Tuesday, Aug 6
The Journey from Anchorage to Homer
Today, we drove 219.5 miles to Homer on the Kenai Peninsula. It rained all day, and the temperature stayed chilly, hovering in the high 50s.
As we traveled south along the Seward Highway (AK-1), we followed the north shore of Turnagain Arm. We passed Girdwood, a popular resort town at the base of the mountains, known for its ski area and beautiful surroundings. Continuing south, we passed Portage Junction, crossed the Twentymile River, and reached the end of Turnagain Arm. The highway then crossed the Placer River and began its ascent up Turnagain Pass. As we descended from the pass, we arrived at Tern Lake Junction, where the Seward Highway became the Sterling Highway, and the landscape changed to rolling hills.
At Tern Lake, we continued west along the highway, passing Kenai Lake and following the Kenai River through Cooper Landing. This area, known for its prime salmon fishing, was lined with charter fishing vendors. From there, the highway entered the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge, with its expansive wetlands, rolling hills, and sweeping views of the Kenai Mountains. As we neared Soldotna, the landscape flattened, opening up into meadows and mixed woodlands, reflecting the town’s location on the western Kenai Peninsula.
Leaving Soldotna, we passed through dense spruce and birch forests. As we got closer to the western coastline, we began to see views of Cook Inlet. The terrain shifted again, with rolling hills, wetlands, and small lakes scattered throughout. As we neared Homer, the highway descended through the Kenai Mountains, offering us stunning panoramic views of Kachemak Bay and the surrounding peaks.
Baycrest RV Park
Our caravan stayed at the Baycrest RV Park, about 5 miles north of Homer. The park is perched on a bluff, offering stunning views overlooking Kachemak Bay. The bluff is bordered by a charming wooden fence, which is covered in a vibrant display of wildflowers, adding to the area’s natural beauty. The fence also served as a safety barrier, preventing anyone from venturing too close to the edge.
Although the park’s location provided a peaceful and picturesque setting, the rain and lingering effects of COVID kept us at the campground for the day. We spent our time relaxing at the RV park, taking in the views from a distance and enjoying the tranquility of the surroundings.
Wednesday, Aug 7
We were both still feeling the effects of COVID, so we decided to take it easy at the camper for the day and relax by watching TV. It rained all day, and the low clouds kept us from seeing beyond the bluff for most of the time, except for brief moments when the rain let up.
Thursday, Aug 8
Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center (Islands & Ocean)
The rain finally stopped around 8 a.m., and we were both feeling much better by then, so we decided to explore the area.
Our first stop was the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, also known as the Islands & Ocean Visitor Center. The center is a fantastic resource for learning about the region’s diverse wildlife and natural history. Inside, we discovered a variety of exhibits, including an immersive Bering Sea bird rookery that brought to life the area’s dynamic and often harsh environment. We also enjoyed viewing Aleutian artifacts, which provided a glimpse into the rich cultural history of the Aleutian Islands. One of the highlights was the field camp exhibit, showcasing the daily work of biologists dedicated to studying and preserving the refuge’s wildlife.
Additionally, the center houses a well-maintained aviary, which was one of the most exciting parts of our visit. The aviary is home to several native seabirds, including puffins and other species integral to the region’s ecosystems. We could observe these birds up close, and it was incredible to see them in a setting that mirrored their natural habitat. The center provides a quiet space where these birds can be safely housed and rehabilitated if needed, and it gave us a deeper understanding of the efforts being made to protect Alaska’s vulnerable bird species.
The center also boasts breathtaking views of Kachemak Bay and the surrounding islands, offering educational exhibits and stunning scenery in one location. It was a perfect spot to learn about the area’s ecology, conservation efforts, and the wildlife that makes this part of Alaska so unique.
Homer Spit
We continued south to explore Homer Spit, a 4.5-mile-long strip of land that extends into the scenic Kachemak Bay. The spit is a bustling hub, especially during the summer when it hosts the Homer Boat Harbor, which can accommodate up to 1,500 commercial and pleasure boats. The area is alive with activity, featuring a variety of tour vendors, local shops, campgrounds, and restaurants. Although businesses are scattered along the spit, most are concentrated near the tip, where the harbor and tourism services are located.
We drove to the end of the spit and turned around at the Lands End Resort, a well-known landmark with breathtaking bay views and nearby mountains. After taking in the views, we backtracked and parked near the Seafarer’s Memorial, which is closer to the spit’s end.
The Seafarer’s Memorial is a poignant tribute to those who have lost their lives in the fishing industry, a major part of Homer’s history. It features a striking bronze statue of a fisherman holding a net and gazing out toward the sea, symbolizing the connection between fishermen and the vast, unpredictable waters. Surrounding the statue are several plaques listing the names of individuals who have died while working at sea. This memorial serves as a solemn reminder of the dangers faced by those in the fishing industry and the sacrifices they make in their work.
After spending some time at the memorial, we wandered around the nearby shops, many connected by a charming boardwalk that runs along the spit. The boardwalk provided a lovely way to explore the shops while enjoying the fresh sea air and picturesque views of the bay.
Salty Dog Saloon
While walking around, we visited The Salty Dog Saloon, a popular tourist attraction on the Spit and a legendary spot steeped in history. The saloon is housed in an early homestead cabin dating back to 1897, making it one of the oldest buildings in Homer. Before it became a bar, the cabin had various roles over the years, reflecting the area’s diverse history. It was expanded and repurposed for different uses, including a post office, railroad station, school, grocery store, and even offices for coal mining companies and Standard Oil. In 1957, the building was converted into the iconic Salty Dog Saloon, which has since become a must-see destination for visitors to the spit. Following the catastrophic March 1964 “Good Friday” earthquake, which dramatically reshaped the landscape of Homer’s Spit, the building was relocated to its current spot, ensuring its place in the town’s history.
The musty scent of stale beer hit us immediately when we walked into the saloon. The bar was divided into several small, cozy rooms. The low ceilings and walls were lined with a mixture of old-time memorabilia, quirky trinkets, and countless dollar bills pinned to the walls. The dim lighting and cluttered decor gave the saloon a timeless feel like it hadn’t changed much over the decades.
Despite the unique ambiance, the overpowering scent, and the lively and somewhat rowdy atmosphere, we weren’t quite ready to settle in because we had more exploring ahead of us. With its storied past and quirky charm, the Salty Dog Saloon was a place we intended to experience more fully when we had the time.
Mainely Alaskan
We returned to our truck and found a food truck nearby open for lunch. We split some halibut nuggets and enjoyed them at a picnic table overlooking the water and the Spit. The nuggets were good, but the fries were too greasy.
Homer
After leaving the Spit, we drove through the town of Homer, a place rich in history and natural beauty.
The area was originally home to the Inuit Eskimo and Dena’ina Indians, who thrived by living off the land and sea in this resource-abundant environment. As it is known today, Homer was officially founded in 1896 by Homer Pennock, a gold prospector who established a mining camp here. Although the gold rush initially drew settlers, coal mining became the town’s primary industry. Coal mines were established as early as 1889, and the town grew steadily around this resource. By the early 20th century, homesteaders began arriving, establishing farms and small communities that gave Homer its frontier character.
Completing the Sterling Highway in 1950 was a turning point for the town. Connecting Homer to the rest of Alaska, the highway spurred growth and transformed it into an accessible hub for fishing, tourism, and adventure. Today, Homer is celebrated as the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World,” attracting anglers, nature lovers, and visitors seeking the charm of this coastal town.
When we left the Spit, we took Kachemak Drive, a scenic route that hugs the shoreline of Kachemak Bay. The road offered captivating glimpses of the bay’s shimmering waters, distant snow-capped mountains, and fishing boats drifting in the breeze. It was a tranquil drive that allowed us to see Homer’s stunning coastal scenery from a new perspective.
From Kachemak Drive, we headed uphill along Skyline Drive, a winding route that climbs into the hills overlooking the town. These rolling hills gently slope toward the bay, and many of Homer’s homes take full advantage of the natural elevation, boasting incredible views of Kachemak Bay and the majestic Kenai Mountains. We continued along Skyline Drive until we reached the Skyline Drive Lookout, a breathtaking vantage point high above the town.
Homer Baycrest Overlook
We reconnected with the Sterling Highway and began heading north. Along the way, we stopped at the Homer Baycrest Overlook, one of the most iconic viewpoints in the area. Perched high above Kachemak Bay, the overlook offered breathtaking panoramic views of the bay.
The overlook is thoughtfully landscaped with multiple flower beds, adding vibrant color to the already stunning scenery. A kiosk provided information about the local area.
We spent some time soaking in the views, marveling at the expansive vistas of Kachemak Bay and its surrounding wonders before continuing north.
Anchor Point
Anchor Point is a quaint and scenic community situated along the eastern shore of Cook Inlet. It holds the distinction of being the westernmost point on the North American highway system, a fact celebrated with pride by the local community. The town’s name originates from a legend dating back to 1778 when Captain James Cook is said to have lost an anchor in the area while struggling to navigate the strong tidal waters during his expedition to chart Alaska’s coastline.
Our first stop in Anchor Point was the Ma Walli Rock Day Use Area, a peaceful spot where we took some time to explore the Anchor River. The river is not only picturesque but also significant, as it is Alaska’s only major steelhead stream accessible by road. The serene surroundings of the river made for a perfect introduction to the area before we continued to the Anchor River State Recreation Area.
Driving down Anchor Point Road, we eventually reached the recreation area’s rocky beach on the shore of Cook Inlet. Unlike traditional harbors, Anchor Point uses a unique boat-launching service on the beach, which is both practical and fascinating to watch. Tractors, including one nicknamed the “Waterboy” (a modified log skidder), launch and retrieve boats from the shore into deeper waters.
We stood in awe as the Waterboy hooked up to a fishing boat and made its way down the shoreline, backing the trailer into the surf. Once the boat was in the water, the captain engaged the engine, and as the Waterboy continued into deeper water, the boat floated free from the trailer. The retrieval process was equally impressive. Due to the extreme tidal range of Cook Inlet, boats must approach the shoreline at speeds of 6 to 12 knots, essentially driving themselves onto the trailer. The Waterboy, running at full power, then hauled the boat and trailer back to the shore. This ingenious system reflects the ingenuity of the locals, who have adapted to the area’s unique geography and conditions.
Before leaving Anchor Point, we stopped at the intersection of Anchor Point Road and the Sterling Highway, where a large sign proudly declares, “Anchor Point, AK: North America’s Most Westerly Highway Point.” This iconic spot is marked by a bench, flagpole, historical marker, and monument, emphasizing its importance to the community and visitors alike. It’s a perfect photo opportunity.
Scenic Viewpoint
We continued north and pulled over at a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Cook Inlet.
Deep Creek
We stopped at the Deep Creek Day Use Area to explore the river renowned for its king and silver salmon runs. Although we didn’t spot any fish in the fast-flowing water, we relished the views of towering spruce and birch trees, along with the vibrant fireweed lining the banks. The creek, primarily fed by snowmelt and rainfall from the surrounding White River Plateau mountains, had turned brown due to recent rains, a stark contrast to the blue-green glacier water we had grown accustomed to.
Ninilchik
We then stopped at the Ninilchik River Scenic Viewpoint. While the thick vegetation blocked our view of the river and valley, we took the opportunity to learn about the area’s fascinating history.
Ninilchik was originally inhabited by the Dena’ina Athabaskan people. Its name comes from the Dena’ina word “Niqnilchint,” meaning “lodge is built place.” In 1847, Russian colonists from Kodiak Island established a permanent community here. These settlers intermarried with the local Dena’ina and Alutiiq (Sugpiaq) people, creating a unique cultural blend. Isolated from other settlements, Ninilchik became a haven for retired employees of the Russian-American Company and their families. Remarkably, the community spoke a dialect of Russian for nearly 200 years, which has since been studied and preserved.
Between 1835 and 1840, the Russian-American Company attempted to create retirement communities in Alaska to allow former employees, especially those with bicultural families, to remain in the region. These self-sustaining settlements were expected to provide for themselves, with the company offering emergency aid and essential supplies. The first effort to establish a retirement colony in Ninilchik in 1841 failed, but in 1847, two families—Grigorii Kvasnikov’s family of nine and Iakov Knage’s family of four—successfully settled here. They were soon joined by three additional families, forming the first permanent retirement settlement on the Kenai Peninsula.
Many of Ninilchik’s residents trace their ancestry back to these original settlers, preserving a rich cultural heritage that reflects its unique blend of Russian, Dena’ina, and Alutiiq influences.
Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church
Nearby, we visited the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord Russian Orthodox Church, a beautiful landmark perched on a hill overlooking Ninilchik and Cook Inlet.
The original structure, a simple log building, was built in 1846 by the Russian settlers who established the community. As the settlement grew, the need for a larger, more permanent place of worship became apparent. In 1901, the current church was constructed to replace the original.
This new church was designed in the traditional Russian Orthodox style, featuring a cruciform layout and crowned with five golden onion domes, each topped with a cross. Shimmering in the light, the domes symbolize heaven and immediately draw the eye.
Today, the church is an active place of worship and a cultural and historical landmark. Surrounding the church is a small cemetery, where many of Ninilchik’s early settlers and their descendants are buried.
As we admired the church, we noticed a bald eagle perched in a large nest in a nearby clump of trees.
Kasilof State Recreation Site
As we continued north, we passed Rocky’s Cafe, which had an oversized swing bench. We had to stop and take pictures of it.
The Kasilof River originates from Tustumena Lake and flows northwest to Cook Inlet. It is approximately 17 miles long. Early Russian settlers named the river Kasilof, an anglicization of “Reka Kasilova.”
This was the first river that we had seen today that was milky blue due to its silty glacial content. From the boat launch, we saw a fish wheel across the river used to gather fish for research.
Baycrest RV Park
We continued north until we reached the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, just south of Soldotna. Unfortunately, the center was closed, so we could not explore its exhibits. The refuge, one of Alaska’s most significant protected areas, spans over 2 million acres and is home to diverse wildlife and landscapes. It is a crucial habitat for migratory birds and species like moose, brown bears, and Dall sheep.
As it was getting late, we decided to return to the campground. Throughout the day, fog shrouded the roads, and conditions worsened as we headed back. When we arrived, we could catch intermittent glimpses of the mountain range across the bay, its peaks barely visible through the mist, adding a serene yet mysterious touch to the evening.
Friday, Aug 9
Soldovia Wildlife Cruise
We had booked a Seldovia Wildlife Cruise for the day through Viator, and we were eager to explore the waters and wildlife of Kachemak Bay. The cruise offered a scenic journey along the coastline, with the chance to spot local wildlife and gain insights into the area’s ecology, history, and diverse marine life. It was the perfect way to experience the bay’s beauty from a unique perspective.
Gull Island
The boat first stopped off the coast of Gull Island, a famous bird rookery, where we got up close and personal with up to 15,000 seabirds. The island is a crucial nesting site, especially during the warmer months, and we could hear the cacophony of calls from the vast number of birds filling the air. The most common species we observed were the Glaucous-winged Gulls and black-legged Kittiwakes, their striking plumage contrasting against the rocky cliffs. Alongside them, we spotted Pigeon Guillemots, their black and white markings making them easy to identify as they darted in the water. We also saw large groups of Pelagic Cormorants, with their glossy dark feathers, outstretched wings drying in the sun, and the brightly colored Red-Faced Cormorants nesting along the cliffs.
A highlight was watching the charismatic Horned Puffins with their distinctive colorful beaks and the Tufted Puffins, whose wild head feathers added to their quirky charm. We could see Common Murres swooping in and out in the air, their sleek bodies diving into the ocean as they fished. Seeing so many species living and thriving together in this dynamic ecosystem was awe-inspiring, offering a rare glimpse into the area’s rich biodiversity. The boat gently circled the island, allowing us to marvel at the variety of bird life that made Gull Island their home, with the towering cliffs serving as the perfect backdrop for the bustling avian community.
Because of the rough seas, the captain said we needed to move on sooner than usual, which cut into our time at the island.
Gull Island to Soldovia
Shortly after leaving the island, we noticed a striking line in the water where the glacial meltwater met the seawater. The difference in temperature and density created a visible boundary, giving us a unique glimpse into the natural forces at play in the region.
As we cruised along, we neared Cohen Island, located near the entrance to Eldred Passage. The water became much calmer as we entered the passage, offering us a smoother ride and a clearer view of the surrounding scenery. Along the way, we passed a few kayakers paddling leisurely through the tranquil waters and several cabins tucked along the shoreline.
One of the most memorable sights was a rock formation resembling an elephant, standing tall and majestic against the backdrop of the surrounding waters. The Captain also pointed out other geological curiosities, explaining the exposed rock layers and their significance in the area’s history. We marveled at the Tutka and Sadie Fjords, which had been deglaciated over time, revealing scenic landscapes with cliffs and calm, crystal-clear waters.
Although we didn’t spot any whales, we enjoyed the stunning coastal scenery.
Soldovia
We arrived in Seldovia around 1:00 pm, greeted by a playful sea otter floating near the docks, a delightful first sight of the town. With 2.5 hours to explore, we were eager to dive into the town’s history and natural beauty.
Seldovia, established in the late 1800s, was once a bustling coastal hub for ships traveling between Seward, Kodiak, and other destinations around Cook Inlet, before Alaska’s road system was completed. At its peak, the town boasted over 2,000 residents, but today, fewer than 300 people call it home year-round, giving it a small, tight-knit community feel.
Our first stop was the Seldovia Visitor Center and Museum, which offered fascinating exhibits about the diverse people who have called Seldovia home. The displays highlighted the histories of the Aleut, Yupik, Alutiiq, Athabascan, Russian, and European-American communities. The museum’s mission is to raise public awareness about the rich legacy of the indigenous cultures in the area and showcase the unique blending of traditions in this coastal town.
After learning about Seldovia’s past, we strolled down Main Street, the town’s charming commercial hub. The street was dotted with wood carvings and outdoor artwork, each piece reflecting the town’s artistic spirit and connection to its natural surroundings. We enjoyed the sights, taking in the peaceful atmosphere of the town. Along the way, we stopped at the Seldovia Roasting Company, where we grabbed a cup of freshly brewed coffee and indulged in a delicious crepe from a nearby café.
Old Town Soldovia
Next, we walked over to Old Town Seldovia. For decades, the town was known as the “boardwalk town” because the buildings along the waterfront were built on pilings, connected by a wooden walkway. This design allowed the town to stay elevated above the extreme tides, which could reach up to 26 feet. However, the town underwent a dramatic transformation following the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake, which caused significant changes to the landscape.
The earthquake caused Seldovia to sink by four feet, submerging buildings once elevated above the high tides. As a result, the town’s boardwalk was no longer effective, and many buildings were flooded twice daily. In response, between 1965 and 1967, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers took action. They demolished structures in the flood zone and raised the land with rock blasted from a hill downtown. This reconstruction elevated the town and allowed for the development of a modern infrastructure, including roads, sewer systems, and piped water.
Today, Old Seldovia is a charming area centered around the Seldovia Slough. The rebuilt boardwalk area has become popular, with several quaint shops and lush gardens offering a glimpse into the town’s past. We enjoyed strolling along the boardwalk, taking in the scenic views, and soaking up the peaceful atmosphere of this historic part of Seldovia.
Wood Carvings
Seldovia is home to a vibrant art community, and the town proudly showcases a diverse range of artwork throughout its streets and public spaces. From murals to handcrafted jewelry, the town is a visual celebration of creativity. One of the most prominent forms of art in Seldovia is wood sculpture. The town’s picturesque setting, surrounded by natural beauty, serves as the perfect backdrop for these intricate works of art, which are often inspired by the wildlife and landscapes of the region.
We were able to spot an array of wood carvings throughout Seldovia—ranging from detailed depictions of animals like bears, eagles, and sea otters to abstract representations of the town’s heritage. These sculptures were found in front of local businesses, along the boardwalk and gardens, providing an inviting atmosphere for those walking through the town.
Fire Hydrants
In addition to its woodwork, Seldovia boasts various artistic expressions, including painting, pottery, and textiles. The creatively decorated fire hydrants are a unique feature of the town’s street art. This blend of various art forms has fostered a vibrant, creative spirit deeply woven into the fabric of Seldovia’s culture.
St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church
We climbed a set of stairs that led us to the top of a high bluff, where the Saint Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church stood proudly overlooking Seldovia. From this elevated vantage point, the church watches over the town’s fishermen and seafarers, offering them prosperity, peace, and safety. It’s a symbolic landmark for the community—one of the first sights fishermen see as they return to port, and one of the last glimpses they catch as they head out to sea.
The church, built in 1891, was established under the leadership of traveling Orthodox priests who made their way through the region. According to their archived journals, these priests often paddled bidarkas, or kayaks, from as far away as the Aleutian Islands and Kodiak to reach remote villages in Cook Inlet. They worked tirelessly to share their faith with the indigenous peoples, spreading Christianity throughout the area.
The existing bell tower was added in 1906 at the request of Bishop Innokentii, following a particularly rough sea voyage. Upon his arrival in Seldovia, after battling severe seasickness, he recovered quickly on land and held an all-night vigil in the chapel in honor of St. Nicholas. As the service concluded, he instructed the people of Seldovia to build a bell tower to honor the saint who had delivered him safely to shore.
The chapel, though small, stands as a testament to the enduring presence of Russian Orthodoxy in this part of Alaska. The church is still used today for Russian Orthodox holidays, weddings, funerals, and other special occasions whenever a priest or bishop is called to visit.
Return Cruise from Soldovia
We departed Seldovia around 3:30 p.m. The return trip was much faster, with the boat cutting through the water more smoothly. We stopped briefly a couple of times, hopeful that whales had been spotted, but unfortunately, none appeared.
As we neared the dock, the Captain pointed out the M/V Helenka B, a former Navy minesweeper initially named the USS Surfbird. Built in 1944, she earned battle stars in World War II, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War, where she became known as the “Lady of the Orient.” Decommissioned in 1970, she was sold in 1975 to Sam R. Brice, who modified her with a bow ramp, diesel engines, and a shortened hull. Renamed Helenka B after Brice’s wife, she now transports freight and heavy equipment around Cook Inlet, serving remote locations with her shallow draft.
Live Dungeness Crabs
When we returned, a caravan member told us about a boat on the docks selling Dungeness crabs and offered to cook them for us if we bought some. We found the boat, bought three crabs, and watched in fascination as they were prepared. The fisherman flipped the crabs onto their backs, removed the top shell to reveal the tender meat, and carefully discarded the gills and other inedible parts, preparing them for cooking.
Salty Dog Saloon
We joined the person who volunteered to cook the crabs and his wife at the Salty Dog Saloon and ordered margaritas. They didn’t stay long as they needed to prepare the grill, but Lisa and I remained, enjoying our drinks and soaking in the lively atmosphere of the saloon.
Baycrest Viewpoint
On our way back to the camper, we stopped at the Baycrest Viewpoint to capture some photos of our campground. Unfortunately, it was too far away for my camera to get a good shot.
Dungeness Crab Cookout
That evening, we were treated to an incredible crab dinner. The crabs were perfectly boiled, and their tender meat was sweet and flavorful. Alongside the crab, he served up perfectly grilled potato wedges, seasoned just right with a blend of herbs and spices that complemented the rich taste of the seafood. As we sat together with other caravan members enjoying the meal, the evening felt truly special—good food, great company, and a sense of camaraderie that made it a feast to remember.
Kenai Mountains
The fog lifted enough to reveal the Kenai Mountains across Kachemak Bay. Notable peaks include Mount Augustine, an active volcano on Augustine Island, and Mount Iliamna, with its glacier-covered summit. Further north, Mount Redoubt, another active volcano, looms in the distance. Together, these towering mountains provide a stunning backdrop to the bay’s coastal scenery.