Wednesday, February 19
Journey from Kansas City to Cape Girardeau
When we woke up, temperatures had plunged to new record lows, with the mercury dipping into the single digits. The roads were coated in ice and snow from a snowstorm that had just passed through earlier that morning. We had only accumulated 1 to 3 inches, but the local news reported over half a dozen accidents along our route, even before we left Kansas City. We had several possible routes, and surprisingly, the route east through St. Louis had been impacted by the storm much less than our planned route south, so we decided to take it. I was confident (or at least, I tried to be) that once the snowplows had cleared the roads and rush hour traffic died down, it would be safe to begin our journey.
The last accident was cleared around 10:30 a.m., so we went to the camper to begin our trip. It was bitterly cold! The trailer storage lot was unplowed and slippery when we arrived, but we connected the trailer despite a few near slips. I attempted to secure the trailer cable with zip ties, but they snapped in the cold. Instead, I used masking tape to fashion a makeshift rope and tied it in place. I was concerned that bending the trailer cable too much might cause it to break. Thankfully, we managed to get everything connected and checked quickly despite the frigid conditions, and we finally hit the road around 11:30.
The roads were well-plowed and mostly dry as long as I avoided the shoulders. Traffic was lighter than expected, and while we saw a few crashed vehicles along the way, the predominant issue seemed to be stalled cars. About an hour outside Kansas City, we stopped at a Love’s Travel Stop to check on the camper and then made a gas stop around 5 p.m.
Although we originally planned to camp, the extreme cold made it unfeasible, so we stayed in a hotel instead. We stopped for the night around 6:30 p.m. at the Pear Tree Inn in Cape Girardeau. I found the hotel on hoteltruckparking.com and called ahead to confirm they had room to park our camper.
Next door was an Outback Steakhouse next door where we ate dinner before going to bed.
Thursday, February 20
Back home, the temperature set a new record low and a record low high for the day. The thermometer was still hovering at just 20 degrees, and the roads were lined with snow and ice as we headed south that morning. Our route took us through Tupelo, MS, and despite our eagerness to escape the snow belt as quickly as possible, we decided to stop at Elvis Presley’s birthplace, even though it was still well below freezing outside.
Elvis Presley’s Birthplace
After parking the camper, we purchased $20 admission tickets. Our first stop was the two-room “shotgun” house where Elvis lived until he was 13 before moving to Memphis. One room was the bedroom, while the other was the kitchen. A friendly docent was inside, and she shared the history of the house with us. While none of the furnishings were original, they had been verified for likeness and placement by a relative of Elvis. The house also featured a front porch swing, which didn’t exist during Elvis’ time. The walls had wallpaper, but they would have been covered in newspapers when Elvis lived there. The house remained in its original location, though.
Next, we visited the church that Elvis’ family attended, which was credited with nurturing his love for gospel music. The church had been relocated to its current site. Inside, a docent explained Elvis’ connection to the church, and we were then treated to a presentation of a typical church service from that era. As we sat in the pews, two movie screens lowered on either side of us, displaying a live church audience dressed in period clothing. A third screen dropped at the front, showing the pastor delivering the sermon. Various singers performed throughout the service, and the pastor occasionally played guitar. While the service was an abbreviated version, it effectively demonstrated how the church likely influenced Elvis’ musical style. We were reminded that all four Grammy Awards Elvis received were for gospel music.
Outside, we explored several signs, statues, and memorials and then visited the gift shop. The memorial chapel and movie theater were both closed for repairs. We climbed a long flight of stairs to reach two statues of Elvis on an overlook: one life-size statue of him at age 13 and another larger-than-life statue of him as an adult. After walking around the reflection pond, we headed back to the truck.
Johnnie’s Drive-In
Just under a mile away, we stopped at Johnnie’s Drive-In, which Elvis reportedly frequented on his way home from school. The restaurant was famous for its “dough burger,” a hamburger made with a mixture of ingredients—flour included—to extend the meat and make it more affordable. We were seated in the “Elvis Booth,” supposedly his favorite. Pictures and an authentication letter above the booth added credibility to the claim. We ordered a dough burger, some tater tots, and Diet Coke. The dough burgers were surprisingly tasty.
Birmingham, AL
After leaving Tupelo, we continued our journey toward Birmingham.
That evening, just after 6 p.m., we checked into the Sleep Inn Pelham Oak Mountain, located south of the city. Our goal was to get through Birmingham ahead of the morning traffic. Unfortunately, despite positive reviews, the hotel did not meet our expectations, particularly when it came to cleanliness.
For dinner, we stopped at Dos Lobos Mexican Restaurant nearby, where we enjoyed a tasty meal and a few refreshing happy-hour margaritas.
Friday, February 21
It was below freezing when we took off around 8:30, but we finally appeared below the snow belt. We stopped at the Oasis Travel Center less than an hour from our campground, hoping to use their truck wash to clean the salt off our trailer. However, the whole center was mainly closed except for the inside store and a couple of gas pumps. The cashier inside said they had recently changed ownership.
Avalon Landing RV Park
We arrived at Avalon Landing RV Park around 2 p.m., three days ahead of the caravan’s official start on Monday, February 24. Since I had already prepaid for Sunday, I needed to cover an additional two nights.
Nestled along Indian Bayou—an inlet of Escambia Bay—this campground is just five miles east of Pensacola in Milton, Florida. It features 37 RV sites, offering waterfront, pull-thru, and off-water options, all equipped with full hook-ups (50/30/20 amp electric, water, and sewer). Guests can also enjoy amenities like a swimming pool, clubhouse, free Wi-Fi, and cable TV. The park is split into two sections on either side of the bayou, connected by a bridge and a sidewalk.
Check-in was smooth and welcoming. The friendly front office staff provided us with a campground map, local area guide, and a list of nearby events. They directed us to the opposite side of the bayou, where a golf cart met us and guided us to our site.
Our site backed up to the bayou, offering a beautiful waterfront view. The 40-foot gravel pad, neatly framed by a concrete border, was level and well-maintained. A narrow concrete patio sat to one side, providing a small outdoor space.
The sunny weather, with temperatures in the 50s, was a welcome change—finally allowing us to spend time outside prepping our camper without freezing. A few items, like dish soap and canned vegetables, had frozen during our travels, so we set them out in the sun to thaw.
Saturday, February 22
Palafox Farmers Market
After a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs cooked on our new electric skillet, we set out for the Palafox Farmers Market in downtown Pensacola. This market was a vibrant, bustling event with around 60 vendors offering various goods. While there wasn’t an abundance of fresh produce, the market was filled with an eclectic mix of handmade crafts, baked goods, and artisanal treats.
Mardi Gras was just a couple of weeks away, and it was clear that the holiday held significant importance in this area. Many vendors had embraced the festive spirit, offering various food items and crafts, all adorned with the colorful Mardi Gras theme. Purple, green, and gold were everywhere, from beads and masks to decorations and pastries. It felt like the entire market was gearing up for the upcoming celebrations.
We took our time strolling through the aisles, enjoying the lively atmosphere, and checking out all the unique offerings. We talked with several vendors who were friendly and eager to share the stories behind their creations. We couldn’t resist picking up a couple of “Morse code” bracelets as gifts, each with a hidden message. We also bought a sweet roll to enjoy later, which was decorated in Mardi Gras colors.
When we returned to the camper, we spent the rest of the day doing more chores and de-winterizing the trailer.
Sunday, February 23
The forecast called for rain throughout the day, with a high in the mid-50s. Since we would not get much done on the camper, we decided to take a drive. When we left around 9 a.m., there was only light rain, but we knew it would increase throughout the day.
Navarre Beach
We started our drive by heading to Navarre Beach. Upon crossing to Santa Rosa Island, we parked at a public beach access boardwalk and walked over to the beach. A light mist was falling and the beach was mostly empty save for a heron and a few other birds scavenging for food along the water’s edge. We did see a few other footprints in the sand, including some bare feet. We enjoyed the walk along the beach, listening to the waves gently rolling in, but it soon got chilly, so we moved on.
Gulf Islands National Seashore
We continued driving along the shore of Santa Rosa Island and through a section of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. This was only a small section of the 160-mile-long Gulf Islands National Seashore, which includes mainland areas and seven islands. The protected area features beautiful white quartz sand beaches free of the blight of urbanization, where wild animals could nest and vegetation grow. Hurricane Sally heavily impacted the area in September 2020, flattening dunes and isolating small islands at the island’s tip.
Pensacola Beach
We briefly stopped at the main parking area at Pensacola Beach, where only a few people were on the beach, though several lifeguard trucks were lined up, giving the impression of a busier day. We posed by the statue of Yancy Spencer III, known as “The Duke of the Gulf Coast.” He was a famous surfer who opened a popular surf shop in the area as a teenager and tragically passed away at 60 while surfing in Malibu.
Afterward, we snapped a photo of the Pensacola water tower, which looks like a giant beach ball, and headed toward Fort Pickens.
Fort Pickens
Fort Pickens was at the end of Santa Rosa Island in another section of the Gulf Island National Seashore. Slaves constructed this historic military fort between 1829 and 1834. It played a key role during the Civil War, remaining under Union control despite Confederate efforts. It continued serving military purposes through the Spanish-American War and both World Wars, with additional gun batteries added in the early 1900s.
Despite the rain intensifying into a heavy mist, we explored the fort’s historic structures, which included arched tunnels and a maze of passages leading to former gun locations. A few large cannons were still mounted on the walls. Before leaving, we enjoyed hot cocoa from a snack bar at a previous Mine Storage building and drove around to see the surrounding batteries.
Perdido Key
We drove US-89 across Pensacola Bay and took Florida State Road 292 (Sorrento Road) to Perdido Key. Hugging the coastline, we admired the beach homes and condos, most listed for sale or rent. Perdido Key State Park, located in the center of the key, offered a peaceful break from the urban sprawl, with pristine beaches and rolling dunes covered in sea oats.
Alabama
Crossing into Alabama on CR182, we continued along the coast, watching the shoreline transition from beach homes to even larger condominiums as we approached Gulf Shores. We then turned north at CR135 through Gulf State Park and headed to Barber Marina.
Country Girl Skinny Dipping (Barber Marina)
Our next stop was to see the quirky fiberglass sculpture called Girl Skinny Dipping by artist Mark Cline. Also known as the “Lady of the Bay” or “Lady of the Marina,” the sculpture featured a 100-foot woman floating in the water. It was created in 2012 and commissioned by local billionaire George Barber. As we approached the marina at the end of a dead-end road in a heavily wooded area, we were greeted by some fiberglass dinosaur sculptures alongside the road, a giant metal spider, and an authentic Italian Renaissance fountain at its entrance.
We had trouble finding the sculpture when we arrived at the marina because a hoist partially hid it. After driving around the marina, we eventually spotted it sitting at the end of the docks, looking somewhat out of place, surrounded by luxury yachts. We parked near the marina offices, which were surrounded by various aquatic metal sculptures, and walked out onto the docks to get a closer look. We walked out on the docks, lined with luxury yachts, for a closer look at the piece. Known as the “Lady of the Bay” or “Lady of the Marina,” the sculpture is so tall that if she were to stand, she would surpass the height of the Statue of Liberty.
The sculpture was severely damaged during Hurricane Sally and had to be restored. There are now two sculptures: one at Barber Marina near Elberta and another at Barber Motorsports Park in Leeds/Birmingham.
As the rain grew heavier, we decided to return to the campground for dinner, calling it an evening.
Monday, February 24
Today was Day 1 of our caravan. I did some camper maintenance in the morning and then we had an Orientation at 1 p.m. next to the Tail Gunners camper. This was followed by a Trip Meeting, during which the Wagonmaster walked us through the activities for the next three days.
At 5:30, the caravan bought us dinner at a local restaurant called Aces Hangar Southern Grill and Bar. Outside was a UH-1 Huey helicopter on a pole. Inside, the restaurant had aviation-inspired decor with vintage airplane models, flight memorabilia, and photographs of aircraft hanging on the walls. The industrial-style lighting fixtures and rustic accents contribute to the hangar-like feel, blending a cozy atmosphere with a touch of aviation history. The caravan had a reserved section with several tables pushed together. I enjoyed talking with several caravan members, including an owner of the caravan company.
Tuesday, February 25
We left the campground around 8 a.m. and headed to the National Naval Aviation Museum, located at Naval Air Station Pensacola.
Pensacola Lighthouse and Museum
Before meeting our caravan group for a guided tour of the National Naval Aviation Museum, we visited the Pensacola Lighthouse and Museum, which is also located at the Naval Air Station. The lighthouse was constructed in 1859 and was vital in guiding ships safely into Pensacola Bay for many years. It also has a fascinating history, surviving the Civil War and later being used as a military lookout during World War II.
We got to the lighthouse about 10 minutes before it opened, so we walked along an “Archeology Trail” that had several signs along a sidewalk near the lighthouse providing information about the area’s history.
After we bought tickets, I immediately walked over to the lighthouse to climb the 177 steps to the top. Because Lisa could not climb the stairs, she explored the museum below. At the top, I was rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Pensacola Beach, Fort Pickens, Santa Rosa Island, the Gulf of Mexico, and the nearby military installation.
The museum at the base of the lighthouse featured various exhibits related to the lighthouse’s history, local maritime culture, and the U.S. Navy. We explored artifacts, photos, and interactive displays highlighting the lighthouse’s role in helping ships navigate the dangerous waters of the Gulf of Mexico. There were also exhibits dedicated to the people who worked at the lighthouse and the surrounding area’s history, providing a deeper understanding of the region’s coastal heritage.
National Naval Air Museum
Afterward, we drove to the National Naval Air Museum. The museum showcases the U.S. Navy’s naval aviation history, with over 150 restored aircraft on display, ranging from early military planes to modern-day jets. We marveled at the wide variety of aircraft, from the legendary Blue Angels’ jets to historic World War II planes. The exhibits were well-curated, with informative plaques, videos, and interactive displays that gave us a deeper understanding of aviation’s role in the Navy’s history. At 11:30, we were given a guided tour by a retired Navy Pilot, who walked us around the museum and highlighted the notable historical exhibits and those he had personal history with. We enjoyed the personal stories.
After the tour, we refueled Cubi Bar Café, which displayed squadron memorabilia from the closed NAS Cubi Point Officers’ Club. We split a Cubi Quesidilla and a Cubi Chili Dog.
Afterward, we walked around the museum on our own until we met with the group at 3:30 to watch a 28-minute film in the IMAX theater titled “Aircraft Carrier.” The film gave us a good overview of what being a naval pilot on an aircraft carrier was like.
Joe Patti’s Seafood
We stopped at Joe Patti’s Seafood on our way back to the camper. This legendary seafood market is known for its fresh, high-quality seafood and bustling atmosphere. Established in the 1930s by Joe and Anna Patti, it has become a must-visit destination for locals and tourists.
The market offers a vast selection of fresh fish, shrimp, oysters, crab, lobster, and other seafood, much of it sourced directly from the Gulf of Mexico. It also sold gourmet cheeses, wine, freshly prepared sushi, and various specialty items. When we passed a gelato counter, the staff members stated that we could have a small cup of gelato for free since we were part of a tour.
Wednesday, February 26
Graffiti Bridge
We left the campground at 9 a.m., following the scenic US-90 along the coastline of Escambia Bay into Pensacola. Our first stop was Graffiti Bridge, a well-known landmark and an ever-changing canvas for street art and public expression. Located on North 17th Avenue, this century-old railroad bridge has evolved into an iconic spot where locals and visitors paint murals, messages, and graffiti. The artwork changes daily, making it a dynamic and ever-evolving piece of Pensacola’s culture.
Originally built in the early 1900s, the bridge is still an active railway, with trains occasionally passing overhead. Over time, it has transformed from a simple underpass into a community-driven art space, featuring everything from birthday messages and tributes to political statements and abstract designs. However, its low clearance has led to numerous vehicle collisions, as taller trucks often misjudge the height.
Next to the bridge, a boardwalk led us past a pond and down to the coast. A chain-link fence surrounding the pond held locks of love, where couples attached padlocks to symbolize their unbreakable commitment. This romantic tradition, popular worldwide, adds to the bridge’s charm. We also spotted several turtles basking nearby.
Downtown Pensacola
We were scheduled to meet our caravan group at 10 a.m. for a guided tour of Historic Pensacola Village in downtown Pensacola. Anticipating parking challenges, I had reserved a premium parking space but luckily found a free spot, allowing me to cancel my reservation without penalty. We had to walk about four blocks to get to the meeting location, and along the way, we passed several parks and some public art.
Historic Pensacola Village
Historic Pensacola Village is a beautifully preserved collection of restored homes, museums, and public buildings, many dating back to the 1800s. It offers a glimpse into Pensacola’s history, from its colonial roots to the early 20th century.
We began our tour inside the Old Christ Church, where our guide, Matt Santillo, gave an engaging overview of Pensacola’s past. The stunning 19th-century church featured elegant brickwork, intricate wood detailing, and a stately presence reflecting colonial and Victorian architectural styles. Sitting in its pews, I felt it was a fitting place to learn about the history of the United States’ oldest city.
Matt then led us through several historic homes, where we learned more about the daily life of the village residents:
- Lear/Rocheblave House (1890)
- Dorr House (1871)
- Lavalle House (1805)
At the Lavalle House, we watched reenactors wearing period clothing give a demonstration to a group of young schoolchildren.
Matt’s wit and deep knowledge made the tour exceptional, enriching our understanding of Pensacola’s rich history and cultural evolution.
Pensacola Bay Brewery
After the tour, Lisa and I enjoyed a beer at Pensacola Bay Brewery, across the street from the village. Lisa ordered a DeLuna Kolsch and an Original Pensacola Premium Lager Uncut, and we sat outside on their patio, enjoying the 77-degree day on the patio.
Pensacola Historical Museum
After enjoying our beers, we walked to the nearby Pensacola Historical Museum, which offered a deep dive into the city’s colonial and military history. The museum has an extensive collection of artifacts, exhibits, and stories tracing Pensacola’s evolution over the centuries.
One of my favorite exhibits was on the second floor, dedicated to Trader Jon’s, a legendary bar that once served as a popular hangout for military pilots. The display captured the lively, aviation-centered culture of the era, making it a standout part of my visit. Lisa had fun with her magnifying glass at the All the Small Things special exhibit, which displayed miniature artifacts.
America’s First Settlement Trail
After exploring the museum, we followed part of the America’s First Settlement Trail, a painted red line on the sidewalk that winds through Historic Pensacola, passing numerous points of interest. Along the way, we saw Plaza Ferdinand VII, the Seville Tower, and the Seville Quarter with its ornate cast-iron balconies. We also passed a statue honoring J. Earle Bowden—a local journalist, cartoonist, historian, and community advocate—before reaching a parking garage adorned with a giant mural.
Next, we explored St. Michael’s Cemetery, one of Florida’s oldest burial grounds, dating back to the 18th century. Spanning eight acres, it holds the graves of Spanish, French, British, and American settlers, along with military veterans and community leaders. Originally a Catholic cemetery, it later became a public burial site, reflecting Pensacola’s diverse heritage.
As we wandered through the cemetery, we took in the mix of ornate crypts, marble headstones, and simple markers that offered a glimpse into the lives of those who helped shape the city. Despite centuries of hurricanes and natural erosion, preservation efforts have kept this historic site remarkably intact.
We then returned to the truck and admired the old houses decorated for Mardi Gras, an antique car in Seville Square, an antique truck with some inflatable characters probably preparing for a Mardi Gras Parade, and another painted penguin.
Gulf Breeze
On the way back to the campground, we took a detour through Santa Rosa Island. This barrier island off the coast of Pensacola, Florida, is known for its pristine white-sand beaches, emerald-green waters, and diverse ecosystems. Stretching approximately 50 miles, this narrow island separates the Gulf of Mexico from the Santa Rosa Sound and Pensacola Bay. Unfortunately, our route just took us through the retail section, and the traffic was awful, making it a less-than-scenic drive.
Trip Meeting
We returned to the campground by 4 p.m., just in time for our Caravan Team meeting, where we reviewed the upcoming activities for the next several days.