Monday, 29 September
The Drive
Leaving Hersey, we drove about 120 miles east to Bay City State Recreational Area, a little over two hours on the road. Our route followed M-10 through a pleasant stretch of rolling countryside dotted with forests, small lakes, and farmland before joining I-75 for a short distance. We then continued north on M-13 toward the park. As we neared the bay, the terrain flattened and opened into broad marshes and woodlands, leading us into Bay City State Recreational Area along the beautiful shoreline of Saginaw Bay.
Bay City State Recreation Area
Bay City State Recreation Area, formerly known as Bay City State Park, spans over 2,300 acres on the shores of Saginaw Bay. Its centerpiece is Tobico Marsh, one of the largest remaining freshwater coastal wetlands on the Great Lakes, where boardwalks, trails, and observation towers let visitors experience the rich habitats of cattail marshes, wet meadows, and oak savannahs. The park was established in 1923 during Michigan’s early push to preserve natural areas. Over the decades, it became a haven for migratory birds, anglers, and families seeking both education and recreation.
Campground
When we arrived, the staff at the entrance station greeted us warmly and explained that a Michigan Recreation Passport was required for entry. I decided to purchase the annual pass—it just made more sense for the number of parks we’ve been visiting. Before heading to our reserved site, we looped back through the campground to the dump station so we could top off the fresh water and flush the black tanks. About thirty minutes later, we pulled into Site #27 and began setting up.
The campground had 189 sites, most offering 20/30-amp electrical hookups and a handful equipped for 50-amp service. Each site includes a picnic table and fire ring, and many are shaded beneath tall hardwoods that lend a cool, private feeling even with nearly 200 sites. The curving loops and tree-lined lanes give the campground a natural, park-like layout rather than a crowded grid.
As we walked around afterward, we noticed that many of the campers had gone all out with Halloween decorations—giant inflatables, glowing skeletons, and cobweb-covered displays that would rival any neighborhood block. We learned that the park hosts special Halloween weekends in late September and early October, and judging by the creativity and enthusiasm on display, it’s clearly a favorite tradition among returning campers.
Our Site
We stayed at Site #27, a spacious spot along the campground loop with generous tree cover. The shade kept it cooler and more private than many of the open sites, and the level ground made setting up the trailer simple. The site offered 20/30-amp electrical service along with the basics—a picnic table and fire ring—giving us both comfort and convenience. Just a short walk away were the restrooms and showers, and it was an easy stroll from our loop to the day-use area and the sandy beach on Saginaw Bay.
Our site was spacious but came with challenges—it had no paved pad, the ground heavily sloped and was very bumpy, and the grass was patchy with large sandy bare spots and holes, likely from kids playing there. The electrical box was set back almost 100 feet from the road. The uneven ground made it difficult to decide how to position the camper, but after some maneuvering, we finally managed to find a spot that left us level side to side, gave us partial shade, and was within reach of the electrical box without an extension.
Frankenmuth Brewery
After we finished setting up the camper, we checked for nearby breweries, only to find that all the local ones were closed on Mondays. So we decided to make the 23-mile, 40-minute drive south to Frankenmuth Brewery in Frankenmuth, Michigan.
Frankenmuth greeted us with its storybook Bavarian charm, where timbered buildings and colorful flowers lined the streets, blending Old World tradition with lively tourism. Founded in 1845 by German immigrants from Franconia, the town still proudly reflects its heritage. We pulled into the small parking lot next to the brewery and headed inside.
The brewery is Michigan’s oldest, dating back to 1862. It had a warm, inviting feel with exposed brick walls, tall windows, and a long bar lined with taps offering everything from German lagers and wheat beers to hoppy IPAs, stouts, and seasonal brews. We chose a table out on the back patio, overlooking the Cass River and the covered bridge stood in the distance. Across the water, we could see Heritage Park, where bicyclists coasted along the trails and the green lawn stretched to the river’s edge.
We ordered a flight—Dunkel, Helles, Ale, and Oktoberfest—each one distinct, from malty and smooth to crisp and refreshing. To go with it, we split a cod dinner of three golden fillets with fries and coleslaw. As we ate, tour boats drifted past, including the Bavarian Belle paddle boat packed with waving tourists.
Walk Through Frankenmuth
After dinner, we set out on foot to explore downtown on our way to the covered bridge. The sidewalks were bright with flowers and plants. We enjoyed the Bavarian-style buildings with their painted facades and exposed timbers. We stopped at the Cheese Haus for a photo with the oversized mouse holding a wedge of cheese, then continued past the two legendary restaurants—Zehnder’s of Frankenmuth and the Bavarian Inn. Nearby, the Bavarian Inn’s Glockenspiel Tower stood ready for its next show, its carved figures waiting to spring into motion. Lisa lingered by nearly every flowerbed with her camera, not wanting to miss a single shot.
Soon, the Holz-Brücke covered bridge stretched before us, its massive wooden beams framed by fiery maples on either bank of the Cass River. We crossed slowly, listening to the timbers creak beneath our steps and watching autumn’s colors ripple in the water below. On our way back, a horse-drawn carriage clattered across, adding to the scene’s old-world charm.
Back at the truck, we decided to drive over the covered bridge to explore the far side, where the Bavarian Inn Lodge, Convention Center, and Waterpark anchor a sprawling riverside complex, along with shops and paths by the water. After a short drive, we crossed back over and began the drive to the campground. Twilight had fallen, and we enjoyed seeing the evening light over the farmfields. We saw several fields being harvested even as the sun had disappeared.
By the time we reached the campground, darkness had settled, and we were greeted with glowing Halloween decorations lighting up the rows of campers. It gave the whole place a festive atmosphere as we settled in for the night, happy with our day’s adventure.
Tuesday, 30 September
Bicycle Ride
After breakfast, we set out on our bikes to explore Bay City State Recreational Area. We began with a leisurely ride through the campground looking at all the Halloween decorations being set up at each camp site. It was obvious based on the number of decorations in some sites that this was a passionate event for this campground.
We then rode down to the beach, where the wide sandy shoreline opened onto Saginaw Bay, the lake stretching toward the horizon.
From there, we pedaled along the paved paths and wooden boardwalks that weave through Tobico Marsh, a mix of cattails, wet meadows, and shady woods. We stopped at the observation towers rising above the marsh, and I climbed up, though the trees had grown tall enough to block most of the distant views. Even so, the marsh itself was alive with activity—flocks of waterfowl gliding across the water, red-winged blackbirds calling from the reeds, and the occasional rustle of squirrels and chipmunks darting across our path. Overall, we had an enjoyable two-hour ride and travelled over nine and a half miles.
Japanese Cultural Center, Tea House, and Gardens
After cleaning up from our bicycle ride, we drove to Saginaw to visit the Japanese Cultural Center, Tea House, and Gardens. The grounds turned out to be smaller than we expected, and some areas were under repair, with workers rebuilding a bridge, and the stream that flowed through the garden was temporarily blocked. Even so, we enjoyed strolling down a winding path to the shore of the nearby lake and through the carefully placed trees, rock gardens, and ornamental lanterns. At the center of the garden stands the Saginaw Awa An, an authentic Japanese tea house built in the 1980s as a symbol of friendship with Tokushima, Japan, and regarded as one of the most authentic tea houses outside Japan. We chose not to tour the interior, which required a $5 fee, and instead continued with our day’s explorations.
Marshall M. Fredericks Sculpture Museum
We drove over to the Marshall M. Fredericks Sculpture Museum, located on the campus of Saginaw Valley State University. The museum is dedicated to the life’s work of Marshall Fredericks, a celebrated sculptor renowned for his monumental public art, fountains, and expressive bronze figures that grace plazas and civic spaces across the country. Inside, a friendly docent greeted us and offered an engaging introduction to Fredericks’ career and creative philosophy before outlining what we’d find in the galleries ahead.
The main gallery was filled with nearly 200 plaster models, each a study in form and emotion. The most commanding piece was the 28-foot Christ the Redeemer sculpture, an enormous white figure that stretched almost to the ceiling and radiated a quiet sense of reverence. Around it were models for many of Fredericks’ famous commissions—fountains, memorials, and whimsical animal figures—offering a fascinating look at his versatility as an artist. The docent then led us into another room filled with molds, tools, and personal studio artifacts, showing how his works progressed from clay sketches to full-scale monuments in metal and stone.
After exploring the interior, we stepped outside into the museum’s sculpture garden. Spread across the manicured lawn and shaded by trees, dozens of Fredericks’ bronze and aluminum works were displayed in natural light. The open-air setting let us appreciate what the finished work would look like. Playful figures like Leaping Gazelle and Boy and Bear stood alongside more contemplative pieces such as Freedom of the Human Spirit and Spirit of Detroit. A small pond and flower beds added a tranquil backdrop.
Shine Bright Saginaw
As we drove toward our next destination, we came upon the Shine Bright Saginaw project—a massive mural painted by Spanish artist Okuda San Miguel on the towering grain silos along Lyon Street. Covering an astounding 65,000 to 70,000 square feet and rising up to 150 feet, it ranks among the largest murals in the United States. Titled The Evolution of Language, the design bursts with Okuda’s signature geometric patterns and bold colors, symbolizing freedom, diversity, and universal communication. What was once a stark industrial landmark has been transformed into a vibrant work of public art, injecting new life and energy into the riverfront. We stopped at the YMCA across the Saginaw River to snap a few photos, then captured more pictures as we crossed the bridge, the mural’s kaleidoscope of color dominating the skyline.
Battery Park
We drove up to Battery Park, Bay City’s oldest park, whose name comes from the Civil War–era “battery” of cannons once displayed there. In the early 1900s, the park featured four impressive pieces—including a mortar from Fort Sumter and a naval cannon from the USS Hartford—arranged in quadrants. Those artifacts were eventually reclaimed for metal during World War II and replaced by Civil War replicas.
Among its memorials, the Gold Star Families Monument stood out. Dedicated in 2017, it honors the families of servicemen and women who gave their lives in service to the United States. The black-granite panels are etched with imagery chosen by the community, each one reflecting the themes of Homeland, Family, Patriots, and Sacrifice. Together, they create a solemn and meaningful tribute within this historic park.
Madonna Mural
A couple blocks away, we stopped to see the “Birthplace of Madonna” mural painted on the side of the City Market building. Created by muralist Jules Muck, it was done in just a few hours but makes a bold impression. The portrait captures Madonna in her early years, her expression fierce and confident, framed in vivid colors that pop against the brick wall. Standing in front of it, we could feel the city’s pride in its famous hometown connection.
Vietnam Memorial
We then drove over to the Saginaw Riverfront to see “Project Dustoff” in Bay City’s Veterans Memorial Park. The memorial features a Vietnam-era UH-1H “Huey” helicopter mounted high on a pole, frozen in mid-flight as if still carrying out its lifesaving missions. Beneath it stands a granite memorial with plaques and inscriptions honoring the “Dustoff” crews—those daring pilots and medics who risked their lives flying into combat zones to evacuate the wounded during the Vietnam War.
Oracle Brewery
We then searched for a nearby brewery and chose Oracle Brewery in Saginaw based on its reviews. When we arrived, it was smaller than anticipated with only a few tables. We sat up at the bar, and I ordered a Chocolate Stout and Lisa got a Dunkle. During our conversation with the bartender, we learned about their “Pints for Positive Change” program, where proceeds from one of their beers benefit local charities. Though we enjoyed the atmosphere, the brewery did not serve food so we decided to head back to our campsite and stop at Mussel Beach Drive-in just outside the state park.
Mussel Beach
Mussel Beach Drive-In in Bay City is a nostalgic roadside spot with picnic tables out front and a casual, welcoming vibe. It serves classic drive-in fare, including burgers, fries, sandwiches, and ice cream. The atmosphere is friendly and low-key, attracting both locals and travelers seeking a casual dining experience.
We had considered eating outside, but the late-afternoon air had turned a bit too cool and windy, so we decided to take our food back to the camper instead. I ordered a double cheeseburger loaded with all the fixings, a side of crispy onion rings, and a chocolate peanut butter shake that was thick and indulgent. Lisa went for a Chicken Bacon Ranch Wrap with fries and a caramel shake. Back at the camper, we spread out our dinner and enjoyed a cozy meal while the daylight faded—a perfect, simple end to the day.
Wednesday, 1 October
Drive to Riverwalk
This morning, we set out on a long bicycle ride from the campground to the Bay City Riverwalk. The air was brisk but clear, perfect for pedaling. The paved Anderson Nature Trail led us south beneath a canopy of autumn-colored trees, the leaves forming a tunnel of reds, golds, and oranges. Occasionally, the path crossed small roads before opening into stretches of marshland and fields. We crossed the Kawkawlin River on a trail bridge, then continued toward the outskirts of Bay City, where the Bay County Riverwalk/Rail Trail System began, which alternated between paved trails, shared roadway, and sidewalk.
At one point I missed a turn, and we found ourselves crossing the Saginaw River on the Independence Bridge, which gave us a sweeping view of the river and the USS Edson Destroyer anchored below. From there we rode sidewalks back toward the Liberty Bridge and crossed back to the west side, rejoining the Riverwalk along the Saginaw River. The riverfront ride was beautiful—landscaped parks and arboretums stretched out along the water, with prints of local artwork on display and memorials scattered throughout. We stopped often, sometimes to read a plaque, sometimes just to enjoy the view.
The boardwalk took us right along the water’s edge, eventually leading to the Riverfront Pier. From the gazebo at its end, we had sweeping views of the river, the downtown skyline, and the bridges spanning the water. The railings and the ceiling of the gazebo were thick with spider webs, which gave us an eerie feel. Continuing, a long wooden boardwalk carried us over to Bigelow Island, where construction on the Lafayette Street Bridge forced us to turn back. We crossed the Saginaw River at the McKinley Bridge and rode along the west side for a short spell. This section of the Riverwalk was more commercial and took us past restaurants and apartments, but still rewarded us with its steady views of the river.
When we reached the end of the walk and turned back, a massive Romanesque stone building caught my eye. We decided to ride over to it because I thought it might be a museum, but it turned out to be Bay City Hall, its clock tower rising high above the street. Built in 1897 from brownstone and red sandstone, the building reflects the city’s lumber-era prosperity, with arched windows, ornate carvings, and stained glass that speak to its craftsmanship. Right next to it, in the former Bay City City Hall Annex, was the Bay County Historical Museum, so we decided it was the perfect moment to give our legs a break and step inside to explore Bay City’s past.
Bay County Historical Museum
We paid a modest $2 admission fee and began exploring the museum’s well-curated galleries, which traced the region’s story from Native American history and the booming lumber and shipbuilding eras to salt mining, sugar beets, and Bay City’s vibrant cultural life. Upstairs, exhibits highlighted the area’s maritime heritage and the Michigan Rock & Roll Legends Hall of Fame, adding a lively, modern touch. A large poster proudly proclaimed “96 Tears” as the official rock ’n’ roll song of Bay City—a nod to the 1966 hit by local band ? and the Mysterians, a defining classic of garage rock and one of the city’s proudest musical legacies. The displays were thoughtful and engaging, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for the region’s rich and varied history.
Ride Back
As we headed back to the campground, we drove through the historical downtown area which had very little traffic or pedestrians. We then crossed back over the Saginaw River on the Liberty Toll Bridge and rejoined the Bay County Riverwalk/Rail Trail System where we were able to drive on the segment that I had missed earlier. We then connected with the Anderson Nature Trail which returned us to our campground.
When we got back to the camper, we cleaned up and decided to head to Frankenmuth to enjoy one of their famous dinners. Overall, we had ridden over 23 miles.
History of Frankenmuth’s Chicken Dinners
Frankenmuth has two famous chicken dinner restaurants—Zehnder’s of Frankenmuth and the Bavarian Inn Restaurant. They both share a common family heritage but offer distinct experiences. Zehnder’s, set in a bright Colonial-style building, focuses on its traditional all-you-can-eat fried chicken dinners served with classic American sides in a refined setting. Just across the street, the Bavarian Inn adds a festive German flair, combining its famous chicken with Bavarian dishes like schnitzel and bratwurst in an Alpine-themed atmosphere filled with music and Old World charm.
The tradition of chicken dinners in Frankenmuth dates back to the early 1900s and grew from the town’s hospitality toward travelers. Frankenmuth, founded in 1845 by German Lutheran immigrants, became known for its warm welcome and home-style cooking. In the early 20th century, they began serving hearty, family-style chicken dinners to visitors traveling between Detroit and northern Michigan. The meals featured golden fried chicken, mashed potatoes, dressing, noodles, and homemade bread—simple comfort food served in generous portions. The popularity of these meals turned Frankenmuth into a culinary destination, especially after World War II, when family road trips boomed. Both Zehnder’s and the Bavarian Inn refined their recipes and built reputations that attracted tourists from across the Midwest. Today, the Frankenmuth chicken dinner is a century-old tradition—served in two iconic restaurants across the street from each other, together serving millions of guests each year and forming the heart of the town’s “Little Bavaria” charm.
Bavarian Inn Chicken Dinner
We chose The Bavarian Inn in Frankenmuth. Walking inside the hotel was like stepping into a charming German village. It was richly decorated with Bavarian motifs—dark wood paneling, decorative beams, painted murals, cuckoo clocks, and ornate light fixtures that evoke an Alpine tavern feel. We were greeted by hosts in Bavarian costumes at the entrance to the restaurant and escorted to a booth. We ordered a German Beer sampler, which consisted of four 5-oz pours (Hofbrau Original, Hofbrau Hefeweizen, Bavarian Inn Dark, Heidelberg Light), and the chicken dinner. We were first served bread (house-made white bread, Stollen bread — a lightly sweet German fruit bread), some relish dishes to share (coleslaw, cranberry relish, bean salad, macaroni salad), and then a small bowl of chicken noodle soup thick with noodles. Once we finished the soup, they brought us the main course consisting of chicken, sweet potatoes, stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, and butter noodles. The chicken was lightly seasoned, floured, and pan-fried to achieve a golden-brown, crispy crust while keeping the meat tender and juicy inside. Neither of us was thrilled with the crust and we also found the stuffing way too soggy, but everything else was good. Our final bill with tip was over $100, but we knew it was expensive and came for the experience. We also had enough leftovers for another meal.
Bronner’s CHRISTmas Wonderland
We decided to visit Bronner’s CHRISTmas Wonderland, the world’s largest Christmas store—a sprawling Alpine-style complex that covers more than seven acres under one roof and sits on 27 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds. Founded in 1945 by Wally Bronner, who began by painting holiday signs and window displays in his parents’ basement, the business grew steadily as his passion for Christmas décor expanded. By 1954, Wally and his wife Irene had opened their first building devoted to Christmas merchandise, and in 1977, the operation moved to its current 45-acre site on the edge of Frankenmuth, evolving into the massive attraction it is today.
The parking lot was mostly empty when we arrived, but since it was only early October, it was easy to imagine the space packed with cars once the holiday season begins. Stepping inside felt like walking straight into December. The store seemed to stretch endlessly—aisle after aisle glittering with ornaments, twinkling lights, and shelves overflowing with every kind of decoration imaginable. The Bavarian chalet exterior gave way to a festive indoor wonderland filled with Christmas music, soft lighting, and the scent of pine and cinnamon in the air. We wandered through displays of sparkling trees, hand-painted glass ornaments, and intricate nativity sets from around the world, marveling at the sheer variety—over 50,000 items, all dedicated to Christmas, with just a few playful pockets of Halloween décor tucked in. Many of the ornaments could be personalized, so we chose a couple for our children and had their names carefully added while we waited.
Outside, the grounds were filled with towering Santas, snowmen, and other unlit holiday figures awaiting the evening glow. We drove slowly around the lot, snapping photos as the sun dipped low, and just as twilight settled, the displays flickered to life, bathing the grounds in cheerful light. Before leaving, we paused outside the Silent Night Chapel, a peaceful replica of the Austrian original where the beloved hymn was first sung. By the time we pulled away, the sky was deepening toward dusk, and we felt that we were carrying a touch of Christmas spirit with us back into the crisp autumn evening.
We then drove back to our campground and settled in for the evening, reflecting on another beautiful day.
Thursday, 2 October
The next morning, we cooked up some blueberry pancakes and packed up and headed to our next destination in southwestern Michigan, Yankee Springs State Park.