Tuesday, 7 October

The Drive

It was raining when we got up in Potato Creek State Park, so we felt fortunate that we had taken care of some of the packing the evening before. We checked the weather and decided to finish packing around 10:30, where we saw a small break in the weather. It was still lightly raining when we finished packing. The rain increased as we set out on the IN-23 south, then connected to US-31 south to skirt around South Bend. From there, we picked up US-24 west, a straight stretch that carried us through a mix of small towns, open fields, and scattered woodlots. The scenery was classic northern Indiana farmland—broad expanses of corn and soybeans, dotted with silos and farmhouses. Near Logansport, we shifted onto US-421 south, then merged with I-65 south for the faster run toward Lafayette. Prophetstown State Park was a short distance off the highway, though we did have to make several turns down country roads to reach it. There were no attendants on duty at the park or campground entrance. We drove several miles through the park to get to the campground, which was surprisingly mostly full considering it was early in the week. The sites were well marked with engraved site numbers in boulders next to each entrance.

Prophetstown State Park

20251007 Prophetstown State Park scaled

Prophetstown State Park is Indiana’s newest state park (opened 2004) located where the Tippecanoe River meets the Wabash, near Battle Ground, northeast of Lafayette. The campground offers about 110 campsites in total, split evenly between 55 full-hookup sites and 55 electric-only sites that provide power but no water or sewer connections. All campsites are ADA accessible, making them suitable for all visitors. Modern amenities are available throughout the campground, including restrooms with showers, vault toilets, drinking water, water fill stations, a dump station, fire rings, and picnic tables at each site. The campground is divided into two main loops: Spruce Loop (full-hookup sites) and Savanna Loop (electric-only sites). The surroundings include prairie restoration areas, wetlands (fens), floodplain forest, and open woodlands. Trails, both paved and dirt, wind through these varied habitats. It had an aquatic center but it had closed on Labor Day. They also had a working farm in the park that served as a 1920s-style living-history farm that recreates rural Midwestern life from a century ago. Visitors can explore the restored farmhouse, barns, and gardens, see heritage-breed animals like cattle, pigs, sheep, and chickens, and watch demonstrations of traditional farm chores such as butter churning, gardening, and canning.

Our Site

20251007 Prophetstown State Park Site scaled

We had Site #209 in the Savannah Electric loop, a back-in site with a maximum RV or trailer length of about 55 feet. It offered electric hookups along with the basics—a picnic table and fire ring. The pad was covered in fine gravel bordered by timbers. It was level that made the setup easy. On either side were some trees and bushes, which provided us a little privacy. We were a short walk from the restrooms, though we rarely use them.

The Farm

20251007 The Farm scaled

After setting up, we decided to go to a local diner in the nearby town of Battle Ground. On our way out of the park, we stopped at “The Farm,” which was located near the entrance of the park. The Farm at Prophetstown is a living-history farmstead designed to recreate how a typical Indiana family farm looked and operated in the 1920s. It’s a working farm that features heritage-breed livestock, heirloom crops, farm-to-table food, and demonstrations of traditional homesteading and blacksmithing. The property leases land within Prophetstown State Park and offers educational programs that complement the park’s natural history focus. Visitors will find heritage animals such as chickens, Hereford cattle, Berkshire hogs, donkeys, and draft horses. The farm grows its own feed in cooperation with local farmers and follows sustainable agricultural practices, offering inspiration for those interested in small-scale or “back-to-the-land” living. The site includes a replica 1920s Sears & Roebuck farmhouse and an original tenant house, as well as a red barn, corn crib, milk house, chicken coops, blacksmith shop, machine shed, and windmill—all arranged to reflect the rhythm of daily life on a rural Indiana farm a century ago.

The farm is typically open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and we arrived just as the staff were finishing up for the day and putting the animals away for the night. We took a quick walk through the farmhouse and around the grounds, getting a glimpse of the setting before closing time, and left with every intention of returning for a longer visit.

TC’s Restaurant & Tavern

20251007 TCs Restaurant Tavern scaled

We passed the Tippecanoe Memorial which we planned to see later, and stopped at TC’s Restaurant & Tavern. This cozy, local favorite blends classic American fare with a casual “tavern” atmosphere. It featured a family-friendly dining room plus a separate 21+ bar area. We sat in the dining room and was served by a loud but friendly waitress that added to the local vibe. I ordered a tenderloin sandwich that was three-times too big for the bug and Lisa got some beef butter noodles. The portions were large, so we both had leftovers to bring back with us.

Wednesday, 8 October

Crawford’s Rotary Jail Museum

20251008 Crawfords Rotary Jail Museum scaled

We left around 9 am and headed south through West Lafayette, home of Purdue University, toward Crawfordsville to visit the Rotary Jail Museum. This museum was located in one of the most unusual and fascinating historical sites in the state. Built in 1882, the museum featured the first rotating jail in the United States and is now the only one still operational (though no longer in use as a jail).

We arrived just as the museum opened, and the building’s Halloween decorations added an extra touch of eeriness to what we were about to see. Entering through the front section of the Rotary Jail—the former sheriff’s residence—felt more like stepping into a comfortable Victorian home than a jail. The brick façade featured arched windows and intricate trim, hinted at a domestic past that contrasted sharply with the grim structure behind it.

A friendly docent greeted us at the entrance and led us through the parlor, dining room, and kitchen, all furnished with period pieces and seamlessly integrated exhibits of old law enforcement gear. She explained how the sheriff’s family lived here, separated from the prisoners by only a single secure doorway. It was easy to imagine the strange overlap of home life and incarceration—where a family meal might be accompanied by the distant clang of iron bars. The docent also spoke about the sheriff’s wife, known as the matron, who was responsible for cooking meals for the inmates. The docent mentioned that elections often hinged on their wives cooking. In fact, some repeat offenders often worked themselves into jail when a particular meal was being served.

Through the heavy interior door, we stepped into the jail itself—the heart of this unusual structure. The rotary cell block, built in 1882, was a circular arrangement of wedge-shaped cells mounted on a massive iron turntable. The entire cell ring could be rotated by hand crank so that only one door aligned with the corridor at a time, a system designed to reduce escape risk and guard requirements. This was the first jail of its kind ever built, and though several others followed across the country, this one in Crawfordsville remains the only operational rotary jail in existence today. Because prisoners would often get injured when the cells rotated, the jail was later modified to be used as a stationary jail until 1973.

Our guide demonstrated the mechanism by turning the crank, slowly rotating the ring of cells like slices of a giant pie. The jail rose three stories high—the lower two levels housing the rotating cells and separate sections for women and maximum-security prisoners, and the upper level serving as the infirmary. She described the primitive conditions inside: how meals were passed through narrow openings, and how the toilets functioned. But she also pointed out that this jail was only used for short-term incarceration, often just 24-48 hours, and that security was not rigid. In fact, she stated that some old residents recall prisoners dangling money out the window for neighborhood children to buy them contraband like cigarettes or alcohol.

After the tour, we were free to wander around the cells and the lower level of the house at our leisure. The visit offered us a fascinating, yet eerie glimpse into a bygone era of American justice—equal parts ingenious and horrifying.

Covered Bridges of Parke County

20251009 Covered Bridges of Parke County scaled

We then continued south into Parke County where we spent the rest of the day exploring some of Parke County’s historic covered bridges. Parke County, Indiana, proudly calls itself the “Covered Bridge Capital of the World” for good reason. In the late 1800s, the county had as many as 53 covered bridges, and today 31 still stand—more than any other county in the nation. The landscape, cut by Sugar Creek, Big and Little Raccoon Creeks, and countless smaller streams, required frequent crossings, making the area ideal for bridge building. Abundant local hardwoods such as oak and poplar provided the necessary materials, while skilled craftsmen like J.J. Daniels and J.A. Britton (and his son Eugene) perfected the Burr Arch truss design that gave the bridges both strength and grace. Unlike many regions that replaced their wooden spans with steel and concrete, Parke County’s residents took pride in preserving these historic structures.

Deer Mill Bridge (1878, 84 ft, Sugar Mill Creek) – This bridge was near the old Deer Mill site. Though closed to vehicles, we walked across its weathered wooden deck and admired the peaceful scenery—the sandstone bluffs rising steeply from the creek below and the quiet sound of flowing water echoing through the ravine.

Cox Ford Bridge (1913, 176 ft, Sugar Creek) – The next bridge was located in Turkey Run State Park and the first bridge we got to drive across. It was exciting to hear the creaking timbers below the truck as we crossed this historic bridge. We were able to park and easily walk down to the creek which gave us a great view of the underside of the bridge.

Jackson Bridge (1861, 207 ft, Sugar Creek)– We were able to drive this bridge, which is one of the oldest in the county. It once carried heavy mill traffic but now serves mostly sightseers.

Rush Creek Bridge (1904, 65 ft, Rush Creek) – We then drove across this small bridge nestled in the countryside.

Marshall Bridge (1917, 82 ft, Rush Creek) – Back on gravel roads, this bridge was in a quiet forest setting, adding to its charm.

We then rode into Rockville, often called the “Covered Bridge Capital of the World.” It serves as the county seat of Parke County and the heart of its covered bridge heritage. Nearly every road leading out of Rockville eventually crosses one of the county’s historic spans, making it the natural hub for exploring them.

When we drove through the city, it was busy preparing for the upcoming Annual Covered Bridge Festival. The streets were covered with tents, and vendors were busy preparing their wares. We drove down to the Visitor Center, where we saw some prisoners helping the staff with some tasks. We used the restrooms at the visitor center and then spoke with the staff for recommendations on which bridges to see next. They steered us away from bridges that would be busy with festival traffic, though they were popular, and steered us west toward quieter locations. They did state that we should visit the Bridgeton Bridge, though it would be busy. We loaded ourselves back in the truck and decided to drive through the local McDonald’s for lunch before continuing our journey.

Billie Creek Bridge (1895, 62 ft, Williams Creek) – Before leaving the city, we drove across this bridge that sits beside the Billie Creek Village living-history museum. Two other covered bridges also sit near the village but can only be crossed by foot.

Crooks Bridge (1856, 132 ft, Little Raccoon Creek) – As we continued south, we drove over this bridge, which is one of the oldest surviving bridges and among the longest.

McAllister Bridge (1914, 126 ft, Little Raccoon Creek) – The approach road wound downhill to the bridge, adding a sense of drama to the crossing.

Neet Bridge (1904, 126 ft, Little Raccoon Creek) – This was a well-preserved bridge near the main road, making it easy to access and a favorite among photographers, but since we could not drive across it, we only stopped briefly before moving on.

Bridgeton Bridge (2006 reconstruction of 1868 original, 245 ft, Big Raccoon Creek) – This is the county’s most famous bridge, beautifully rebuilt after a devastating fire. It stands beside the historic Bridgeton Mill, and the beautiful man-made waterfall and millpond made it very picturesque. We parked at the small riverside park near the millpond, and walked across the bridge, taking in the view of the mill and the steady flow of water beneath us. On the far side, vendors were busy setting up tents for the upcoming Covered Bridge Festival. Before heading back, we couldn’t resist treating ourselves to some ice cream at the Snickerdoodle Cobbler before returning to the truck.

Roseville Bridge (1910, 281 ft, Big Raccoon Creek) – We left Bridgeton and drove down a long gravel road through farmlands where farmers were busy harvesting their corn to the first of three bridges in this area. The first bridge is the longest single-span covered bridge in Indiana. Unfortunately, the wood panels on the outside of the bridge looked rougher than most of the other bridges we had driven over.

Harry Evans Bridge (1908, 83 ft, Rock Run Creek)– As we continued down the gravel road and countryside, we crossed this small bridge.

Zacke Cox Bridge (1908, 72 ft, Rock Run Creek) – Continuing down the gravel road, we came to a short bridge that stood out from the rest. Unlike most of the county’s bridges, which are painted red with white portals, this one was painted entirely white—simple, bright, and striking against the green countryside.

Phillips Bridge (1909, 126 ft, Little Raccoon Creek) – Continuing down gravel roads, we drove across this bridge that was also painted white.

Sim Smith Bridge (1883, 84 ft, Leatherwood Creek) – The bridge was on rough, narrow country roads between more crop fields. We even had to pull over into the grass during the drive to let a large combine through.

West Union Bridge (1876, 315 ft, Sugar Creek) – This long bridge was closed to vehicles.

Marshall Bridge – We recrossed this bridge that we had crossed earlier in the day.

Mill Creek Bridge (1898, 103 ft, Mill Creek) – Continuing through the woods along a winding gravel road, we came to this bridge, often called the Tow Path Bridge. Its name comes from the old Wabash and Erie Canal towpath that once ran through this area. Long after the canal boats and their mule teams disappeared, the former towpath remained in use as a rural road—carrying travelers much as it once carried canal traffic more than a century ago.

Bowsher Ford Bridge (1915, 72 ft, Mill Creek) – The last bridge on our tour.

After crossing the last bridge, we headed back to the camper, which was over an hour north.

Thursday, 9 October

The temperature dropped below 40 degrees for the first time this trip, and it was very cold. We had to pull out an extra blanket for the bed, and run the heater when we got up in the morning. Today we decided to explore local attractions and we started our day by running into Lafayette and having breakfast at Bob Evans. Before we left, we got a show by three squirrels outside our kitchen window.

Red Crown Mini-Museum

20251009 Red Crown Mini Museum scaled

We then filled our gas tank at a local Sam’s Club and then proceeded downtown Lafayette, where we passed the stately courthouse on our way to see the Red Crown Mini-Museum. This restored 1920s Standard Oil (Red Crown) gas station was transformed into a small automotive museum and historic landmark. Located beside the Tippecanoe County Library, the station was originally built in 1927–28 by the Standard Oil Company of Indiana, featuring glazed brick walls, a red-tiled roof, and later, a second garage bay added in the 1930s. It operated as a working gas station until around 1979, when it was purchased by the library and eventually restored. In 1991, it reopened as the Red Crown Mini-Museum, displaying vintage service-station memorabilia, classic gas pumps, signage, and early automotive artifacts.

Unfortunately, the museum we visited today offered little to see. The exterior of the building was beautifully restored, but the main office area was locked, and when we peered through the dusty windows, only a handful of old gas station artifacts were visible. There were no vintage gas pumps. One of the garage bays was closed, revealing only an old car lift through the glass. The second bay, however, was open and now houses a 24-hour lending library—a modern kiosk resembling a large ATM, stocked with books, audiobooks, and movies. It was an interesting repurposing of the space, but the nostalgic charm of the old station felt mostly lost.

Fort Ouiatenon

We then drove out to see Fort Ouiatenon, a historic site along the Wabash River near West Lafayette where the first European settlement was established by the French in 1717. Today, a 1930s replica blockhouse sits near the location in a large park. Unfortunately, we were unable to enter the park because they were setting up for the annual Feast of the Hunters’ Moon, when costumed reenactors, vendors, and musicians recreate the sights and sounds of 18th-century life along the Wabash.

Fallen Soldier Monument

We then drove up to the Indiana Veterans Home to see the 20-foot Fallen Soldier Monument. This bronze monument is an inverted rifle planted into a pair of combat boots, with a helmet perched atop the rifle and dog tags hanging from it. The Fallen Soldier’s Cross—also known as the battlefield cross or fallen comrade memorial—is a powerful military symbol honoring soldiers who have died in combat.This tribute originated during the American Civil War and became widely recognized in World War I, when soldiers used the fallen comrade’s gear as a makeshift grave marker on the battlefield. Over time, the Fallen Soldier’s Cross evolved into a lasting icon of remembrance, often displayed at memorial services, military cemeteries, and veterans’ monuments—such as the one at the Indiana Veterans’ Home—to honor those who gave their lives in defense of their country.

Unfortunately, we drove through the campus several times but were unable to find the monument. We were impressed with the facility that spans more than 250 wooded acres and serves as a full-service residential and medical care facility dedicated to Indiana’s veterans and their spouses. Established in 1896 to care for Civil War veterans, it has grown into a modern community offering skilled nursing, short-term rehabilitation, memory care, and independent or assisted living options. The beautifully landscaped campus once functioned as a self-sufficient community with its own hospital, bakery, power plant, and fire department, and several of the original buildings remain.

Cairo Skywatch Tower

20251009 Cairo Skywatch Tower scaled

We then started back toward the small community of Cairo to see the Cairo Skywatch Tower. This 40-foot wooden observation tower was built in 1952 as part of Operation Skywatch, a Cold War civil defense program organized by the U.S. Air Force. At a time before radar coverage extended nationwide, community volunteers worked around the clock at outposts like this one, scanning the skies for enemy aircraft and reporting sightings to command centers. Officially designated Delta Lima 3 Green, the Cairo tower was active until the Ground Observation Corps disbanded in 1959. Although it fell into disuse afterward, it was preserved as a historic landmark and added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2002.

Today, the barely standing tower sits on a quiet rural road alongside a historical marker and a monument. The monument features bronze/statue figures of a man, woman, and child gazing toward the sky—symbolizing the vigilance and dedication of civilian volunteers who scanned for enemy aircraft during the Cold War. Though weathered, this site was an evocative reminder of a tense era when everyday citizens played a vital role in watching over America’s skies.

Tippecanoe Battlefield Museum

20251009 Tippecanoe Battlefield and Museum scaled

We then drove over to the Tippecanoe Battlefield Park in Battle Ground, Indiana. The 96-acre park centers around an 85-foot marble obelisk, erected in 1908 to honor those who fought in the Battle of Tippecanoe. The Tippecanoe Battlefield Museum, operated by the Tippecanoe County Historical Association, contained exhibits featuring artifacts, uniforms, weapons, and maps, along with a detailed fiber-optic display tracing troop movements. Panels and displays told the story of Governor William Henry Harrison, Tenskwatawa (the Prophet), and Tecumseh, whose dream of a unified Native confederacy clashed with American expansion. It also showed how the battle helped Harrison become the ninth U.S. President, using the unforgettable campaign slogan “Tippecanoe and Tyler Too.”

The battle itself took place on November 7, 1811, when Harrison led roughly 1,000 men north from Vincennes to confront the Prophet’s settlement near the Tippecanoe River. In the early morning darkness, Tenskwatawa stood on a rise near the encampment, chanting and calling upon spiritual powers to protect his warriors. He assured them that his magic would turn the Americans’ bullets into harmless grains of sand and render the enemy powerless. Inspired by his words, the Native warriors launched a sudden attack on Harrison’s troops, catching them off guard and igniting fierce, close-quarters fighting. Despite the initial chaos, the Americans held their line through the night, and by dawn the Native forces withdrew. The next day, Harrison’s men burned Prophetstown to the ground, crushing the spiritual and political heart of Tecumseh’s alliance.

Though the battle was not a sweeping military victory, it marked a turning point. The Prophet’s influence waned, Tecumseh’s confederacy fractured, and tensions between Native nations and American settlers deepened—foreshadowing the coming War of 1812. As we walked the battlefield, full of hardwoods, it was hard to imagine the chaos that occurred the morning of the attack. The museum, monument, and landscape together preserve not only the history but also the haunting sense of belief, bravery, and loss that still lingers on this historic ground.

Prophet’s Rock

20251009 Prophets Rock scaled

We then drove to Prophet’s Rock Park, the site of the rock formation where Tenskwatawa, known as “The Prophet,” is said to have stood during the Battle of Tippecanoe on November 7, 1811. From this elevated position, he reportedly sang and chanted to rally his warriors and call upon spiritual forces for protection, believing the soldiers’ bullets would turn to dust. Tradition holds that it was from this very spot that he gave the signal to begin the attack. In 1929, the General de Lafayette Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution erected a monument at the site to honor the event and its historical significance.

Bike Ride – Trail of Scarecrows and The Farm

20251009 Trail of Scarecrows 1 scaled

We returned to the camper and decided to take a bicycle ride along the park’s 3.5-mile bike trail, which had been transformed for the annual Trail of Scarecrows event. The trail was lined with creative and often humorous scarecrow displays crafted by local community groups as a fundraiser for the park’s Interpretive Services Fund. Since the campground sat near the middle of the trail, we first headed toward the front gate, admiring the variety of exhibits—some clever, some whimsical, all clearly made with imagination and care.

20251009 The Farm scaled

Near the entrance, we stopped to explore The Farm at Prophetstown, a working 1920s-style homestead within the park. Our first stop was the Blacksmith Shop, where we chatted with the blacksmith as he packed up his tools to head to the Feast Festival. From there, we rode over to the Sears and Roebuck farmhouse, furnished just as it would have been a century ago. We continued through the barnyard, getting close to ducks, chickens, turkeys, donkeys, horses, cows, and pigs. The setting offered a fun glimpse into Indiana’s agricultural past and the rhythm of rural farm life.

20251009 Circle of Stones scaled

After leaving the farm, we retraced our route to the campground and continued along the opposite stretch of trail to see the remaining scarecrow displays. At the far end of the path, we reached the Circle of Stones, a solemn and beautiful memorial honoring the Native American tribes who once lived in this region. Dedicated on November 4, 2016, the monument features 14 upright stones, each engraved with the name of a different tribe—including the Miami, Potawatomi, Shawnee, Wea, Kickapoo, Delaware, Ottawa, Ojibwe, Wyandot, Winnebago, Fox, Sac, Creek, and Menominee—and a 15th stone dedicated to the many unidentified tribes whose histories have been lost or forgotten. The circle invites quiet reflection, symbolizing unity and respect for the Native peoples whose heritage continues to shape this land.

Afterwards, we rode back to the camper, enjoyed a simple dinner of leftovers, and settled in for the evening.

Friday, 10 October

It was another cold morning with temperatures a couple of degrees colder than the night before. Since we couldn’t check in at our next location until 5 pm, we decided to take our time leaving. After breakfast, we drove into Lafayette to get some groceries at a local Walmart. When we returned, we slowly packed and eventually headed out after dumping around 1 pm.

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