Monday, June 10
The Journey to Fort Massac State Park
The bartender from the previous night had recommended a diner up the road, famous for its breakfasts. However, when we checked Google the next morning, we discovered it was closed on Mondays. Drats! So, we were left with no choice but to grab coffee at a gas station.
I directed us to a gas station that, unfortunately, wasn’t very RV-friendly. Lisa had to drive around the back of the building and wait for the only lane we could use. After a truck pulling a trailer finally moved, Lisa was able to maneuver the truck up to the pump and run inside to grab our coffee. The whole situation was a bit stressful, but in hindsight, we had more space than we initially thought.
The drive to Fort Massac was a bit windy, so Lisa kept a firm grip on the steering wheel and didn’t drink much of her coffee. Southern Illinois was flat and fairly uneventful, making for a rather dull ride.
Distance 206 miles, 18.9 gallons used, 9.8 mpg
Fort Massac State Park
When we arrived at the State Park, we made a quick stop at the visitor center for a bathroom break. The staff there informed us that we could head straight to our site. We took a few minutes to check out the small museum they had on display, which was a nice touch.
Our site was fairly level, located on the outer edge of a loop near dense woods. The campsites were generously spaced apart, giving us a lot of privacy. I hadn’t realized when I booked the site that it only had electricity and no water hookups. Thankfully, our site was conveniently located within 60 feet of a spigot, so I was able to hook up a hose and fill our freshwater tank. While I was at it, I discovered that our black water tank was about two-thirds full. That extra weight probably contributed to some of the handling issues Lisa had during the drive. Given that we would be traveling a lot and could use the public restrooms in the park, we both agreed to wait until we left to dump the tank.
Metropolis, IL
After showers and a simple lunch of tuna fish, crackers, and an apple, we set off for Metropolis. This small town has embraced its connection to Superman, proudly calling itself the hometown of the iconic hero. At the heart of town stands a massive 15-foot Superman statue in front of city hall, designed to attract tourists. We arrived just after their annual Superman festival, which had taken place the previous day, and the staff was busy taking down festival tents and decorations. I really wished we could have experienced the event.
In the center of town, we found a museum and store packed with Superman memorabilia. Outside, there were several photo opportunities, including face-cut-outs and a replica of the Daily Tribune car, which made for fun snapshots. After a quick walk through the store, we decided to spend the $5 to check out the museum located in the back. It was small and cramped, with dust in the air from some ongoing construction upstairs. Despite its size, it was an impressive collection of photos, costumes, collectibles, and other memorabilia, showcasing the enduring influence of Superman over the decades. When we exited, we spoke briefly with the daughter of the collector, who told us that the museum only displayed about a sixth of the collection. The more valuable pieces, some with six-figure price tags, were kept securely elsewhere in a safe.
Before leaving, we took a few more photos near the towering Superman statue, then made our way to see the Lois Lane statue just a couple of blocks away.
Kincaid Mounds State Historic Site
Our next stop was the Kincaid Mounds, the site of a 1,000-year-old Mississippian-era village. Here, we found remnants of large man-made dirt mounds, some rising as high as 30 feet, where important structures or religious buildings once stood.
The road leading to the site was gravel and dirt, which caught us off guard. As we neared, we spotted the mounds across a field about 300 yards away, marked only by a sign and a turnoff. To my surprise, there was nothing else—no hiking trails or informational signs as I had expected. We noticed tire tracks in the field but no defined road or trail, and the ground looked muddy. There was no fence around the mounds, and no signs indicated that we couldn’t approach them, so we decided to walk across the field for a closer look.
That turned out to be a mistake. We were wearing only tennis shoes and shorts, and the field was filled with scratchy grass and sharp burrs that quickly stuck to our shoes and socks. We made it about halfway before we decided to turn back.
Once we reached our truck, I figured we’d drive a little further down the road. To our surprise, we found a road that took us up the east side of the mounds, where we discovered a viewing platform overlooking the mounds—only about 50 yards away. There, we also noticed signs indicating it was illegal to walk in the field where we had just been.
Lock and Dam 52, Brookport, IL
Next, we headed back to Brookport to visit Lock and Dam 52 on the Ohio River. As we drove down the dirt road toward the site, we couldn’t help but feel unnerved by how high the river levels were. When we got closer, we were disappointed to find a sign blocking the way, stating that the Corps of Engineers was in the process of demolishing the lock. We later learned that this old lock and dam had been decommissioned due to its deteriorating condition and had been replaced by a newer lock and dam farther downstream. I had been really hoping we’d catch a ship passing through the lock.
The First Lambert’s, Sikeston, MO
After visiting the Lamberts in Springfield, we thought it would be fun to check out the original location in Sikeston, MO. It was just over an hour from Fort Massac, and the route promised a scenic drive along the Ohio River. Unfortunately, flooding had closed several roads along our route, which tacked on nearly an extra hour to our trip. Despite the detour, it was still a beautiful ride.
When we finally arrived at Lamberts, it looked just like the one in Springfield, both inside and out. Since it was a weekday, we didn’t have to wait in a long line to get seated. The giant rolls, massive portions, and endless pass-around sides were just as we remembered, and we both ate so much that our bellies ached.
Cairo, IL
We decided to stop by a brewery in Paducah before heading home for the evening. The route took us across the Cairo Ohio River Bridge at Cairo, where we crossed a narrow, 5,863.7-foot, two-lane bridge, which I later learned was built in 1937. It was the longest and narrowest bridge I had ever driven on. After crossing, we were able to see the Ohio River up close along the road for several miles on both sides before we turned east, leaving the river behind as we made our way toward Paducah.
Paducah, KY
We stopped at Dry Ground Brewery, which was housed in a 1939 building that had once been a Coca-Cola bottling plant. The site was chosen because it was the first “dry ground” to emerge after the 1937 flood. Today, the building is shared by several businesses, including a Mellow Mushroom pizzeria. The brewery had a charming outdoor area, and for $12, we enjoyed a flight of six beers while lounging in Adirondack chairs. It was a cool but comfortable evening, perfect for relaxing and savoring the local brews.
Evening
Around 9 PM, we returned to the camper, settled in, and watched an episode of Designated Survivor on the TV before winding down for the night.
Tuesday, June 11
Fort Massac State Park
After breakfast, we made our way to the Fort Massac visitor center, where we spoke with the receptionist about the sights and trails in the park. She explained that most of the trails were impassable due to recent flooding but suggested we consider a hike up to the Garden of the Gods, about an hour away in the Shawnee National Forest.
Before heading out, we decided to spend some time exploring the museum and the fort. The museum was small but informative, offering a brief history of the fort along with a short film we watched. The fort’s history, though, wasn’t particularly captivating—it was built and dismantled multiple times throughout the 1700s and 1800s. Located at the confluence of the Tennessee and Ohio rivers, the fort was strategically placed halfway between St. Louis, Missouri, to the northwest, and Nashville, Tennessee, to the southeast. While notable figures like Andrew Jackson and Lewis & Clark visited during its operational years, the fort didn’t play a significant role in U.S. history.
The site does hold the distinction of being home to Illinois’ first state park, however. Outside, we found a small replica of the fort as it would have stood in 1802, as well as a statue of George Rogers Clark, a distinguished Revolutionary War military hero who fought several key battles in the area. After taking it all in, we were ready to head to the Garden of the Gods.
Golconda Chocolate Factory
After returning to the trailer so Lisa could take a shower and we could pack up a few things to take with us, we hopped into the truck and made our way to the Garden of the Gods. Along the way, we unexpectedly stumbled upon the Golconda Chocolate Factory and decided to stop in for a visit. We had seen a sign for it on the highway earlier and were excited to check it out, though we were surprised by how small the place was.
The owner graciously gave us a tour, showing us the kitchen where she molded and hand-painted the chocolates using colored chocolate. She took her time walking us through each station, explaining the intricate thought processes involved in crafting and shipping her handmade creations. She shared that while she bought most of the molds, many of them were no longer available for purchase, which made them even more special.
Although we would have loved to buy several of her charming treats, we were heading to the park, and we didn’t want them to melt. Instead, we opted for a small bag of caramel popcorn drizzled with chocolate, priced at $3.85, which we figured would be a perfect snack for the road.
Golconda, IL
A little farther down the road, we arrived in the town of Golconda. I wanted to check out the river, so we decided to take a small detour and explore the town. We later learned that this was the site of a ferry crossing on the Ohio River where 13,000 Cherokee Indians passed through during the Trail of Tears. Today, Golconda is a small, decaying town with a population of around 700 people.
The river view was actually located atop an earthen levee that separated and protected the town from the Ohio River. To reach the top, there was a steep gravel road, which allowed us to drive along the levee toward the now-closed Lock and Dam 51. This was the sister to the Lock and Dam 52 we had attempted to visit the day before. As we drove along the dike, we passed a trailer park that looked like it could hold about half a dozen trailers. It seemed like it could have been a quaint place to camp, though getting there would have been a bit of a challenge.
When we finally reached the old Lock and Dam 51, we were disappointed to find that we could no longer see the dam in the river. It was either destroyed or covered by the high water levels. However, there was a charming overlook where we stopped to take some pictures. We also drove around the old Lock and Dam houses, which appeared to have been converted into rental properties. Our last stop was at a historic house turned restaurant called the Riverview Mansion Hotel. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovations, so we couldn’t experience its dining or stay.
Garden of the Gods
We finally arrived at the Garden of the Gods and decided to enjoy a light lunch of tuna and crackers, perched on a flat rock near the trailhead. The sun was warm but not too hot, and there was a gentle breeze that made the spot feel perfect for a quick rest before our hike. The scent of pine and wildflowers filled the air, and we could hear the rustling of leaves from the trees around us. After lunch, we set off on the trail, eager to explore.
The trail was short but beautiful, winding through the iconic sandstone rock formations that had been shaped by millions of years of natural forces. Some of the rocks were so massive and weathered that they seemed to defy gravity, leaning at precarious angles, while others had unique shapes that reminded us of animals or people. The higher we climbed, the more spectacular the views became, with sweeping vistas of the Shawnee National Forest stretching out beneath a clear blue sky.
Climbing around on the rocks was exciting, though my fear of heights kept me from venturing too close to the sharp drop-offs. I enjoyed exploring the safer, flatter areas, where I could admire the view without worrying about losing my balance. Lisa, despite her own phobia of falling, was much more daring and crawled out onto several of the formations, carefully inching her way out to spots that took my breath away. It was impressive to see her overcome her fear, and I admired her courage.
We weren’t the only ones there—several families were also out enjoying the day. Their teens seemed to have an endless amount of energy, climbing over rocks and getting far too close to the edges for my peace of mind. I couldn’t help but feel nervous each time one of them perched at the edge of a cliff, their backs to the drop as they posed for photos or joked with each other.
This was the first time we wore our new hydration hiking packs and hiking sticks, and both turned out to be incredibly helpful. The hydration packs were a lifesaver in the warm weather, keeping us refreshed and hydrated as we hiked. The hiking sticks provided extra stability, especially on the uneven sections of the trail where the ground was rocky and loose. They helped us keep our balance and made the hike feel much easier and more comfortable.
It was a fun and active adventure, and we both enjoyed the serenity of the park as much as the challenge of the terrain. The Garden of the Gods was even more stunning than we had anticipated, and we were grateful for the opportunity to experience it up close.
Purple Toad Winery
We then made our way back to Paducah, eager for our next stop at the Purple Toad Winery. As we entered, we were greeted by a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with the lobby lined with shelves full of trophies and medals showcasing the winery’s many awards from prestigious wine competitions. It was clear this place took pride in their craft.
The staff was friendly and eager to share their passion for wine, offering us the opportunity to sample as many of their award-winning wines as we wanted, free of charge. Excited to taste the variety, we each tried at least half a dozen different wines.
Paducah Downtown and Floodwalls
Paducah, located at the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers, has a rich and diverse history that is reflected in both its murals and its architecture. Originally settled in 1827, the town quickly became a bustling river port, its location strategically positioned to become a hub for river traffic. The river played a crucial role in Paducah’s early economy, as steamboats regularly transported goods, including tobacco, grain, and cotton, to and from the town.
During the Civil War, Paducah’s location made it a key site for both the Union and Confederate forces. The Union established a stronghold here, using the town as a supply base. The town’s strategic importance during the war is immortalized in some of the murals, including one that depicts the role of Paducah’s riverfront in wartime logistics. The town saw skirmishes and battles, but its location also helped it avoid major destruction, unlike some other southern cities.
In the 20th century, Paducah’s economy shifted towards industry, but its river heritage remained an essential part of its identity. The city became known for its work in textiles, railroads, and later, in the development of nuclear technology with the establishment of a uranium enrichment facility.
Paducah also has a rich artistic tradition. It was designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art in 2013, thanks to its long-standing commitment to the arts. The murals along the floodwalls are a testament to this cultural legacy, blending the town’s history with its vibrant present. Many of the murals commemorate the stories of local artisans and cultural figures, adding layers of depth to Paducah’s artistic heritage.
The downtown area, with its preserved historic buildings, also speaks to the town’s past. Many of the structures date back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when Paducah experienced a period of growth and prosperity. Walking through the district, you can see brick buildings with detailed facades, old storefronts, and the occasional preserved theater, each one contributing to the town’s historical charm.
Wacinton Statue
We made our way to the Wacinton statue next before refueling and returning to camp. The statue, located at the corner of a park near some worn tennis courts, was somewhat understated and not prominently displayed.
Wacinton is one of Peter “Wolf” Toth’s “Whispering Giants,” a series of large wood carvings Toth, a Hungarian native who fled Communist oppression, created and donated across the U.S. and beyond to honor Native American heritage. These impressive statues range from 20 to 40 feet tall and weigh thousands of pounds. Using only a five-pound hammer and chisel—without power tools—Toth carved each statue based on the facial features of the local Native American tribes they represented. His work was done as a labor of love, with no payment beyond lodging, meals, and the donation of the trees used for carving.
Even today, Toth travels the country to restore his Whispering Giants and carve new ones. He had to repair this particular statue in 2016 after a storm damaged its headdress.
Evening
When we returned to the trailer, we settled in to watch some TV while enjoying Lisa’s leftovers from Lamberts (I, of course, had none left, LOL). For dessert, we snacked on the caramel popcorn with chocolate drizzle we’d picked up at the chocolate factory earlier that day.