Saturday, 4 October
The Drive
We left Yankee Springs Recreation Area in southwest Michigan for the drive to Potato Creek State Park in northern Indiana, a trip of about 105 miles that takes a little over 2 hours. From the park, we followed M-179 west to connect with US-131 south, a smooth four-lane highway that carried us past Plainwell and Kalamazoo. The scenery here mixed rolling farmland with patches of hardwood forest, dotted with barns and grain silos along the way.
Near Three Rivers, we turned west onto US-12, a quieter two-lane road lined with more farmland, small lakes, and the occasional town. Crossing into Indiana, we stayed on US-12 for a short stretch before connecting south to IN-23, which led us toward South Bend. The landscape flattened a bit, with wide farm fields and woodlots giving the drive a steady rural rhythm.
The final leg took us west on IN-4, where the terrain grew more wooded and hints of marshland appeared. Before long, signs for Potato Creek State Park guided us into the entrance road, winding through forested ridges until Worster Lake came into view. After just over two hours on the road, we traded Michigan’s kettle lakes and hills for Indiana’s wetlands, prairies, and mature woodlands.
Potato Creek State Park
Potato Creek State Park, located near North Liberty in northern Indiana, is one of the state’s most popular parks, known for its variety of landscapes and year-round recreation. The park covers more than 3,800 acres and centers around Worster Lake, a 327-acre lake created in the 1970s that now serves as the heart of the park’s activities.
The environment is diverse—rolling woodlands, restored prairies, old farm fields in natural succession, and broad wetlands that attract an abundance of wildlife. Deer and wild turkey are common, and the wetlands draw countless bird species, making the park a favorite for birdwatchers. Seasonal wildflowers brighten the trails in spring and summer, while fall colors transform the hardwoods into a vibrant canopy.
Recreation is a big draw here. Over 9 miles of hiking trails wind through the woods, prairies, and marshes, ranging from easy loops to more rugged paths. There are also bike trails, horse trails, and winter options like cross-country skiing and tubing when snow is on the ground. Worster Lake provides boating (electric motors only), fishing for bass, crappie, and bluegill, and a large swimming beach with a picnic area.
The park’s modern campground includes 287 sites with electric hookups, plus youth tent areas, group sites, and family cabins. Amenities include restrooms, showers, a camp store, and playgrounds, making it very family-friendly. There are also wheelchair-accessible trails and facilities, ensuring broader access.
Potato Creek lies approximately 12 miles southwest of South Bend, so city conveniences and attractions, including the University of Notre Dame, are within a short driving distance.
Our site
We stayed at Site #25 in Loop A, a spacious and level spot with electrical hookups that made setup easy. Trees provided ample shade while still allowing in some afternoon sun, and the extra space between sites gave us a nice sense of privacy. Restrooms, showers, and a water station were just a short walk away, and although the playground and central areas were nearby, our site remained peaceful and relaxing.
Casino for Dinner
We decided to spend the evening at Four Winds Casino South Bend, owned and operated by the Pokagon Band of Potawatomi Indians, to enjoy some live music and dinner. Opened in 2023, the casino is one of the tallest and most striking buildings in South Bend. We arrived at the Kankakee Grill and discovered that it was an upscale bar and restaurant. We were given a table near the bandstand and ordered a couple of beers. Lisa ordered a Three Floyds Zombie Dust, a hoppy pale ale from Muncie, while I chose a Great Lakes Oktoberfest—but after sampling each, we decided to trade. The duo performing that night, Doug and Jim from Small Town: A John Mellencamp Experience, played well and sounded great, but probably because of the bar’s atmosphere, they assumed the role of being heard, and not seen, and did not engage with the audience. Menu prices were steep, so we opted for a small BLT pizza, which turned out to be excellent. We stayed for about an hour, enjoying the food and the music before heading back to the campground.
By the time we returned, darkness had settled in, and we had a bit of trouble finding the path to our camper. Eventually, we recognized our loop and made it back safely.
Sunday, 5 October
Bike Ride
It was another beautiful day, with morning temperatures in the upper 60s to low 70s—perfect for a bike ride on the park’s trails. We started by pedaling through the various loops of the large campground, admiring the variety of campers and setups, before following a wide, unpaved path about a mile down to the beach area. The beach itself was closed for the season and temporarily claimed by a large flock of migrating geese. From there, we joined the 3.3-mile paved bike trail, a smooth, scenic route that wound gracefully through stretches of dense woodland and occasional clearings. The ride was peaceful, shaded, and full of birdsong and the occasional squirrel, with the scent of autumn leaves lingering in the air.
After reaching the far end of the trail and passing several picnic areas, we looped back toward the beach and then continued on to the Nature Center, which was bustling with visitors. Inside the small center were exhibits featuring local wildlife, including aquariums with turtles and snakes, along with displays about the park’s natural history. Upstairs was a children’s play area designed to encourage exploration. I spent a few minutes chatting with the ranger about an Indiana State Parks program that lets kids—and even adults—earn collectible park pins through exploration and volunteer activities. Outside, a small display of rusted farm implements offered a nod to the area’s agricultural past.
By the time we returned to the camper, our odometers showed we had ridden just under 12 miles—a relaxing, scenic ride that perfectly captured the charm and tranquility of Potato Creek State Park.
National Studebaker Museum and The History Museum
After cleaning up, we took off to visit the Studebaker National Museum and The History Museum in South Bend. When we arrived, beautiful Studebaker cars filled the parking lot but we were able to find a spot in a side lot. The museums are co-located, but we are treated as two separate museums so we had to buy separate tickets for each.
We started with the Studebake National Museum. This three-story museum celebrated the company that began in 1852 in South Bend, when brothers Henry and Clement Studebaker opened a small blacksmith and wagon shop. Their craftsmanship and reliability quickly earned them a reputation, and the business grew into the world’s largest producer of horse-drawn wagons by the late 1800s. Studebaker wagons were used by farmers, pioneers, and even the U.S. military, including during the Civil War and the westward expansion.
As transportation evolved, Studebaker successfully transitioned from wagons to automobiles. They built their first electric car in 1902 and their first gasoline-powered model in 1904, becoming one of the few 19th-century carriage makers to survive the industry shift to motor vehicles. Throughout the early and mid-20th century, Studebaker automobiles were known for their quality, durability, and forward-thinking design. The company produced many iconic models, such as the Champion, Commander, Golden Hawk, and Avanti, often noted for their sleek, aerodynamic styling.
At its peak, Studebaker employed thousands of South Bend residents and dominated the city’s industrial landscape. Its factories, offices, and proving grounds covered vast sections of the south side of town. However, despite innovation and a loyal customer base, the company struggled financially in the post-war years. After a 1954 merger with Packard Motor Company failed to stabilize operations, Studebaker ended automobile production in South Bend in December 1963, though limited production continued in Hamilton, Ontario, until 1966.
The exhibits began with Studebaker’s humble beginnings as a wagon and carriage maker. A beautifully restored Conestoga wagon stood near the entrance, its sheer size reminding us of the days when these wagons carried settlers westward. Moving through the galleries, we followed the company’s evolution into motor vehicles, from early horseless carriages to the sleek, streamlined cars of the mid-20th century. Each model seemed to tell a story—not only of innovation and style, but of optimism and craftsmanship from a bygone era.
One of the most striking displays was the collection of presidential carriages, including the black carriage that Abraham Lincoln rode in on the night of his assassination. Standing beside it felt surreal, as though history had suddenly taken a breath in the quiet air.
Another highlight was the famous “Muppet Car,” a 1951 Studebaker Commander used in The Muppet Movie (1979). Driven by Kermit and Fozzie in the film, the car features the classic bullet-nose design and was heavily modified for filming, including hidden controls so a driver could operate it from the trunk while puppeteers performed inside. Restored to its colorful on-screen appearance, it now appears in the exhibit A Bear’s Natural Habitat: The Return of Fozzie’s Studebaker, celebrating its unique blend of Hollywood history and South Bend’s automotive heritage.
We wandered upstairs to see the post-war Studebakers, including concept cars and gleaming chrome models that looked ready to roar to life.
Downstairs, the military and prototype vehicles were equally fascinating, along with rows of vintage cars stored on mechanical lifts in viewable storage—a behind-the-scenes peek into how the museum preserves its vast collection.
We then moved to the other side of the building, connected by a grand lobby, where we explored The History Museum. While the Studebaker side tells the story of industry and innovation, The History Museum delves into the people, culture, and everyday life of South Bend and northern Indiana.
The exhibits traced the region’s evolution from its earliest Native American inhabitants and French fur traders to the rise of South Bend as a major manufacturing center. Artifacts, photographs, and personal stories brought the city’s past vividly to life—highlighting the experiences of immigrant families who settled in the area.
Another section focused on James Oliver and his revolutionary plow business, which became one of South Bend’s other great industrial legacies. In the mid-1800s, Oliver perfected the chilled cast-iron plow, a major advancement that made farming the tough prairie soils of the Midwest far easier. His company, the Oliver Chilled Plow Works, grew into one of the largest plow manufacturers in the world, employing thousands of local residents and helping to put South Bend on the map as a center of agricultural innovation. The exhibits included photographs of the vast factory complex, examples of the plows themselves, and stories about the company’s workers and the impact of Oliver’s invention on American farming. We decided to forego the opportunity to tour of The Oliver Mansion, also known as Copshaholm. This grand 38-room Romanesque Revival home was built in 1895–1896 of Indiana fieldstone with a red tile roof and remains fully furnished with the family’s original belongings. The house featured early modern luxuries such as electric lighting and indoor plumbing, and its elegant rooms, gardens, and carriage house reflect the wealth and craftsmanship of South Bend’s industrial era.
Additional displays in the museum explored women’s history, wartime contributions, and the development of local neighborhoods and architecture, offering a well-rounded picture of South Bend’s growth and resilience. One especially engaging room featured a collection of historic household objects, each carefully labeled with its name and purpose. As we looked over the collection, we couldn’t help but smile—recognizing several items we had once used ourselves, which made us feel a bit nostalgic, and maybe just a little older.
We then explored a special exhibit titled “Rockne: Life & Legacy” that honored legendary Notre Dame football coach Knute Rockne. The exhibit showcased more than 60 artifacts and photographs on loan from the Notre Dame Archives, the College Football Hall of Fame, and private collectors. Highlights include Rockne’s personal items, coaching tools, and memorabilia that trace his rise from player to one of college football’s most influential coaches, celebrating both his impact on the sport and his enduring legacy in South Bend.
Together, The History Museum and the Studebaker National Museum provided an interesting look of South Bend’s story.
Notre Dame
We then drove to Notre Dame to see the Basilica of the Sacred Heart and the Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes. Notre Dame’s campus is a blend of sacred spaces, Gothic architecture, leafy quads, and iconic landmarks. It spans about 1,250 acres with nearly 190 buildings. When we arrived at the campus, we had to stop at a guard shack to receive a visitor pass, and then we proceeded to a parking place designated for Grotto visitors. Remnants of the football game activities were everywhere, mostly in the form of hundreds or porta-potties.
We first walked over to the Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes modeled after the famous Lourdes Grotto in France, though on a smaller scale—about one-seventh the size of the original. Built in 1896 from massive local boulders, some weighing more than two tons, it was created as a quiet space for prayer and reflection. The grotto is set into a hillside, its stone walls forming a natural-looking cave with a statue of the Virgin Mary nestled in a niche above. In front of it, rows of candles flickered in the soft light as students, visitors, and families paused to pray or sit in silence.
We then climbed the hill to the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, its golden spire gleaming above the trees. A sign inviting visitors to a service in the Crypt Church following the previous day’s football game caught our attention, so we decided to explore that chapel first. Located directly beneath the basilica, this lower sanctuary serves as the parish church for Sacred Heart Parish.
As we descended the steps, we were first greeted by Meštrović’s Pietà, a 1947 sculpture that unlike Michelangelo’s famous Renaissance version, was more austere and emotional—Mary’s face is solemn and powerful rather than delicate, and the composition emphasizes human suffering and divine compassion.
At the bottom of the stairs, the Crypt Church unfolded as a simple yet reverent space—a quiet sanctuary where weekday Masses, confessions, and silent prayer take place. Its unadorned beauty and subdued lighting created a sense of intimacy and peace. Here, the word crypt shed any hint of eeriness and instead evoked its sacred meaning: a hidden chapel beneath the great basilica, anchoring the spiritual heart of Notre Dame.
When we left the Crypt Church, we stepped through a side door and entered one of the basilica’s wings. A Spanish Mass was in progress, so we decided to stay and watch and slipped into a back row. As we sat listening to the soft cadence of the prayers and hymns, our eyes wandered upward to the tall, graceful columns that soared toward ribbed vaults high above, guiding our gaze to a heavenly canopy of stars and angels painted across a deep blue ceiling. Sunlight streamed through the magnificent stained-glass windows, scattering jewel-toned light—ruby, sapphire, emerald, and gold—across the marble floors, the carved wood pews, and the worshippers around us.
Our view of the basilica was limited, and we could see little more than the sanctuary platform where the priest led Mass. A high altar stood as a masterpiece of white marble and gold, its carved columns and delicate tracery glowing beneath the vaulted ceiling. Behind it rose an ornate reredos filled with statues and gilded arches that drew the eye upward. At the center stood the tabernacle, a tall, golden, urn-like structure shaped like a miniature cathedral. Its intricate spires, angels, and engraved gates symbolized the “New Jerusalem,” and within it the consecrated Eucharist was kept—the most sacred part of the basilica.
Wanting to get a better view, we exited the side door and came back into the basilica through the back door. As we stepped through the great doors and into the Basilica and settled into the back row, we were immediately struck by the soaring verticality of the space. Here we could see all the tall, graceful columns drawing our eyes upward to the blue canopy of stars and angels painted on ribbed vaults. Surrounding us were 44 large stained-glass windows spanning 222 scenes, making it one of the largest collections of 19th-century French-style stained glass outside France. The afternoon light filtered through these magnificent stained-glass windows and casted jewel-tones of red, blue, green, and gold across stone floors, walls, and wooden pews. Along the nave walls, the murals depict an array of saints, martyrs, and apostles, each framed by elaborate architectural motifs and gold-leaf accents. The figures stand in dignified poses, their faces rendered with warmth and devotion, while vibrant backgrounds of deep reds, blues, and greens give the impression of illuminated manuscripts brought to life.
When the mass ended, we were allowed to walk behind the great altar to the rear of the church, where we saw more alcoves containing murals, paintings, monuments, and some small chapels. One small alcove contained elaborate reliquaries displaying the bones and relics of saints representing an unbroken chain of faith stretching back through centuries of devotion.
The basilica was impressive and a breathtaking encounter with art, architecture, history, and human devotion, and we left with an appreciation of this magnificent visual language of hope, beauty, and transcendence.
Shiojiri Niwa Japanese Garden
We then drove east of South Bend to Mishawaka to visit the Shiojiri Niwa Japanese Garden. This small but beautifully designed space was created to honor the sister-city relationship between Mishawaka, Indiana, and Shiojiri, Japan. Covering about 1.3 acres, the garden reflects the traditional Japanese “strolling garden” style, meant to be explored slowly along winding paths that reveal new views at each turn. More than 2,000 boulders were used in its landscaping, and the design avoids straight lines to encourage reflection and tranquility. We admired several symbolic bridges—including an arched bridge representing life’s challenges, a zigzag bridge said to ward off evil spirits, and a straight gravel “bridge” symbolizing water—as well as stone snow lanterns, a teahouse pavilion, and graceful plantings such as cherry trees. Near the entrance was he bronze monument in Shiojiri Niwa is a sculpture of four children—two American, two Japanese—seated on square blocks, located near the garden’s entrance. The artist designed it to represent the beginning of friendship and cultural exchange between Mishawaka, Indiana, and Shiojiri, Japan. This friendship traces to the 1960s, when schoolchildren in Mishawaka and Shiojiri started exchanging letters and artwork as part of a cultural exchange.
Evil Czech Brewery
We then drove up to the Evil Czech Brewery for dinner.
Along the way, we stopped at a unique urban art installation that featured a red MINI Cooper is affixed to the east side of the 101 CO3 building — effectively “stuck” to the wall.
The brewery was well decorated for Halloween, both inside and out. We got a flight of five beers: Old Prague (Czech Light Beer), GG Patton (Czech Pilsner), Jesús (Mexican Lager), Corndance Lager (American Premium Lager), and a Jack the One Eye (Dubbel). All the beers were good, but we enjoyed the complex taste of the Dubbel the most.
For dinner, we split a Cubano, a Cuban-style sandwich that was sloppily put together, but tasted great.
Dari Fair
Before heading home, we decided to stop for some ice cream and pulled into Dari Fair in Mishawaka, a classic family-owned soft-serve stand along Lincolnway East. The place exuded timeless small-town charm, with a walk-up window, picnic tables, and a lively crowd of families gathered around enjoying their treats. Known as the “Home of the Turtle Cone,” it proudly advertised over a hundred flavors, though the choices were really the familiar trio of chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry soft serve dressed up with a variety of toppings. Lisa ordered a caramel sundae—simple vanilla soft serve draped in caramel—while I opted for the famous Turtle Cone. It was a tall swirl of creamy vanilla dipped in rich chocolate coating, then topped with caramel drizzle, chopped pecans, and more chocolate for that classic “turtle” flavor. Unfortunately, the cone was served in a cup, and when I lifted it out, the soft ice cream inside had already melted into a sweet puddle at the bottom, soon joined by the crumbling remains of the coating.
After finishing our ice cream, the sun had already slipped below the horizon and the last traces of twilight were fading from the sky. We made our way back toward the camper, the drive taking about forty minutes.
Monday, 6 October
Today we decided to explore east. We left around 10 am and headed toward Elkhart County known as Amish Country.
Hall of Heroes Superhero Museum
e made our first stop in Elkhart to visit the Hall of Heroes Superhero Museum, a nonprofit attraction devoted to more than eighty years of superhero history spanning comics, film, toys, and animation. It’s one of the few museums in the world dedicated exclusively to the superhero genre.
We arrived right as it opened at 11 a.m. and were greeted by a friendly docent who collected our $10 admission and gave a short overview of the museum’s history and layout. Inside, the exhibits were neatly organized—Marvel Comics on one side and DC Comics on the other—each arranged by era. At the center stood an enormous file cabinet containing more than 70,000 comic books. Glass display cases showcased over 10,000 toys and collectibles, while the walls were filled with original artwork and animation cels.
Among the highlights were Adam West’s original Batman costume from the 1960s TV series, Chris Evans’ Captain America shield, Ghost Rider’s motorcycle from the 2007 film, and a Lone Ranger costume worn by Clayton Moore. The museum also featured rare Golden Age comics such as Captain America #1 (1941) and early Wonder Woman issues, along with a “Hollywood Heroes” section filled with movie props and memorabilia.
One corner featured several vintage pinball machines—among the few interactive exhibits visitors could actually play. We spent about an hour exploring the displays, taking in the nostalgia of it all, and ended our visit by posing for a photo with a life-sized Hulk statue.
Pumpkinvine Nature Trail
When we left the Superhero Museum, we drove State Road 4, which ran parallel to the MapleHeart Bike Trail that connects Elkhart and Goshen, Indiana. The trail passes through mostly suburban neighborhoods and light industrial areas and was not scenic.
When we arrived in Goshen, we stopped at Abshire Park, one of the main trailheads for the Pumpkinvine Nature Trail. This scenic rail-trail stretches about 16 to 18 miles, linking the communities of Goshen, Middlebury, and Shipshewana along a former railroad corridor. The path was paved and mostly flat, winding gracefully through a patchwork of wooded corridors, open farmland, and Amish countryside. With temperatures in the mid-80s and mostly sunny skies, the shaded “tree tunnels” provided a welcome relief from the heat after occasional stretches of open trail.
The trail was pleasantly active but never crowded—we passed several other cyclists, including the occasional Amish rider. Along the way, we saw farmers harvesting their fields, farm clusters with cows and horses, and even a large chicken barn that, to our surprise, wasn’t as odorous as others we’ve encountered. The posted speed limit was 15 mph, though we rode at a leisurely 10 mph for most of the route. We stopped at the few interpretive signs and selfie stations that dotted the route. The path was often lined with fallen leaves giving it the perfect fall feel, but we did not see much color in the trees. We were disappointed to find that local ice cream favorites like Mooey’s and Dips on the Vine had closed permanently. We crossed the 160-foot wooden trestle bridge over the Little Elkhart River into Middlebury and took a short break at the Krider World’s Fair Garden, a peaceful park originally designed for the 1933 Chicago World’s Fair. We then stopped at The Creamery which was just a short distance up the path. This small complex had several small eateries and snack shops, and we enjoyed a refreshing pumpkin spice iced coffee and some warm pretzel bites.
After enjoying our snack, we headed back along the same path, which was just as beautiful the second time, with the late-afternoon light filtering through the trees and glinting off the fields. By the time we returned to Abshire Park, our smartwatches showed we had covered just over 22 miles—a perfect fall day’s ride through one of Indiana’s most charming countryside trails.
Evening
We packed up our bicycles and headed back to the camper, stopping at a Taco Bell in Mishawaka to grab dinner to go. Back at the campsite, we settled in to eat and unwind after the long ride. Since we were leaving the next morning and heavy rain was in the forecast, we decided to pack up as much as we could outside and bring in the slide early. Once things were buttoned up, we turned our attention to watching Sunday Night Football, though it took some effort. Unfortunately, none of the local antenna stations carried the Chiefs–Ravens game, so we were forced to rely on poor cell service to get our TV connected to the internet through our phone’s hotspot. Eventually, we managed to stream it—grainy picture and all. Though the signal kept dropping, sometimes at important moments. we still managed to enjoy most of the game. Unfortunately, our Chiefs failed to win in the end.
Tuesday, 7 October
The rain came as expected around 6:30. We watched the weather and started packing around 10:30 during a break in the weather. We were able to get everything packed, make a trip to the dump station, and begin our trip to the next location before it began raining hard.