Monday, October 21
We set off for Gallup, NM, just under two hours away, according to Google Maps. The forecast called for strong winds to pick up later in the day, so we aimed to arrive before the conditions got too rough. Lisa said it was still pretty windy when we arrived despite our efforts.
USA RV Park
We arrived at the USA RV Park and set up camp before noon. The park had spacious, pull-through gravel lots, but it lacked shade and was far from scenic. However, it was well-maintained, and we appreciated the cleanliness. The park had a distinct military vibe, with decorations honoring the armed forces in the office and a sign offering free camping to active-duty military personnel. Outside, numerous American flags proudly flew in the wind.
Route 66 Railway Cafe
After filling up on gas, we headed to the Route 66 Railway Cafe, a quaint diner recommended by the front desk. Situated across from the railway, it had a cozy, old-school charm. I enjoyed a club sandwich with cottage cheese, while Lisa opted for a classic hamburger.
El Malpais National Monument
Next, we drove back east to visit El Malpais National Monument, hoping to arrive before it closed. Along the way, we spotted what appeared to be piles of black asphalt, which we later learned were ancient lava flows. The monument protects an expansive lava flow that covers hundreds of acres, and we took a scenic drive through the park, fascinated by the stark volcanic landscape.
Grant
On our way back, we stopped in Grant, where we snapped photos of old neon Route 66 signs. We also stopped at a local park, where we had fun taking pictures with a large Route 66 sign that you could drive through.
Continental Divide
We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit the Continental Divide and stopped at the Top of the World gift shop, though it was closed for the day. Still, the stop was worth it for the iconic views and photo opportunities.
Red Rock State Park
We visited Red Rock State Park in Gallup, where we admired Church Rock and explored an outdoor arena nestled against towering red rock cliffs. The striking landscape added to the allure of the area.
Gallup
We also explored downtown Gallup, eventually stopping by the El Rancho Hotel, a historic establishment with a distinctive ranch-house design. The lobby was lined with over a hundred autographed photos of celebrities who had stayed there, including John Wayne, making it easy to imagine the stars staying here while filming Westerns in the surrounding desert.
Fratelli’s
We couldn’t find any Route 66 restaurants that stood out for dinner, so we decided to try Fratelli’s, a highly-rated pizza place on Yelp. We enjoyed a delicious pepperoni pizza paired with a Zombie Pale Ale from Roswell for me and a Coors Light for Lisa. For dessert, we indulged in fresh gelato. While the gelato wasn’t as good as you’d find in Italy, it was still a treat we thoroughly enjoyed.
Tuesday, October 22
Morning
When we woke up, the temperature was a chilly 21 degrees. We decided to use the trailer’s heater for the first time to keep the undercarriage warm and prevent any pipes from freezing. The heater wasn’t too noisy, but it did dry out the moisture inside the trailer, and there was a bit of a strange smell to it.
Route 66 West of Gallup
After refueling, we headed west toward Arizona. The Route 66 stretch in western Arizona is fragmented, with little to drive on, so we opted to head directly to the Petrified Forest National Park and explore the roadside attractions on our way back. As we left Gallup, we passed a few old neon signs and the infamous trading posts at the New Mexico-Arizona border. We also came across a stretch of original Route 66 pavement and lots of arid desert land.
Petrified Forest National Park
It took us about an hour to reach the Petrified Forest National Park. We first stopped at the visitor center to purchase our Annual National Park Pass, get our passport stamped, and grab a map of the park. This was the first national park we had to pay to enter, so the annual pass felt like a good investment for other parks we planned to visit.
The park offered colorful overlooks and hiking stops, where we marveled at vibrant rock formations in hues of red, blue, purple, and gray. We also explored ancient pueblo ruins and scattered pockets of petrified wood. After spending about four hours in the park, Lisa’s Fitbit tracked over 10,000 steps. We also bought a magnet from the gift shop before leaving.
Joe & Aggie’s, Holbrook, AZ
By 2:30 pm (1:30 PST after crossing into a new time zone), we were getting hungry and headed to Holbrook based on a recommendation from a park ranger. After a quick photo op at a sizeable petrified wood store, we arrived at Joe & Aggie’s Restaurant around 3:30 pm. This humble eatery specializes in Mexican and American dishes. I tried their Navajo Taco, a hearty taco salad served on fry bread, while Lisa had a burrito with rice, beans, and a sopapilla. The restaurant had a worn-out charm, with torn booth seats and Route 66 memorabilia covering the walls. The owners later told us they inspired several characters in the movie Cars.
Rock Shop
After our late lunch, we visited the nearby Rock Shop, which displayed petrified wood and dinosaur statues outside for some fun photo opportunities.
Wigwam Motel
Next, we stopped at the Wigwam Motel, built in the 1950s. The vintage motel featured tepees, each with a classic vehicle parked in front, including one decorated as Tow Mater from Cars. Inside the office, we found a small collection of Route 66 memorabilia on display.
Geronimo Trading Post
We continued our Route 66 adventure by stopping at the Geronimo Trading Post, known for boasting the largest petrified tree. After taking photos, we attempted to use the restroom, but a sign on the door indicated it was out of order, which made my urgency even worse!
Chief Yellowhorse Trading Post
As it started getting late, we made one final stop at the Chief Yellowhorse Trading Post on the New Mexico-Arizona border. We learned that this was the oldest trading post in the area, still run by descendants of the founder. The shop owner shared a local legend about the large rock formation behind the trading post, where plastic animals adorned the ledge, and a faded mural depicted an Indian village.
Afterward, we stopped at a nearby truck stop so I could finally use the restroom.
Painted Desert Indian Center
On our way back, we passed the Painted Desert Indian Center, featuring teepees and dinosaur sculptures. It looked like a place worth visiting, but we opted to continue back to the trailer.
Fort Courage
We also stopped at the abandoned Fort Courage Trading Post, designed to look like an old fort. The structure was well-preserved, though the surrounding area was empty except for an RV parked near the abandoned pancake house next door.
Near Lupton, we admired the stunning plateaus before heading back to Gallup.
Gallup
When we got back to Gallup, we stopped and bought some groceries as well as some ice cream. When we got back to the trailer, I emptied the black/grey tanks so that I did not have to do it in the freezing cold in the morning while Lisa put away the groceries. Afterward, we enjoyed some Netflix and ice cream before bed.