Wednesday, 24 September
The Drive
Leaving Ouabache State Park in Bluffton, Indiana, we began our drive north toward Waterloo State Recreation Area in Michigan, about 140 miles and roughly 3 hours on the road. From the park, we picked up IN-1 north into Bluffton and then joined US-224 east, which carried us toward I-69. Once on I-69 north, the miles rolled by quickly as we passed through Fort Wayne and continued through northeastern Indiana, a landscape of broad fields, scattered farmsteads, and the occasional small town. Crossing into Michigan, we stayed on I-69 until reaching the junction with I-94 west, where the scenery shifted to rolling hills, thicker woodlands, and glints of small lakes alongside the highway. The last stretch on I-94 led us past Jackson and into the heart of Waterloo, where winding park roads took us deep into a setting of hardwood forests, marshes, and glacial lakes.
Portage Lake Campground
Portage Lake Campground is part of Waterloo State Recreation Area, the largest state park unit in Michigan’s Lower Peninsula. Waterloo covers more than 20,000 acres of forests, wetlands, lakes, and rolling glacial hills. The landscape was shaped by Ice Age glaciers, leaving behind kettle lakes, bogs, and ridges that give the terrain its variety and beauty. Wildlife is abundant, with deer, wild turkeys, sandhill cranes, and even bald eagles spotted regularly.
The campground offers about 100 sites, most with paved parking pads. Sites are a mix of electric and rustic, with many shaded beneath tall hardwoods. Some sit close to the lake, while others are tucked back into the woods for privacy. Amenities include modern restrooms with hot showers, a dump station, a swimming beach, a boat launch, a playground, and picnic shelters. Fishing piers and trailheads are located right within the campground. Cyclists can ride nearby dirt and gravel loops or explore quiet rolling country roads, while hikers have access to more than 47 miles of trails, including the 36-mile Waterloo–Pinckney Trail, which winds through forests, wetlands, and glacial hills.
Our Site
When we arrived, we first drove past our site to check whether the water spigot near the site could be used to fill our freshwater tank. Unfortunately, it was the type without a hose connection—likely to prevent campers from monopolizing it—so we had to return to the dump station to fill up.
Our site did not have a paved pad but was set in a grassy area with a large bare patch in the middle that turned muddy after the evening rain. Even so, it was fairly flat, and we were able to level the trailer without blocks. Several large trees stood nearby, promising partial shade the following day. While it would have been nice to have a lakeview site or a paved pad, we were content with the quiet setting. Since the campground was mostly empty, we had no nearby neighbors, which made it feel especially peaceful.
Dinner
Once the camper was set up, we turned our attention to dinner. I grilled the beef dogs we had picked up from Marcoot Dairy, while Lisa prepared sweet corn on the cob and sliced fresh tomatoes from the Madison Farmers Market. The simple meal tasted wonderful, thanks to the freshness of the ingredients. Later in the evening, we finally treated ourselves to the lemon pie we had been saving from the Canaan Fall Festival—a perfect sweet ending to a long day of travel.
Thursday, 25 September
Cooked up some blueberry pancakes. Took off around 10 am.
Hell, MI
Our first stop of the day was Hell, Michigan. The drive in took us through rolling farmland and thick woods before we finally spotted the quirky little cluster of businesses that make up this unincorporated community. We pulled into Screams Ice Cream & Souvenirs, which sits right next to the Hell Saloon. As soon as we got out of the truck, a staff member—busy sweeping leaves—greeted us warmly. He pointed out the main attractions, restrooms, and even offered to take photos for us.
Inside, we browsed shelves full of playful Hell-themed merchandise before wandering out back, where the real fun begins. The yard was dotted with photo cutouts, kitschy hell-inspired decorations, and even a tiny chapel (for those wanting to be married in hell). There was a spot for scattering ashes (for those wanting to be buried in hell), a miniature golf course, and a small lending library tucked into the corner. A narrow stream ran beside the property, decorated with folk art along the banks. Several rusty “locks of love” clung to metal fences nearby, and just beyond stood a little dam that looked more like a leaky sprinkler, water spurting through several holes.
After enjoying the oddball attractions and snapping plenty of pictures, we climbed back into the truck to head toward our next destination. With no cell phone reception to guide us, though, I couldn’t help but laugh—was no internet just another example of what it was like in hell?
Chelsea
We drove south through Chelsea with its landmark clock tower and its red brick and tall windows standing as a proud reminder of the city’s industrial roots. We passed the Jiffy Mix factory, where the towering silos and walls were brightened with colorful murals. Unfortunately, they had discontinued tours during the COVID-19 pandemic. The downtown area was filled with tourists walking around historic brick storefronts that housed cafés, boutiques, and art shops.
Fairy Forest in Grass Lake
We continued south to the town of Grass Lake, where, tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood, we stopped outside the Fairy Forest. At first glance, it looked like a small patch of trees, but a small opening through the shrubs revealed a magical world created by the community. In a small cleared area, tiny fairy houses and gnome dwellings were tucked between roots and perched on stumps. Painted rocks sparkled in the leaves, and strands of beads and glass ornaments caught the light as they dangled from low branches.
The Fairy Forest began about a decade ago as a neighborhood project, when local families started placing small fairy houses in the woods for children to discover. Over time, word spread, and visitors began contributing their own creations—gnomes, doors, painted rocks, and bits of shiny décor. What started as a handful of whimsical decorations has grown into an ever-changing village, tended by both locals and travelers who stop by to leave a little magic behind.
The deeper we wandered, the more details appeared: miniature benches carved from twigs, little doors attached to tree trunks, and colorful trinkets left by visitors as offerings to the fairies. There was a mailbox with markers and paper where children could leave notes. Chimes hung from a branch with a small wooden hammer, allowing visitors to make music. Every corner seemed to hold a hidden surprise. It felt like walking through the pages of a storybook—playful, unexpected, and full of childlike wonder.
Mr Chicken
We made a quick stop at the Crossroads Animal Hospital to pay our respects at the gravesite of Mr. Chicken. Back in December 1996, a rooster lost both of its feet in a storm. Rather than put him down, local veterinarian Tim England crafted a pair of custom acrylic legs and feet to slip over the stumps. He named the bird Mr. Chicken, and soon the one-of-a-kind rooster became a feel-good celebrity. His story spread far beyond Grass Lake—featured in Newsweek and newspapers as far away as South Africa and Hawaii.
Sadly, Mr. Chicken’s fame was short-lived. Just six months later, in June 1997, he was mauled but what was assumed to be a raccoon. Today, he rests in the animal hospital’s flower garden, marked by a small headstone with the words, “He was a famous little guy.”
Downtown Jackson
We decided to take a drive through downtown Jackson. On the way in, we passed older suburban neighborhoods where the homes, though full of character with wraparound porches, tall windows, ornate trim, and mature shade trees, bore the weight of time. Many showed clear signs of neglect—peeling paint, sagging porches, and overgrown yards that gave the streets a tired look.
Downtown itself was a study in contrasts. Historic brick façades and restored landmarks stood beside boarded windows and vacant lots. The scars of blight were impossible to ignore, yet splashes of color broke through—massive, vibrant murals from the Bright Walls project transforming blank walls into outdoor art galleries. We wound our way through the streets, catching glimpses of these bold creations that seemed determined to push back against the city’s decline.
A 2022 report noted that around 20% of residents live below the poverty line, compared to about 13% statewide. Once a strong manufacturing town, Jackson lost much of its industry and population over the decades. Jobs disappeared, families moved away, and the tax base shrank, leaving behind scars that are still visible in the streets and neighborhoods today.
Heading south, the mood darkened again as we entered more neglected blocks. There we passed the charred shell of a large building—the remains of Thayer Marine, destroyed in a fire earlier this summer. Its blackened frame stood as a stark reminder of loss, adding to the landscape of blight that still lingers in parts of Jackson.
Ella Sharp Museum of Art and History
We then drove into the 562-acre Ella Sharp Park and followed the winding road through rolling hills, shaded groves, and open meadows until we reached the Ella Sharp Museum of Art and History. It was a nice green space in contrast to the older neighborhoods surrounding it.
We stopped at the Ella Sharp Museum of Art and History. Ella Merriman-Sharp willed her home and 530-acre property in 1912 to the City of Jackson with the request that it be used as a park and museum. Sharp Park opened in 1919, and the museum was formally established in 1965.
At the heart of the Ella Sharp Museum complex is Ella’s 19th-century farmhouse, the original Merriman-Sharp home, carefully restored to offer a glimpse into Victorian-era life in Jackson. Connected to it are the main museum galleries, modern spaces that host rotating art and history exhibitions, community collections, and traveling shows. Just next door stands the Hurst Planetarium, a domed theater that brings the night sky indoors with astronomy programs and presentations. Scattered across the grounds are historic outbuildings, including a log cabin, a one-room schoolhouse, and other agricultural structures that tell the story of Jackson’s rural past. Completing the campus are art and sculpture spaces, where small gardens, outdoor exhibits, and occasional sculptures blend the museum’s cultural mission with the natural beauty of Ella Sharp Park.
The museum had free admission until the end of October. We first visited the main museum galleries where we began with a small but thoughtful exhibit on Michigan’s role in the Civil War, displaying artifacts and stories that connected the state to the larger national conflict. From there, we stepped into the art galleries, where several diverse exhibits were on display:
- Women of Influence — honoring local women who helped shape Jackson’s economic, social, and cultural landscape.
- Doug Jones Exhibit — works by one of Jackson’s own artists, showcasing creativity rooted in the community.
- Andy & Sandy Andrews Wildlife Collection — a fascinating look at the intersection of art, hunting traditions, and conservation, featuring vivid wildlife imagery.
- Tyree Guyton Exhibit — the largest gallery, filled with colorful and imaginative works from the Detroit artist behind the Heidelberg Project, where discarded objects are transformed into powerful symbols of resilience, community, and hope. This was probably our favorite exhibit.
After walking through the galleries, we talked with a receptionist and learned that the planetarium had a show at 3 pm. Since it was a little after 1 pm, we decided to leave and come back later that afternoon to see the rest of the complex.
McCourtie Park
We then drove about 25 minutes south of the museum complex along bad roads in older suburban neighborhoods and eventually narrow country roads until we reached McCortie Park.
In the early 1930s, Michigan cement magnate W. H. L. McCourtie transformed his Somerset estate into a showcase of craftsmanship and imagination. Wanting to highlight both his industry and the artistry possible with cement, he hired Mexican artisans George Cardoso and Ralph Corona, masters of the folk style known as el trabajo rústico—a tradition of sculpting concrete to look like natural wood.
On the property, they constructed seventeen whimsical bridges, each with steel rod frameworks coated in carefully sculpted concrete. Up close, the detail is striking: railings resemble planed lumber, beams mimic rough-hewn logs, and decorative elements imitate rope and even thatch. The illusion is so convincing that many visitors mistake the bridges for real timber until they touch the cool, solid cement.
Today the estate is preserved as McCourtie Park, a public space open to all. The park covers 42 acres and offers picnic areas, open lawns, a playground, and a fountain. The bridges themselves are the main attraction. scattered across a gentle ravine shaded by mature trees, making the park as much an outdoor art gallery as a recreational area. Scattered about were also some wood-like benches. It was a blend of natural beauty and artistry.
We then walked over to the two towering concrete trees. At first glance, they appear to be old oaks, but they cleverly function as chimneys for the underground rathskeller-style garage and entertainment space hidden beneath the estate’s lawn. Smoke from the fireplaces and stoves below was funneled up through these faux trees, disguising the estate’s social hub as part of the natural setting.
It was a beautiful park and we really enjoyed walking across most of the bridges while admiring the detail of the craftsmanship.
Ella Sharp Museum Complex – Farm Road
We then returned to the Ella Sharp Museum complex to see the planetarium show. We arrived about 2:30 so we we had time to walk down “Farm Road” and admire the historic outbuildings that included the original farmhouse, Dibble schoolhouse, wood shop, granary, general store, and gazebo. We were unable to enter any of the buildings, but we were able to peek through the windows of most of them.
On our way out of the Ella Sharp Museum, we couldn’t resist stopping to see one of its quirkiest attractions—the giant shoe. Sitting just off the main building, it’s a seven-foot-tall Victorian-style boot, sculpted out of concrete over a styrofoam core. At an estimated size 236, it’s less of a shoe and more of a whimsical landmark, towering far above us as if it had been dropped by a friendly giant.
The boot was created in 2018 by artist Joshua Diedrich and commissioned by Jackson native Robert LaZebnik, who wanted something playful and eye-catching for the museum grounds. With its old-fashioned lace-up design and exaggerated scale, it feels part sculpture, part roadside oddity. We snapped a few photos next to it—looking like miniature figures beside a giant’s forgotten footwear—before heading back to the planetarium.
The Hurst Planetarium
Inside the planetarium, we wandered through the lobby’s space exhibits before entering the theater with its vaulted 30-foot domed ceiling. Nobody else had arrived by showtime, so at exactly 3 pm, the projectionist introduced herself and gave us a friendly rundown of what we were about to see. Leaning as far back in our comfortable, but unfortunately, non-reclining chairs we watch two 20-minute features tracing humanity’s efforts to reach Mars—NASA’s Journey to Mars, and the LRO & LCROSS. The content felt a bit dated but it was still engaging and educational.
Meckley’s Flavor Fruit Farm
On our way to McCourtie Park, we passed Meckley’s Flavor Fruit Farm in Cement City, which looked so inviting that we promised ourselves we’d circle back after the planetarium show. When we returned, we passed the neat rows of apple orchards with its discard apples laying around on the ground and fields of sorghum. We pulled into their large gravel lot which was quiet on a weekday afternoon, but signs advertised their lively weekend festival with hayrides, fall activities, animals, and a corn maze that drew big crowds.
The Meckley family has farmed here since the 1950s, gradually building the business into one of southern Michigan’s most beloved cider mills. Originally starting as an apple orchard and cider press, the farm has expanded to include peach orchards, sorghum production, a full bakery, and even a winery and brewery. Today, they are known for their fresh-pressed cider, homemade donuts, fruit wines, hard ciders, and craft beers, with much of it produced right on site.
We began exploring in the courtyard, alive with color—piles of different types of pumpkins and gourds were laid out, and harvest displays were scattered everywhere. We wandered into the cider mill and country store, where shelves were packed with jars of jams and jellies, bottles of local honey, baskets of crisp apples, cans of cider, and rows of wine bottles cleverly labeled with different dog breeds. The air was sweet with the smell of fresh apples and cinnamon.
From there, we ducked into the bakery, where coolers and counters tempted us with pies, breads, and pastries, before heading upstairs to the taproom. The space had a rustic, wood-trimmed feel, with long communal tables and a bar with a digital board listing eight ciders and eight beers on tap. We ordered a flight—three beers and one cider—and carried it outside to the vine-covered patio. The tables were made from old wooden barrels, and the weather was flawless: partly cloudy skies, warm sun, and just enough of a cool breeze to remind us it was autumn in Michigan.
I went back in to order their happy hour special—loaded nachos topped with pulled pork, served with a large container of melted cheese on the side. The heaping platter was easily enough for both of us, and we had to share another pour of their Irish Red Ale to help us finish off the meal.
Before leaving, we circled back through the bakery store hoping to snag a dozen of their famous donuts, but they were already sold out for the day. Instead, we picked up two scones—Apple Caramel and Blueberry—along with a Pumpkin Roll that looked too good to resist.
Evening
Gas prices in the area went from $2.84 to $3.29. We stopped at a Marathon on the way home that sold theirs for $2.84 and was able to use an app to get an additional 50 cents off. We then continued home and settled in for the evening.
Friday, 26 September
We enjoyed our scones that we got the previous day at Meckley’s Flavor Fruit Farm. They were overly sweet, but tasty. We then packed up and, instead of leaving right away, we made a trip up to a McDonald’s to watch a livestream of a funeral of a father-in-law who had passed a couple of days prior from Parkinson’s.
We then returned to the truck and headed north toward Hershey, Michigan.