Thursday, 29 June
The Journey from Saylorville Lake, IA, to Lowden State Park, IL
Today’s drive was 261 miles on mostly interstate. It rained most of the way and sometimes severely. We took I-80 East to I-88 East until we reached Dixon, IL. From Dixon, we followed the Rock River north on IL-2 to Oregon. Lowden State Park was just two miles further. We skirted a large storm to our south during our drive, but we only got some intermittent light rain.
Lowden State Park
Lowden State Park covers 207 acres near Oregon, Illinois, along the Rock River. This was our second visit to the park.
The campground is managed by two hosts who work from their trailers. A sign in front of their trailer identifies which host is on duty. After the host checked us in, we took our trailer to a spigot designated by the host to fill our fresh water tanks. We had to park in the street to fill our 40-gallon tank, which took about 20 minutes.
Our site was a narrow back-in between two trees, but it was very close to the bathrooms. Since we would be at the site for a week and didn’t have a way to dump our tanks during that time, we decided to use the bathrooms more often than usual. The site was quite nice, providing a good balance between convenience and privacy.
Jay’s Drive-In
After setting up camp, we drove into Oregon and had dinner at Jay’s Drive-In. This nostalgic eatery transports visitors back to the 1950s and 60s. Initially established in the 1960s as a Dog N’ Suds Drive-In, it now features a themed dining room adorned with memorabilia from that era. Patrons can dine inside, enjoy the outdoor patio, or experience traditional car hop service, where friendly staff deliver orders directly to their vehicles.
The menu boasts a variety of American classics, including burgers, hot dogs, and sandwiches. Jay’s offers a selection of hard scoop ice cream flavors, milkshakes, banana splits, and hot fudge sundaes for dessert.
I got the messy Jay’s Deluxe Double Bacon Cheeseburger with fries, and Lisa got some chicken fingers.
Oregon Park East
We stopped at Oregon Park East on the way back to the campground. The park overlooks Rock River, and the low-head dam running across it is designed to maintain a consistent water level and flow.
Friday, 30 June
Black Hawk
Today, we headed north to Rockford to visit some attractions. As we left Oregon, going north on IL-2, we passed the 48-foot-tall “Black Hawk” Statue atop a 125-foot bluff that overlooked the Rock River from Lowden State Park. Designed by Lorado Taft in 1910-1911, the statue is made of hollow concrete reinforced with steel and mixed with pink granite. It represents a generic Native American figure inspired by the Sauk leader Black Hawk, symbolizing peace, unity, and the area’s rich Indigenous history. Named after Black Hawk, who resisted U.S. government efforts to displace his people, it serves as a historical landmark and a place of reflection.
Largest Tree in Illinois
Our first stop was at the Byron Forest Preserve District’s Bald Hill Prairie Preserve, home to the largest tree of any species in Illinois. Following Google Maps, we arrived at a small parking lot near the trailhead. A simple sign with an arrow and the words “Big Tree” directed us down a mowed path through a sprawling grassy field. The hilly trail stretched about half a mile, and the tree remained hidden from view until we crested a hill and saw it below, standing alone in quiet grandeur.
The Eastern Cottonwood rose at the base of a tall hill, its immense size becoming more apparent when compared to the tiny picnic table and benches nestled beneath its expansive canopy. Measuring over 28 feet in circumference, with a diameter exceeding 9 feet and a towering height of 122 feet, the tree was a true giant. Upon closer inspection, parts of the trunk appeared heavily rotted, and its weathered bark was alive with various insects. Despite its condition, the tree stood resilient—a testament to its remarkable age, estimated to have begun growing in the 1830s. Its survival was credited to the protective hills that shielded it from lightning strikes and the fierce winds that frequently fell other Eastern Cottonwoods.
Seeing this majestic tree in person was an unforgettable experience.
Rockford
After we left the tree, we followed the Rock River up US 20 into Rockford. Rockford is the second largest city in Illinois outside the Chicago metro area, and has a history of being primarily a manufacturing community. We saw a lot of urban blight and several abandoned factories reflecting the impact of the 1980s Great Recession and the deindustrialization of the Rust Belt. In 2013, Forbes even labeled it one of the most miserable places in the U.S.
Anderson Japenese Gardens
Our first stop was The Anderson Japanese Gardens near the city’s center by the Rock River. The gardens were established in 1978 by John R. Anderson and landscape architect Hoichi Kurisu in the swampy backyard of the Anderson’s home. They were inspired by Anderson’s trips to Japan, and particularly his visit to the Portland Japanese Garden in Washington Park, Portland, Oregon, which Kurisu also designed. 1998 Mr. and Mrs. Anderson donated the gardens to a nonprofit organization.
We unknowingly parked in the farthest parking lot and had to walk through most of the gardens to get to the visitor center to purchase our tickets. We were given a military discount and paid $10 each. I saw a sign stating that a tour was about to start, so we bought two tour tickets costing us another $2 each. We were the only people who had signed up, so we went on a private tour through the gardens.
Our tour guide led us through the garden, explaining the significance of the various features as we walked along the winding pathways. The garden is carefully laid out to guide visitors through different sections, each designed to evoke a particular feeling or reflection. The Japanese-style landscape is considered a “pond strolling” garden with several waterfalls, ponds, streams, rock formations, winding paths, and a sukiyaki-style tea house and guest house. The “Garden of Reflection” is a contemporary Japanese-inspired garden with bronze angel sculptures by Carl Milles. We learned the sculptures were controversial since this was a Japanese garden. The pond had giant, colorful fish. Along the paths, we encountered meticulously placed rock arrangements and bonsai trees. Along these pathways, stone lanterns are placed at intervals, providing a sense of continuity and guiding visitors through the garden, even after dark. As we strolled through, we passed several notable landmarks, including a traditional Japanese tea house, a tea garden, a zen garden, and a cultural pavilion. Our tour guide pointed out the various Japanese cultural influences throughout which was very fascinating.
After the tour, we walked through the gift shop and bought some sorbet which we ate on the patio overlooking the garden.
Historic Auto Attractions
We then drove out to Historic Auto Attractions, located just north of Rockford in Roscoe, Illinois. We ate lunch just outside the museum on a picnic table they had there before going inside.
This captivating museum is far more than its name suggests, offering an immersive journey through history with an eclectic collection of artifacts and vehicles housed in its impressive 80,000-square-foot warehouse space It The museum features a remarkable variety of exhibits, each with its own distinct theme. Some highlights include:
The Presidential and World Leader Limousines exhibit showcases the world’s most extensive collection of vehicles used by heads of state, offering a glimpse into the history and grandeur of political transportation. Each limousine is accompanied by detailed information about its historical significance and the leaders who used it.
The Gangster Era Vehicles and Memorabilia display included John Dillinger’s 1932 Studebaker used in an Indiana bank robbery, Bonnie & Clyde’s actual death hats worn the day they were killed, and a wide range of other information and other artifacts and memorabilia, including weapons, clothing, and personal items about the rise and fall of gangsters.
Movie star memorabilia included Marilyn Monroe artifacts, including her signature white dress, and Jane Russell’s bustier. There were additional displays for James Dean and Buddy Holly.
The Elvis Presley Display featured The King’s personal 1972 Lincoln Mark IV, which is on display along with various outfits and personal items, including artifacts and memorabilia, costumes, personal items, and rare photographs. Mounted on the wall was a copy of Elvis’ actual will.
The TV Land Cars section is a nostalgic treat, with iconic vehicles from popular TV shows and movies, including the Batmobile from “Batman,” the Ecto-1 from “Ghostbusters,” and the DeLorean from “Back to the Future.” There was also the Family Truckster from the film “Family Vacation,” the 1950 Mercury pickup from the TV show Sanford & Son, and the 1964 Ford Galaxie from The Andy Griffith Show, plus much more.
Each car is presented in a themed setting, making it feel like stepping onto the set of the shows and films.
The Old West Area offers a glimpse into America’s frontier days with vintage-style stagecoaches, a fully reconstructed log cabin, and various artifacts from the turn of the century, bringing the Wild West to life, including vintage badges, posters, costumes worn by famous actors, saddles, set props from the hit TV show Gunsmoke and Bonanza, various rifles and pistols owned by the likes of Annie Oakley, “Buffalo Bill” Cody, Jesse James, and Frank James. There was also a collection of carriages and buggys dating back to the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century..
The John F. Kennedy and Kennedy Family Artifacts exhibit is one of the most extensive in the country. It featured many personal items and documents belonging to JFK and his family, including his presidential suits, Secret Service car, and handwritten letters. There were a lot of artifacts about his assassination, including a mockup of the view that Lee Harvey Oswald had of the motorcade using an actual window from the book depository. There was also a display of Jacqueline Kennedy dresses and outfits, as well as covers of Life Magazine featuring her. Some cars on display include a John F. Kennedy Convertible, a Lee Harvey Oswald Getaway Car, a John F. Kennedy Police Car, and a John F. Kennedy 1962 Lincoln.
The Abraham Lincoln exhibit had numerous artifacts, memorabilia, and personal items, including the presidential chair, a personal razor, death bed relics, and even Mary Todd Lincoln’s mourning veil and fan.
The Animal Kingdom Area features a room full of stuffed animals in a large diorama that features majestic lions and tigers to playful monkeys, and mischievous meerkats. It even had a large elephant.
An Egyptian Artifacts room that combined movie props, such as those from the 1963 film “Cleopatra” starring Elizabeth Taylor and a chariot used in the 1959 film “Ben Hur,” with authentic, rare artifacts.
The Miss Belvedere exhibit had the 1957 Plymouth Belvedere buried and unearthed 50 years later in the Tulsa, Oklahoma, courthouse lawn as a time capsule.
There was a display of unique cars, including the world record holder for the lowest car. Other fascinating vehicles include an all-chrome bumper car, a car made entirely out of wood, a Daedalus Solar Powered Car, a John Deere High-Performance Lawn Mower, a Madson Cross Fire Race Mower, a Wheelbarrow Racer, and a car covered in silver dollars.
A war exhibit room that included various weaponry, tools, uniforms, equipment, and technology used by soldiers on the battlefield, including those used by the Nazis.
Another nearby display has many notable vehicles and artifacts of World Leaders, including Eva Peron, King George VI, Mikhail Gorbachev, Joseph Stalin, Nikita Khrushchev, Hirohito, and more. Information displays provided information about each of these leaders.
Another section had a lot of White House furniture and artifacts that were once used in the White House by the Lincoln, Roosevelt, and Kennedy administrations. In addition to presidential furniture, the exhibit included pieces used by various other dignitaries and public figures.
Other fascinating exhibits include the Hall of Christ, featuring religious artifacts, including some actual stones that were laid on Jesus’ tomb; a 9/11 Memorial Room, which honors the victims and heroes of the tragedy; an Antique Clocks Room with timepieces from across the centuries; and a NASA Exhibit with space exploration memorabilia.
It was a real treat to talk with the Historian Tony, who wanders around the museum, sharing the deeper story of each item and how they were obtained and authenticated. We also met the owner, Wayne Lensing, in the gift shop, who loved talking with us and finding out what we enjoyed the most.
We spent several hours exploring the exhibits, marveling at the sheer scope and variety of the collection. It was the kind of place where one visit didn’t feel like enough; there was so much more to see and learn. Historic Auto Attractions is a hidden gem for history buffs, car enthusiasts, and anyone fascinated by the stories behind the objects that have shaped our world.
Rockford City Market
We then drove south into Rockford to visit the Rockford Farmers Market, located along the river at Water Street. We found a free parking lot just a block away from the market. Although the market was not as large as advertised, it still had a charming atmosphere. There were about a dozen food trucks, a dozen vendor tents, and two music areas with tables and chairs. Surprisingly, there were not many fruit and vegetable vendors.
We started our adventure by grabbing a few beers from Prairie Street Brewing Company and sitting in a tented area to enjoy a band playing some 70s favorites. The music and beer were so good that we had a second round before walking through the rest of the market.
We then strolled along the river at the adjacent Joe Marino Park, named after a local promoter of public fireworks aptly called “Mr. 4th of July.”
I got a Chicago-style hot dog from a vendor named “Downtown Fancy Franks.” It was overloaded with fixings, making it delightfully messy. Lisa couldn’t decide on anything, so she opted to wait until we were back at the camper. We sat in the second music area, where a solo musician played psychedelic riffs on his electric guitar. It was okay, but we preferred the first band, so we moved back to the other entertainment area, only to find they were playing their last song when we arrived.
Deciding to head back to our camper, we bought some dog treats for our children’s dog, who was arriving the next day, and some charity popcorn from a “Helping Youth” organization to take with us.
Saturday, 1 July
The following morning, our son, his fiancée, and their dog joined us at the campsite. The weather forecast predicted rain for most of the day and the following day, but we lucked out as it stayed south of us.
After they set up their tent, we relaxed around the camp, catching up and enjoying each other’s company. Lisa treated us to a delicious dinner of grilled hamburgers, potato salad, beans, and s’mores for dessert.
Sunday, 2 July
Grand Detour Canoe Trip
It rained overnight, but it had stopped by morning. We had a canoe trip scheduled through White Pelican Canoe & Kayak Rental called the Grand Detour. The trip would take us from a boat launch near the dam in Oregon to the Grand Detour, a sharp bend in the river where it flows north instead of continuing its southwestern course. This bend was once a prominent site for fur trading posts used by early French traders and Native American tribes, including the Winnebago and Potawatomi.
Our launch was scheduled for 10 a.m. I dropped my family near the dam in Oregon at 9:30 a.m., then drove our truck to the disembarkation point at Grand Detour. Though they provided a shuttle service, they don’t allow dogs in the shuttle, so we used our vehicle to transport the dog back from the disembarkation point. Rain fell hard during my drive, raising concerns about the weather for the trip. After parking at Grand Detour, I took the shuttle back to the launch site.
By the time we got on the water, the rain had stopped, leaving the sky overcast. The Rock River was broad and calm, with a gentle 3-5 mph current. The journey took a little over five hours, and we paddled about 30% of the time. We stopped for an hour at Castle Rock State Park, named for a striking sandstone bluff adjacent to the river.
The trip’s highlights included the sandstone bluffs that framed the river, the sight of herons and swallow mud nests on the rocks, and a memorable encounter with a flock of white pelicans.
Jay’s Drive-In
When we got back to Oregon, we stopped at Jay’s Drive-In for some ice cream before Lisa and I headed back to the campground, and our son and fiance headed back home.
Monday, 3 July
Trip into Chicago
The next day, we rejoined my son and his fiancée at More Brewing Company in Huntley, just west of Chicago. Known for its exceptional barrel-aged beer program, the brewery’s Henna Series is the crown jewel. This series features a range of rich imperial stouts aged in bourbon barrels and infused with creative flavor combinations. These beers often include decadent additions like vanilla, cacao nibs, coffee, and fruits, resulting in bold, dessert-like profiles.
Afterward, we drove to the wedding venue before returning to the camper.
Tuesday, 4 July
Mount Morris 4th of July Parade
I enjoy the 4th of July parades, not the fireworks, the most. Today, we found two parades that we could visit in the area.
The first stop was in the charming village of Mount Morris, home to approximately 3,000 residents. Once the site of Mount Morris College, many of the historic college buildings have since been repurposed for use by local businesses. The village retains its historic charm, particularly in the town square, which features landmarks like Old Sandstone, the Memorial Fountain, and the Warren G. Reckmeyer Bandshell.
Mount Morris hosts the “Let Freedom Ring Festival” every 4th of July, a lively event celebrating its unique designation as the home of the official Freedom Bell of Illinois. The festival features a small carnival area with bounce houses, various food vendors, and entertainment at the bandshell. Local musicians perform alongside a playful reenactment in which actors portray historical figures.
A festival highlight occurs at 1 p.m. when attendees are invited to pull a long rope to ring the village’s cherished Freedom Bell. This bell, designated the “Official Freedom Bell of Illinois” by the state legislature in 1991, is rung simultaneously with the Liberty Bell in Philadelphia.
The festivities continue with a parade that circles the village, attracting a well-attended and enthusiastic crowd. While the festival exudes a quaint small-town atmosphere, it is imbued with an unmistakable sense of pride and community spirit.
Rockford 4th of July Parade
Afterward, we headed to Rockford to experience their vibrant 4th of July parade. Arriving a couple of hours early, we parked near the River Market, giving us plenty of time to find a good spot to watch the parade. Following the growing crowds, we found the parade route and secured a spot near a small band playing music. We also were not far from some food trucks, and we got a couple of smoothies while waiting for the parade to begin.
The festivities kicked off with a roar of engines as the Motorcycle Parade rolled through at 4:40 p.m., followed by the Screw City Jeep Parade at 4:50 p.m. Both groups decorated their vehicles with flags, inflatable ducks, and other characters. The main parade began at 5:00 p.m., featuring over 60 participants. The procession included colorful floats, local politicians greeting the crowd, police and firemen marching, spirited marching bands, local businesses, and various community organizations advertising their services.
The atmosphere was electric, with families cheering, children waving flags, and everyone soaking in the celebratory energy. It was a fantastic way to celebrate Independence Day and a memorable evening filled with small-town charm and patriotic pride.
We did not stay for the fireworks and returned to the camper for the evening, very satisfied with the day’s activities.
Wednesday, 5 July
We took off in the morning and headed toward Springfield, IL.