Tuesday, 27 August
The Journey from Tagotta Resort, BC, to Stewart, BC
Today, we traveled 181 miles from Tatogga Lake Resort to Stewart along BC-37, the Stewart-Cassiar Highway.
As we headed south, the highway wound through the breathtaking Iskut River Valley, surrounded by the rugged peaks of the Coast Mountains. Dense boreal forests of spruce, pine, and aspen blanketed the landscape, creating a vivid, green expanse that seemed to stretch endlessly. Around every bend, the valley revealed stunning views that epitomized the untouched beauty of this remote wilderness.
Early in the journey, we crossed two narrow, one-lane wooden plank bridges: Willow Creek Bridge at mile 22.3 and Rescue Creek Bridge at mile 24.3. Beyond the bridges, the road descended steeply with an 8% grade, followed by an even steeper 9% grade, leading us toward the Burrage River Bridge. The winding descent, though challenging, offered glimpses of the dramatic terrain below.
We paused at a small rest stop near Bob Quinn Lake, named after an early 20th-century trapper, telegraph operator, and prospector who explored the wilderness between Stewart and Dease Lake. Informative signs at the stop detailed the history of the Yukon Telegraph Line, which connected Ashcroft, British Columbia, to Dawson City, Yukon, between 1898 and 1901. The line was abandoned in 1936 when radio communications became dominant. Also at the site was a gravel airstrip, built in 1990 to support mining operations in the region, which remains active for commercial and private flights.
Continuing south, we crossed the Ningunsaw River, a tributary of the Iskut River, and ascended the Ningunsaw Summit at an elevation of 1,530 feet. The highway then carried us toward the Bell Irving River, which we crossed at mile 87 near the Bell 2 Lodge. We stopped at a rest area by Mehan Lake just three miles further. The route followed the Bell Irving River again, offering serene views as we approached the Bell 1 rest stop and crossed the river via another bridge.
At Meziadin Junction, we turned onto BC-37A, the Glacier Highway, a scenic byway leading to Stewart. Following the Bear River Valley, this stretch was undoubtedly one of the journey’s highlights. Towering cliffs, majestic peaks, and hanging glaciers lined the road, creating a dramatic and awe-inspiring landscape. The jewel of this route was the Bear Glacier, a stunning mass of ice visible from the highway. Waterfalls cascading down the cliffs added to the enchanting beauty of this final leg, setting the stage for our arrival in Stewart.
Bear Glacier
We paused at the Bear Glacier viewpoint, an easily accessible stop just off the highway, where we were greeted by a breathtaking view of the glacier nestled above the serene waters of Strohn Lake. The glacier’s icy expanse gleamed under the sunlight, its brilliant white and pale blue hues contrasting sharply with the rugged, dark cliffs and towering mountains that framed the scene. The tranquil lake below mirrored the surrounding peaks, adding to the enchanting beauty of the setting.
Bear Glacier remains a striking natural wonder, though receding like many of the world’s glaciers. Once part of the massive Salmon Glacier system, it has been retreating for decades, yet its scale is still remarkable. Spanning approximately 1,500 feet in width and stretching about 7 miles, it commands attention as one of the most prominent glaciers in the area. The visible striations and crevasses on its surface told a story of constant movement and transformation, a testament to the powerful forces of nature shaping this wild landscape.
Bear River RV Park
Bear River RV Park is located at the entrance of Stewart, just off the highway. It is set along the banks of the Bear River. We were directed to a full hookup back-in gravel site near the park’s entrance. The sites alternate as back-in or pull-in because the utilities were between every site.
Stewart
After setting up the camper, we decided to take a drive into Stewart, eager to explore this quaint town nestled at the edge of Canada’s northernmost ice-free seaport. Stewart is a small, tight-knit community of about 400 people, situated at the head of Portland Canal, a narrow, 90-mile-long fjord that stretches inland from the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by the rugged beauty of the Coast Mountains, with their towering peaks and vast glaciers, the town offers a truly dramatic and picturesque setting.
Originally founded in the early 1900s, Stewart grew as a mining town after the discovery of gold, silver, and other valuable minerals in the surrounding mountains. The nearby Premier Mine and other local operations fueled the town’s economy during its peak years, making it a bustling hub for mining activity and trade.
Our first stop was a scenic drive along the Bear River on the town’s eastern side, where we reached the “World Port”—a dock area busy with several logging trucks. From there, we meandered through downtown Stewart, where we admired several charming historical buildings that reflected the town’s mining heritage. We then stopped at the Estuary Boardwalk, a peaceful spot where we walked along the elevated boardwalk. Much of the area was muddy with the tide out, revealing stretches of mud flats and scattered coastal plants. Along the way, we encountered a few memorials in the park, and part of the boardwalk appeared to be adorned for an upcoming wedding.
Although it was only 2 p.m., and we had been advised that the best time to spot the bears was between 4 and 8 p.m., we couldn’t resist the opportunity to visit the Fish Creek Observation Site. Excited and hopeful to see the bears up close, we decided to head over early, eager to witness the wildlife, even if it meant waiting a little longer than expected.
Hyder
The Fish Creek Observation Site is in Alaska, and we must cross the U.S.-Canadian border to reach it. Interestingly, there was no U.S. customs office at the border, so we did not need to show our passports when entering Alaska. However, a Canadian customs office awaited our return to Stewart, so we knew we would need our passports to re-enter Canada.
Just beyond the border lies the small town of Hyder, Alaska, which proudly calls itself “The Friendliest Ghost Town in Alaska.” With around 90 residents, Hyder exudes a quiet, almost forgotten charm. Its weathered and rustic character became evident as we drove through the town. Many of the buildings showed signs of disrepair, their faded facades and boarded windows lending the town an air of nostalgic abandonment. Despite this, Hyder’s unique atmosphere made it a memorable stop.
After a brief drive through Hyder, we continued toward Fish Creek along Salmon Glacier Road (NFD 88). This scenic route paralleled the Salmon River, winding through a breathtaking valley framed by the rugged peaks of the Coast Mountains. The dramatic landscape featured jagged ridgelines, dense evergreen forests, and the rushing waters of the river below, creating a wild and untamed beauty that captivated us at every turn.
Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site
The Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site is located about 4 miles north of Hyder along Fish Creek. This area is renowned for its bear sightings, as both grizzly and black bears come to the creek each year to catch salmon during the annual salmon run, typically between mid-July and September. The site is particularly famous for its opportunities to witness these magnificent creatures in action as they hunt and feed on the abundant fish.
Historically, the area has been a prime location for observing the bears, with the US Forest Service taking steps to protect visitors and wildlife. They constructed an elevated viewing platform along the creek, which provides a safe, unobtrusive vantage point for watching the bears without disturbing them. The platform is part of a broader effort to ensure the safety of both the public and the wildlife. Additionally, the Forest Service built a fenced walkway from the overflow parking area to the viewing platform, designed to keep visitors away from bears that may wander near the road or through the parking lot.
We had to park in the overflow area when we arrived, as the main parking lot was already full. The creek was peaceful at first, with no bears in sight. However, we were still captivated by the large number of trout spawning in the clear waters below the platform.
About an hour into our wait, we were rewarded when a grizzly bear emerged from the brush and made its way toward the creek. The bear quickly began to catch the trout, using powerful paws to scoop the fish out of the water. The elevated platform allowed us to be so close to the bear that we could actually hear the bones crunching as the bear feasted on its catch. It was an awe-inspiring moment as we watched the bear selectively target the female trout, likely because their eggs were a more nutrient-rich food source.
The spectacle was even more fascinating as we observed the trout trying to evade the bear by skimming the surface of the water. It was a tense game of survival, with the fish trying to outmaneuver the bear’s sharp claws and powerful jaws. We spent several hours observing this incredible natural drama unfold. Eventually we headed back to the camper for the evening.
Wednesday, 28 August
Salmon Glacier Drive
It was a misty morning, with low-lying clouds swirling around the peaks. Our goal for the day was to see the majestic Salmon Glacier, a breathtaking sight that fellow Caravaners had shown us sensational photos of the day before. The pictures of the glacier, with its blue and white ice stretching across the rugged mountain landscape, had stirred up our anticipation. Unfortunately we were soon to learn that we should have made this trip the day before in better weather.
As we drove through Hyder, we slowed down to read the sign outside the Glacier Inn, which invited tourists to get “Hyderized.” This quirky local tradition intrigued us, and we later learned that it meant taking a shot of 151-proof grain alcohol, often Everclear. I am glad we did not stop.
Continuing down Salmon Glacier Road (NFD 88), we passed the Fish Creek Observation Site, which we had visited the day before. The gravel road climbed into the mountains, winding its way toward the Salmon Glacier Viewpoint. This viewpoint, perched about 4,300 feet above the glacier, promised an amazing panoramic view of the massive ice field. However, the road to reach it was not for the faint of heart. The path was rough, with many sections even rougher as we went higher. The road’s edges were often very sandy and steep, making driving more challenging, and numerous avalanche warning signs reminded us of the potential dangers lurking in these mountains. The width of the road varied greatly—sometimes barely wide enough for a single vehicle, while other parts were just wide enough to squeeze two cars past one another.
As we made our way up the mountain, we passed the turnoff for the Premier Gold Mine, a historic mining operation that has extracted over 2 million ounces of gold and 45 million ounces of silver from the region. The mine has played a significant role in the history of the area, helping to establish Hyder and the surrounding region as important mining hubs in the early 20th century.
We also drove through an area that was part of a hydroelectric plant, which uses the water from the Salmon Glacier to generate power.
As we continued our climb, the weather started to turn. The cloud cover thickened, reducing visibility to just a few feet ahead. It was becoming difficult to see anything at all, and we soon found ourselves in a whiteout. Just before it became impossible to see anything, I managed to snap a few pictures from a distance of the Salmon River Valley below, with the foot of the massive Salmon Glacier barely visible through the haze of clouds.
When we finally reached the main viewpoint, the clouds had completely enveloped the area. Unfortunately, we could not see the glacier at all, let alone the expansive vistas we had hoped for. We were only able to see a couple of feet in front of us, and the anticipated breathtaking sight remained hidden behind a thick veil of mist.
On our way back down the mountain, the clouds briefly lifted, offering a fleeting glimpse of the Salmon Glacier. However, the cloud cover quickly returned, and we were once again surrounded by fog and mist as we made our descent back toward Hyder.
Fish Creek Observation Site
When we got back to the bottom, we stopped at the Fish Creek Observation Site and found that they had two bears there. They were in different areas, but the rangers had informed me that they were very territorial and did not like others in the creek at the same time.
Once again, it was fun watching them chase the fish around.
Stewart Museum
Upon returning to Stewart, we made a stop at the Stewart Museum. After purchasing tickets, the friendly docent gave us a brief introduction to the museum and its exhibits. She then directed us to a small room where we watched a video detailing the rich history of Stewart. Although the video was engaging, we realized we were short on time and decided to explore the museum’s exhibits instead of finishing the entire film.
This charming and informative local museum is dedicated to preserving and celebrating the history of Stewart and its surrounding areas, with a particular focus on the region’s mining heritage, local culture, and the unique connection between Stewart, BC, and Hyder, Alaska.
Being situated in the Golden Triangle, an area renowned for its abundance of gold, silver, and other valuable minerals, the museum naturally places significant emphasis on the history of mining in the region. Among its displays are historical artifacts from the area’s bustling mining operations, vintage photographs, and tools and equipment used during the mining boom of the early 20th century. One highlight was the story of the Premier Mine, one of British Columbia’s most prolific producers of gold and silver.
The museum also delves into Stewart’s founding in the early 1900s as a mining and port town. Artifacts related to the daily lives of early settlers provide a vivid glimpse into how people adapted to the challenges of living in such a remote and rugged environment. Old photographs, maps, and historical documents shed light on the development of the town and its role in the region.
It also explores the history of Stewart’s logging and fishing industries, with displays of tools, equipment, and stories illustrating the hard work and ingenuity of those who made their livelihoods in these sectors.
In addition to its focus on human history, the museum features exhibits on the region’s natural history. Displays cover the area’s unique ecosystems, geology, and notable landmarks, including the iconic Salmon Glacier.
Though small in size, the museum is packed with fascinating artifacts, engaging stories, and well-organized exhibits that paint a rich picture of Stewart’s past and its connection to the surrounding landscape and communities.
Caravan Social
That evening, the caravan organized a social gathering. With the weather still misty, they reserved the spacious RV Wash building for the event. Each participant was asked to bring food, so we opted to contribute a large pizza from a local pizza shop, which cost us $50.