Monday, June 17
After a delightful morning with my aunt and uncle, who treated us to a generous spread of donuts and watermelon, we spent some more time catching up before heading out around mid-morning for the Big Bone Lick State Historic Site.
The drive was uneventful, though we had to navigate some narrow, winding country roads to reach the park. The entrance was steep, but we got the trailer set up without much trouble.
Big Bone Lick State Historic Site
Big Bone Lick State Historic Site is known for its rich paleontological history. The park’s name comes from the numerous fossils found in the area, including those of mammoths and other prehistoric animals. A salt lick surrounding sulfur springs drew these creatures to the region. The soft, marshy ground near the springs became treacherous, trapping many animals who could not escape. The park is often called “the birthplace of American paleontology,” as some of these fossils were first discovered by white explorers as early as 1775, laying the foundation for studying ancient life in North America.
The Ark Encounter
The Ark Encounter is a creationist theme park that opened in 2016, designed to bring the biblical story of Noah’s Ark to life. Its centerpiece is a massive, life-sized replica of Noah’s Ark, built according to a literal interpretation of the Genesis flood narrative. At 510 feet long, 85 feet wide, and 51 feet high, the Ark is an impressive structure with an estimated cost of $102 million to construct. Inside, the museum features life-sized exhibits that aim to demonstrate how the events of the Ark story were not only possible but probable, supporting the Bible’s account as the ultimate source of truth about Creation.
The museum itself was overwhelming, as it presented a variety of displays promoting young Earth creationism and challenging widely accepted scientific understandings of the universe’s age, the Earth’s age, and the coexistence of humans and dinosaurs. Visitors, many of whom wore “I Love Jesus” shirts, appeared to embrace the teachings without question. While a few individuals quietly questioned or shook their heads at what they saw, the museum’s arguments were compelling, easy to understand, and made to seem believable to those with little knowledge of mainstream science. It was unsettling and mind-blowing to witness how confidently they presented their perspective.
Additionally, the Ark Encounter took a strong stance against other Christian groups that they felt were not adhering strictly to the literal interpretation of scripture. One display, for example, criticized various Christian children’s books about the flood, which they considered to be too diluted in their presentation of the biblical story. The museum also included messages condemning certain “sins,” such as homosexuality, using the exhibits to promote a specific moral and doctrinal viewpoint.
Big Bone Lick State Historic Site
Upon returning to the park, we took a hike along a muddy trail to visit the park’s small herd of bison and their calves. Unfortunately, the bison were quite distant, making getting a good view of them difficult.
As soon as we returned to the trailer, the rain began pouring down. We both felt grateful to be inside, cozy and dry, enjoying a hearty dinner of sweet potatoes and chili, all washed down with a couple of cold beers. It was the perfect way to end the day.
June 18 – Cincinnati, OH
Rabbit Hash
Today, we decided to explore Cincinnati and the lands north of us. I set Google Maps to ‘avoid highways’ and we began our drive toward our first stop, Rabbit Hash.
Rabbit Hash is a charming little town near the flooded Ohio River that once served as a ferry stop, but now, it’s mostly known for its quaint character and cute name. It was pouring rain when we arrived, so we opted to drive around. We passed by the General Store and a few other historic buildings, including “The Old Hacienda,” a rustic inn housed in an old building. After a quick loop along the river, we decided to head back toward Cincinnati for our next stop: the Creation Museum.
Creation Museum
CREATION MUSEUM
Our next stop was the Creation Museum, located closer to Cincinnati. This museum complex, built in 2007, is the headquarters of the same group that created The Ark Encounter.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by a worker who had a small wallaby tucked under her jacket, which she let Lisa pet. As we entered the museum, my first impression was that we had stepped into a dinosaur exhibit or something out of Jurassic Park. The museum was filled with huge animatronic dinosaurs and various fossils. The difference, however, was that the displays presented pseudoscientific arguments to suggest that dinosaurs and humans coexisted. Some of the earliest exhibits claimed that dragons mentioned in various world myths were actually dinosaurs.
While the Ark Encounter primarily focused on using pseudoscience to prove the Bible’s story of creation, the Creation Museum delved deeper into theological beliefs. One of the central themes was the idea of a perfect world before the fall of man. According to the museum, the Garden of Eden was free from sickness and death, and even dinosaurs were vegetarians who lived harmoniously with Adam and Eve. It was only after Adam ate the forbidden fruit that God introduced suffering, including war, famine, sickness, and childbirth. They also suggested that some dinosaurs turned carnivorous at this point.
After spending several hours in the museum, we enjoyed a peaceful break by walking around the beautiful gardens surrounding the museum. We also visited their small zoo, which provided a more relaxed atmosphere after all the intense displays.
By this time, I was getting hungry. Although the museum had a restaurant on-site, I was eager to explore one of Cincinnati’s many breweries.
Anderson Ferry
On our way to Cincinnati, we passed the Anderson Ferry port and decided to take the $5 ferry ride across the Ohio River. The river was currently flooded, muddy, and full of debris like large trees and branches, so we were surprised the ferry was still operating. It was a little nerve-wracking, especially with Lisa’s anxiety about the conditions, but we felt safe on board. The ferry had a small but efficient operation, with a well-maintained boat that had been running since the 19th century, offering locals and visitors an alternative to crossing the river by car.
Though the muddy waters were not the most picturesque, the ride was surprisingly calm and gave us an interesting perspective of the river’s current state. We crossed the river in about 15 minutes, which felt like a quick yet nostalgic journey. From the ferry, we had views of the shoreline and Cincinnati’s skyline, framed by the water.. The experience felt almost historic, as the Anderson Ferry is one of the oldest in the region and still serves as a connection between the cities of Cincinnati, Ohio, and Florence, Kentucky.
For Lisa, it was a bit unsettling seeing the debris floating downriver, but the gentle sway of the ferry made it an unforgettable experience. After crossing, we continued our trip with a sense of adventure and were grateful for the opportunity to experience this piece of local history.
Cincinnati West Side
After landing on the other side of the Ohio River, we decided to explore the Cincinnati West Side and Googled the closest brewery for lunch. We ended up at the West Side Brewery, a local spot known for its craft beers. Unfortunately, they didn’t serve food, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying a flight of their beers. The brewery proudly boasted about its “drinkable” beers, and after sampling, we wholeheartedly agreed. The beers were smooth, balanced, and flavorful, offering a great introduction to the local craft scene. We especially enjoyed the light, refreshing IPA and a rich stout that complemented the rainy weather.
The brewery had a laid-back vibe, with a small but cozy space that allowed us to relax and unwind. While we didn’t get to try any food, the drinkable beers and friendly atmosphere made it a great stop. We also chatted with the bartender, who shared recommendations for other local breweries to check out on the West Side of Cincinnati, fueling our desire to explore more of the city’s craft beer scene. After finishing our flight, we decided to move on, feeling refreshed and ready to continue our adventure.
Findlay Market Area
We then made our way to another brewery near the Findlay Market area, Rhinegeist Brewery, which had a reputation for both its craft beers and food. The brewery’s website had stated that food was served, and I’d also read that the Findlay Market area was a popular tourist destination, so we were excited to check it out. Rhinegeist was housed in a massive warehouse-style building, which gave it a vibrant, industrial vibe. Inside, the space was bustling with activity, and there were even several games of cornhole going on, adding to the fun, relaxed atmosphere.
Unfortunately, when we arrived, we learned that the kitchen was closed for the day. By this time, I was starving, so while we were disappointed, we decided to make the most of the visit. We headed up to the brewery’s rooftop area to get a better view of the surroundings. The rooftop offered fantastic panoramic views of the city, with the Findlay Market and nearby neighborhoods stretching out below. We took a few pictures and soaked in the sights before deciding it was time to head out and find something to eat.
Even without food, Rhinegeist left a good impression, and we made a mental note to return when the kitchen was open. The beers were excellent, and the rooftop views alone were worth the stop. It was the perfect place to relax, if only for a little while, before continuing our search for lunch.
We really enjoyed looking at all the wall paintings on the various building is the area.
We decided to walk to a restaurant I had found online, and along the way, we passed through the Findlay Market square. Unfortunately, it was mostly empty, with only a few of the booths open, which led me to assume that the market was a weekend attraction rather than a bustling spot during weekdays.
As we got closer to the restaurant, the environment shifted. We started noticing more abandoned buildings, and it became evident that parts of the neighborhood had seen better days. We passed by several homeless individuals, and in some areas, people on the street corners appeared to be engaging in suspicious activities, with one person possibly dealing drugs. Lisa even thought she saw someone lying on the street, possibly overdosed.
When we reached the restaurant, we found it was closed for the day. But to be honest, we probably wouldn’t have stayed anyway, as there was a rough crowd hanging out in front. We quickly made our way back to the truck and started searching for another option nearby. After several frustrating minutes, we decided to try a different place called Taft’s, even though it meant walking through the same sketchy area once again (in hindsight, I’m not sure why we didn’t just drive).
Luckily, Taft’s was open and turned out to be a fantastic spot. The food was great, and we split a steak and chicken dinner while chatting with the bartender about the area. He explained that a redevelopment company had recently started buying up the old buildings and renovating them, though there was still plenty of work left to do. In fact, Taft’s was located in one of the recently renovated buildings, which made it a bit of a hidden gem in the midst of a transitioning neighborhood. Despite the rough surroundings, we left with a positive experience and a sense of appreciation for the changes coming to the area.
Graeter’s
After lunch, we decided to treat ourselves to dessert and headed to Graeter’s, a top-rated local ice cream shop. Graeter’s is a beloved regional chain known for its denser-than-average ice cream, and its reputation was solidified when Oprah Winfrey declared it the best ice cream she had ever tasted back in 2002.
When we arrived, I asked the staff for a suggestion, and they recommended the Chocolate Raspberry flavor. I decided to try it, and I was not disappointed—it was absolutely delicious! The richness of the chocolate combined with the tartness of the raspberry created a perfect balance of flavors, making it a sweet and memorable end to our day.
Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption
Afterward, we decided to explore some attractions I had read about in the area. While we were heading toward one in Covington, we passed by the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption. The cathedral’s striking architecture caught our attention, and we would have loved to go inside, but it didn’t appear to be open to the public at the time.
Instead, we drove around the building, taking in its impressive façade, and then parked in its parking lot to snap pictures.
Garden of Hope
First, we visited the Garden of Hope on a high hill in a somewhat remote area in a working-class neighborhood. The garden, which opened in 1958, was the vision of a Reverend inspired by a trip to Israel in 1938. It features several structures, including a replica of the Garden Tomb in Jerusalem, which some Christians believe to be the site of Jesus’ burial and resurrection.
The garden also boasts a 16th-century Spanish mission chapel, a statue depicting the Sermon on the Mount, and several stones encased in cages, which are said to come from significant biblical locations such as Solomon’s Temple, the Jordan River, and the Good Samaritan Inn.
Although the Garden of Hope felt a bit run-down, with many informational signs faded or difficult to read, it was still an intriguing and peaceful place to visit. The serene atmosphere and historical replicas provided a unique connection to biblical history, and the garden offered a stunning view of the Cincinnati skyline, making it worth the stop despite its condition.
Monte Casino Chapel
Our next stop was the Monte Casino Chapel, which gained worldwide attention in 1922 when Robert Ripley of Ripley’s Believe It or Not declared it the “smallest church in the world.” This tiny chapel was built in 1878 by Benedictine monks for the Monte Casino Monastery, nestled in the hills of South Covington, KY. The chapel measures only 6 feet by 9 feet and stands 8 feet tall.
The chapel remained abandoned after the monastery closed in the 1920s until it was moved to the campus of Thomas More College in 1965. It was rededicated as a chapel in 1971. Today, it sits at the entrance of Thomas More College, surrounded by a grassy area, a strip mall, and a small man-made pond.
The chapel has no immediate road or parking area nearby, so we parked at a bank lot and walked down to it. On the way, a group of ducks curiously followed us, likely hoping for some treats. While the stained glass windows were beautiful, the interior was in poor condition, showing signs of neglect and disrepair. Despite its rundown state, the chapel remained an intriguing and quaint stop, offering a glimpse into a piece of history.
Florence Y’All Water Tower
On our way back to the trailer, we passed the iconic “Florence Y’all” water tower, a local landmark with a fascinating history. Built in the 1970s, the tower was initially constructed on the site of a future mall, and the original design featured the words “Florence Mall” prominently on it. However, the Bureau of Highways required a name change since the mall had not yet been built. To save money on a full redesign, the town opted for a simple modification: they changed just one letter, turning “Florence Mall” into “Florence Y’all.” This quirky change turned the water tower into a beloved landmark, making it an enduring symbol of the town’s sense of humor and resourcefulness. The tower has since become a familiar sight for travelers passing through Florence, Kentucky, and is fondly regarded by locals and visitors alike.
June 19, 2019 – Frankfort, Louisville
Today our goal was to see Frankfort and visit a distillery in Louisville.
Our first stop was the Switzer Covered Bridge. Along the way we passed the Kentucky Speedway and a couple historical churches.
Switzer Covered Bridge
Today, our goal was to explore Frankfort and visit a distillery in Louisville, with plans to immerse ourselves in the area’s rich history and vibrant local culture.
Our first stop was the Switzer Covered Bridge, a charming structure in the Kentucky countryside. The scenic drive took us along narrow, tree-lined roads, offering beautiful views of rolling hills and lush green fields. Along the way, we passed the Kentucky Speedway, where the energy of motorsports seemed to infuse the air. We couldn’t help but admire the expansive track from a distance. We also encountered a few historic churches, their impressive architecture as quiet reminders of the region’s deep history.
As we continued down winding roads, the Switzer Covered Bridge finally appeared. The bridge, spanning the North Elkhorn Creek, was designated the official state-covered bridge of Kentucky in 1998. Though it was built in the mid-1800s, it was restored in 1997 after a flood, preserving its rustic charm. Surrounded by lush pastures and nature, the bridge made for a perfect photo opportunity. Unfortunately, I was disappointed to find that the inside of the bridge was covered in graffiti, which detracted from its historical beauty. Despite this, it remained a peaceful stop and offered a glimpse into Kentucky’s past. After soaking in the tranquility and charm of the bridge, we continued our journey toward Frankfort, excited to explore more of the state’s hidden gems.
Woodlake
After stopping to take pictures, we continued our drive and passed through the small town of Woodlake. Suddenly, it hit me — this was the town where my paternal grandparents had lived. It had been over 30 years since I’d been here, and they were both long gone, but I decided to see if I could find their old house. The town was small enough that it wasn’t difficult to track down. It was an unexpected and nostalgic detour, and as I shared memories with Lisa, I reflected on childhood moments, making the experience even more meaningful.
Kentucky Castle
We continued on toward Versailles, just south of Frankfort, with the intention of visiting the Kentucky Castle, also known as Castle Post, Martin Castle, or Versailles Castle. This mansion, designed to resemble a medieval castle, piqued our curiosity as it promised a unique blend of history and architecture.
Google Maps initially led us to the heart of Versailles, where we found a charming downtown, but we couldn’t spot anything resembling a castle. After some more searching, we found another address, and as we drove down a four-lane highway toward it, the castle suddenly appeared on the horizon. It was hard to miss, standing out impressively against the landscape.
We took the exit off the highway and made our way down a long driveway toward the castle, where we were greeted by a guard booth. The woman at the booth asked us why we were there and informed us that the castle had been converted into a bed and breakfast. She was kind enough to direct us to the parking area for the restaurant and gardens. Though we didn’t go inside, we took the opportunity to drive around, snap some photos, and admire the impressive structure from different angles. It was a beautiful stop, even if we didn’t get to explore everything the castle had to offer fully.
Rebecca Ruth Candy Factory
We headed back toward Frankfort and headed to the Rebecca Ruth Candy Factory, a staple in the area known for its candy-making tradition. Though there was a smaller Rebecca Ruth store along the way, we decided to visit the main store in Frankfort to experience it all.
Rebecca Ruth is credited with creating the famous Bourbon Ball, a confection that pairs Kentucky bourbon with chocolate and other ingredients. They were also said to have some of the best Kentucky cream pull candy, which excited us to try. However, we soon learned that all of their Bourbon Balls contained pecans, which Lisa is allergic to. We also discovered that all the other candy was made in the same facility where the Bourbon Balls were produced, with no efforts to prevent cross-contamination from the pecans.
Though Lisa still hoped to try the pull candy, I encouraged her to reconsider. I didn’t want to risk any allergic reactions, and although she wasn’t thrilled with the decision, we ultimately agreed it was the safer choice. It was a bit disappointing, but we left empty-handed from Rebecca Ruth, knowing that plenty of other sweet treats would be waiting for us along the way.
Frankfort Cemetery
Next, we headed up the street to the Frankfort Cemetery, where we wanted to visit the gravesite of Daniel Boone and attempt to locate some of the SHRYOCK family graves. The cemetery was well-maintained, and the historical significance of the location was palpable.
The gravesite of Daniel and Rebecca Boone was easy to find, with plenty of signs directing us, and a painted line guiding the way to the monument. The peaceful surroundings of the cemetery provided a fitting backdrop for such an iconic figure in American history.
The story behind the Boone gravesite was fascinating. Initially, Daniel Boone passed away and was buried in Missouri in 1820. However, in 1845, Daniel and his wife Rebecca were disinterred and moved to Frankfort Cemetery, a final resting place more closely associated with Boone’s legacy in Kentucky. The history surrounding their reburial is shrouded in some mystery and controversy, as there is still debate today about whether the remains that were relocated to Kentucky are actually those of Daniel and Rebecca Boone, or if some of their remains still rest in Missouri. This unresolved question only adds to the intrigue surrounding the site.
After visiting the Boone gravesite, we took some time to explore the cemetery and try to find the SHRYOCK graves. It was a peaceful, reflective stop, offering a glimpse into the region’s rich history.
Near the Boone gravesite, we also discovered another notable gravesite: that of Lieutenant Presley O’Bannon, a significant figure in American history. O’Bannon was the first person to raise the American flag on foreign soil, an act that occurred during the First Barbary War in 1805. As a U.S. Marine, he led a daring attack against the Barbary Pirates in Tripoli, Libya, which was a pivotal moment in the early history of the Marine Corps. His bravery and leadership in the campaign earned him lasting recognition, and his gravesite in Frankfort Cemetery serves as a tribute to his heroism. It was humbling to see this monument to such an important historical figure who played a key role in shaping America’s military legacy.
After visiting the Daniel Boone memorial and admiring the beautiful views of Frankfort and the Capital building from there, we went to the cemetery office. We got the location of the SHRYOCKs that were buried there. She only used the general area of the grave sites, and when we drove out to the section, we had trouble locating any headstones with the name SHRYOCK on them. After a long while, Lisa finally found all five of them.
– John L Shryock – My great great grandfather – Died 1921
– Mary Ellen Shryock – His wife – Died 1953
– N M Shryock – Son of John L and Mary E, killed in World War I in 1918
– Willam Burke Shryock – Son of John L and Mary E – Died 1987
– Edna Frances Shryock – Wife of William Burke Shryock – Died 1992
Stitzel-Weller Distillery
Back at the Point Labaddie Brewery near St. Louis, we met a couple who generously gave us tickets for the Bulleit Distillery Tour they could no longer use. They also asked us to mail them the gift bottle of bourbon they had purchased from the distillery. It was a kind gesture, and we were happy to help.
It took us about an hour to reach the distillery, but we initially had trouble finding it. We were looking for the Bulleit Distillery, but we could only see a sign for the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. After some confusion, we finally entered through the gate, where a friendly and talkative gate guard assured us we were in the right place.
The distillery proved to be full of contradictions and fascinating history. While it first opened in 1935, there was never a brand called “Stitzel-Weller” whiskey. Initially, the distillery was famous for producing wheat bourbon, but after being bought and sold multiple times, it ceased producing whiskey there in 1992. It was officially closed in 1999, but in 2014, it reopened to the public as a small distillery offering tours and producing small batches for internal use. These days, the distillery primarily promotes Diageo’s Bulleit brand, even though Bulleit bourbon was never made there.
We were given a brief but informative tour of the bourbon-making process, and we had the chance to see some of the legendary icons of the distillery, including the famous Old Fitzgerald smoke stack. Afterward, we sampled a few of their bourbons. While the bourbon itself didn’t quite compare to some of the others I’d tasted, I appreciated the historical ambiance of the place. The experience felt like stepping back in time, surrounded by many stories and icons of the bourbon industry.
The Drive Back
We decided to take a scenic, longer route back to the trailer, following the Ohio River. The drive took us past several massive factories and a large coal-burning plant, and the sheer size of these industrial sites took us aback. The scale of the operations was both impressive and overwhelming.
About halfway home, we stopped at a small diner for comfort food. The cozy atmosphere was a welcome respite, and we both enjoyed a satisfying meal. I opted for their special: mashed potatoes, green beans, and pork cutlets, while Lisa went for a classic favorite—chicken fingers.
As we finished our meal, the rain started pouring down in torrents, but luckily, the drive back to the trailer was smooth, and we arrived without any issues. Despite the weather, it had been a day filled with new sights and experiences.
June 20, 2019 – Lexington
Colville Covered Bridge
This morning, we set off toward Lexington, eager to explore more of the countryside. Our first stop was the Colville Covered Bridge, tucked away in a quiet, rural area. Unlike the Switzer Covered Bridge, which had been a historical site, this one was still actively used, and we could cross it. Constructed in 1877, the Colville Bridge is one of the 13 remaining covered bridges in Kentucky, each carrying its unique charm and history.
Though the bridge had been restored over the years, we still felt a sense of caution as we crossed it. The creaky wooden planks and the narrow space made it clear that we were walking (or, in this case, driving) through a piece of living history. Despite our nerves, the picturesque surroundings and the sense of stepping back in time made the experience memorable.
Kentucky Horse Park
We eventually arrived at the Kentucky Horse Park after passing sprawling estates and picturesque fields, each surrounded by large fences, many double-layered. We learned later that the extra layer of fencing was for protection—just in case one of the fences were to break—and to keep the horses separated into different fields. We also passed several handmade stone fences, a testament to the area’s rich historical significance and craftsmanship, adding even more character to the landscape.
The Kentucky Horse Park is a sprawling facility with a little bit of everything for horse enthusiasts. It houses a large museum, numerous stables featuring rare and famous horses, various static exhibits, commemorative statues, and multiple arenas. The park is not just a museum; it also hosts regular horse shows and competitions, making it an exciting destination for casual visitors and die-hard equestrian fans.
We managed to catch the tail end of a show where riders dressed in costumes that reflected the history and characteristics of the horse they were riding, all while sharing educational insights with the audience. Next, we headed over to the Big Barn, where the draft horses were kept, and watched a fascinating demonstration of a Shire horse being harnessed.
After a quick lunch in the truck, we returned to the museum. The museum was enormous, filled with detailed exhibits that were as educational as they were captivating. We got so immersed in the displays that we realized we were missing a show we had hoped to catch. In our rush to leave, we found ourselves struggling to find the exit but eventually made it out in time to see the final moments of that show.
Afterward, we watched the show we had missed and enjoyed the next one. Then, we hopped on a ten-minute cart ride around the park to get a better view of the grounds. We circled back to the museum and completed our tour, taking in the remaining exhibits.
Along the way, we also explored some other areas of the park, including a display focused on police horses, a children’s area where younger visitors could learn about horses more interactively, and a section showcasing horse-drawn farm machinery, giving us a deeper understanding of the role horses have played in agriculture.
Before leaving, we ventured to one of the competition arenas, where we witnessed an impressive carriage driving competition. It was fascinating to watch the competitors, particularly older women, skillfully navigating the arena in antique two- and four-wheel carriages, showing off their mastery of this timeless equestrian discipline.
Drive Home
On the way back, we drove back through some more Kentucky back roads, stopped at a grocery store, and returned to the trailer exhausted.