Sunday, 1 September
The Journey from Clinton to Deadman Junction Trading Post
Today, we moved from Clinton, BC, to Revelstoke, BC, a distance of 215 miles, showcasing a diverse array of landscapes that highlighted the natural beauty of British Columbia.
We began by heading south on BC-97 toward Cache Creek. Leaving Clinton, the scenery started to shift, with the dense, high-elevation forests gradually giving way to open grasslands. Small clusters of trees dotted the rolling hills, and the golden tones of the grasslands contrasted beautifully with the deep greens of the forest remnants.
As we neared Cache Creek, the transformation became even more pronounced. The forests thinned out entirely, revealing a semi-arid environment defined by sagebrush, dry grasses, and rugged, rocky bluffs. As we descended into the Thompson River Valley, the elevation steadily dropped, and the air became noticeably drier.
At Cache Creek, we turned east onto the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) and began following the Thompson River through its namesake valley. The river was a lifeline for the arid landscape, with its shimmering waters bordered by narrow ribbons of green vegetation. These lush areas along the riverbanks starkly contrasted the surrounding terrain, dominated by rolling plateaus, dusty hills, and abundant sagebrush.
Occasionally, we passed stretches of farmland where irrigation had transformed the otherwise dry soil into green pastures and vibrant fields. These patches of cultivated land stood out vividly against the rugged backdrop of the valley’s natural landscape.
Deadman Junction Ranch
Approximately 20 miles from Cache Creek, we stopped at the fascinating Deadman Junction Trading Post.
In 2011, Matt Sandvoss brought history to life by constructing an old western town based on replicas of historic buildings found throughout the United States and Canada. This recreated town, reminiscent of the late 1800s, features a trading post, a saloon, a county jail, a drug store, and an undertaker’s shop, among other buildings. Matt’s impressive collection of old guns and artifacts from that era is so extensive that he often rents it out to movie producers for use as props. This unique setting has already been used for filming Western movies and was featured on Canadian Pickers. Additionally, it boasts a fantastic gift shop.
We met Matt in the trading post, where we purchased our admission tickets. He provided us with an overview of the town before taking us outside to show off a recluse spider he had discovered that morning. Afterward, he returned to the trading post, allowing us to explore the town at our own pace. Upon returning to the trading post, we listened to Matt share captivating stories about the various items he had collected and sold. He mentioned that most of his current sales were wholesale, with bison skulls particularly popular.
Kamloops Lake
Leaving Deadman Junction Trading Post, we continued southeast along the Trans-Canada Highway (CA-1), traveling through an evolving and captivating landscape. As we entered the Thompson River Valley, the terrain shifted between rugged, forested hills to a more open and arid environment. Sagebrush dominated the scenery, accompanied by dry grasslands and occasional patches of ponderosa pines. Rolling plateaus and rocky bluffs rose in the distance.
The closer we approached Kamloops Lake, the more pronounced the semi-arid climate became. The valley’s wide expanse offered sweeping views of the Thompson River, weaving its way through the arid hills, bordered by narrow ribbons of green vegetation along its banks. This splash of color hinted at the life sustained by the river in an otherwise dry and rugged landscape.
We reached a scenic overlook with a breathtaking view of Kamloops Lake, a dazzling expanse of water framed by the arid grasslands and dramatic cliffs of the Thompson River Valley. Spanning approximately 18 miles in length and up to a mile in width, the lake is fed by the Thompson River, its vibrant blue and green hues reflecting the sunlight. The shimmering surface stood in striking contrast to the rugged terrain surrounding it, creating a serene beauty amid the stark desert-like environment. The shoreline of Kamloops Lake was dotted with scattered vegetation, and we could see rolling hills stretching into the distance.
Kamloops Lake to Revelstoke
From the Kamloops Lake Overlook, we resumed our journey east on Trans-Canada Highway 1, witnessing a striking transformation in the landscape. The arid, semi-desert terrain gradually gave way to a more temperate climate, marked by fertile valleys and lush greenery. This dramatic change signaled our approach to the scenic region surrounding Shuswap Lake.
Shuswap Lake, renowned for its complex system of arms and inlets, boasts over 870 miles of winding shoreline, offering some of the most picturesque views in British Columbia. The surrounding terrain featured forested hills and distant mountains, creating a serene and idyllic setting. As we traveled through Sicamous, nestled between Shuswap Lake and Mara Lake, we discovered why it’s known as the “Houseboat Capital of Canada.” This charming town is a premier destination for houseboating enthusiasts, and the abundance of billboards advertising houseboats for rent was a testament to its popularity.
Leaving Sicamous behind, we entered the Eagle River Valley, a picturesque route bordered by dense forests and the imposing peaks of the Monashee Mountains. The highway meandered alongside the Eagle River, which sparkled in the sunlight as it wound through the valley. The further we traveled, the more the landscape transitioned into a true alpine environment.
As we climbed in elevation, the forests became increasingly dense, dominated by towering coniferous trees. The air grew cooler, and the road offered glimpses of snow-capped peaks in the distance. Approaching Revelstoke, the terrain became even more dramatic, with the Selkirk Mountains rising majestically to the north and the Monashee Mountains to the south.
Revelstoke
Revelstoke is a picturesque town nestled between the Selkirk and Monashee mountain ranges along the Columbia River. Known for its stunning natural surroundings, rich history, and vibrant outdoor culture, Revelstoke attracts visitors year-round for its mix of adventure, scenic beauty, and small-town charm.
The town is a hub for outdoor enthusiasts. In the winter, Revelstoke is famous for world-class skiing and snowboarding at Revelstoke Mountain Resort, which boasts the longest vertical descent in North America. The area also offers exceptional backcountry skiing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing opportunities. In warmer months, Revelstoke transforms into a haven for hiking, mountain biking, and whitewater rafting.
Revelstoke has a rich history tied to the Canadian Pacific Railway, which played a significant role in the town’s development in the late 19th century. The railway brought workers, settlers, and industry to the area, leading to the establishment of the town in 1885. The construction of the railway through the challenging mountainous terrain was a remarkable engineering feat and pivotal in connecting the country.
Boulder Mountain Resort
We had reservations at Boulder Mountain Resort, a beautiful resort with a lodge, cabins, glamping, and campsites just a couple miles from Revelstoke. The entrance is right on Trans-Canadian Highway 1, and there was no turnoff. We were also between the highway and some railroad tracks and could hear each other occasionally.
We were assigned backin site #33. Our site was fairly level and had full hookups.
Revelstoke National Park
After setting up our camper, we eagerly headed to Revelstoke National Park, just north of Revelstoke. Established in 1914, the park spans 100 square miles of rugged mountains, deep valleys, and pristine alpine meadows. The highlight of the park is the Meadows in the Sky Parkway, a scenic drive that ascends to the top of Mount Revelstoke, reaching an elevation of 8,400 feet. Along the way, numerous viewpoints invite us to stop and admire the breathtaking vistas, with hiking trails along the route and at the summit.
Tall trees lined the road for most of the drive, restricting our views to the established viewpoints. We decided to drive straight to the top of the mountain first and then stop at the viewpoints on our way back down.
Given how busy the park usually is, we were fortunate to find a parking spot at the end of the road. From there, we embarked on a two-mile uphill hike to a meadow just below the summit. The meadow offered panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys and was dotted with more trails and several viewpoints. It was a stunning expanse of wildflowers, vibrant greens, and soft grasses. It created a serene and picturesque landscape. Informative signs along the trail provided fascinating insights into the local flora and fauna.
We continued on a trail to the summit, where we found a fascinating fire lookout. Outside the lookout were interpretive panels that gave us insights into the history of wildfire management in the park and the challenges faced by the brave individuals who work to protect this pristine environment.
Standing at the summit near the fire lookout station, we were rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. The sight of the vast, unspoiled wilderness stretched out before us was awe-inspiring.
On our return journey, we stopped at several overlooks that offered stunning views of Revelstoke and the Columbia River Valley, framed by the majestic Selkirk and Monashee mountain ranges. Each stop provided a new perspective and a chance to take in the area’s incredible beauty.
After leaving the park, we returned to our camper.
Mushrooms!
Sunday, 2 September
Revelstoke
Our first stop in Revelstoke was its charming downtown area, a vibrant mix of history, art, and community spirit. The streets were lined with beautifully preserved historic buildings dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries when Revelstoke served as a vital hub for the Canadian Pacific Railway. The architecture showcased a mix of Edwardian and Victorian influences, reflecting the town’s rich heritage.
As we strolled, we noticed a variety of quirky and artistic sculptures scattered throughout the downtown area. These pieces added a creative flair and celebrated the town’s connection to nature, history, and culture. The atmosphere was lively, with local shops, boutiques, and cozy cafes inviting exploration.
The tantalizing aromas of freshly baked bread and coffee wafted through the streets, sparking our appetite. We decided to stop at The Modern Bakeshop and Cafe, a local favorite known for its delicious offerings. We ordered a freshly baked muffin and a hearty breakfast sandwich, and both were delicious.
When we returned to the truck, we drove to the Revelstoke Tourist Information Center to see if they had any national park magnets, but they did not sell any.
Revelstoke Canyon Dam
We then drove to the Revelstoke Canyon Dam Visitor Center, which opened at 10 a.m. This impressive structure is a marvel of engineering and a critical component of sustainable energy production in British Columbia.
Construction of the dam began in 1978 and was completed in 1984. It was built to harness the energy of the Columbia River and plays a vital role in the Columbia River Treaty, an agreement between Canada and the United States for coordinated water management and power generation along the river. The treaty ensures flood control, efficient hydropower production, and shared benefits for both nations.
The Revelstoke Dam is a concrete gravity dam that stands 575 feet tall, making it one of the tallest dams in Canada. It stretches 400 feet across the Columbia River and creates Revelstoke Lake, an 81-mile-long reservoir that provides a stunning backdrop to the region. The dam’s hydroelectric facility can produce 2,480 megawatts of electricity, enough to power over 2 million homes annually.
At the Visitor Center, we purchased tickets for a guided tour. The tour began with an overview of the dam’s history and purpose through interactive displays and exhibits. These included detailed models of the dam, information on the Columbia River Treaty, and insights into its construction challenges.
Next, our guide took us to the observation deck via a high-speed elevator. We enjoyed panoramic views of the dam, Revelstoke Lake, and the surrounding Selkirk and Monashee mountain ranges from the deck. Seeing the massive dam structure against the backdrop of rugged peaks and the shimmering reservoir was truly awe-inspiring.
We were then escorted to the power generation plant, where we learned about the inner workings of the turbines and generators that convert the river’s flow into electricity. Seeing the massive equipment in action underscored the scale of this engineering feat.
After the guided portion, we could explore the Visitor Center independently. We discovered exhibits dedicated to the First Nations communities whose ancestral lands are affected by the dam and reservoir. These displays highlighted their cultural heritage, traditional practices, and the ongoing relationship between their communities and the river system.
Glacier National Park
We drove along CA-1 (the Trans-Canada Highway) through Glacier National Park, the only public road traversing it due to its rugged and mountainous terrain. The challenges of building additional roads are evident in the dramatic topography, with steep slopes, dense forests, and rocky cliffs dominating the landscape.
Glacier National Park covers 521 square miles and lies within the Selkirk Mountains, a subrange of the Columbia Mountains. The park is named for the massive glaciers that shaped its valleys and sculpted its rugged peaks over millennia. Although many glaciers have retreated due to climate change, their legacy is evident in the park’s striking U-shaped valleys, pristine alpine meadows, and thundering waterfalls that cascade down steep cliffs.
The park’s history is deeply tied to the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), which was instrumental in its development. Completed in 1885, the CPR united Canada coast to coast, making travel to the western mountains accessible for the first time. Recognizing the scenic appeal of the area, the railway company promoted Glacier National Park as a tourist destination. In 1886, the CPR established Glacier House, a luxurious mountain lodge near Rogers Pass, which became the centerpiece of early tourism in the region. The lodge attracted mountaineers, climbers, and naturalists from around the world, eager to explore the park’s unspoiled wilderness. Swiss guides, brought in by the CPR, further enhanced the park’s reputation as a mountaineering destination.
The park itself was established in 1886, making it one of Canada’s first national parks, alongside Banff. It symbolized a commitment to preserving the region’s natural beauty while fostering tourism and economic development. In the early years, Glacier House was a hub for scientific research, exploration, and recreation, laying the foundation for the park’s long-standing appeal.
Rogers Pass played a vital role in the railway’s construction and remains an iconic landmark. The pass, named after Major A.B. Rogers, a surveyor for the CPR, offered the most feasible route through the Selkirk Mountains. Its completion was a triumph of engineering, though it came with challenges. The pass’s steep terrain and heavy snowfall made it one of North America’s most avalanche-prone areas. Over time, the railway shifted to a tunnel route to mitigate these dangers, but the Trans-Canada Highway, completed in 1962, follows the original route.
Driving through the park, we marveled at the breathtaking scenery shaped by its glacial past and the determination of those who built the infrastructure that allows us to experience it today. Towering peaks, cascading waterfalls, and lush forests line the route, while the history of exploration, engineering, and conservation enriches every mile of the journey.
Rogers Pass
We stopped at the Rogers Pass Memorial Park, a key location celebrating the pass’s crucial role in the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) construction. The site features several informative displays that provide insight into the history and significance of the pass, which was once considered one of the most difficult obstacles for engineers to overcome during railway construction.
The memorials at the site are the Memory Garden, an avalanche cannon, various plaques, and an arch. The Memory Garden serves as a tribute to the workers and pioneers who were instrumental in building and maintaining the CPR, many of whom tragically lost their lives in the harsh conditions of the region, particularly from avalanches and other natural dangers. The garden is a quiet, reflective space commemorating their sacrifices and contributions.
The avalanche cannon on display symbolizes the ongoing efforts to manage the pass’s avalanche risks. The cannon has been used for years to trigger controlled avalanches, reducing the risk of larger, more destructive slides. This safety measure is a testament to the continuing challenges faced by those who traverse this rugged terrain.
The arch marks the completion of the CPR through Rogers Pass, a monumental achievement in Canadian engineering. Once an insurmountable obstacle, the pass became a vital transportation route connecting the country from coast to coast. This arch is a reminder of the ingenuity and perseverance that went into making the railway a reality.
We reached the Rogers Pass Discovery Center just a mile down the road. This small but engaging visitor center offers a deeper dive into the history of the CPR and the surrounding natural environment. Exhibits focus on the immense challenges of building and maintaining a transportation route through a rugged and often unpredictable landscape. Visitors can learn about the history of avalanches in the area, the diverse wildlife that calls the region home, and the pioneers who helped shape the pass. The center is an excellent stop to understand better the history, geology, and environmental considerations that have made Rogers Pass an iconic part of Canada’s national infrastructure.
Hemlock Grove Boardwalk
We then stopped at the Hemlock Grove Boardwalk, where a 0.6-mile trail winds through an old-growth forest. Tall western hemlock and western red cedar trees dominate the area, some hundreds of years old. Their canopies provide shelter for various wildlife, and the forest floor is covered with ferns, mosses, and other plants that thrive in the shaded environment.
As we walked along the boardwalk, interpretive signs helped us understand the forest ecosystem. The signs explained the role of the trees in stabilizing the forest and how they offer habitat for birds and small mammals. We learned that old-growth forests are essential for maintaining biodiversity, as they support many species, many of which are specially adapted to this environment.
We also learned about the Interior Temperate Rainforest, a rare forest type in this region. The high precipitation and mild temperatures create an environment that supports a diverse range of plants and animals. The signs highlighted the importance of this forest for water filtration, carbon storage, and climate regulation. This forest is a key part of the park’s ecosystem, and we were glad to experience it firsthand.
Giant Cedars Boardwalk
Our next stop was the Giant Cedars Boardwalk, a short 0.3-mile trail that took us through an ancient forest of massive cedar trees, some of which are over 500 years old. As we walked, we marveled at the towering western red cedars and hemlocks, many standing over 100 feet tall and 6 to 9 feet in diameter. The forest floor was covered with lush ferns, mosses, and other plants that thrive in the cool, damp conditions of the temperate rainforest.
We found several interpretive signs along the boardwalk that offered valuable information about the forest ecosystem. These signs explained the importance of old-growth forests, the specific plants and animals that call this area home, and these ancient trees’ role in sustaining biodiversity. We also learned how this delicate ecosystem depends on the balance between the trees, plants, animals, and the environment to survive and thrive. The signs helped us understand the ecological significance of preserving such rare and valuable forests.
Unfortunately, some boardwalk sections were closed due to a fallen tree that had damaged the path. Nonetheless, we could appreciate the towering trees’ grandeur and the ancient forest’s tranquility from the accessible parts of the trail.
Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk
Our next stop was the Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk. This trail is named after the western skunk cabbage, a large, bright yellow flower that thrives in wet, swampy areas. The plant is known for its strong, pungent odor, which resembles that of a skunk, and it’s one of the first plants to bloom in spring. Skunk cabbage plays an important role in the ecosystem, providing an early food source for wildlife, especially bears that emerge from hibernation searching for food after the long winter.
The trail began in a park near the Illecillewaet River, where we followed a combination of boardwalk and dirt paths through a swampy wetland area. The area was lush with vibrant green plants and true to its name, we saw many clusters of skunk cabbage in bloom. Unfortunately, the trail loop was closed for repairs, so we couldn’t explore it as much as we would have liked. However, we could still enjoy the rich ecosystem, including the distinctive yellow flowers and the peaceful surroundings.
Blanket Creek Provisional Park
Returning to Revelstoke, we headed south on BC-23 along the Columbia River to Blanket Creek Provincial Park. The river widens here into Upper Arrow Lake, a long and narrow reservoir that stretches over 143 miles, formed by the construction of the Keenleyside Dam. The rugged Monashee Mountains flank the valley to the west and the Selkirk Mountains to the east, creating a stunning backdrop.
Our main destination in the park was the 40-foot Sutherland Falls, a beautiful cascade just a short walk from the parking area. These falls are formed by Blanket Creek, which flows down from the surrounding mountains and spills into the Columbia River just a short distance from the base of the falls. The sight of the water tumbling down the rocks was breathtaking, and we were fortunate enough to see a run of salmon swimming near the falls, adding a special touch to the scene.
After taking in the falls, we wandered to a nearby man-made swimming lagoon. The still, calm waters of the lagoon created a perfect mirror, allowing us to capture stunning reflection photos of the surrounding landscape.
We stopped at a bridge overlooking Blanket Canyon on our way out of the park. We ventured partway down a trail to get a closer look at the canyon, but the dense vegetation obstructed our view, making it difficult to peer into the canyon’s depths.
Before heading back to Revelstoke, we paused along the Columbia River to take a few more pictures of its winding path through the valley, capturing the beauty of the river in the fading light.
We decided to grab some Dairy Queen for a quick snack on the way back to the camper, where we settled in for a relaxing evening.