Wednesday, 17 September
The Drive
Leaving Dam West Campground at Carlyle Lake around noon and headed toward Red Hills State Park near Sumner, IL. We took US-50 most of the way through small towns, cornfields, and endless stretches of soybeans. The flat prairie gave way gradually to rolling ground, with woodlots and old barns tucked among the farms. It took us about two hours to travel the 95 miles between the parks.
Red Hills State Park
We turned off US-50 and wound our way into Red Hills State Park. With no entry gate to pass through, we simply followed the signs first to the dump station to fill our water tank and then on toward our campsite, which offered a pleasant view of Red Hills Lake shimmering through the trees. The campground itself is fairly large, with about 120 Class A sites, each equipped with electricity, picnic tables, and fire rings, plus modern restrooms and showers nearby. There are also a handful of walk-in tent sites tucked into the woods for those who prefer something a little more rustic.
The park’s story reaches back to the 1930s, when the lake and surrounding recreation area were created as a Depression-era project. The Civilian Conservation Corps and Works Progress Administration played a crucial role in shaping the land, clearing trails, building shelters, and developing what was then one of the first public recreation sites in southeastern Illinois. Red Hills itself takes its name from the reddish soil and rolling terrain that set it apart from the flat farmland around it. During the early years, the lake became a popular spot for boating and fishing, drawing both locals and travelers along the National Road (today’s US-50). Over time, the area grew into a full state park, preserving not only the lake but also the surrounding oak-hickory forest and patches of prairie. It has remained a favorite destination for camping, hiking, and fishing in the region.
Our Site
We stayed at Site #89, which had a nice view of the lake through the trees. The site was long enough for both our camper and truck and sat on a slightly raised gravel pad. We had to use a couple of blocks to get the trailer level. Tall trees surrounded the site, giving us plenty of shade and a quiet, tucked-away feel.
After setting up, we grabbed a couple of cold beers and sat behind the trailer looking out at the lake. A fishing dock sat on the water just below. The water shimmered in the late-day sun, and we could hear the rustle of leaves, birds calling, and the occasional splash from the shore. It was calm and peaceful—a great spot to just sit back and relax.
Olney and the White Squirrels
We decided to take a drive out to Olney, Illinois, to see its famous white squirrels. These unusual creatures are not a separate species but albino Eastern gray squirrels, their coats a brilliant snowy white and their eyes a soft, pinkish red. They’ve become the town’s proud symbol, so much so that local ordinances protect them and even grant them the right of way on city streets.
We drove directly over to Olney City Park, where the squirrels are known to be most active. We rolled slowly through the park, scanning the lawns and trees until we finally spotted one darting near the Carle Fitness Trail—a half-mile loop through a wooded area at the north end. Against the green grass, its white fur almost glowed. We parked the truck, settled onto a bench, and quietly watched as the little creature hopped and foraged. Before long, we noticed a few more in the distance, flashes of white moving across the grounds or spiraling up tree trunks. We strolled the loop ourselves and counted several more along the way, each sighting as delightful as the first.
The story of how the white squirrels came to Olney has taken on the air of local legend. Some claim they were raised and released here in the early 1900s, while others believe a farmer brought them over from nearby Sumner. However they arrived, they established a colony that the town has fiercely protected ever since. Every October, volunteers spread out across the city to conduct a squirrel census, tallying the population. We learned that numbers once reached into the hundreds during the mid-20th century but have dwindled to around 80 today. Still, the town continues to look after them, even going so far as to restrict free-roaming cats to ensure their survival.
Before leaving Olney City Park, we made a point to track down the hard-to-find historical marker that claims Olney was the birthplace of solar power. Tucked away near the edge of the park, the marker reads: “The first experimental solar power plant was built in Olney, Illinois, by H. E. Willsie and John Boyle Jr. in 1902.” While intriguing, the claim is a bit questionable; Willsie and Boyle’s experiments never gained wide recognition, and most histories of solar energy make little mention of them. Still, the idea that two Illinois inventors were tinkering with sunlight to generate power more than a century ago adds an unexpected twist to Olney’s history.
Before we left town, we stopped by a quirky roadside attraction known as the Auto Parks Family. Several creatures, all different, made of automobile parts and household junk, sit alongside the road, providing a fun photo opportunity.
Griffin’s Pizza House for Ice Cream
On the way back to our campsite, we decided to treat ourselves to some ice cream and pulled into Griffin’s Pizza House in nearby Bridgeport. Our campground hosts, who had stopped by in their golf cart while we were setting up, had told us it was the best spot in town for hard ice cream—and they weren’t wrong. The little shop sat right across from the high school, where the sounds of whistles and shouts from football practice drifted over as we parked. Inside, the atmosphere was simple and welcoming, the kind of place where everyone seems to know one another. I ordered a waffle cone piled high with triple chocolate chunk, rich and decadent with every bite, while Lisa chose a cup of strawberry cheesecake, swirled with bits of crust. The portions were generous, the ice cream delicious, and the prices almost unbelievable—just five dollars for both.
Evening
When we got back to the campsite, I fired up the grill and cooked the last of the burgers we had brought from Marcoot Dairy earlier in the trip. The smell of sizzling beef drifted through the trees as Lisa worked inside, putting together a simple side of peas and potatoes—the kind of comforting meal that always tastes better outdoors. We had hoped to enjoy it under the fading light, but the bugs were too persistent and pushed us indoors. Even so, we left the windows and door open, listening through the screens to the evening soundtrack of crickets, birds calling from the treetops, and the steady rustle of leaves in the breeze.
After the sun slipped below the horizon, we tried to close the outer camper door, but in that brief moment, we managed to let in a cloud of gnats. Suddenly, we were chasing them around with our bug zappers. Eventually, the faint blue crackle slowed down, and we were able to relax the rest of the evening.
Thursday, 18 September
Newton, IL
We pulled out of the campground a little after 8 a.m. and headed toward Newton, IL, to see the hometown of Burl Ives. During our 40-minute drive, we enjoyed looking out at the corn fields, the stalks rattling in the breeze like paper. The husks had turned a brittle tan, and the ears hung heavy—fields ready for the harvest.
At a street corner in the center of town, we found a granite statue of Burl Ives, sitting on a bench with a guitar in hand. Burl Ives (1909–1995) was an American folk singer, actor, and narrator best remembered for his warm voice and storytelling style. Born in Jasper County, Illinois, he became famous for popularizing folk songs, starring in films like Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and East of Eden, and for his beloved role as Sam the Snowman in the classic Christmas special Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. His career spanned music, radio, Broadway, movies, and television, making him one of the most versatile and recognizable entertainers of the 20th century
We parked and posed for some photos and then continued to a nearby quirky attraction from Roadside America called the “Mug Tree.” A tree sitting in the front yard of a private home was decorated with coffee mugs. It was a silly display of local character.
From there we continued to Mound Cemetery in Willow Hill, where Burl Ives is buried. The secluded cemetery sat beside a simple country church, ringed by cornfields turning golden in the autumn light. Near the center stood a tall granite monument engraved with his likeness and a short tribute. At its base, visitors had placed small reindeer figurines, a nod to his role as Sam the Snowman in Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. Seeing them there felt touching, as if fans still left tokens of thanks for the joy he brought each Christmas. We stood listening to the wind rustle through the dry cornstalks (and a maintenance crew mowing the lawn), and reflected on our own memories of him before heading out on our next adventure.
Heath Museum
We rolled on to the Heath Museum & Confectionery in Robinson, Illinois, a spot that blended a small-town candy museum with the charm of an old-fashioned soda fountain. The building itself held a special significance—it was the original location where the Heath Bar was first created, before production eventually moved to the much larger Hershey plant still operating nearby. Inside, we found glass cases and shelves filled with more than a thousand artifacts: vintage photos, colorful candy wrappers, original Heath Bar molds, and candy-making tools. The cases and shelves were also filled with milk containers and displays of other candy products once made by the company, each piece adding to the story of a family business that began in 1913, when L. S. Heath bought a little confectionery shop for his sons. From that modest start, the Heaths built a thriving company that produced not only the famous Heath Bar but a variety of candies and even ran their own Coca-Cola bottling plant.
Wanting to savor both the history and the flavor of the place, we decided to order some ice cream—but we learned our only option was a Heath Sundae. We decided to give it a try, but our excitement dimmed when the server handed us two plain foam cups with vanilla ice cream topped with a sprinkle of crushed Heath bar. No whipped cream, no cherry, nothing extra. We ate it anyway, enjoying the taste even if the presentation left something to be desired. Before leaving, we picked up a small bag of individually wrapped Heath Bars as a sweet memento of the stop.
Indiana Military Museum
We drove about forty minutes south, crossed the Wabash River, and rolled into Vincennes, Indiana. Our destination was easy to spot—the Indiana Military Museum, its grounds dotted with tanks, artillery pieces, and even the conning tower of a submarine rising up as if it were just below the surface of the water. Several museum buildings stood behind this open-air display, giving the whole place the feel of a military park as much as a museum.
We bought our tickets at the main building and began our visit by exploring the outdoor exhibits. A mock World War I trench gave a sense of what soldiers endured, while a recreated Vietnam firebase stood bristling with sandbags and equipment. From there, we stepped into the galleries, grateful for the cool air after the afternoon heat. Inside, the collection unfolded chronologically and walked us through the wars we fought against ourselves and against others. Uniforms, weapons, and personal effects filled the cases, many of them donated by families of Indiana veterans. Not only was American equipment displayed, but there were a lot of allied and enemy items also. The galleries felt like a chapter in a vast story, and the thoughtful displays made it easy to trace the evolution of both warfare and the people who fought it.
Bobe’s Pizza
We gained an hour when we crossed into Indiana, so it was about 2 pm EST when we finished exploring the museum so we were ready for lunch. We decided on a local favorite called Bobe’s Pizza that was established in 1954. We ordered their signature Farouk Pizza, which arrived on a thin, crisp crust blistered golden at the edges. It was piled with spicy sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, onions, and green peppers, all held together by a thick blanket of mozzarella. Bobe’s own tomato sauce, used sparingly, added just the right touch of sweetness and spice. The first slice sagged under the weight of the toppings, cheese stretching in long strings as we pulled it free. It was messy, hearty, and delicious—the kind of pizza that earned its reputation as a Vincennes favorite.
George Rogers Clark Memorial
After lunch, we made our way to the George Rogers Clark National Historical Park, which sits along the Wabash River on the very ground where Clark and his men captured Fort Sackville in 1779. We got our passport book stamped at the visitor center and watch a short film about Clark’s bold Revolutionary War campaign—his grueling winter march across flooded plains, his surprise attack on Vincennes, and the unlikely victory that secured the Illinois country for the fledgling United States.
From there, a park ranger walked us over to the memorial itself, an impressive circular structure of white granite that loomed above the trees. Inside, the marble rotunda was cool and echoing. A massive statue of Clark stood at the center, solemn and commanding, while towering murals wrapped around the walls. The ranger gave us a set of headsets that described each of the murals. It was a very impressive memorial.
We then walked nearby to the St. Francis Xavier Cathedral and went inside. St. Francis Xavier is the oldest Catholic parish in Indiana, with roots tracing back to Jesuit missionaries in the early 1700s. The current church building, known as the “Old Cathedral,” was constructed in 1826 in the Greek Revival style on or near the sites of two earlier log churches. It served as the cathedral for the Diocese of Vincennes from 1834 until 1898, when the see was moved, and in 1970 it was elevated to the status of a minor basilica in recognition of its historical, architectural, and spiritual significance. It is built of reddish-orange brick laid in Flemish bond. Inside, large Doric columns support arched ceilings, while yellow poplar beams plastered and painted to resemble marble lend an air of classical elegance. Stained glass windows, some dating back to the early 1900s, depict the Four Evangelists and other biblical scenes, while murals and French-painted Stations of the Cross enrich the walls. Beneath the church lies a crypt holding the remains of Indiana’s first bishops.
We when walked around the grounds of the park and read some of the signs. We walked toward the Lincoln Memorial Bridge which spans the Wabash River which was built in 1933. What makes the bridge especially striking are the decorative elements: at its Indiana end, two towering granite pylons—carved by sculptor Raoul Josset—stand as silent sentinels. Each pylon bears a relief of a Native American chief (one being Tecumseh, the other his brother known as “The Prophet”), in full regalia. These figures guard the bridge entrance, giving a sense of gravity and artfulness to what could otherwise feel purely functional.
We followed the Wabash River which gave us beautiful views of both the river and the memorial until we reached the other end of the park. We briefly returned to visitor center where we explored some of their displays that we had missed previously before returning to our truck.
Downtown Vincennes — Uncle Sam, Giant Pencil, Bison, Minooteeni Park
With the afternoon light still strong, we went on a hunt for some quirky Roadside America attractions scattered around town. We first drove over to the towering Uncle Sam standing 15-20 feet tall at Ducky’s Express Wash. He’s posed with one hand clutching his lapel while the other is outstretched, in that classic Uncle Sam call-to-action stance—though depending on where you stand, the statue’s proportions and gesture take on a slightly comical air.
When then drove up Hart Street to the public library which had a giant pencil made of wood sticking out of the ground. There was also painted bison.
We then drove up to 1st Street to the Minooteeni Park that was being developed to honor the indigenous peoples who lived in this area before European settlement. The park featured a large wooden sculpture of Chief Tecumseh, created by artist Peter Wolf Toth in 2009. It’s part of Toth’s Trail of the Whispering Giants project, a series of carved heads in every U.S. state meant to honor Native American heritage and culture. There was also a large turtle sculpture that has symbolic importance in many Native American traditions. There was also a couple other modern sculptures.
Lincoln Trail State Memorial – Lincoln Crossing the Wabash
As we crossed the Wabash River on Lincoln Memorial Bridge and reentered Illinois, we stopped at the Lincoln Trail Memorial. This memorial marks the spot where Abraham Lincoln and his family entered Illinois in March 1830. Dedicated in 1938 and designed by sculptor Nellie Verne Walker, the memorial features a bronze statue of a young Lincoln standing before a large Bedford stone relief that depicts the Lincoln family’s ox-drawn wagon, livestock, and belongings as they journeyed westward to begin a new life. It serves as both a roadside landmark and a reminder of the humble beginnings that shaped Lincoln’s enduring legacy.
The Big Peach
We then drove about 30 minutes north of Vincennes to see “The Big Peach.” The Big Peach is a giant peach sculpture—roughly 20 feet tall—mounted on a base. Beside it is a yellow obelisk (a small Washington Monument-style tower), which together with the peach creates a striking landmark for the roadside. The peach was built in 1954 by Wilbur and Doris Yates, originally as part of a roadside produce stand and farm market.
When we arrived, the produce stand was closed but there was someone mowing the grass near the store who said that it would be alright to take pictures of the peach. There were several activity areas set up around the peach that seemed to indicate that a harvest festival had or was taking place. They looked like fun. We took some pictures of the peach which was in good condition. We also saw a modified school bus nearby which was similar to many others we had seen in the area as farm cargo carriers. This particular bus had a sandbox and sand toys inside it with dried corn instead of sand. We guessed it was probably a festival ride for children. It looked like great fun.
Evening
We then headed back but stopped in Sumner at a soft-serve ice cream shack called Dairy Dee. I got a strawberry shake while Lisa chose a Key Lime Pie and Lemon Twist ice cream cup which was tangy and refreshing.
By the time we rolled back into camp, the sky was streaked with pink and gold. We topped off the fresh water tank and hunkered down for the evening.
Friday, 19 September
Red Skeleton Museum of American Comedy
In the morning, we decided to return to Vincennes to visit the Red Skelton Museum of American Comedy, located on the campus of Vincennes University. Although we both recognized his name, we realized we didn’t know much about the entertainer himself. The 3,500-square-foot museum, housed within the university’s Performing Arts Center, offered an engaging mix of history and fun through its interactive exhibits. We were able to record radio sound effects, perform skits on a green screen, and even apply virtual clown makeup in “The Clown’s Dressing Room.” The displays traced Skelton’s remarkable journey from his modest beginnings in Vincennes through his rise in medicine shows, vaudeville, radio, film, and television, where he brought to life beloved characters such as Freddie the Freeloader and Clem Kadiddlehopper. The museum also showcased his colorful clown paintings, vintage film posters, and personal memorabilia donated by family and fans. Altogether, it was a lively and heartfelt tribute to a hometown hero who made America laugh for generations.
Veterans Memorial in Vincennes
Before we left Vincennes, we stopped at the Knox County Soldiers and Sailors Monument, a large Civil War memorial located on the grounds of the Knox County Courthouse in downtown Vincennes. Rising from the courthouse lawn, the monument features a tall limestone column topped with a Union soldier standing at parade rest, his gaze fixed solemnly across the square. Around the base are four cannons and bronze plaques listing the names of local men who served in the war. Dedicated in 1914, it stands as both a reminder of the county’s sacrifices and the enduring respect for its veterans. The surrounding park, shaded by old trees and lined with benches and flags, has since been expanded to honor those who served in later conflicts, creating a quiet, reflective place at the heart of the city.
After we returned to the campground, we finished packing and left for Clifty Falls State Park in Indiana.