Sunday, August 9
We hit the road for Wilson State Park by 10 a.m., with the heat already making its presence known. The two-hour drive was mostly on I-70 and went by quickly.
Wilson State Park immediately stood out for its hilly terrain, a refreshing change from the flat landscapes we had traveled through for the past week. Known for having the clearest lake in Kansas and being one of the most popular parks in the state, it lived up to its reputation. Finding our site, Wheatgrass #39, proved tricky due to unhelpful signage, but the downloaded park map saved the day.
Our site was a pull-through gravel lot offering a stunning lake view. Although the site was short and unlevel, we positioned the trailer well and used levelers to balance everything. Unfortunately, the west-facing orientation meant our awning wouldn’t offer much shade in the afternoon. A few shade trees were nearby—not close enough for the trailer but perfect for setting up chairs when the heat became oppressive. We immediately noticed the sheer number of flies in the area.
After setting up, we treated ourselves to margaritas while soaking in the lake view. Once refreshed, we hopped into the truck to explore the park. Wilson remained bustling, unlike other state parks that empty on Sunday afternoons. We noticed many locals left their trailers locked up for future visits. The park was expansive, with nine campgrounds scattered throughout, all nearly full. A large marina housed numerous houseboats, and the park included a storage area for trailers and boats.
The lake itself was stunning, surrounded by limestone cliffs. Dozens of boats and personal watercraft zipped across its surface, adding to the lively atmosphere. After our drive, we felt fortunate to have secured a site, especially one with such a beautiful view of the lake.
We poured another round of margaritas at the trailer, donned our swimsuits, and went to the water. A path through the weeds led us to a sandy beach area. The lake water was crystal-clear, cool, and inviting. The sandy bottom was mostly weed-free, making it a perfect spot to float around in our life preservers and relax.
Lisa prepared a delicious meal of ribs, mashed potatoes, and green beans for dinner. The heat and relentless flies made it hard to enjoy dining outside, so we retreated to the air-conditioned comfort of the trailer to watch YouTube. As the evening cooled slightly, we ventured outside around 8 p.m. to watch the sunset, but the flies soon drove us indoors again.
We wrapped up the day by alternating between YouTube and Netflix before heading to bed, grateful for the air conditioning and another beautiful day of exploring.
Monday, August 10
The morning was comfortable, but it got hot quickly. We had a breakfast of eggs and turkey sausage. Neither of us liked the sausage so most of it got thrown away.
Kayak
Around 10 a.m., we inflated the kayak and launched it from the beach near our campsite.
The wind was light, making for perfect paddling conditions, so we crossed the lake to explore some rocky outcroppings on the opposite shore. The water was beautifully clear, and the cliffs were mesmerizing, with intricate patterns carved by years of erosion. It felt like we had discovered a hidden piece of natural artwork.
After a few hours on the water, we returned to our beach and enjoyed a refreshing swim. The clear, cool water was irresistible, and we floated lazily before heading back to the trailer for showers.
After lunch, we felt ready to explore beyond the park. Though few attractions were nearby, one stood out for its quirky charm: the “World’s Largest Ball of Sisal Twine.” Intrigued, we set off to see this unique roadside wonder.
Sylvan Park
We took some time to explore Sylvan Park, a Corps of Engineers (COE) campground located near the spillway behind the dam. The park was well-maintained, with spacious campsites. However, the sites only offered a view of the backside of the dam rather than the lake itself.
Since it was a weekday, the campground was relatively quiet, with most sites sitting empty. However, many were already tagged as reserved for the upcoming weekend, reflecting the park’s popularity. The spillway area was interesting, with water flowing steadily.
Spillman Creek Bridge
Next, we stopped at the Spillman Creek Double-Arch Limestone Bridge, a historic structure preserved by the local historical society. Built by early settlers using native limestone, the bridge was no longer in use but stood as an example of the craftsmanship and ingenuity of its time.
Situated near a small park with picnic tables, the site provided a peaceful spot to appreciate the bridge’s historical significance. Walking across the arches, we imagined the days when wagons and early cars passed over it.
St. Boniface/Grotto of Lourdes
On our way to Cawker City, we stumbled upon the Grotto of Lourdes in front of St. Boniface Church in Tipton. Built around 1934, the grotto was created during the Great Depression with the help of over $250 in donations from the local community. The project was led by Father Charles Menig, a priest dedicated to enriching the spiritual life of his congregation and leaving a lasting legacy for future generations.
The Grotto is an architectural replica of the famous Grotto of Lourdes in France, where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a young girl named Bernadette Soubirous in 1858. The Tipton grotto’s construction utilized native limestone gathered from the nearby Blue Hills, with some stones believed to have been personally collected by Father Menig from the Lourdes region in France.
Largest Ball of Twine, Cawker City
The World’s Largest Ball of Twine is in Cawker City, nestled along the banks of the man-made Waconda Lake, also known as Glen Elder Reservoir. As we entered the town from the east, along a paved road on the up-river side of the lake, we were greeted by a swampy, muddy landscape. The wind was so strong that it nearly blew my glasses off as I tried to snap a few pictures. The dam, which creates the reservoir, sits west of the town.
A large dike protects Cawker City, and despite the town’s reported population of around 400, it had an eerily deserted feel. We made our way down Main Street in search of the famous twine ball, initially passing it by without noticing. However, when we turned around and headed back down the street, the ball’s gazebo-like structure became impossible to miss. The enormous ball of twine, housed under a roofed structure, stood proudly as the quirky town’s main attraction.
After capturing the obligatory pictures and selfies, we took a moment to read the informational boards that explained the ball’s history. The twine ball, started by local farmer Frank Stoeber in 1953, now weighs over 20,000 pounds and continues to grow with contributions from visitors. As a token of our visit, we left one of our #ShryockRocks at the site, adding our small piece to this whimsical landmark.
Glen Elder State Park
We then headed to Glen Elder State Park to explore, but unfortunately, the park left us unimpressed. Most utility campgrounds resembled gravel parking lots, with trailers parked close together. The sites were primarily occupied by seasonal campers, many of whom had their campers surrounded by an assortment of lake toys, contributing to the cluttered and somewhat chaotic atmosphere. To make matters worse, the dumpsters we encountered overflowed, and the area had a neglected, trashy feel.
Beyond the campgrounds, the park mostly consisted of treeless fields, offering little natural beauty or shade. The large marina area, though functional, felt more like a trailer and boat storage facility than a vibrant recreation space. There was a restored Methodist Church on the grounds, but it didn’t have much character or historical significance to make it stand out.
Overall, we found Glen Elder State Park lacking in charm and amenities, and we decided to cross it off our list as a place to return to in the future.
Lincoln
On our way back to the camper, we encountered some curious metal creatures along Highway 18 near Lincoln and later near Sylvan Grove. We later discovered that these intriguing sculptures are part of the “Open Range Zoo,” created by artist Jim Dickerman to promote his Soaring Heart Gallery art studio near Beverly, Kansas. The whimsical sculptures, which dotted the landscape, added an unexpected touch of creativity to our drive.
We also stopped briefly in Lincoln to admire some of the town’s historic architecture. With its striking design, the 1901 Lincoln County Courthouse was particularly impressive, as was the 1913 City Hall, which exuded charm and character.
Lucas Park Recreation Area
Just before crossing the dam and reaching the state park, we took a detour through the Lucas Park Recreation Area, located across the lake from our campsite. Lucas Park was spacious, with many well-maintained sites on the water’s edge, offering stunning lake views. Although the park appeared nearly empty during our visit, every site had reservation tags for the upcoming weekend, indicating that it was a popular spot for campers.
Evening
That night, a powerful severe thunderstorm rolled through to the south, bringing strong winds. I quickly scrambled to secure everything we had outside. Since our kayak was still inflated, I secured it to a tree with bungee cords to prevent it from blowing away. Aside from the grill, everything else was stowed safely in the truck or the trailer. The storm clouds were spectacular, so I stayed outside, watching as they swirled in the sky until darkness set in. Eventually, the storm reached us, bringing flashes of lightning and a heavy downpour. The rain came down in torrents, but I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the storm’s intensity.
Tuesday, August 11
Kayak
I woke early enough to catch a stunning sunrise over the lake. The calm wind and heavy fog created an eerie yet peaceful atmosphere.
After breakfast, we decided to kayak to Rocktown to see the famous rock formations. The steady wind worked in my favor for the trip out, but I knew it would be against me on the return. Still, the formations looked incredible in the photos, and I was eager to see them in person.
The journey was scenic, with limestone cliffs lining the shores and making the paddle both beautiful and enjoyable. It took us over two hours to reach the formations, but when we arrived, we could stretch our legs by climbing around the rocks and even taking a quick swim. Unfortunately, Lisa’s swim was cut short as small fish started nibbling at her, which made for a less-than-relaxing dip.
After resting and exploring the area, we began the tough paddle back. The wind had picked up, pushing against us the entire way. About two-thirds of the way back, we stopped on a small island to give my arms a break and do some rock hunting, which was a fun distraction. We were exhausted but satisfied with the adventure when we finally returned to shore.
Wilson, Czech Capital of Kansas
Since we were planning to move to a new state park the next day and needed gas, we decided to make a trip to the town of Wilson, known as the Czech Capital of Kansas. The town is famous for its Czech heritage and unique cultural displays, including the painted Czech eggs that can be found around the community. We stopped by Grandma’s Soda Shop for take-out. Lisa opted for chicken fingers, while I decided to dive into the local Volga German culture with two Bieroches and a 6-piece serving of corn nuggets. The shop also made sodas, so Lisa had a refreshing lemon-lime soda, and I went for a classic root beer.
We took our food to a nearby Lion’s Club park to enjoy our meal. The Bieroch was delicious, though I probably wouldn’t order two next time, as they were incredibly filling. The chicken fingers and corn nuggets were a hit, too. We learned that Bieroches are a traditional Volga German dish—pastry dough filled with seasoned beef, cabbage, and onions—and are a staple in the region.
Afterward, we explored the town, snapping photos of the painted Czech eggs scattered throughout, each representing a unique local culture. The World’s Largest Czech Egg, located near the town center under a pavilion, was certainly a highlight of our visit. We had visited several years ago, but the smaller eggs weren’t on display then, so seeing the community’s new additions was exciting. We also wandered around and discovered the historic water tower, which had once served as the town’s jail—a quirky piece of local history. Seeing how the town embraced its Czech heritage while preserving its unique past was very interesting. We also spotted the Czech Hall, which hosts events like polka dances, adding to the town’s lively cultural atmosphere.
Before we left, we admired the charming murals scattered around the town, many depicting scenes from Czech folklore and history.
Minooka COE
After fueling up, we decided to take the scenic route into the state park. I’m glad we didn’t bring the trailer along for that detour—it was a poorly maintained road with steep hills that would have made towing challenging. Along the way, we passed through the Minooka COE campground at the lake’s southern end. As with the other COE campgrounds we had visited, it was well-kept, though the lack of trees was noticeable. Still, it was clear that the park staff took pride in maintaining the area.
As we entered the state park, we couldn’t help but laugh at the sight of half a dozen mowers, all busy trimming the grass like a swarm of beetles. It was a comically organized scene as they worked together to tidy the grounds.
On our way back to the state park, I quickly snapped a picture of a five-foot-tall metal statue of a fishing bobber. It was a quirky and fun photo op, adding to the charm of our drive.
Evening
When we got back to the trailer, we chilled indoors until bedtime.
Wednesday, August 12
It was intermittently raining when we woke up. Being that it was mid-week, there was no fear of getting to the dump station early so we just waited until there was a break in the rain before we finished packing. About mid-morning there was a small break, so we finished packing, got the tanks empty at the dump station, and were on the way to El Dorado State Park before it started raining again.
