Monday, 5 October
The Journey to Pomme de Terre State Park
We decided to explore some Missouri State Parks for a change of scenery after spending the last couple of months camping in Kansas State Parks. I initially hoped to plan a two-week trip to visit at least four parks, but finding reservations at Missouri State Parks proved much more challenging than in Kansas. After searching for weekend availability statewide without success, we opted for weekday camping instead, returning home on weekends. Even then, reservations were hard to come by. Eventually, I secured a spot at Pomme de Terre State Park.
Pomme de Terre State Park
We departed around 10 a.m. for the three-hour drive to Hermitage Campground at Pomme de Terre. The journey was challenging, with Lisa battling wind gusts of 20-25 mph. Our campsite, #228, had electricity but no water hookups, so we stopped at the dump station to fill our freshwater tank and ensure the grey and black tanks were empty. The site was gravel and quite sloped but offered a stunning lake view. Fortunately, we found a reasonably level spot to park the trailer. Lisa noted how much heavier the trailer felt while backing up with our water tanks full.
The weather was perfect, and setting up camp didn’t take long. Typically, we’d celebrate with a victory beer, but just days earlier, we had resolved to shed some pounds. Instead, we sat by the lake and enjoyed the view with a glass of water. Lunch was a simple, healthy spread of blackberries, carrots, and cottage cheese before we hopped into the truck to explore the park.
Pomme de Terre State Park is divided into two main areas: Hermitage and Pittsburg. Pittsburg’s campsites were more heavily wooded, with lake-view sites perched on steep terrain, necessitating built-up, paved “patios” for trailers. While the paved sites were a nice touch, we ultimately preferred Hermitage for its open green spaces and unobstructed lake views. We also visited the nearby Corps of Engineers (COE) campground, Nero Park, which, though small, was well-maintained and charming.
We searched for leftover firewood at campsites during our drive but came up empty-handed. At the park entrance, we noticed lockers containing bundles of firewood for sale—five bundles for $26. However, the process required calling the marina, which only operated on weekends. Lisa called Casey’s convenience store near the park, and they directed us to the Trading Post, where we purchased three bundles of firewood for just $2.99 each—much cheaper than the park’s option.
Back at the campsite, we took a stroll along the lake before Lisa prepared a delicious dinner of trout and asparagus. Unfortunately, the flies were relentless, so we opted to dine indoors. Afterward, we streamed the Chiefs game on Lisa’s phone and managed to cast it to the TV. We spent the rest of the evening inside, cheering for our team and enjoying the comforts of the camper.
Tuesday, 6 October
Morning
I woke up just before sunrise. It was 52 degrees outside, but I did not need to wear anything more than a sweatshirt jacket to stay warm. Lisa joined me just after sunrise. We had a breakfast of oatmeal and hard-boiled eggs to help with our efforts to lose weight.
Ha Ha Tonka State Park – Castle
We decided to visit Ha Ha Tonka State Park and the ruins of the European-styled castle, a dream of the wealthy Kansas City businessman Robert Snyder. He purchased 5,000 acres and began work on the castle in 1905, but he died in 1906 in one of Missouri’s first car accidents. After his death, Snyder’s sons continued work on the building and were able to complete the castle by 1920. It was later destroyed by a massive fire in 1942 and then bought by the state of Missouri in the 1970s. Today, all you can see are a few crumbling walls.
It took less than an hour to get to the park, and we were able to snag a parking place close to the ruins so that we did not have to walk uphill very much. The ruins were not all that exciting, but the views were beautiful, and the story was interesting.
Ha Ha Tonka State Park – Lake Trail
We then hiked the half-mile Lake Trail, which didn’t seem too long and offered a good chance to explore more of the park’s natural beauty. However, as we progressed, the trail became increasingly steep and rugged, which proved challenging for Lisa. Realizing she wasn’t comfortable continuing, she decided to wait for me while I finished the hike alone.
The trail led me down toward the lake, offering some breathtaking views. Eventually, it ended at a dock accessible to visitors who might have arrived at the park by boat. The peaceful setting by the water was a nice reward for the challenging hike, and I took some time to enjoy the scenery before heading back. Despite not completing the hike together, the experience was memorable, and Lisa was happy to relax at the trailhead, enjoying the surrounding beauty.
Ha Ha Tonka State Park – Natural Bridge
We then drove the truck halfway down the hill to a restroom before heading to the Natural Bridge.
The Natural Bridge was just a couple hundred yards from the parking lot. It was an impressive limestone arch spanning approximately 100 feet long, with the opening beneath the arch standing about 70 feet high and 20 feet wide.
I then hiked the Colosseum Trail, a 0.6-mile loop that took me under the natural bridge and up a steep 100-foot sinkhole. The trail continued with a figure-eight path across the top of the bridge, offering incredible views of the surrounding landscape.
When I returned, we found a peaceful spot to enjoy the picnic lunch that Lisa had packed. After lunch, we packed up and began our drive back to our campground, reflecting on the hike’s beauty and the park’s interesting features.
Kayaking Pomme de Terre Lake
When we got back to the park, the temperature was nice and warm so we quickly inflated the kayak and hit the water. The water was smooth as glass, so it was an easy and relaxing float.
Evening
When we returned to the campsite, we played some cornhole, which turned out to be a lot of fun and a great way to unwind.
For dinner, Lisa cooked up some delicious burgers and squash while I tried using a slingshot that had been a Christmas gift. I aimed at some water bottles about 50 feet away but quickly realized it was much harder than I had anticipated to hit them accurately.
After dinner, I worked on starting a fire, but it was a struggle at first due to the damp wood. It took about half an hour, but eventually, the fire caught and settled into a steady blaze.
We spent some time enjoying the warmth of the fire and the peaceful outdoors before heading inside to relax and watch TV just as the day came to an end.
Wednesday, 7 October
Morning
The following day, we enjoyed listening to the sunrise noises of the squawking ducks, squirrels, and birds. After breakfast, we decided to visit some more local attractions.
The National Shrine of Mary, Mother of the Church
Our first destination was the National Shrine of Mary, Mother of the Church, located in Laurie, approximately 55 miles away. While neither of us is Catholic, we have always found shrines to be both beautiful and awe-inspiring. Our journey took us east on US-54 toward the Lake of the Ozarks and then north on MO-15 through the scenic Lake of the Ozarks area.
The National Shrine of Mary, Mother of the Church, is a serene and sacred space dedicated to honoring mothers and celebrating Mary’s universal role as the mother of Christ. At the center of the shrine stands a stunning 14-foot rotating stainless steel sculpture of Mary, glinting in the sunlight as it slowly turns. Its polished black granite base is engraved with the names of countless mothers.
Surrounding this focal point is a vast, open-air, coliseum-style church with seating for 6,000 people. The seating offers unobstructed views of both the impressive sculpture and the central stage, where various ceremonies and events are held throughout the year.
The shrine is nestled in a beautifully landscaped setting, complete with fountains, vibrant flower gardens, and meticulously maintained lawns. Walking paths wind gently through the grounds. As we strolled, we found the combination of nature and spirituality deeply calming and inspiring.
Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area
We then drove to the FLW Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area (LORA), a scenic 50-minute drive away. This military-owned retreat, managed by Fort Leonard Wood, offers a serene getaway along the picturesque Lake of the Ozarks. Nestled on a secluded stretch of the lake, LORA features breathtaking views of rolling hills, lush forests, and direct access to the water. The facility provides a variety of accommodations, including rustic lakeside cabins with modern amenities, spacious RV sites with full hookups, and traditional tent camping areas. The marina is the heart of lake activities, offering boat rentals ranging from pontoons and fishing boats to jet skis. A sandy beach and designated swimming area add to the family-friendly atmosphere, making it an ideal spot for relaxation and recreation.
Lake of the Ozarks is a sprawling reservoir covering approximately 54,000 acres with over 1,100 miles of shoreline. Created by the construction of the Bagnell Dam on the Osage River in 1931, the lake is renowned for its stunning natural beauty, with rolling hills, dense forests, and secluded coves.
With the weather perfect for a day on the water, we decided to launch our inflatable kayak from the boat ramp. We spent several delightful hours paddling around, taking in the scenic views.
Afterward, we returned to the camper, where we had dinner and watched the sunset, wrapping up a perfect day on the lake.
Thursday, 8 October
Nathan and Olivia Boone State Historic Site
The following day, we headed south to explore the Nathan and Olive Boone State Historic Site, about 60 miles away near Ash Grove, Missouri.
Nathan Boone, the youngest son of the legendary frontiersman Daniel Boone, was a skilled hunter, soldier, surveyor, and businessman. He was known for his adventurous spirit and strong leadership on the frontier. His wife, Olive, was equally remarkable—a resilient and resourceful woman whose practical care and management of the household allowed Nathan to focus on his many pursuits outside the home. Together, they created a lasting legacy in the Ozarks, and their homestead from the 1830s is now preserved at the site.
Although the visitor center was closed due to COVID-19, we could still explore the homestead on several walking trails that wind through the park. Our first stop was the Boone Family Cemetery, where Nathan, Olive, and other family members were laid to rest. It was a peaceful place to reflect on their legacy.
We then made our way to the site’s centerpiece—the restored home of Nathan and Olive Boone. Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside due to ongoing maintenance and restrictions, but we stood on the porch, taking in the breathtaking Ozark views. It was easy to imagine what it must have been like for the Boones to gaze upon the same scenery that surrounded them all those years ago.
Continuing along the trail through the surrounding hills, we enjoyed the tranquility of the landscape. The area remained largely untouched since the Boones lived there, offering a glimpse of the natural beauty that played an important role in their lives.
Stockton State Park
We then headed over to Stockton State Park to do some more kayaking.
Stockton Lake is a beautiful man-made reservoir covering nearly 2,000 acres. Nestled between rolling hills and surrounded by lush forests, the lake offers stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere. It was created by the Stockton Dam on the Sac River and was completed in the 1960s to provide flood control, water supply, and recreational opportunities.
We launched from the marina and enjoyed several hours on the water.
Pomme de Terre Lake Dam
We stopped at the Pomme de Terre Lake Dam on the way back to the campground. This dam was an earthen embankment with a concrete spillway built primarily for flood control, water supply, and recreational purposes. It was that helps manage water flow from the Pomme de Terre River.
After admiring the views from the top of the dam, we drove behind the dam to the Outlet Park to view the rear of the dam and enjoy the water flowing down the outlet channel.
Afterward, we returned to the campground for the evening.
Friday, 9 October
After breakfast, we headed back to Kansas City.