Wednesday. June 12
Journey to Cave Country RV Campground
After a leisurely start to the morning, we had the trailer packed up and were ready to go by 10:45 a.m. At the dump station, I spent extra time flushing the black tank because the sensor was reading high. Hopefully, this resolves the issue. Meanwhile, Lisa noticed and picked up a bunch of busted balloons that some kids had left around the water pump. It was hard to believe no parent had stepped in to address the mess.
I made a mistake during takedown, asking Lisa to pull forward before I had the tongue jack fully elevated. Thankfully, it caused no harm, but I reminded myself to be more attentive in the future.
The weather during our drive to Mammoth Cave was fantastic, but the trip wasn’t without challenges. I missed a turn, adding over 30 minutes to the drive. At a lunch stop, Lisa clipped a corner too close in a parking lot, causing the trailer to snag on a divider. Fortunately, she stopped immediately, and we were able to back up and get unstuck without any damage.
One disappointing discovery was that the rivers at Mammoth Cave National Park were too high for canoeing, so all the outfitters had closed. I had been looking forward to a canoe trip, so that was a letdown.
Cave Country RV Campground
The campground was small but exceptionally clean and well-landscaped. Our pull-through site was level, with full hookups, including cable. While the lack of shade and the overall “parking lot” feel weren’t ideal, it served our purpose since we didn’t plan to spend much time there anyway.
Cave City, KY
After setting up camp, we headed to the Mammoth Cave Visitor Center to pick up tickets for our tour the next day and get our National Park passport stamped. Driving through Cave City, we noticed that much of the town seemed rundown, with many businesses either permanently closed or closing early. I had hoped to enjoy some of the local activities, but the options were underwhelming.
We did manage to stop at one of the larger gem stores just before it closed. Along the way, we spotted souvenir shops selling Trump 2020 and Confederate flags, a stark reminder of the political climate in the area.
Chaney’s Dairy Barn
BWith little to do in Cave City, we decided to make the 45-minute drive to Chaney’s Dairy Barn in Bowling Green. It’s a popular local attraction and reputed to serve the best ice cream in Kentucky.
When we arrived, the place was bustling, but the service was quick. Lisa indulged in a waffle cone with Strawberry Cheesecake and Salted Caramel scoops, while I treated myself to a Moo Pie—a warm, freshly baked chocolate chip cookie in a cast iron skillet—topped with two scoops of “Wow Now Brownie Cow” and “Peanut Butter Fudge Swirl” ice cream. The cookie was perfectly crispy on the outside and gooey inside, and the ice cream flavors were incredible. We were so full afterward that we skipped dinner entirely.
Evening
On the way back, we stopped for a $20 deluxe car wash to tackle the swarm of bugs that had plastered themselves to the truck during the drive. The wash did a great job clearing most of them off, leaving the truck looking much better.
Despite the bumps in the day, we ended it on a sweet note with delicious ice cream and a bit of adventure in exploring the area. Tomorrow, we’re looking forward to diving into the wonders of Mammoth Cave National Park.
Thursday, June 13
Mammoth Cave National Park
We left for the Mammoth Cave Visitor Center around 8:30 a.m. The weather was chilly, with highs expected only in the upper 70s—perfect for exploring caves. We had two tours planned: the Historic Tour at 10:00 a.m. and the Domes and Dripstones Tour at 2:15 p.m.
To pass the time before our first tour, we browsed the gift shop and chatted with staff at the information desk about activities to enjoy in the park after our tours. Their recommendations gave us a few ideas for later.
Mammoth Cave – The Historic Tour
The Historic Tour began at the largest natural entrance to Mammoth Cave. From the visitor center, we walked down a scenic trail to the entrance, which immediately showcased the massive scale of the cave.
The tour wound through enormous caverns, narrow passageways, and some historical sections with artifacts and remnants of rotting wooden structures. Our guide shared fascinating stories about the cave’s history, including its discovery by ancient Native Americans, its use during the War of 1812 to extract saltpeter for gunpowder, and its role in early tourism, when enslaved African Americans worked as expert guides.
The pace of the tour was brisk, with lots of stairs and low-hanging rocks. Despite her bad knees, Lisa kept up like a champ, though I bumped my head a few times on the rocks above. While the sheer size of the caverns was impressive, the cave itself felt somewhat barren compared to others we’ve seen. Still, learning about its storied past made the experience worthwhile.
Lunch and Museum
After the first tour, we found a shady spot in the parking lot and had lunch at a grassy picnic area. With some time to spare before our next tour, we explored part of the visitor center museum. The exhibits were detailed and informative, though we only managed to get through about half before it was time to leave for the second tour.
Mammoth Cave – Domes and Dripstones Tour
The Domes and Dripstones Tour began differently. Instead of walking to the cave entrance, we were bused to a concrete bunker built into the side of a hill. The ranger explained that this was an airlock, as it was not a natural entrance.
We entered in small groups, passing through the airlock system into the cave. Inside, we descended a steep 280-step staircase into the depths of the cave. The initial sections resembled the caverns we had seen on the Historic Tour, with large chambers and narrow passageways. However, as we progressed, the highlight of this tour came into view: the dripstones.
The formations were stunning—stalactites and stalagmites, columns, and delicate soda straws that seemed to sparkle in the dim light. The intricate beauty of these formations was mesmerizing, making this tour stand out as the most visually impressive of the day.
Heritage Trail
After the tours, Lisa wanted to stretch her legs on a short hike. We chose the Heritage Trail, a half-mile loop from the visitor center that led past the Mammoth Hotel and out to Sunset Point, which overlooks the Green River Valley.
The trail also passed by the Old Guide Cemetery, where the famous black cave guide, Stephen Bishop, is buried. Bishop was renowned for his knowledge of the cave system and was one of the first guides to map it extensively. Interestingly, despite the name of the cemetery, he is the only guide buried there; the other graves belong to tuberculosis patients who died during an ill-fated experiment to treat the disease with cave air.
White Squirrel Brewery, Bowling Green, KY
Initially, we planned to have dinner at the Train Station Restaurant in nearby Park City, but it was closed for a private event when we arrived. Instead, we headed to Bowling Green to dine at White Squirrel Brewery.
The brewery had a vibrant atmosphere with an open-concept design that extended from the restaurant to a patio through large garage doors. We sampled several of their beers on tap, including Grolsch, Irish, Pale Ale, Hefeweizen, and Brown Nut. For dinner, we shared a plate of Spicy Chicken with Rice Noodles.
The day had been long but packed with adventure, history, and memorable experiences. Tomorrow, we look forward to more exploring and seeing what else this area offers.
Friday, June 14
Wigwam Village #2, Horse Cave, KY
We began the day exploring northward, starting with Wigwam Village Inn #2, just a short drive from our base. This quirky motel, built in 1937, features individual rooms shaped like wigwams, designed as a gimmick to attract travelers. Surprisingly, it’s still operating, with several cars parked beside the teepee-like structures. It was a unique glimpse into roadside Americana from the mid-20th century.
Unknown Confederate Soldier Monument, Horse Cave, KY
Our next stop was the Unknown Confederate Soldier Monument, an unusual 12-foot pile of cemented geodes commemorating a Confederate soldier from the 11th Louisiana Infantry. According to legend, the soldier accidentally discharged his weapon while on a tree-cutting detail, leading to his death. The monument was erected in 1934 to ensure the grave wouldn’t be forgotten.
The monument sits on private property about 50 yards off the road, accessible via a narrow path through evergreen hedges. There was no designated parking, so we pulled off the road nearby. While I ventured through the hedges to see the monument up close, Lisa chose to stay back. It looked odd standing in the middle of nowhere with only a few farmhouses nearby.
Kentucky Stonehedge, Munfordville, KY
We then visited Kentucky Stonehenge, another oddity situated on private property. Initially unsure if visitors were welcome, we spotted a hand-painted “Parking” sign and cautiously parked in the circular driveway away from the owner’s house.
Kentucky Stonehenge isn’t a precise replica of the original Stonehenge in England but rather a rock garden inspired by it. The property also features several other stone arrangements and sculptures. The gardens were surprisingly well-maintained and quite impressive. We enjoyed walking through the various sections, marveling at the effort and creativity that went into this unique landmark.
Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historical Park
Our next destination was Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historical Park, a small but fascinating park dedicated to Lincoln’s early years. The centerpiece is a large neoclassical memorial building atop a hill, accessible via 56 steps, symbolizing Lincoln’s age at the time of his death. Inside, a replica of a one-room cabin provides a glimpse of the modest beginnings of Lincoln’s life.
The visitor center offered a short film and exhibits detailing Lincoln’s childhood and family history.
Abraham Lincoln’s Boyhood Home at Knob Creek
While we were in the visitor center at the Lincoln Birthplace State Historic Site, a ranger encouraged us to visit Knob Creek Farm, located about 12 miles away. The ranger’s description made it sound like a compelling next step in understanding Lincoln’s early life, so we eagerly decided to go.
Knob Creek Farm was where Lincoln lived with his family from around age 2½ to 7 after they were forced to leave his birthplace due to a title dispute over their land. The Lincolns leased the 30-acre farm, which provided fertile soil for growing corn but was far from an easy life. Lincoln would later recall several pivotal experiences from this time, including his first memories of work, nature, and human suffering.
One striking memory he shared as an adult was nearly drowning in Knob Creek as a young boy. While playing near the water, he fell into the swollen creek and was swept away by the current. A neighbor’s son, Austin Gollaher, managed to pull him to safety, an incident that could have drastically altered American history had it ended differently. It was also at Knob Creek that Lincoln first witnessed slaves being taken south to be sold. He saw slave coffles, groups of enslaved people chained together, traveling along the Bardstown–Green River Turnpike, which passed through the area. These early experiences undoubtedly shaped his views on freedom and inequality.
At the farm, we explored a reconstructed 1800s log cabin designed to resemble the type of home the Lincoln family would have lived in. Though not the original Lincoln cabin, the structure gave us a vivid impression of the cramped, humble conditions frontier families endured. The cabin, made from hand-hewn logs and rough-hewn furnishings, was starkly minimal yet practical, reflecting the challenges of life on the frontier.
Nearby, we saw the Lincoln Tavern, a structure built in 1933 as part of a wave of tourism tied to Lincoln’s legacy. While the tavern had no direct connection to the Lincoln family, it served as a commercial attraction for visitors coming to see Knob Creek. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovations during our visit, but its rustic design hinted at the early 20th-century efforts to preserve Lincoln’s story.
From the cabin, we followed a short trail to Knob Creek itself. The creek, once a potentially deadly waterway, had dwindled to a mere trickle during our visit. A sign near the creek warned of flash floods, which could quickly transform the tranquil stream into a raging torrent. This served as a reminder of the untamed nature of the region in Lincoln’s time and the ever-present risks faced by settlers.
One of the most interesting takeaways from our visit was the issue of land title disputes, which profoundly impacted the Lincoln family. In early Kentucky, land ownership was often murky, with conflicting claims arising from poorly defined boundaries and overlapping grants. Much of the land had been awarded to veterans of the Revolutionary War or speculators, leading to widespread confusion and legal battles. The Lincoln family lost their original homestead due to such a dispute, a devastating loss for settlers who relied on their land for survival.
This systemic problem was one reason the Lincolns chose to move to Indiana, where new federal land ordinances provided more standardized surveys and secured title claims. The Public Land Survey System divided the land into a grid of clearly defined plots, making it easier for small farmers like the Lincolns to claim and retain ownership. These reforms not only shaped the Lincoln family’s trajectory but also influenced broader migration patterns across the growing nation.
Standing at Knob Creek, reflecting on the challenges faced by the Lincoln family and other settlers of the time, was both sobering and inspiring. The stories of resilience, hard work, and adaptation offered a deeper appreciation for the formative experiences that shaped one of America’s most iconic leaders.
Maker’s Mark Distillery
By noon, we decided to explore the famed bourbon distilleries in the area. Our first stop was the Maker’s Mark Distillery, a name synonymous with premium bourbon. Surprisingly, the distillery was located far off the beaten path, deep in the countryside, miles away from any major city. Knowing Maker’s Mark’s immense popularity and how readily available it is in bars and liquor stores across the country, we were curious how such a remote operation managed to produce and distribute on such a large scal
The drive to the distillery was an experience in itself. Winding through picturesque country roads, we passed rolling hills, grazing horses, and quaint farms. Eventually, we arrived at a beautifully landscaped property that resembled an upscale ranch rather than an industrial operation. The grounds were immaculately maintained, with vibrant flower beds, manicured lawns, and charming black-and-red buildings that exuded rustic elegance.
Following signs to the Visitor Center, we found ourselves in a large, historic farmhouse that served as the starting point for tours. The building was warm and inviting, with exposed wooden beams and a cozy country aesthetic. At the reception desk, we were pleasantly surprised to learn that it was National Bourbon Day, meaning all tours were complimentary—a fortuitous coincidence!
Our tour began with a guide—a cheerful and enthusiastic college intern—leading us through the distillery’s sprawling complex. We explored multiple buildings, each serving a specific function in the bourbon-making process. We saw where the mash was cooked, the stills where the bourbon was distilled, and the warehouses where barrels were aged to perfection. The sweet aroma of fermenting grains filled the air, and we even got to sample the mash at various stages.
One highlight was watching the labels being printed and learning about the meticulous hand-dipping process that gives each Maker’s Mark bottle its distinctive wax seal. In the packaging area, it was fascinating to see how tradition and craftsmanship blended with modern efficiency.
After the tour of the production facilities, we returned to the farmhouse for a guided tasting session. We were offered six different bourbons to sample, each with its own flavor profile and character. The tastings were expertly curated, helping us appreciate the nuances that make Maker’s Mark unique—from its wheated mash bill to its smooth, full-bodied finish.
The experience didn’t end there. At the gift shop, we had the opportunity to purchase a bottle of Maker’s Mark and dip it in wax ourselves. It was a fun and interactive way to personalize a souvenir from the distillery.
What stood out most to me during the visit was the legacy of Margie Samuels, the co-founder and creative force behind Maker’s Mark. She was responsible for several key elements that have become iconic to the brand: the name “Maker’s Mark,” inspired by the marks of quality made by silversmiths; the unique bottle shape, designed for elegance and distinction; and the red wax seal, a symbol of authenticity and craftsmanship. Her influence extended beyond the product itself—she also played a significant role in designing the distillery grounds, ensuring that the property reflected the same attention to detail and artistry as the bourbon it produced.
Overall, the tour was an exceptional experience. It wasn’t just about learning how bourbon is made; it was about immersing ourselves in the story, heritage, and artistry behind one of Kentucky’s most beloved brands. The picturesque setting, friendly staff, and fascinating history made it a visit we’ll remember for a long time.
Bourbon Heritage Center
After spending a good portion of the day at Maker’s Mark Distillery, we decided to squeeze in one more bourbon stop. With time running short, we headed to Bardstown to visit the Bourbon Heritage Center, operated by Heaven Hill Distillery. Known as the “Bourbon Capital of the World,” Bardstown seemed the perfect place to wrap up our bourbon exploration.
We arrived just in time for the last tour of the day. Unfortunately, we quickly realized this visit would be more limited in scope than Maker’s Mark. The Bourbon Heritage Center was undergoing significant renovations, and its main exhibits were temporarily closed. Additionally, we learned that Heaven Hill’s primary distillery had been destroyed in a devastating fire in 1996, one of the largest disasters in bourbon history. As a result, much of their bourbon production is now contracted out to other distilleries, which explained the absence of the usual distillery operations we had seen earlier.
The tour itself consisted of a short film about the history of bourbon and Heaven Hill’s role in the industry, followed by a guided tasting session. Despite the scaled-down experience, the tasting proved to be the highlight. Our guide, an engaging and knowledgeable host, expertly walked us through the flavors and nuances of each bourbon we tried.
One standout moment was sampling a bourbon priced at an eye-popping $250 per bottle. It was an exceptional pour—rich, complex, and with a velvety smoothness that lingered on the palate. Alongside this rare treat, we tasted six other bourbons, each showcasing a range of flavors from Heaven Hill’s extensive portfolio. The tasting allowed us to appreciate the artistry behind their products and highlighted the differences between Heaven Hill and Maker’s Mark.
The bourbons at Heaven Hill seemed to deliver more pronounced “Kentucky hugs” compared to Maker’s Mark. For the uninitiated, a “Kentucky hug” refers to the warming sensation bourbon provides as it travels down your throat and settles in your chest. It was a fitting end to the day—both literally and figuratively warm.
Although the tour lacked the immersive experience we had at Maker’s Mark, we still enjoyed the tasting and the opportunity to learn more about the resilience of Heaven Hill following their fire. We left with a deeper appreciation for how each distillery’s story, history, and production methods contribute to the diversity of Kentucky bourbon.
Let me know if you’d like to refine or add even more!
Mammy’s Kitchen & Bar, Bardstiwbm KY
After a full day on the bourbon trail, we enjoyed dinner at Mammy’s Kitchen & Bar, a cozy spot with a rustic charm that fit Bardstown’s historic vibe. We shared the chicken fried chicken special with creamy mashed potatoes, rich gravy, and perfectly seasoned green beans—a comforting and delicious meal.
I paired it with a Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale, which had smooth caramel and vanilla notes, while Lisa opted for a refreshing Coors Light. A local guitarist provided live music, creating a laid-back, welcoming atmosphere.
Downtown Bardstown, KY
After dinner, we decided to take a leisurely walk around the historical town. As we strolled, we passed a series of historical markers and house signs proudly proclaiming that many of the buildings were pre-Civil War. The town’s charming architecture captivated us, with well-preserved brick homes, some adorned with intricate ironwork and others featuring classic wooden porches. It was clear that this town was a popular destination for tourists, and it had all the makings of a great vacation spot—quaint streets, cozy cafés, and an unmistakable sense of history. We couldn’t help but notice the numerous banners strung up around town, announcing the Bourbon Festival taking place that weekend. Although it sounded like a fun event, we regrettably knew we’d have to miss it. Even so, we agreed that the town had such a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere that we would love to return and explore more at a later time.
As we made our way to the truck to head home, we heard the lively sounds of a festival coming from a couple of blocks away. Curious, we walked toward the noise and stumbled upon a small festival in full swing. Near the Bourbon Museum, a one-mile race was being held, with the winners proudly standing on bourbon barrels, each cut to different heights, to receive their medals.
The museum was open, so we decided to pop inside. The moment we stepped in, we were transported into the world of bourbon. The museum was filled with rich wood paneling and vintage displays, offering an inviting, rustic atmosphere. There were informative exhibits that detailed the history of bourbon production in the area, from its early beginnings to the modern-day distilleries. One exhibit featured old distillation tools and machinery, while another showcased vintage bottles, some dating back to the 19th century. The centerpiece of the museum was a large, beautifully crafted copper still, which stood as a tribute to the craftsmanship behind the spirit.
After taking in the sights and enjoying the experience, we decided to call it a day and head home.
Saturday, June 15
Cedar Sink Trail, Mammoth Cave National Park
We kicked off our day with a hike on the Cedar Sink Trail in Mammoth Cave National Park. I’d heard it was a must-see, so I was eager to check it out. The trail, which was only a mile long, was well-maintained and easy to follow. As we walked, the trail led us down to a large sinkhole, where we descended some stairs to get a closer view. We were amazed to see part of a river that flowed out of the earth and re-entered it about 100 yards away. The landscape was striking, with unique rock formations and lush greenery. There was also a scenic rock overhang with a well-placed observation platform. Both of us were fascinated by the natural process behind how sinkholes form.
National Corvette Museum, Bowling Green, KY
Next, we headed to Bowling Green, home to the Corvette manufacturing plant and the National Corvette Museum. This non-profit museum celebrates the history and evolution of the iconic Corvette, showcasing various models and even cars previously owned by famous figures like race car drivers and astronauts. One of the most memorable exhibits was dedicated to a sinkhole that swallowed several priceless Corvettes in 2014. A section of the museum now serves as a tribute to the disaster, featuring a glass-covered hole showing just how deep the sinkhole was. The taped outline marked the area where the cars had once been on display. I was particularly intrigued by the lobby, which displayed new Corvettes that had been bought but not yet picked up by their owners. The NCM Experience delivery program allows buyers to pick up their cars at the museum and includes a VIP tour and other perks, with a live webcam even showing the cars in the display area before they are taken home.
1921 Chevron Gas Station
After the museum, we drove into the historic center to see a 1921 Chevron Gas Station that had been repurposed as a public park bathroom. Lisa also used the opportunity to mail out a couple of postcards.
Back to Chaney’s Dairy Barn
For lunch, we returned to Chaney’s Dairy Barn. It was a bit more crowded since the weather had warmed up and it was a Saturday, but we managed to grab a spot. We decided to try some of their food this time. I ordered a Pimento (Dairy-aire) sandwich, and Lisa went for a Turkey sandwich. The wait was a bit long—over 45 minutes—but both sandwiches were worth the wait, delicious and satisfying.
Octagon House
Next, we stopped at the Octagon House. Initially, I just planned to snap a quick picture, but the house’s unique architecture drew us in, so we decided to spend the $5 admission to tour the inside. We were given a brief history of the house and free reign to explore at our leisure. The house was filled with a collection of eclectic Civil War-era artifacts gathered by its owner, Billy D. Byrd, though many items seemed unrelated to the house itself. Built in 1859 by Andrew Jackson Caldwell, a Confederate supporter, the home served as a safe haven for soldiers during the Civil War, with hidden rooms and tunnels for them to use. The house had a fascinating history, including stories of ghost sightings, with one of the legends claiming that a seven-year-old girl who tragically died in the kitchen had been photographed as a ghost. We enjoyed chatting with the owners, who shared the story of how they acquired the house and their paranormal experiences. The outdoor area featured several historic structures, including a summer kitchen and a slave cabin that termites had unfortunately destroyed.
South Union Shaker’s Village
Our next stop was the South Union Shakers Village, one of the most southern and western of the Shaker communities. The village, once a thriving communal settlement, had been sold in 1922, but several of its buildings were later restored and turned into a museum. We arrived just before closing, which gave us just enough time to watch a brief, low-resolution film about the history of the Shakers and the village. Afterward, we explored the Centre House, a beautifully restored building that housed the single men and women of the community. Each of the rooms had displays about Shaker life and beliefs. We learned that the Shakers considered God as both male and female and that they were credited with inventing the flat broom. After the museum closed, we drove around the area, checking out the foundations of other homes that had been lost to time or demolition.
Father’s of Mercy
While driving around, we spotted the Father’s of Mercy Catholic Church and monastery, which had a beautifully ornate church. It didn’t appear to be open to the public, so we admired the architecture from the street.
Chaney’s Dairy Barn (Again!)
Since we were nearby, we couldn’t resist a second visit to Chaney’s Dairy Barn, this time for ice cream. We both opted for waffle cones with two scoops. The ice cream was as excellent as before, although I thought the waffle cone could have been a bit crunchier.
Cave City
Finally, we made our way back to Cave City to grab our dirty laundry and head to a laundromat. The camp’s laundry facilities were limited, so we decided to go to one in town. Lisa also used the opportunity to pick up some supplies from a nearby Dollar Store. The laundromat we chose wasn’t the nicest, with old machines and a worn-down atmosphere, but it did the job. We got our laundry done in about an hour, and we were ready for the next week’s adventures.