Wednesday, 5 July
The Journey from Lowden State Park, IL, to Lincoln’s New Salem State Historic Site, IL
We primarily traveled on I-39 and I-55 to reach our next campground, covering 194 miles.
Lincoln’s New Salem State Historic Site
Lincoln’s New Salem State Historic Site, located near Petersburg, Illinois, is a meticulously reconstructed 1830s pioneer village where Abraham Lincoln lived from 1831 to 1837. This period was formative in Lincoln’s life, as he worked as a store clerk, surveyor, postmaster, and militia captain while developing his self-education and political ambitions. The 700-acre site features 23 log buildings reconstructed on their original foundations. These include homes, shops, a school, a tavern, and a mill, all furnished with period-appropriate artifacts. Costumed interpreters bring the village to life, demonstrating 19th-century trades, crafts, and daily activities, offering visitors an immersive experience of frontier life.
Campground
The campground features approximately 200 campsites, including both tent and RV spots. Some sites offer electrical hookups, while others are more primitive. It was located in the scenic Sangamon River Valley. We had site 63, an electric-only site near a water spigot. We filled our fresh water tank at the dump before we parked that camper. We only had to pay $66.44 for the three nights, which was great.
After setting up the camp, we headed to the New Salem Visitor Center.
New Salem Visitor Center
The Lincoln’s New Salem State Historic Site Visitor Center is the gateway to the reconstructed pioneer village where Abraham Lincoln lived and worked from 1831 to 1837. The visitor center introduces the site’s history and Lincoln’s early years as a young adult before he embarked on his political career. The building features exhibits that offer context about the village, its residents, and Lincoln’s time there. Visitors can explore artifacts, interpretive displays, and dioramas that illustrate life in the 1830s, including Lincoln’s work as a store clerk, postmaster, and surveyor. A short video presentation provides an overview of New Salem and Lincoln’s connection to it. The center also houses a gift shop with books, souvenirs, and locally made items.
It was about to storm, so we hurried outside to see the 23 reconstructed log buildings in the nearby village.
Farmer’s Point Cemetery
We then headed to Springfield, taking a scenic drive through central Illinois. Along the way, we passed a historical marker at Farmer’s Point Cemetery, commemorating Mentor Graham, one of Abraham Lincoln’s teachers. Graham was instrumental in Lincoln’s early education, helping him improve his grammar and writing skills, which would later prove crucial in his political career.
Springfield
As we drove through the downtown area of Springfield, we discovered a couple of large murals of Abraham Lincoln that signified we were in the right place.
Cozy Dog Drive-In
For dinner, we drove out to the historic Cozy Dog Drive-In. Established in 1949, it is renowned as the home of the original “Cozy Dog,” a deep-fried, battered hot dog on a stick, considered a forerunner to the modern corn dog. The restaurant’s founder, Ed Waldmire, developed the Cozy Dog recipe in 1946, which has remained a staple ever since. The establishment is family-owned and continues to use the original batter recipe.
Situated along the historic Route 66, the Cozy Dog Drive-In is adorned with Route 66 memorabilia. There are artifacts related to the Waldmire family, including items associated with Ed’s son, Bob Waldmire, a renowned Route 66 artist. His artwork and sketches are prominently featured. A large bookshelf labeled “Edwin Walmire Memorial Library” features a collection of books, memorabilia, and photographs that celebrate Ed’s life, the history of the Cozy Dog, and the legacy of Route 66. Visitors can browse titles highlighting local history, culinary traditions, and stories of the iconic highway, creating a unique blend of history and nostalgia.
We ordered a 4-pack of Cozy Dogs, a large basket of fries, and two sodas.
Pinky: The Pink Elephant with a Martini Glass
We then drove up the road to see Pinky, the glasses-wearing, martini-drinking, giant pink elephant on wheels. Acquired by Bob Kent Sr in 1974 from a restaurant owner in Paris, IL, the pink elephant has become a celebrity in Springfield and is often seen at countless parades, fundraisers, birthday parties, receptions, and events of every kind. His presence has brought joy to the partygoers and resulted in thousands of dollars in donations over four decades. It even led the funeral procession when Bob Kent Sr died. His son now owns it, and it is kept in the parking lot of a mall he owns.
Illinois State Police Memorial Park
We then stopped at the Illinois State Police Memorial Park, dedicated to honoring Illinois State Police officers who have sacrificed their lives in the line of duty. The park features life-sized bronze statues of state troopers and a granite monument with the names of fallen officers. Next door was the beautiful First Christian Church with its stunning stained glass windows and Neo-Gothic architectural design.
The Lincoln Depot
We then stopped at The Lincoln Depot, which appeared to be getting some street repairs, and it was closed for the evening. This historic train station is famous as the site where Abraham Lincoln bid farewell to his hometown as he departed for Washington, D.C., to become the 16th president of the United States.
On February 11, 1861, Lincoln delivered his poignant Farewell Address to a crowd of friends and supporters from the depot’s platform. In this speech, he expressed his gratitude to the people of Springfield and reflected on the uncertainties of the journey ahead. The speech has become one of Lincoln’s most memorable and heartfelt moments. Today, the Lincoln Depot has been preserved as a historical site.
Oak Ridge Cemetery
We then drove to the Oak Ridge Cemetery, the largest cemetery in the state. It was established in 1856, and it spans over 365 acres. We first drove past the many war memorials to Illinois veterans of World War II, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War. Because it was late, we did not stop but planned to return.
The cemetery is best known as the final resting place of Abraham Lincoln. Lincoln’s Tomb was a stunning granite structure topped with an obelisk and bronze statues. The tomb was closed to visitors for the evening, but we planned to return later.
Illinois State Fairgrounds
We then drove to the Illinois State Fairgrounds to see the World’s Tallest Abraham Lincoln Statue. Standing 30 feet tall, this towering statue, titled The Rail Splitter, depicts a thin, gawky pre-grow-a-beard Abe Lincoln in his early years. He holds an ax almost in Muffler Man configuration. It was created by artist Carl Rinne in 1968 and unveiled at the fairgrounds in 2021. It appears lumpy due to its design’s artistic style and construction methods. The statue is made of fiberglass, and its exaggerated, uneven surface is intentional, reflecting a rustic, larger-than-life aesthetic rather than striving for smooth realism.
Nearby is the Route 66 Experience, an interactive exhibit celebrating the history and culture of the iconic highway. This area features vintage gas station replicas, neon signs, murals, and displays highlighting key attractions along Route 66, including Springfield’s landmarks. The exhibit immersed us in the nostalgia of America’s “Mother Road” as we recognized all the attractions from our previous trip on Route 66.
Shea’s Service Station
It was getting late, but we made one more stop at Shea’s Gas Station. Originally a working gas station established by Bill Shea in 1946, it has since become a museum showcasing a remarkable collection of vintage gas pumps, oil cans, signs, and memorabilia from iconic brands like Texaco, Phillips 66, and Sinclair. Unfortunately, it appeared to be undergoing a significant renovation because it looked like an abandoned gas station with a couple of broken-down vintage vehicles in front of it.
Evening Rainstorm
We had to drive through a rainstorm on the way back to the camper.
Thursday, 6 July
Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum
The next day, we returned to Springfield to visit the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Museum. Opened in 2005, the museum offers an immersive experience of Lincoln’s life, tracing his journey from humble beginnings in a log cabin to his presidency and pivotal role during the Civil War, all through multimedia displays, dioramas, and historical artifacts.
The exhibits were organized into distinct “journeys.” Journey 1 focused on Lincoln’s early life, from his boyhood in a Kentucky cabin to his 1860 presidential campaign. It featured recreations of his log cabins and displays about the famous Lincoln-Douglas Debate. Journey 2 explored Lincoln’s years in the White House, showcasing military uniforms, Mary Todd Lincoln’s clothing and jewelry, and the personal and political challenges he faced, including the tragic death of his son, Willie. The Treasures Gallery displayed various artifacts from Lincoln, his family, and the Civil War.
One of the highlights was the “Ghosts of the Library” holographic presentation. Using atmospheric lighting, sound effects, and interactive elements, this exhibit delved into eerie tales and the potential lingering spirits of figures from Lincoln’s time, blending history with a spooky, immersive atmosphere.
Unfortunately, the White House Theater was down for repairs during our visit, so we missed the dramatic film that typically explores Lincoln’s leadership during the Civil War and his profound impact on shaping the nation.
Overall, it was an outstanding museum, offering a deeper understanding of Lincoln’s life, challenges, and legacy. We walked away learning so much and with a greater appreciation for this incredible historical figure.
Union Square Park
Across the street from the museum was Union Square Park, which features several notable monuments and sculptures that honor the legacy of Abraham Lincoln and reflect on themes of intolerance and redemption.
One prominent sculpture is “A Greater Task,” a large bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln situated in the front part of the park. This artwork captures Lincoln in a contemplative pose, symbolizing his enduring commitment to the nation’s unity and the monumental challenges he faced during his presidency.
Another significant installation is the “Acts of Intolerance” exhibit, which comprises chimney-like columns adorned with numerous relief images. These images depict scenes that suggest themes of intolerance and others that suggest themes of redemption, encouraging reflection on historical and contemporary social justice issues.
Additionally, the park houses a statue of Abraham Lincoln seated on a bench, offering visitors an intimate and approachable representation of the 16th President. This sculpture invites guests to sit beside Lincoln, providing a unique personal reflection and connection opportunity.
Old State Capital Historic Site
Walking around downtown, we passed the Old State Capitol Historic Site. This beautifully restored Greek Revival building served as Illinois’s fifth state capitol from 1839 to 1876. The building has a limestone exterior, stately porticos, and a central dome.
With its stately columns and symmetrical design, this iconic structure holds a central place in Illinois and U.S. history, particularly for its connections to Abraham Lincoln and other prominent figures. It was the site of Abraham Lincoln’s famous “House Divided” speech in 1858 when accepting the Illinois Republican Party’s nomination for the U.S. Senate. The building also served as the location of his law office and is where his body lay in state after his assassination in 1865. The site also saw activity from other notable 19th-century leaders, including Stephen A. Douglas, who famously debated Lincoln in 1858, and Ulysses S. Grant.
Carefully reconstructed during the 1960s, the Old State Capitol now serves as a museum and educational center, offering guided tours, exhibits, and events that explore Illinois history and the life and legacy of Abraham Lincoln. Unfortunately, the building was closed to visitors while we were there.
Lincoln Home National Historic Site
We then walked down to the Lincoln Home National Historic Site, which preserves the home where Abraham Lincoln lived with his family from 1844 to 1861 before he was elected the 16th President of the United States. The site consists of Lincoln’s restored two-story home. What was especially interesting for us was that they also preserved the surrounding neighborhood to reflect the time. The house, originally built in 1839, is a modest yet charming brick structure with period-appropriate furnishings and decorations that recreate the Lincoln family’s living conditions.
We took a tour of the inside of the home, where they pointed out how the family had modified the house to accommodate their needs. As with most historic homes, you could almost feel the spirit of Abraham Lincoln.
Obed & Isaacs Brewing Company
After we toured the Lincoln Home, we crossed the street to Obed & Isaacs Brewing Company for lunch. Housed in a beautifully restored 19th-century church, the brewery blends rustic charm with modern flair, featuring high ceilings, wooden beams, and stunning stained glass windows. Named after two local historical figures, it offers an inviting atmosphere, a wide selection of craft beers, and a full menu.
We snagged a table on the patio, where Lisa opted for a cheeseburger while I tried the full-sized Horseshoe with Angus beef. A Springfield original, the Horseshoe is an open-faced sandwich served on toasted bread, topped with your choice of meat, smothered in cheese sauce, and piled high with fries. It was delicious. To complement our meals, we shared a flight of beers, including a Ditzy Blonde Ale, American Wheat, Obed’s Pride Amber Ale, and Amarillo by Morning APA.
Bicentennial Plaza
As we were returning to the truck, we walked through Bicentennial Plaza, a charming bricked pedestrian area celebrating Illinois’ bicentennial in 2018. The plaza features a large bronze sculpture, The Spirit of Illinois, symbolizing the state’s enduring strength and unity. Surrounding the plaza are engraved stones and interpretive panels that chronicle significant events and figures from Illinois’ rich history.
Other Historical and Quirky Attractions
We then drove around the town, checking out various historical attractions. One stop was the 1904 Dana-Thomas House State Historic Site, a notable example of Frank Lloyd Wright’s early Prairie-style architecture. Designed for socialite Susan Lawrence Dana, the house features bold geometric shapes, open spaces, and a blend of wood, brick, and glass. Visitors can explore 35 rooms with original furnishings and details like custom furniture and stained-glass windows. We did not tour the inside, but we enjoyed walking around the outside of the building.
Some of the other buildings we saw but were unable to enter included:
The Grand Army of the Republic (GAR) Building was built in 1897 as a meeting hall for Union Civil War veterans. Its architectural style blends Romanesque and Richardsonian Romanesque elements with heavy stonework and a distinctive tower. The building is a historical landmark, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and serves as a symbol of Springfield’s respect for Civil War veterans.
Elijah Iles House is Springfields oldest surviving home, built in 1837. Constructed in the Greek Revival style, it reflects the architectural trends of the early 19th century and the aspirations of its original owner, Elijah Iles, one of Springfield’s founding fathers. Iles was a successful businessman, landowner, and civic leader who played a key role in establishing Springfield as Illinois’ state capital.
Route History, Inc. is housed in a historic Standard Oil gas station, which has been repurposed as a souvenir shop and educational space that sheds light on Black Americans’ experiences, struggles, and triumphs, particularly along the historic Route 66 corridor and beyond. A sign on the door said we had to make an appointment to see inside.
The Virgil Hickox Home, built in 1839 in Springfield, Illinois, is a Greek Revival residence that once belonged to Virgil Hickox, a prominent businessman and Democratic politician during Abraham Lincoln’s era. Known for its symmetrical design and classic columns, the home served as a social and political hub, hosting key figures and events in Illinois’ history.
The Illinois State Capitol was a constant presence on the horizon. This iconic structure, completed in 1888, stands 361 feet tall, making it the tallest non-skyscraper capitol building in the United States. A striking zinc-covered dome highlights its French Renaissance Revival and Italianate architectural styles.
We encountered a large Green Elephant sculpture on a trailer outside The Green Elephant Antique Mall.
We drove by the gated Illinois Governor’s Residence, one of the oldest continuously occupied governor’s mansions in the United States. Built in 1855 in a Greek Revival style, the mansion features 16 rooms. It is set on beautifully landscaped grounds, with gardens that host public events and ceremonies. We saw a bandshell in front of the house, either from a previous event or an upcoming one.
Outside, the Illinois State Museum had a small, lifelike statue of Abraham Lincoln perched atop a 50-foot-tall, slender fiberglass pole with an 11-foot raven at the bottom. The totem is a 1930s reproduction of a “proud raven” totem created in 1883 by a Native American carver in Tongass, Alaska. The carver had never seen anyone of European descent in the flesh. The only image he had to work with was a Lincoln portrait on the wall of a nearby government building, and that’s why a figure of Lincoln sits atop the totem. The original sits in the state archives.
Around town, we saw several large Lincoln hats, which were part of a public art project called “Lincoln: The Springfield Connection”. The project features over 30 large, painted top hats designed by local artists and sponsored by various organizations.
The Lauterbach Giant has been a “muffler man” at Lauterbach Tire & Auto Service since 1967. This large, towering statue stands over 20 feet tall and is shaped like a giant tire man, a playful tribute to the tire business where it resides. The figure is dressed in work clothes and holds an American flag.
Cobblestone Route 66
Just south of town is a preserved section of Route 66 made of cobblestones. This stretch of the famous the highway, also referred to as the Cobblestone Route 66, features original cobblestones laid in the early 20th century. This allows visitors to experience the road as it would have been during the early days of automobile travel, except our suspensions are much better.
Sugar Creek Covered Bridge
We then continued to see the Sugar Creek Covered Bridge, about 6 miles away. This is a historic and charming bridge in the town of Greenview. Constructed in 1881 by bridge builder J.A. Britton, it is one of the few remaining covered bridges in the state. The bridge features a queen post truss design, common in the 19th century, and stands 94 feet long and 15 feet wide. Its wooden structure, with a red-painted exterior, retains the classic, rustic look of covered bridges from that era.
The Wayside Hawthorne
After exploring the Sugar Creek Covered Bridge, we returned to the camper. Along the way, we stopped at The Wayside Hawthorne, about three miles south of the campground. The Historic Wayside Park, located at the intersection of Illinois Routes 97 and 123 near Lake Petersburg, features a significant red hawthorn tree. It is a surviving symbol of initiatives aimed at enhancing the natural beauty of roadsides in Illinois. Such efforts were part of broader conservation and aesthetic movements in the early 20th century, promoting harmony between infrastructure and nature. as a testament to the area’s natural heritage. The park encompasses over two acres and includes a stone council ring and a pollinator waystation planting around the council ring.
Friday, 7 July
The Old Mill
On our way back to Springfield, we stopped at The Old Mill, just outside Lincoln’s New Salem State Historic Site. It replicates the type of gristmills that were essential for early settlers, grinding grain into flour for cooking and baking. It aims to showcase life during Abraham Lincoln’s time as a young man in the area. The mill is functional and provides demonstrations during special events or tours.
Lincoln’s Tomb
Our first stop in Springfield was at The Lincoln Tomb at Oak Ridge Cemetery. The tomb is a massive granite structure that was completed in 1874, almost a decade after his assassination. It features a 117-foot obelisk surrounded by a circular structure and a domed roof. Several statues surround the structure, including a bronze bust of Lincoln near the tomb’s entrance with a shiny nose because visitors have developed the habit of rubbing it for good luck. Outside is a heroic-sized statue of Abraham Lincoln standing tall, dignified, and contemplative. There were also four bronze soldier statues representing one of the major branches of the military during the Civil War: infantry, artillery, cavalry, and navy.
Inside was the burial chamber inside the tomb, where Lincoln and his family are interred. The tomb features several statues, including a large sculpture of Lincoln, and the walls are adorned with inscriptions and plaques that highlight key moments in his life and presidency. The guide discussed the history of Lincoln’s assassination, his funeral procession, and the significance of Oak Ridge Cemetery as a national site. The tour also delves into the story behind the tomb’s construction and its role as a place of reflection for those honoring the 16th president.
Outside was a historical marker for Lincoln’s temporary vault, where his body was initially interred at a temporary site while a permanent tomb was constructed. Over the years, several reburials and changes were made to the location of Lincoln’s remains, including multiple moves due to concerns over theft or desecration.
Military Monuments
We then drove to another section of the cemetery where the war monuments were located. We had driven through the area several days prior but wanted to explore it further. Some notable war monuments we saw included:
The Illinois Korean War Memorial was dedicated on June 16, 1996. The monument’s centerpiece is a 12-foot bronze bell surrounded by four larger-than-life warriors representing the five branches of the armed forces – Army, Navy/Coast Guard, Air Force, and Marines. The names of over 1700 Illinoisans killed in Korea are inscribed along eight walls of the memorial’s granite base.
We had to dodge some water sprinklers to get to the Illinois Vietnam Memorial. Dedicated in May 1988, the Memorial incorporates five black granite walls inscribed with the 2970 names of Illinoisans who died or are still missing. The five black granite walls form interior courtyards, one for each of the five service branches. Each branch of service is designated by its insignia, which is etched on inner fifteen-foot high gray granite walls. Also inscribed on the gray granite walls are those listed as missing-in-action or prisoners-of-war, as well as the names of the most decorated veterans in each branch of service. An eternal flame burns atop the Memorial where the gray granite walls converge. The inscription on the outer walls reads: “TO THOSE WHO DIED HONOR AND ETERNAL REST, TO THOSE STILL IN BONDAGE REMEMBRANCE AND HOPE, AND TO THOSE WHO RETURNED GRATITUDE AND PEACE.”
Dedicated in 2004, the World War II Illinois Veterans Memorial was constructed to honor the 987,000 men and women from the State of Illinois who served our country during World War II. 22,000 Illinois citizens gave their lives in pursuit of liberty. The Memorial design centerpiece is a globe 12 feet in diameter which represents the world in conflict during World War II. It is surrounded by a granite wall engraved with the names and dates of significant battles of the Pacific and European theaters of war. A central plaza of personalized engraved bricks completed the design.
The Purple Heart Monument includes an eight-foot piece of black granite with an engraving of a Purple Heart. The other side of the stone features a quote from William Shakespeare’s Henry V: “We few, we happy few, we band of brothers; For he today that sheds his blood with me shall be my brother.” Two smaller black granite stones to the left and right of the centerpiece of the Memorial feature the engravings of four soldiers.
The Lincoln-Herndon Law Offices State Historic Site
We then visited The Lincoln-Herndon Law Offices State Historic Site, housed in the only remaining building where Abraham Lincoln maintained a law office. Constructed in 1840-41, the building features a Greek Revival architectural style and was originally part of the Tinsley Block, a commercial structure built by Seth M. Tinsley. Lincoln practiced law in this building from 1843 to about 1852, initially with partner Stephen T. Logan and later with William H. Herndon.
The rooms representing the federal court on the second floor and the law offices on the third floor were closed for renovations, but there was a replica of the law office on the first floor that displayed a likeness of his office, which was notable for its plainness and disorder, There was also a replica 1840s post office.
Several informational kiosks and statues were outside, including the Lincoln family statue, which was cute. Across the street was the Old State Capitol Building.
History Comes Alive
We then drove down to the Lincoln Home National Historic Site and attended a “History Comes Alive” presentation sponsored by the National Park Service. Here, we were given a presentation on how corn cakes and chicken fricassee would have been prepared in Lincoln’s time. Of course, we had an opportunity to taste it afterward. It was a fun, immersive experience.
State Capital Building
We then parked at the Capitol Complex Visitor Center. It had the normal visitor information brochures and information, as well as a couple of large Lincoln hats artistically painted.
It was a short walk to the capitol building. Inside, under the rotunda, was a small information desk where we checked in for free tours of the capitol building. We were the only ones on the tour and were taken to the House and Senate galleries, the Governor’s reception area, the Hall of Governors, and the Old Supreme Courtroom. Besides showing us all the beautiful architecture, artwork, and paintings in the building, she was full of trivia about the various aspects of the building which made the tour incredibly interesting.
Outside, we stopped to admire the Illinois Law Enforcement Officers Memorial, which features a bronze statue of a police officer protecting a child, surrounded by walls engraved with names of fallen officers. It honors their bravery and sacrifice in service to the community. We also stopped at the Illinois Fallen Firefighters Memorial which features a sculpture of three firefighters in action, one rescuing a child, alongside plaques and a ceremonial bell tower.
Motorheads Bar and Grill
Afterward, we headed to Route 66 Motorheads Bar and Grill, a unique dining and entertainment destination along the historic Route 66 that first opened its doors in 2018. The venue is a feast for the eyes, decked out in Route 66 and automotive-themed decor. Retro signage, vintage gas pumps, classic car displays, and motorcycles are scattered throughout, creating an ambiance that transports visitors to the golden age of road trips.
The restaurant offers a menu of classic American comfort food, and we were eager to sample it. I ordered a juicy burger paired with a refreshing Gold Top Reisch beer, a local favorite. Lisa opted for the Turkey Avocado Wrap, perfectly complemented by an RPM Redline beer. We both added tater tots to our meals.
After enjoying our food, we explored the attached museum, which houses an impressive collection of automotive memorabilia and Route 66 artifacts. The exhibits included vintage cars, motorcycles, neon signs, and other nostalgic treasures that tell the story of America’s Mother Road. Every corner seemed to hold something new to discover.
We also strolled through the large outdoor patio and entertainment space, ideal for events and live music. After walking the grounds and browsing the displays, we realized we had only scratched the surface of what Motorheads has to offer. It’s the kind of place that invites you to come back and explore even more.
Saturday, 8 July
In the morning, we packed up and drove the 300 miles back to Kansas City using I-72, MO-36, and I-35.