Tuesday, October 15
Drive to Amarillo
The fog lingered as we set out on the drive to Amarillo, its dense blanket making the world feel hushed and surreal. As we left the city behind, the mist began to dissipate, revealing the wide, open expanse of the Texas panhandle. The land stretched flat in every direction, dotted occasionally with a distant farmhouse or windmill. It’s a landscape that feels endless and quiet, where the horizon seems to stretch forever and you get the sense that you’re on the edge of the world.
Fort Amarillo RV Resort
We arrived at the Fort Amarillo RV Resort, tucked off Route 66 on the western side of Amarillo. The park was designed with a charming frontier-style wooden fence and fort-like structures that gave it a sense of history, as though you were stepping into an old Western town.
The Big Texan
After setting up the trailer, we ventured out to the Big Texan Steakhouse. Located just off Route 66, it’s a destination in its own right. The place exudes a larger-than-life Texas charm, complete with over-the-top Western decor and a giant steer outside. Inside, we were greeted with the sight of the famous 72 oz steak challenge, but we had no intention of attempting it this time around. We had been there nearly 10 years ago, and we were excited to see how it had changed since our last visit.
To our surprise, the Big Texan had expanded into a brewery. The addition of their beer offerings gave the place a new, fresh vibe, and we couldn’t resist ordering a flight of their craft beers. I opted for a steak since we were in a steakhouse, while Lisa chose a juicy hamburger. The food was hearty and flavorful, a perfect way to enjoy the Texas experience.
After our meal, we wandered around the grounds, marveling at the quirky signs and oversized cowboy-themed decor. One of the highlights was the set of portraits that morphed into eerie, distorted faces as you walked by them. We tried to recreate a photo we’d taken nearly a decade ago but found that the props were nowhere to be found. Next to the Big Texan was a motel with a façade designed to look like an old Western town, adding another layer of fun to our visit.
Cadillac Ranch
Our next stop was Cadillac Ranch, an iconic public art installation located in a field along Route 66. This eccentric creation, constructed in 1974 by a group of California hippies and funded by a millionaire, features ten Cadillacs buried nose-first in the dirt, representing the evolution of the Cadillac tail fin from 1949 to 1963. Over the years, the cars have become canvases for graffiti, with visitors encouraged to spray-paint their own art on the vehicles.
When we arrived, the place was already crowded, though we had expected it to be quieter given the off-season timing. I’d brought along a couple of cans of spray paint specifically for this moment, and Lisa and I had fun contributing our marks to the ever-growing layer of colorful graffiti. The thick layers of paint on the cars were fascinating to see—some areas were smooth and shiny with years of coats, while other spots had deep grooves where the paint had built up.
2nd Amendment Cowboy
Just down the road from Cadillac Ranch, at the entrance to the Cadillac Ranch RV Park, stood a muffler man known as the 2nd Amendment Cowboy. The figure, decked out in a cowboy hat and boots, was emblazoned with the words “2nd Amendment” on his shirt, but curiously, he wasn’t holding any firearms. Around him, three Cadillacs stood proudly, though these weren’t subject to the same spray paint treatment as the ones at Cadillac Ranch. It was a quirky, offbeat roadside attraction that captured the spirit of the area—a mix of humor, Americana, and an unmistakable sense of Texan pride.
VW Slug Bug Ranch
On the east side of Amarillo, we discovered the lesser-known VW Slug Bug Ranch. It’s another public art installation where Volkswagen Beetles are planted nose-first into the ground, a quirky homage to the famous “slug bug” game. The lot was far less crowded than Cadillac Ranch, but we had a great time spray-painting the Beetles and leaving our own marks on this unique site. The Beetles, some covered in faded paint and others covered in layers of graffiti, felt like a nostalgic trip back in time, reminding us of the heyday of the Volkswagen Bug in America.
Texas Panhandle
We decided to take a detour and explore more of the Texas panhandle. The area was stark and desolate, with stretches of land that seemed almost uninhabited. At one gas station, we spotted a van with an adorable otter painted on the side, and we couldn’t resist taking a picture of it. A bit further down the road, we saw a driveway marked with a pair of giant pistols. Seeing these bizarre little details in the middle of nowhere was strange yet fascinating.
As we ventured deeper into the desolation of the panhandle, our cell phone coverage disappeared, and we found ourselves driving through vast stretches of land with few signs of human habitation. Our plan to zigzag back toward the west side of Amarillo was foiled by the limited number of roads, and we found ourselves heading north by mistake. After about an hour of driving, we turned around and headed back. Despite the frustration of getting off track, it gave us a chance to soak in the overwhelming emptiness of the landscape.
On the way back, we stumbled upon a tree marked as the first tree planted in the Texas panhandle. In 1888, pioneer Thomas Cree had traveled 35 miles to find a sapling and planted it at this site. The tree stood as a symbol of perseverance, surviving harsh winters and droughts for many years, though it was ultimately killed by nearby pesticides in the 1960s. The current tree, planted by locals in 1990, stands as a memorial to the pioneers who first settled the area. It was a poignant reminder of the tenacity of those early settlers.
By 7 p.m., we made it back to the trailer, feeling content and grateful for the day’s discoveries.
Wednesday, October 16
When we woke up this morning we were overwhelmed with the smell of cattle urine. It literally made us gag. Later we found several thousand cattle penned up about 5 miles from us and it looks like the wind shifted to carry their stench toward us.
Jack Sisemore RV Museum
The Jack Sisemore RV Museum, tucked away within an RV dealership, was a delightful surprise. The warehouse, filled with a remarkable collection of vintage RVs, motorcycles, and camping equipment, was like stepping into a time capsule. We were amazed at the attention to detail in the restoration of the RVs, many of which looked as though they were ready to hit the road again. The museum allowed visitors to climb inside the vehicles, offering a true sense of what RV travel was like decades ago.
The collection also featured a number of vintage camping accessories, including old-fashioned coolers, lanterns, and gear, which enhanced the experience. One of the highlights was seeing the RV used in the movie RV, starring Robin Williams. We had both seen the film years ago, so it was fun to see the actual vehicle up close..
Vega, TX
We continued west along Route 66, passing through the town of Vega, where we discovered a restored gas station turned visitor center. The lady running the center was passionate and full of energy, proudly telling us about Vega’s history. Her enthusiasm was contagious, and she gave us a stack of postcards and brochures detailing local attractions. The small museum housed historical items from Vega’s past, including an old printing press. The experience of printing our own Route 66 postcards was fun and gave us a unique souvenir from the trip.
Outside the museum, there was a longhorn steer display, perfect for photo opportunities. The town also had Dottie’s Mini Museum, a humble collection of dusty vintage items that a now-deceased curator had preserved. The charm of the place was in its simplicity and the personal connection it had to Vega’s history.
Midpoint Cafe, Adrian, TX
We made our way to Adrian for lunch at the Midpoint Café, which claims to be located halfway between Los Angeles and Chicago. The café had a cozy, nostalgic atmosphere, with Route 66 memorabilia decorating the walls. We enjoyed delicious sandwiches—my BLT was perfectly crispy, and Lisa’s chicken salad sandwich was light and refreshing. The café felt like a welcoming pit stop on our journey, offering both a delicious meal and a sense of history.
Tucumcari
After lunch, we continued our journey westward, passing through Tucumcari, another town steeped in Route 66 nostalgia. The streets were lined with vintage hotels, gas stations, and old motels, many of which had been converted or abandoned over the years. Walking through the town, we felt like we were traveling through a time capsule, experiencing the era when Route 66 was the main artery connecting the East and West. We stopped to take photos, capturing the faded glory of the old buildings and gas stations. I even picked up a Route 66 ball cap at the Teepee Curios store, a perfect memento of our adventure.
Russell’s Truck and Travel Center
On our way back, we stopped at Russell’s Truck and Travel Center, which displayed an impressive collection of vintage items. The museum was free to enter, featuring everything from classic cars to Coca-Cola memorabilia and Tonka toys. The collection was thoughtfully curated and well-lit, making it a pleasant experience for visitors to browse the exhibits.
Malcoms Ice Cream
We rounded out the day by stopping at Malcolm’s Ice Cream for massive banana splits. The shop was the perfect place to relax after a long day on the road, offering large portions of ice cream and a cheerful atmosphere. The combination of cold, creamy ice cream and the joy of being on Route 66 made for a fitting end to another memorable day of our adventure.