mores samples. One booth featured s’mores made with wontons, while the other showcased inventive combinations like apple slices, peanut butter, and other unique ingredients.
The festival had more staff than participants, and though no one wore masks, we ensured we socially distanced ourselves as much as possible. We chatted with the booth attendants, enjoyed the free samples, and stayed to watch the judging and awards presentation. Before leaving, we received a fun trail mix of graham crackers, Hershey morsels, and mini marshmallows. Toward the end of the event, a few latecomers arrived with additional s’mores recipes, which we also tried.
Though the event was smaller than anticipated, we appreciated the creativity and effort that went into it, and it made for a sweet and memorable way to wrap up the day.
Cedar Bluff Overlook
We then headed home and took the long paved route so we could get some gas for our jump the next day. We also stopped off at a scenic overlook that was on some sheer limestone cliffs.
Evening
We got back to the trailer around 8:30 pm. After relaxing for a bit, we hit the bed early.
Sunday, August 9
The morning started off comfortably cool, but by 9 a.m., the heat was already building. The forecast promised another sweltering 100-degree day.
After enjoying our morning coffee and a light breakfast, we packed the trailer and headed to the dump station around 9:30 a.m. Thankfully, we arrived first because, not long after, three other trailers showed up. Unfortunately, the station could only accommodate one trailer at a time, so the line quickly grew.
Our black tank was full, even though we had barely used it, and very little came out during the dump. Usually, we can go four to five days without emptying the tank. These tank sensors are infamous for being inaccurate, and it seemed likely something was stuck to the gauge, causing a false reading. Despite my efforts to flush it thoroughly, the sensor still read 2/3 full when we finished.
When we hit the road at 10 a.m., the temperature had already climbed significantly, signaling the scorching day ahead.