The Journey from Valdez to Tok
Today, we set out on a 257-mile journey from Valdez to Tok, heading north along the Richardson Highway and retracing our route back to the Alaska Highway. The morning began with low-lying clouds enveloping the rugged mountain peaks around Valdez, creating a dramatic and misty landscape.
As we ascended into Thompson Pass, the fog thickened dramatically, reducing visibility to the point where navigating the winding road became challenging. The pass, often known for its breathtaking views, was cloaked in an almost otherworldly mist. The dense fog clung to the road and surrounding cliffs until we began our descent, where it finally dissipated, revealing the rugged terrain of the surrounding Chugach Mountains.
The weather gradually improved, and the skies had brightened considerably by the time we reached the Richardson and Glenn Highways intersection.
Wrangell-Elias National Park Visitor Center
We stopped at Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve Visitor Center. The park is the largest national park in the United States, spanning an incredible 13.2 million acres—larger than Switzerland. The park encompasses the Wrangell, St. Elias, and Chugach mountain ranges and portions of the Nabesna and Malaspina glaciers, making it a geological and natural wonder. Its towering peaks include Mount St. Elias, the second-highest in the U.S. at 18,008 feet, and Mount Wrangell, a 14,163-foot active volcano. Wrangell-St. Elias is home to nine of the 16 tallest peaks in the U.S. and remarkable glaciers like the Nabesna Glacier, North America’s longest valley glacier at 53 miles, and the Malaspina Glacier, which is larger than Rhode Island. The Hubbard Glacier, one of North America’s largest and most active tidewater glaciers, is another highlight.
The park is rich in the history of Native Alaskan cultures, particularly the Ahtna and Tlingit peoples, whose deep ties to the land stretch back thousands of years. It also preserves remnants of the early 20th-century copper mining era, including the Kennecott Mines, a National Historic Landmark showcasing the region’s industrial past.
At the visitor center complex, we explored a variety of facilities, including the main visitor center, exhibit hall, theater, and the Ahtna Cultural Center. The main building featured an information desk, a gift shop, and introductory exhibits. A separate exhibit hall delved into the park’s natural and cultural history, with displays on its glaciers, volcanoes, and wildlife.
One of the most common questions at the visitor center involved the condition of the McCarthy Road, a rugged 30-mile dirt road leading to the historic Kennecott Copper Mine. Known for its challenging terrain, it remains one of the few ways to access the park’s remote interior.
During our visit, we spent time at the Ahtna Cultural Center, learning about the traditions and history of the Ahtna Athabascan people and their enduring relationship with the land. We also watched a short film in the theater, which gave us an inspiring overview of the park’s stunning landscapes and fascinating history.
Tok Cutoff
We turned onto the Tok Cutoff near the small town of Gakona. This stretch of road, about 120 miles long, took us through a landscape of rolling hills interspersed with sudden, steep rises and descents over highland plateaus and winding valleys.
The weather, however, obscured some of the most dramatic scenery. Thick clouds hung low, shrouding the towering peaks of the Wrangell Mountains to the south and the Alaska Range to the north and west. Despite the limited visibility, the sense of being surrounded by these massive ranges added an air of mystery and grandeur to the journey.
At the beginning of the drive, the road followed the expansive Copper River Valley, where the river’s wide, braided channels reflected its glacial origins. As we progressed, the Copper River’s presence gradually diminished, giving way to the Gulkana River and its smaller tributaries. These waterways, surrounded by dense boreal forests, added a sense of tranquility to the otherwise rugged landscape.
As we approached Tok, the Tok River came into view, its waters winding through the valley floor. This marked the final stretch of the journey, with the river serving as a picturesque welcome to the small community of Tok, often referred to as the “Gateway to Alaska.”
Tok RV Village
We once again stayed at Tok RV Village, a conveniently located campground we enjoyed during our initial drive into Alaska. Initially, we were told we would be using the same site as before, but upon arrival, we were reassigned to another spot a few sites down.
Our new site resembled the previous one: a spacious, level, full-hookup pull-through. The layout made parking and setting up the camper a breeze. Since we were only staying for the night, we decided to remain connected to the camper for a quick departure in the morning, a convenience we appreciated after a long day on the road.
Fast Eddy’s
That evening, the caravan group gathered at Fast Eddy’s, a popular local restaurant and a favorite dining spot in Tok.
Lisa and I decided to try the “Original Hoagie Burger,” featuring two juicy patties, bacon, and Swiss cheese served on a toasted hoagie roll instead of the usual bun. The burger was generously sized, so we opted to split it, making it just the right amount for both of us. It came with a side of crispy, golden fries.