Sunday, 5 July
We set off for Cross Timbers State Park on a hot, humid, and windless day. By the time we arrived, most of the 4th of July weekend campers had left, leaving the park much quieter. We enjoy camping during the week when the crowds are thinner, though weekends are often booked up well in advance, so we don’t have many options.
Our campsite was great—located at the edge of the campground with a gravel base and shaded by trees, although some branches hung a bit too low for my liking. Despite that, we managed to park and level the trailer quickly. Our site was the last one in the area, offering a peaceful view of nothing but trees and the lake. We hooked up the electricity, turned on the air conditioner, and set the refrigerator to cool before settling in with a cold beer to unwind.
After a few drinks, we grabbed some water bottles and walked around the lake and through the campground. The lake was a typical muddy reservoir, with many dead trees dotting the water’s edge. It wasn’t the most scenic lake but had its rustic charm. Once we returned to camp, we finished setting up, and Lisa cooked us a delicious dinner of tilapia and asparagus, which turned out great. Afterward, we relaxed briefly before taking another walk around the area.
When we returned, we headed inside to cool off and enjoy dessert. Lisa grilled some pound cake, then topped it with fresh fruit and whipped cream. The recipe called for shortcake, but our grocery pickup had made a mix-up, and I have to say, the swap worked out surprisingly well.
With very little cell service and no TV stations, I had anticipated the lack of entertainment and downloaded a few movies on Netflix to watch on my laptop. We ended the night with a movie and then admitted that the heat had taken its toll on us. We headed to bed, where the air conditioner had already cooled the trailer down nicely, though we used a floor fan to keep the sticky air circulating.
Monday, 6 July
I woke up around 6:30, grabbed my coffee, and sat outside to write in my journal. The air was thick and sticky, with no wind to cool things down. The soft hum of the air conditioner masked some of the usual morning nature sounds I love, but I could still hear the birds singing in the distance.
When Lisa got up, we enjoyed a French toast and sausage breakfast. Afterward, we explored one of the park’s 1.5-mile trails, which wound through a grove of trees along the lake. It was a peaceful, quiet walk.
Back at camp, we took showers, packed a lunch, and explored the rest of the park and the dam area. The park was divided into several camping areas, each offering plenty of space for trailers. I imagined it would get quite crowded on weekends, so I was again grateful to be here during the week. As is typical with Kansas state parks, some of the better sites with water views didn’t have utilities, which added to the rustic charm of the place.
After exploring the park, we decided to drive around the lake. The state park had four camping areas scattered across the lake. We stayed in the main area, Toronto Point, while Mann’s Cave, a primitive camping site, lay opposite. Further along, on either side of the dam, were two more areas—Woodson Cove, which also seemed primitive but had some utilities, as evidenced by an old-school bus camper that appeared to be a full-time residence, possibly for the camp host.
When we crossed the dam, it was already 2 pm, and we realized we hadn’t eaten lunch. Luckily, a Corps of Engineers parking area nearby overlooked the dam, so we pulled in to enjoy our lunch with a scenic view.
Afterward, we drove across the dam and down to the spillway area. It’s always fascinating to see the back of a dam and check out the floodgates. A small trickle of water flowed from the dam down a creek bed that, judging by its jagged rocks, had once seen much more water.
Next to the dam, we discovered the final park area, Holiday Hill and Blackjack Campground. It was a large, mostly empty campground with a section that looked like it might have been a beach at one point, though it was now overgrown. We explored it briefly before continuing our drive.
We attempted to drive around the lake but ended up on a maze of gravel roads. Eventually, we found a spot with cell phone coverage, allowing Lisa to make an oil change appointment at the dealership. However, we couldn’t find a road that completely circled the lake, so we turned back and headed back to camp.
Once we returned, we decided to take the kayak out on the lake. The water was smooth and warm, and we had the entire lake with no one else around. As we paddled, we noticed dark clouds rolling in, and the distant thunder grew louder. Realizing a storm was approaching, we returned to the trailer. Just as we finished stowing the kayak, the rain started to pour.
After rinsing off in the showers, Lisa had to remove a tick from me, which seems to happen quite often. Thankfully, the rain didn’t last long. We extended the awning to shield ourselves from the last drizzle, and Lisa cooked a delicious dinner of chicken thighs, sliced squash, and a southwestern salad.
After dinner, I played my guitar for a bit while Lisa read. Later, we headed inside, and Lisa grilled some honey buns, topping them with chocolate drizzle and whipped cream for dessert. We watched a movie on my laptop before heading to bed, content after a fulfilling day.
Tuesday, 7 July
Ancient Trees Trail
We decided to start our hike right after our first cup of coffee this morning, taking advantage of the cool weather before breakfast made its demands. We set off on the Ancient Trees Trail near the park’s entrance, a short path with signs pointing out ancient trees and tree stumps, some of which were hundreds of years old. Unfortunately, we missed a turn and only walked about half a mile before emerging at a campground area.
We enjoyed a hearty breakfast of eggs, leftover sausage, toast, and avocado at the trailer, fueling up for the rest of the day.
Yates Center
After cleaning up, we drove over to Yates Center, where we spotted a sign directing us to a museum and historical square. Sadly, the museum was closed, but we explored the grounds, which featured a restored log cabin, an old church, and some rusted farm implements. We then took a quick tour of the city center and paused to read about its history on Wikipedia.
Hoping to find a nice park for lunch, we searched Google and found a rest area about five miles away. We decided to check it out, and were pleasantly surprised to find a well-maintained space with a mowed lawn, shade trees, and a clean bathroom.
Iola
After lunch, we continued our journey and made our way to Iola, hoping to find a local ice cream shop. Unfortunately, we didn’t find one but came across a museum and a park with a large clock. We parked and learned that the clock had originally been part of the town hall. Nearby, we visited the Allen County Historical Society Museum, where a $2 donation got us in. The museum displayed various items related to the county’s history, including Civil War artifacts, information about a failed Vegetarian Settlement, and the story of a local girl who became Miss America in 1968. We also learned about the Funston family, who produced two notable figures: Edward Funston, who served as a lieutenant in the Civil War and later became an important political figure, and his son, General Frederick Funston, who served in multiple conflicts, including the Spanish-American War, the Philippines, and the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. General Funston was awarded the Medal of Honor for his actions in the Philippines.
Next door, we toured the restored Funston family home, originally built in the 1860s and relocated from about five miles away. The house was well-preserved, and even the outhouse had been moved to the site. Adjacent to the house was a building dedicated to honoring General Fred Funston.
Dairy Queen & Sunflowers
After visiting the museum, we stopped at the nearby Dairy Queen to grab shakes before returning to the trailer. We stumbled upon a field of sunflowers on the way, so we pulled over to walk through the vibrant field and snap a few pictures.
Cross Timbers State Park
Once back at the trailer, I practiced my guitar while Lisa enjoyed a book. For dinner, we made Philly steak sandwiches with fried potato slices. Afterward, I washed the dishes, packed up the kayak, and tidied up the grill and a few other items before the bugs drove us inside. We settled in and watched a movie on my laptop before heading to bed, content after another fulfilling day.
Wednesday, 8 July
Overlook Trail
After a light breakfast of Pop-Tarts, I finished packing up the truck. We wanted to squeeze in one last trail before leaving, so we drove to the Overlook Trail near the dam. This 1.5-mile trail was rated moderate to difficult and didn’t disappoint. The path wound through a lovely wooded area but included a few tricky spots for Lisa, especially where it crossed ravines and had steep climbs. Lisa handled it like a pro, and we both enjoyed the challenge, finding the trail as beautiful as it was fun.
Once we returned to the truck, we cracked open a beer, finished hooking up the trailer, and made a quick stop at the dump station before heading over to Crawford State Park.