Saturday, 21 Sept
Greybull, WY, to Wind River Canyon
We retraced our route to Thermopolis along the same roads as the day before, traveling on US-20 through the expansive Bighorn Basin. The landscape here is vast and open, offering sweeping views of the Bighorn Mountains to the east and the Absaroka Range to the west. The basin’s flat terrain is interspersed with occasional bluffs, mesas, and small patches of farmland nestled near the Bighorn River.
North of Worland, the highway winds through striking red rock badlands. This arid region is sparsely vegetated, dominated by sagebrush and desert shrubs, with dramatic rock formations adding texture to the scenery.
As we neared Thermopolis, the landscape grew more rugged.
Wind River Canyon
The highway descended into the stunning Wind River Canyon, where towering cliffs and steep rock faces line the route. We had driven its length the previous day, but I still found the drive incredibly scenic and took too many pictures.
Wind River Canyon to Casper, WY
Emerging from the canyon, we briefly followed the edge of Boysen Reservoir before continuing through the foothills of the Owl Creek Mountains. This area is characterized by rugged hills and striking sedimentary rock layers in shades of red, tan, and gray, creating colorful badlands.
Crossing the Owl Creek Mountains, the landscape shifted to the open expanse of the Wind River Basin. Here, the terrain flattened into high desert plains, with its characteristic dry, sparse vegetation. Approaching Shoshoni, we transitioned to Wyoming Highway 20/26, passing through sections of badlands and rolling desert hills adorned with vibrant red, gray, and yellow rock formations.
Closer to Casper, the terrain gradually flattened further, and we began to see more vegetation as we entered the North Platte River Valley. Casper Mountain loomed on the horizon, a distinctive feature signaling our approach to the city. The diverse and ever-changing landscapes along the way showcased Wyoming’s natural beauty, from rugged canyons to serene plains.
Casper, WY
Casper is the second-largest city in Wyoming. It was founded along the Oregon, California, and Mormon trails during the mass migration in the mid-nineteenth century. The town was named in honor of Fort Caspar and Lt. Caspar Collins, but due to a typo that occurred when the town’s name was officially registered, it was called “Casper” instead of Caspar. It is nicknamed “The Oil City” due to its long history of oil boom town and cowboy culture, dating back to the development of the nearby Salt Creek Oil Field.
Rivers Edge RV and Cabins Resort
This campground was situated just east of Casper, near the North Platte River, and near the interstate. Our pull-through site was positioned near the river (though not directly on its banks) and within easy walking distance of the bathhouse. The site was just long enough for our camper, but the campground’s wide lanes provided plenty of space to park our truck sideways in front or behind the trailer.
Although the sites were somewhat close together, we were fortunate to have an end site, ensuring no neighbors on the door side of our camper. The campground was primarily a large gravel lot with minimal grass, but our site had an artificial turf patio area with a picnic table.
We took a short walk to the river area, which had a nice grassy strip lining the riverbank, complemented by benches that invited visitors to relax and enjoy the peaceful views of the flowing water.
Funky Junk Craft Fair
It was a beautiful day, and at check-in, the manager told us about a street fair downtown, so we decided to check it out. It was easy to find, and we found a parking spot nearby. There were about 40 booths selling crafts, clothing, beer, food, and many other things. After checking out the various booths, we got some local brewery beer and listened to live music by a terrific singer.
Sunday, 22 Sept
Ayres Natural Bridge
We drove out to see the Ayres Natural Bridge,, which was about 40 minutes east of our campground. It was about 7 miles off I-25, and the last mile was down a winding, narrow road into a sandstone canyon.
The natural bridge is in a beautiful park in a sandstone canyon with towering walls. At the entrance, we passed the remains of an old power generation plant. Cottonwood trees and green lawns surrounded picnic areas and tent camping.
The stunning natural sandstone arch formation is one of only a few natural bridges in the United States that span a waterway. It spans about 50 feet across LaPrele Creek and reaches approximately 15 feet above it. A steep trail enabled me to climb to the top of the arch.
Casper Mountain
After returning to Casper, we spent some time exploring the downtown area. We discovered statues scattered throughout the streets and plazas, ranging from life-like bronzes of cowboys, Native Americans, pioneers, and grazing sheep to more modern, whimsical pieces. The statues celebrate Casper’s Western heritage and add a playful and artistic vibe to the city.
A particularly unique architectural landmark downtown is the building locals call “The Onion.” This distinctive structure, part of the former Wyoming National Bank complex, was built in the 1960s when Casper thrived thanks to an oil boom. Its unconventional design reflects the city’s embrace of modernity during that era and has become as iconic to Casper as the Space Needle is to Seattle.
We then ventured up Casper Mountain, an exciting drive with steep inclines and tight switchbacks. As we climbed higher, the scenery transformed from arid plains to verdant pine and aspen forests, with occasional glimpses of the expansive city below. At the summit, we stopped at an overlook that offered stunning panoramic views of Casper and the surrounding high plains, a breathtaking reward for the journey.
Initially, we planned to visit Crimson Dawn Park, a park at the top of the mountain renowned for its annual Summer Solstice celebration, a beloved local tradition featuring storytelling, music, and festivities rooted in folklore. However, the gravel road to the park appeared rough, so we headed back down the mountain.
Indian Relay Races
When we discovered that Casper was hosting the Championship of Champions Indian Relay Races, we eagerly bought tickets for the final day, having enjoyed a similar event at the Calgary Stampede Rodeo.
Before the races, I bought an Indian taco made with fry bread at a food truck outside the stadium. In an unusual bit of synchronicity, I met the CEO of the Calgary Stampede and some of his staff while standing in line. He was there to support the Indian Relay team, which had won in Calgary. I shared our experiences there, and they gave me two Calgary Stampede pins.
The event began with a ceremonial introduction of the riders. During this time, a live auction took place, where attendees could bid to sponsor individual riders. While we didn’t catch all the details of the auction, it appeared that the winning sponsor would receive a share of the money raised in the auction if their rider won. The lengthy process allowed the audience to connect with the riders while conducting a fundraiser.
The Junior Indian Relay kicked off the races, featuring young riders navigating a barrel course—a fun showcase of budding talent. The main event, the Indian Relay, followed, thrilling the crowd with its high-energy blend of speed, coordination, and horsemanship.
Rooted in tradition from Buffalo hunting days, the Indian Relay tests the skills of the horse, rider, and team. Each race involves six riders racing bareback on a ½-mile track with three horses per rider and two exchanges. Teams consist of a Rider, Mugger, Set-Up Man, and Back Holder. The rider completes three laps, switching horses at full speed in a dramatic exchange known as the “storm.” The Mugger catches the galloping horse, the Set-Up Man steadies the next mount, and the Back Holder manages the third horse. A smooth exchange can propel a trailing team into the lead, making these moments the race’s most exhilarating.
While the exchanges occurred against the stadium walls and were somewhat hard to see, the energy from the roaring crowd and the thunderous action on the track made the experience exciting.
When the rodeo was over, we headed back to the camper for dinner and to prepare for our move the next day.