Tuesday, September 3
The Journey from Revelstoke to Radium Hot Springs
Today, we traveled 156 miles from Revelstoke to Radium Hot Springs, a scenic journey through some of British Columbia’s most stunning landscapes.
Our day began heading east on the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1), taking us through Glacier National Park for one last look at the breathtaking Selkirk Mountains. The drive through the park was captivating, with dense forests, towering peaks, and dramatic mountain vistas lining the route. We passed through six avalanche tunnels, also called snowsheds, marvels of engineering designed to protect the highway from frequent avalanches in this rugged terrain. These structures are strategically placed in high-risk zones and allow traffic to move safely through one of Canada’s snowiest regions.
As we climbed and descended through the rugged terrain, we passed Rogers Pass, a critical link in Canada’s transcontinental transportation network. Rogers Pass is rich in history, named after Major A.B. Rogers, who discovered this key mountain pass in 1881 while scouting a route for the Canadian Pacific Railway.
Continuing east, we entered Yoho National Park, home to jagged peaks, roaring waterfalls, and the famed Kicking Horse River, known for its emerald-green waters. The park provided us with more opportunities to admire the majestic Canadian Rockies. Shortly afterward, we crossed the Columbia River and entered the charming town of Golden, nestled in the Rocky Mountain Trench.
In Golden, we left Highway 1 and headed south on BC-95, which runs alongside the Columbia River. As we transitioned out of the alpine environment, the scenery shifted noticeably. The towering peaks gave way to the wide, tranquil expanse of the Columbia Valley, characterized by rolling hills, vast open fields, and the sprawling Columbia Wetlands. These wetlands, one of North America’s longest intact wetland systems, are a critical habitat for numerous birds, fish, and wildlife species.
As we drove southward, the landscape became a tapestry of farmlands, rural communities, and small towns, interspersed with glimpses of the Rocky Mountain Trench. The road meandered alongside the Columbia River, its slow-moving waters shimmering under the afternoon sun.
Our journey ended in Radium Hot Springs, a quaint town famous for its natural hot springs and its location at the gateway to Kootenay National Park. The relaxing warmth of the springs awaited us, a fitting end to a day filled with the beauty and diversity of British Columbia’s landscapes.
Canyon RV Resort
Our campground was nestled in a small valley near the Kootenay River, just a few minutes from Radium Hot Springs. The descent to the campground involved navigating a steep gravel road. Our site was precisely the length of our trailer, which meant careful maneuvering. We had no room to park the truck, so I got approval to park in an unused reserved parking spot near our site. The steep entrance road loomed above our site, raising concerns about potential rockfalls onto our camper. Although we had a concrete patio, one of the corners closest to our door was cracked and sunken, creating a trip hazard.
The campground itself was quite pleasant. A small creek meandered through it, and for an additional fee, we could have secured a back-in spot near the water.
Radium Hot Springs
Radium Hot Springs is a charming Columbia Valley village with approximately 800 residents. Known as the southern gateway to Kootenay National Park, the town is named after the nearby Radium Hot Springs Pools. This natural hot mineral water attraction has been drawing visitors for generations. These soothing, mineral-rich pools are located just outside the village, within the boundaries of Kootenay National Park, and offer a relaxing experience amidst stunning mountain scenery.
Tourism is the lifeblood of Radium Hot Springs, as evidenced by the abundance of hotels, motels, and bed-and-breakfasts catering to travelers exploring the Rockies. The village also boasts various restaurants, cafes, and local shops.
Radium Hot Springs is famous for its bighorn sheep population, a unique and cherished feature of the village. These majestic animals roam freely in the surrounding area and are often spotted wandering through the village, delighting locals and visitors. Radium hosts the Headbanger Festival every fall, celebrating these iconic animals and educating people about their behaviors, particularly the dramatic head-butting battles between rams during mating season.
Kootenay National Park
After setting up the camper, we hopped into the truck and explored Kootenay National Park.
Radium Hot Springs sits at the southern entrance of this breathtaking park, part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks, a UNESCO World Heritage Site encompassing Banff, Jasper, and Yoho National Parks. Kootenay National Park spans 543 square miles and offers a striking diversity of landscapes, ranging from the dry, semi-arid southern regions to lush, forested valleys in the north. The park’s elevation varies dramatically, from about 2,950 feet at its lowest points to 11,155 feet at its highest peaks, creating various ecosystems and climates.
Sinclair Canyon
Sinclair Canyon was our dramatic introduction to Kootenay National Park. As we drove into the park, the road wound through towering rock walls that seemed to close around us. The steep cliffs are composed of red argillite and dolomite, giving the canyon a striking, warm-toned appearance that contrasts sharply with the surrounding greenery. The canyon narrows significantly at specific points, creating a tunnel-like effect that amplifies its grandeur.
The canyon’s unique geology is the result of millions of years of erosion by Sinclair Creek, which continues to flow through the gorge, carving its way deeper into the rock. This natural passage serves as the southern gateway to the park, and the walls rise so abruptly from the road that it feels as though you’re driving through the heart of the mountains themselves. The dramatic entrance sets the tone for the natural wonders that lie ahead in the park.
Olive Lake
Olive Lake was our first stop inside Kootenay National Park, about six miles from the southern entrance along the highway. This small, serene lake, nestled in a lush forest, is a peaceful oasis surrounded by towering trees and moss-covered ground. Its crystal-clear waters reflected the greenery around it.
We explored the short, easy walking trail that circled the lake, which allowed us to enjoy its beauty from various vantage points. Along the trail, interpretive signs provided insight into the lake’s ecology, including the plants and animals that thrive in this pristine environment. We learned that Olive Lake is a kettle lake, formed thousands of years ago by retreating glaciers. Its still waters are sustained by snowmelt and groundwater.
Kootenay River Valley Viewpoint
We then continued to the Kootenay Valley Viewpoint. This breathtaking pullout offered panoramic views of the vast Kootenay River Valley, a dramatic landscape framed by rugged peaks and dense forests. The viewpoint is perched at an elevation, allowing us to fully appreciate the scale and beauty of the surrounding wilderness.
From this vantage point, we could see the Kootenay River winding its way through the valley floor, its glimmering waters contrasting with the vibrant green of the surrounding forest. The valley itself is a patchwork of untouched wilderness and areas showing signs of regrowth from past wildfires, providing a glimpse into the park’s natural cycle of renewal.
Informational signs at the viewpoint highlighted the area’s geography and history, offering insight into the valley’s formation during the last Ice Age and the Kootenay River’s role in shaping the landscape. They also detailed the wildlife commonly found in the valley, including elk, black bears, and various bird species, which thrive in the diverse habitats of the river and its surrounding forest.
The towering peaks of the Mitchell and Vermilion Ranges formed a dramatic backdrop, their rocky summits often dusted with snow, even in the warmer months. The sweeping vistas and serene atmosphere made this stop a perfect introduction to the stunning scenery that defines Kootenay National Park.
Across the valley, we could see the 50 km of crisscross trails maintained by the Nipika Mountain Resort used for Nordic skiing, mountain biking, and snowshoeing.
Simpson River Viewpoint
Simpson River Viewpoint allowed us to get close to the striking blue-green waters of the glacier-fed Kootenay River.
The Simpson River, a Kootenay River tributary, originates from the glacial meltwaters of the surrounding mountains. Its vibrant color resulted from finely ground glacial sediment called “rock flour,” which shimmered in the sunlight and created a stark contrast against the darker tones of the riverbanks and forested slopes.
A short trail led from the parking area to the river’s edge, where you could cross a bridge and view the swift current carving through smooth river stones. Informational signage near the viewpoint explained the river’s role in shaping the valley and its importance to the ecosystem, including providing habitat for fish and other wildlife.
Towering peaks in the background framed the scene, while charred tree trunks from past wildfires stood as reminders of the area’s resilience and renewal.
Vermillion Crossing
We pulled into a picnic area across the highway from the now-closed Kootenay Park Lodge, a historic site that once served as a hub for travelers exploring Kootenay National Park.
Like many in the park, the Vermilion River is glacier-fed, giving its waters a striking blue-green hue that shimmered under the sunlight. The river crossed under the road and wound gracefully through a small rocky gorge, its swift current carving past rocky banks dotted with smooth, rounded stones. White cliffs with interesting erosion patterns could be seen on the sides of the gorge on the other side of the bridge. The contrast of the vibrant river against the surrounding forest and mountain peaks made for an incredibly picturesque scene.
Numa Falls
We continued our journey to Numa Falls, a captivating cascade-style waterfall where the Vermilion River narrows and thunders through a tight canyon. Though not exceptionally tall, the falls themselves are a powerful display of glacial meltwater surging with relentless energy. The water’s vibrant blue-green color, a signature of its glacial origin, added to the spectacle.
The surrounding rocky banks are one of the most striking features around Numa Falls. Smooth, rounded boulders and jagged rock formations line the river, shaped over centuries by the rushing water. The rocky terrain is speckled with smaller pebbles and gravel carried by the river’s strong currents, creating a mosaic of textures and hues. In some places, the river has carved out natural “tubs” or potholes in the rock—circular depressions formed by the swirling of water and sediment.
A footbridge spans the river just above the falls, offering an excellent view of the cascading water from above. From the bridge, we could see the dynamic interplay of water as it surged and swirled through the narrow gorge, passing over and around these intriguing formations. The contrast of the vibrant water against the darker stone made the scene even more dramatic.
North Entrance
The park road culminates at the north entrance on Vermilion Pass, sitting at 5,510 feet. This location is the park’s northernmost point and marks the Continental Divide, the border between Alberta and British Columbia, and the gateway into Banff National Park. Here, we paused to take in the magnificent views before turning back toward Radium Hot Springs.
On our return journey, we caught sight of Stanley Glacier, perched high on the southern face of Mount Stanley. The glacier sparkled in the afternoon light, a reminder of the park’s ancient icefields and the forces that have shaped this rugged land over millennia.
The drive through Kootenay National Park was truly spectacular, with every twist and turn revealing more of the park’s stunning beauty. The scenery was breathtaking, from towering peaks and lush forests to shimmering rivers and serene valleys. We were constantly in awe of the natural splendor surrounding us, making it a memorable experience.
Anticipating our return the next day, we were excited about taking a slower, more leisurely drive through the park. We looked forward to exploring more attractions at a relaxed pace, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the tranquility and majesty of Kootenay fully. With plans to visit scenic viewpoints, hike tranquil trails, and perhaps even enjoy a picnic by a picturesque river, the thought of our return filled us with anticipation and a sense of adventure.
Radium Hot Springs
When we arrived back at Radium Hot Springs, we found some Bighorn Sheep grazing in one of the parks.
Wednesday, September 4
Radium Hot Springs Visitor Center
Before driving into the park, we stopped by the Radium Hot Springs Visitor Center. Besides providing travel information, the visitor center featured a small but thoughtfully curated exhibit area. This space offered a deeper understanding of the region’s rich cultural and natural heritage.
The exhibit included information about the Indigenous peoples who have lived in the area for thousands of years, including the Ktunaxa and Secwépemc Nations. Artifacts, photos, and interpretive panels highlighted their cultural practices, traditional knowledge, and deep connection to the land. Visitors could learn about the Indigenous use of local plants for food, medicine, and tools and their seasonal movements through the valleys and mountains.
The geology section of the exhibit explored the unique formation of the Canadian Rockies. It detailed how these iconic mountains were shaped over millions of years by colliding with tectonic plates, glacial erosion, and sedimentary processes. A 3D model of the mountain ranges provided a tactile way to visualize the dramatic folds and peaks. At the same time, diagrams explained the process of mountain building and the role of glaciers in carving the valleys.
The flora and fauna displays showcased the park’s incredible biodiversity, ranging from the alpine meadows to the dense forests. Information on native species such as grizzly bears, mountain goats, and bighorn sheep was accompanied by photos and audio clips of their calls. A section on wildflowers included vivid photographs and details about the park’s seasonal blooms, while another area highlighted the challenges wildlife face due to climate change and human impact.
Through these exhibits, the visitor center provided us with a comprehensive look at the interconnectedness of the park’s natural and cultural elements.
Kootenay National Park
Kootenay River Day Use Area
After entering Kootenay National Park, our first stop was the Kootenay River Day Use Area, where we were immediately enveloped in the park’s natural splendor. The Kootenay River, framed by the majestic peaks of the Rocky Mountains, rushed past banks adorned with smooth pebbles and larger stones. This picturesque spot provided convenient access to the glacier-fed, blue-green waters, allowing us to marvel at its beauty up close.
This area also offered a few picnic tables and benches, making it an ideal spot to relax and enjoy the breathtaking views. We took a moment to appreciate the peacefulness of the surroundings before continuing our journey deeper into the park.
Dolly Varden Day Use Area
Our next stop was the Dolly Varden Day-Use Area, which featured a large, interactive display explaining the importance of wildlife underpasses in preserving the region’s biodiversity. These underpasses are carefully designed structures that allow animals to cross roads safely, reducing the risk of vehicle collisions and ensuring the connectivity of vital habitats. In a park like Kootenay, where roads cut through critical wildlife corridors, these crossings are indispensable for protecting species and maintaining healthy ecosystems.
The display showcased various examples of wildlife that benefit from these underpasses, including deer, elk, bears, and smaller creatures like porcupines and foxes. It also highlighted the engineering and design considerations that make these crossings effective, such as natural landscaping, placement, and structure size, to accommodate different species.
The area is named after the Dolly Varden trout, a native species in the region. Nearby, a specially designed wildlife crossing allowed the trout to pass beneath the highway, enabling them to swim up Dolly Varden Creek to their spawning grounds.
The combination of thoughtful engineering and ecological insight demonstrated at this site underscored the park’s commitment to coexistence between nature and human development. We left with a deeper appreciation for the steps taken to protect the park’s diverse wildlife.
Paint Pots
The Paint Pots were a fascinating natural and cultural feature of Kootenay National Park, formed by cold mineral springs that rise to the surface and deposit rich iron oxide minerals. These deposits create vibrant hues, ranging from bright oranges and deep reds to yellows and earthy browns, giving the area its name. The contrast of these vivid colors against the surrounding forest and wetlands made the Paint Pots a striking sight.
This site held great historical and cultural significance. Indigenous peoples of the region have used the ochre—naturally colored clay—for thousands of years in painting, ceremonies, and other traditional practices. The ochre from the Paint Pots was also traded with other Indigenous groups, making it a valuable resource. Later, European settlers mined the ochre for use in paints and other products, and remnants of old mining equipment could still be seen today.
We followed a short, well-maintained trail from the parking area off Highway 93/95 to reach the Paint Pots. The trail was about one-mile round trip, winding through a lush forest before opening up to wetlands and the ochre-stained landscape. Along the way, interpretive signs provided insights into the geological and cultural history of the site.
Marble Canyon
We then drove to Marble Canyon. a stunning natural wonder carved by Tokumm Creek through limestone. The creek has shaped the canyon over millennia, resulting in dramatic cliffs, deep gorges, and spectacular rock formations. The canyon walls reveal rock layers, including ancient marine fossils, offering a fascinating glimpse into the region’s geological past. The turquoise waters of Tokumm Creek flow through the narrow gorge, creating a striking contrast against the rugged limestone cliffs. The vibrant blue water, surrounded by the stark white and gray stone, makes for an incredibly mesmerizing scene when bathed in sunlight.
We took the 1-mile trail, which winds through the canyon and offers several bridges and viewpoints, giving us access to different parts of the canyon. The trail includes several lookout points that provide fantastic views of the creek’s winding path through the narrow gorge. As we walked, interpretive signs along the trail helped us understand the geology of the canyon, the history of the area, and the diverse ecosystems that thrive in this unique environment.
Along the way, we marveled at the intricate limestone formations, including deep cracks and pools filled with crystal-clear water. We also learned about the ongoing process of erosion, which continues to shape the landscape.
Banff National Park
The Journey from Kootenay National Park to Banff
We exited Kootenay National Park through the north gate, which also marks the Continental Divide, the border between Alberta and British Columbia, and the beginning of Banff National Park. Continuing on Highway 93, we followed the scenic route toward Banff Village, with the mountains around us becoming even more imposing as we neared our destination.
At Castle Junction, Highway 93 merges with the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1). With its clear, turquoise waters, the Bow River flowed parallel to the highway, providing a peaceful backdrop to our drive. We passed Castle Mountain, its flat-topped summit standing out against the sky, offering a striking visual reminder of the rugged beauty of the Rockies.
As we continued, the Sawback Range loomed in the distance, its jagged peaks cutting into the skyline. The scenery shifted as we neared Banff, and the Bow Valley began to widen, offering sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. The iconic peaks of Mount Rundle and Cascade Mountain rose high, dominating the landscape as we approached the village. These two peaks are some of the most recognized landmarks in Banff National Park, standing as natural sentinels to the valley below.
As we got closer to Banff, the valley floor became broader, giving way to open meadows and dense forests, with occasional glimpses of wildlife along the way. We also passed under several wildlife crossing bridges designed to ensure safe passage for animals across the highway. Unlike the underpasses in Kootenay National Park, these crossings were elevated above the road, likely due to the broader road corridors in Banff. These wildlife-friendly structures are crucial for protecting the area’s biodiversity while allowing for the safe movement of animals between habitats.
Banff Village
Upon arriving in Banff, we parked in the free lot by the train station and strolled to the vibrant downtown area. We wandered down Banff Avenue, the main artery of the village, bustling with shops and restaurants. We walked to the Banff Ave Brewing Company, where we snagged a table on the second-floor balcony overlooking the street.
The spot was perfect for people-watching, although the balcony’s flowers did attract quite a few bees. We shared a leisurely lunch and sipped on a “Ride or Dry” lager, enjoying the lively atmosphere below. Refreshed, we continued our exploration of the charming village.
Discovering the Banff Park Museum was closed, we decided to continue our walk by crossing the Bow River via the Banff Avenue bridge. The stroll along the river’s edge was picturesque, with the sound of flowing water adding to the serene ambiance. We then crossed the river again at the Nancy Pauw Pedestrian Bridge, where we stumbled upon a small, charming craft show in Central Park.
After exploring the local crafts and enjoying the creative displays, we returned to our truck and returned to Radium Hot Springs through the scenic Kootenay National Park. The drive was peaceful, with the park’s stunning landscapes providing a perfect backdrop to our journey.
Hot Springs
We intended to finish our visit to Kootenay National Park by unwinding in the hot springs in the village of Radium Hot Springs, which lies at the park’s southern entrance. Renowned for its soothing mineral-rich waters. The hot springs are housed in a beautifully maintained facility with a large hot pool, a cooler swimming pool, and modern amenities like changing rooms and picnic areas. The pools are set against a backdrop of dramatic cliffs and lush forests, creating a serene and relaxing atmosphere.
However, upon our arrival, we were informed that a mechanical problem had forced the hot springs to close for the evening. Saddened we continued back to our campground.
Screamers Ice Cream
We then decided to stop at Screamers, an adorable ice cream shop that had caught our eye since we arrived in Radium Hot Springs. Screamers charmed us with its nostalgic, diner-style decorations and a jukebox playing classic tunes. With its checkered floors and vintage signs, the retro atmosphere evoked a delightful nostalgia.
The shop boasted an impressive array of unique and intriguing ice cream flavors, and deciding what to try was challenging. Settling on our selections, we enjoyed our ice cream while soaking in the lively ambiance of Screamers. It was a sweet and nostalgic interlude that added an extra layer of joy to our day.
We then returned to our camper to prepare for our next trip, which would take us back into the United States to Glacier National Park in Montana.