Thursday, 5 Sept
The Journey from Radium Hot Springs, BC, to Columbia Falls, MT
We headed south on Highway 93 through the Columbia River Valley. At Canal Flats, we began to follow the Kootenay River. The valley opened but was still flanked by steep, rocky slopes and canyons. Forested hills and cliffs provide beautiful views along the road.
The Tobacco Plains started just north of the border, and the terrain transitioned from rugged mountains to rolling hills and open grasslands. This area had several lakes and wetlands, with more open terrain and fewer trees.
After quickly passing through US Customs at the border, we continued toward Whitefish. As we approached the Whitefish Range, a sub-range of the Rocky Mountains, the terrain became hillier again.
After we drove through Whitefish and turned south, we turned onto MT-40 toward Columbia Falls. Columbia Falls sits in the broad Flathead Valley, though the Rocky Mountains were still visible to the east.
Columbia Falls
Columbia Falls has a population of about 5,000 and is just 20 minutes from Glacier National Park’s western entrance. The Flathead River runs through the area, surrounded by the Whitefish Range to the north and the Swan Range to the east.
Columbia Falls is a charming town of about 5,000 residents, located just 20 minutes from the western entrance of Glacier National Park, making it a popular gateway for park visitors. Nestled in the Flathead Valley, the town is surrounded by stunning natural beauty. The Flathead River meanders through the area, flanked by the Whitefish Range to the north and the Swan Range to the east.
Glacier Peaks RV Park
Glacier Peaks RV Park was just off MT-40. The park had 60 RV pull-through sites and some cabins. We had site #26, a full-hookup pull-thru site long enough for our truck and trailer. It was level and had a little shade.
Mudman Burgers
After setting up our camper, we headed to Mudman Burgers for lunch. The menu featured classic burgers and indulgent shakes, and I couldn’t resist ordering their specialty: a juicy 1/3-pound hamburger smothered in all-meat chili. Their secret sauce was a perfect match for the crispy fries, and the meal wouldn’t have been complete without a pair of huckleberry shakes that were rich and delicious.
While the food was great, we later discovered the chain had a controversial past. Founded by a local evangelical Christian ministry, Mudman Burgers became embroiled in allegations against the ministry’s leadership. Accusations ranged from cult-like behavior and verbal abuse to sexual harassment and poor working conditions for employees. These controversies led to the chain’s closure in 2019. It reopened in 2020 as a for-profit LLC, with the ministry’s founder still connected to the chain. He did step down from the ministry due to the backlash.
The controversy added an unexpected layer to our experience, casting a shadow over what was otherwise a satisfying meal. It served as a reminder of the often unseen complexities behind local businesses and their histories.
Shepard Memorial Fountain
After lunch, we decided to drive to Hungry Horse Dam, a popular landmark in the area. Along the way, we came across a large turnoff near the scenic Flathead River, where we noticed a curious sight: a white PVC pipe jutting from the mountainside with water pouring out of it. Intrigued, we pulled over to check it out.
The water flowed from what is known as the Shepard Memorial Fountain, named in honor of Lion Don Shepard of Kalispell. A stone marker commemorates the dedication, while a nearby historical sign tells of the spring’s importance over the decades. This natural spring has provided generations of fresh drinking water to locals and travelers. In the early days of automobiles, it even served another purpose: cooling the overheated radiators of weary vehicles traversing the area’s rugged roads.
Despite a small, weathered, bullet-riddled sign cautioning, “Drink at your own risk,” the fountain seemed as popular as ever. While we were there, several people stopped and filled jugs and water bottles, seemingly unfazed by the warning.
Huckleberry Patch
As we made our way into the small town of Hungry Horse, we couldn’t resist stopping at the Huckleberry Patch, a local landmark and one of the most renowned huckleberry-themed stores in the area. Hungry Horse is in the heart of huckleberry country, where these prized wild berries thrive in the high-elevation forests of the Northern Rockies. Unlike most cultivated fruits, huckleberries are almost exclusively harvested from wild plants, making them a coveted regional specialty.
Inside, shelves were lined with an impressive variety of items—from jams, syrups, and preserves to baked goods like pies and muffins. The store also had an array of quirky merchandise, including T-shirts with playful huckleberry-themed slogans that gave us a good laugh. There were candies, teas, barbecue sauces, and even huckleberry lotions and soaps.
They also had a snack bar that served slices of Huckleberry pie. We vowed to return and try some later.
Hungry Horse Dam
We followed Hungry Horse Dam Road out of the town of Hungry Horse toward the Hungry Horse Dam Visitor Center. The winding road climbed through thick forests and hugged the contours of the South Fork of the Flathead River. Along the way, we stopped at a scenic overlook offering sweeping views of the dam and the rugged peaks of the surrounding mountains.
Hungry Horse Dam is a towering feat of engineering. Rising 564 feet and stretching 2,115 feet across at its crest, it ranks among the tallest concrete dams in the United States. Built between 1948 and 1953, it was part of a broader effort to manage water resources in the Columbia River Basin, providing hydroelectric power, flood control, and irrigation. The massive reservoir it created, Hungry Horse Reservoir, extends 34 miles, covering nearly 23,000 acres.
The dam’s name comes from a local legend dating back to the winter of 1900. According to the story, two freight horses, Tex and Jerry, wandered away from their logging camp during a brutal snowstorm. After weeks of searching, the emaciated but surviving horses were found miles away, earning them the nickname “The Hungry Horses” and inspiring the name of the town, river, and dam.
At the visitor center, located just beside the dam, we explored the various exhibits that showcased photographs of the dam being built, the challenges faced by workers, and the innovative engineering techniques used to create such an enormous structure in the post-war era. Interactive displays highlighted the dam’s hydroelectric capabilities and its impact on flood prevention in the Flathead Valley.
The visitor center also featured viewing windows and an outdoor platform, giving us an up-close perspective of the dam’s colossal scale. We were especially fascinated with the dam’s spillway, the world’s highest morning glory structure. The spillway is controlled by a 64-by-12-foot ring gate.
Migrating fish cannot currently pass the Hungry Horse Dam because it was constructed without fish passage facilities, such as fish ladders or elevators. At the time of its construction in the late 1940s and early 1950s, little consideration was given to the impact on migratory fish, as was common for large hydroelectric projects of that era. This lack of fish passage has had significant ecological consequences, particularly for native fish species like bull trout and westslope cutthroat trout. These species historically relied on the upper river and its tributaries for spawning and rearing, and the dam’s presence has fragmented their habitats, leading to declines in their populations.
Glacier National Park
Since Glacier National Park does not require timed-entry after 3 pm, we decided to take a quick drive up to the park.
Often referred to as the “Crown of the Continent,” Glacier National Park spans over 1 million acres of awe-inspiring scenery. This vast wilderness is home to rugged mountains, pristine forests, alpine meadows, and more than 130 named lakes. While the park originally gained fame for its glaciers, climate change has reduced their number to fewer than 25. Nevertheless, the park boasts over 700 lakes, the most notable being Lake McDonald, St. Mary Lake, and Two Medicine Lake. Additionally, the park is intersected by a network of rivers, including the picturesque Flathead River and McDonald Creek.
Lake McDonald
Once we entered the park, our first stop was a pullover near Lake McDonald.
Spanning approximately 10 miles in length and about a mile in width, Lake McDonald is the largest body of water in Glacier National Park, with a maximum depth of 472 feet. Nestled in a valley and flanked by the majestic Livingston Range to the north and east, the lake is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. The exceptionally clear waters of Lake McDonald revealed the multicolored pebbles known as glacial till, especially noticeable near the shoreline.
On that calm day, with no wind to disturb the surface, the water was like a mirror, perfectly reflecting the surrounding mountains. We spent time taking in the breathtaking views and capturing photos of the serene reflections.
McDonald Falls
As we continued our journey along the Going-to-the-Sun Road, we paused at the viewpoint of McDonald Falls. Nestled on McDonald Creek and just a short distance from Lake McDonald, this waterfall spans over 100 feet across and cascades over a series of rocky steps, creating a mesmerizing spectacle of frothy white water and rhythmic sound.
The surrounding area is lush with greenery, with dense forests of pine and cedar trees that frame the falls beautifully. The viewpoint is well-positioned to provide stunning views of the falls and the creek below. As we admired McDonald Falls, we noticed the clarity of the water, which allowed us to see the rocks and pebbles beneath the surface.
McDonald Creek – Unnamed Pulloff
As we continued up the road, we found a unnamed pulloff that had stairs going down to McDonald Creek, Here we saw the beautiful glacial water cascading through a narrow split in the rocks.
The Journey to The Loop
As we continued down the Going-to-the-Sun Road, we found that many of the viewpoints were full, preventing us from stopping. As we passed Red Rock Point, the forested valley began to give way to steeper slopes, and the road started clinging to the mountains’ sides. This shift in terrain brought us face-to-face with sheer cliffs, steep drop-offs, and increasingly expansive views of the McDonald Valley below. As we climbed higher in elevation, the dense forests began to thin out, revealing more rugged and alpine landscapes.
Our journey brought us to The Loop, a sharp switchback in the road offering a large parking lot. The terrain at The Loop was rugged and mountainous, with towering cliffs above and breathtaking views of the McDonald Valley below. From this vantage point, we could see Heaven’s Peak to the west and the densely forested slopes of the valley.
After taking some time to absorb the magnificent views, we decided to head back down because the road was making Lisa nervous, and it was getting late.
Red Rock Point
Since it was getting late in the day, we were able to find a parking spot at Red Rock Point. Here, McDonald Creek rushes energetically through the gorge, carving its way over smooth, colorful stones. The vibrant red, orange, and rust-colored rocks in the creek bed give the area its name and create a stunning contrast to the blues and greens of the flowing water.
The late afternoon light cast a warm glow over the landscape, highlighting the rich colors of the rocks and making the water sparkle. The vibrant colors of the rocks result from iron oxide deposits that have accumulated over millennia.
A short trail led us closer to the water’s edge, where we could fully appreciate the interplay of light and color in the shallow pools and swirling rapids. The surrounding evergreen forest framed the scene.
Sacred Dancing Cascades
We then stopped at the viewpoint for Sacred Dancing Cascades, a beautiful and serene series of small waterfalls on McDonald Creek. This peaceful spot is aptly named for the way the water gracefully tumbles and flows over the rocks, resembling a “dance.”
A footbridge spanned the creek, providing us with a fantastic vantage point to view the cascading waters below. From the bridge, we could see the water sparkling in the sunlight as it moved over the colorful stones. The surrounding lush greenery enhanced the beauty of the scene.
After enjoying the beauty of the cascades, we headed back to the camper to eat dinner and prepare for the next day.
Friday, 6 Sept
US-2
Today, we decided to visit the east side of Glacier National Park by taking US-2 around the park’s southern edge.
As we drove east, we passed God’s Ten Commandments Park. This small park features a short driving loop with 25 billboards displaying religious messages and a visitor center. Each commandment has its billboard alongside others with religious and political messages. The Klevmoens and those in Las Vegas and Belize funded these billboards. Their mission is to place billboards in every state and country, and so far, they have installed magnets and banners in 17 countries and every state.
Continuing down US-2, we made a stop at the Shepard Memorial Fountain. We had visited this spot the day before, but after doing some research the previous night, I decided to bring a glass to experience the water myself. After filling the glass and taking a sip, I found the water refreshingly good and cold.
As we journeyed further, we passed a park featuring large silver wrecking balls. From our visit to Hungry Horse Dam the day before, we learned that these massive 4-1/2-ton steel balls were crucial during the dam’s construction. They were used to help clear trees from the construction site by swinging on a wire rope between two tractors to smash down large swathes of forest effectively. These immense wrecking balls sit in the park as historical artifacts, a poignant reminder of the monumental effort and ingenuity that went into building the Hungry Horse Dam.
Our drive took us northeast toward West Glacier Village, the western entrance to Glacier National Park. We then continued southeast, following the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. The highway here delineates the Great Bear Wilderness on our right from Glacier National Park on our left, offering stunning views on both sides.
Farther down the highway we passed a distinctive blue train car sitting off in the trees beside the highway. This train car belonged to the Izaak Walton Inn, built in the 1930s as a railroad hotel for workers on the Great Northern Railway. The inn still embraces its railroad heritage by offering several refurbished train cars, including this blue car, as unique guest rooms.
Goat Lick Overlook
We then stopped at Goat Lick Overlook. The overlook is named for the mountain goats that frequent the area in the spring, attracted by the exposed mineral deposits in the surrounding cliffs. These minerals are essential to their diet, and the goats can often be seen licking the cliffs to ingest them.
The site features a nice short walking trail that leads to an overlook, providing a view down onto the river cliffs. However, the dense foliage obstructed most of the view.
Unfortunately, we did not see any mountain goats during our stop as they typically move to higher elevations in the summer.
Bear Creek
A little farther down the road, we stopped at a parking area near the confluence of Bear Creek and the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. This scenic spot provided an excellent opportunity to explore the shoreline and take in the area’s natural beauty. The clear waters of the creek and river converged, creating a serene and picturesque setting. The banks were dotted with smooth, colorful pebbles, and the gentle sound of the flowing water added to the peaceful ambiance.
After our refreshing stop, we continued our journey on US-2, which turned and headed northeast toward Marias Pass.
Silver Staircase Waterfall
Our next stop was to see the Silver Staircase Waterfall, a hidden gem known for its unique and visually striking cascade. The name “Silver Staircase” aptly describes how the water flows down a series of rocky steps, creating the illusion of a silver staircase as it tumbles gracefully over the stones. This effect is particularly enchanting when sunlight catches the water, giving it a shimmering, silver-like appearance that dances across the rocks.
The waterfall is surrounded by lush greenery, with moss-covered rocks and ferns adding to the serene and picturesque setting. The sound of the water, usually a gentle but constant rush, was much quieter this time due to the reduced flow. Unfortunately, very little water was cascading down the waterfall during our visit, likely due to seasonal changes or recent weather conditions.
Marias Pass
We then reached Marias Pass, located at an elevation of 5,213 feet, making it one of the lowest crossings of the Continental Divide in the Rocky Mountains. This historic pass is a vital transportation route and a place steeped in history and significance.
The pass was discovered in 1889 by John F. Stevens, a railroad engineer working for the Great Northern Railway. Tasked with finding a viable route across the rugged Continental Divide, Stevens’s discovery of Marias Pass played a pivotal role in the completion of the railway. Today, a bronze statue of Stevens stands at the pass, commemorating his achievement and the railway’s transformative role in connecting the region to the rest of the country.
In addition to the Stevens statue, a 60-foot obelisk honors President Theodore Roosevelt, whose leadership made forest conservation a national priority. This monument, erected in 1931, marked the 25th anniversary of the U.S. Forest Service, an organization Roosevelt championed. The obelisk sits at the boundary of two stunning landscapes: the Lewis and Clark National Forest and the Flathead National Forest, emphasizing the importance of preserving these wild lands.
Nearby, a humble plaque set into a rock pays tribute to William “Slippery Bill” Morrison, a prospector and homesteader who lived in the Marias Pass area. Morrison was key in ensuring the Great Northern Railway’s right-of-way through the pass.
Blackfeet Nation Sculpture
As we continued our journey toward East Glacier, we stopped at The Blackfeet Nation Sculpture, located at the southeast entrance to the Blackfeet Reservation. This striking sculpture features two Native American warriors astride their horses, a powerful tribute to the culture and history of the Blackfeet Nation (Amskapi Piikani), whose traditional lands extend across the region.
The sculpture is crafted from an eclectic mix of materials, including scraps of rusted automobiles, bits of barbed wire, and stones from an old mission school. These repurposed materials add a layer of historical and cultural significance to the artwork, symbolizing resilience and the enduring spirit of the Blackfeet people.
The sculpture is one of four identical pieces that stand at each of the entrances to the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. Each sculpture serves as a sentinel, honoring the warriors and their legacy while also celebrating the creativity and resourcefulness that are hallmarks of Blackfeet artistry.
Lower Two Medicine Lake
At East Glacier Park, we turned off on MT-49 toward the Two Medicine area of Glacier National Park.
Continuing our journey, we turned onto 2 Medicine Road, which follows the scenic Lower Two Medicine Lake. This beautiful natural lake is located within Glacier National Park and partially extends into the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. Historically, the Two Medicine area holds significant cultural importance for the Blackfeet Nation, serving as a traditional gathering and ceremonial site.
The lake has a small dam that was constructed in 1967 for flood control and irrigation storage. This dam plays a crucial role in regulating the lake level, helping to mitigate the potential for downstream flooding and ensuring a stable water supply for irrigation. The area around the lake is rich with lush vegetation and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
Running Eagle Falls
We stopped at the Running Eagle Trailhead between Lower Two Medicine Lake and Medicine Lake. This 0.7-mile loop trail took us to Running Eagle Falls.
This waterfall is named after Running Eagle, a legendary female warrior of the Blackfeet Nation. She is remembered for her courage and leadership in a role traditionally held by men in Blackfeet society. According to legend, she gained her vision quest and spiritual power from the area around the falls.
Running Eagle Falls is often called “Trick Falls” because of its distinctive appearance during certain times of the year. In high-water seasons (spring and early summer), water cascades over the top of a large rock cliff, creating a traditional waterfall. In late summer and fall, the flow reduces, and the waterfall appears to emerge from a cave in the rock, which gives it the nickname “Trick Falls.” This seasonal change is due to the flow of Two Medicine Creek, which runs above the cave in the spring, but during drier months, most of the water is channeled through an underground passage, creating the illusion of water pouring directly from the rock.
Two Medicine Lake
We then continued our journey to Two Medicine Lake, a breathtaking alpine gem nestled in the southeastern corner of Glacier National Park. The road ends at the lake’s eastern shore, where its tranquil waters stretch approximately 2 miles long and 0.33 miles wide. The scene was captivating, with the lake’s crystal-clear surface reflecting the jagged, towering peaks of Rising Wolf Mountain and Sinopah Mountain. Their rugged silhouettes formed a striking backdrop against the deep blue of the water.
The parking lot near the lake was small and full when we arrived, so we took a moment to admire the stunning beauty of the lake from the truck. Even from a distance, the view was captivating.
Two Medicine Lake is not just a scenic destination—it is a place of profound cultural and historical importance to the Blackfeet Nation. For generations, the Blackfeet people have held the area sacred, and the name “Two Medicine” reflects their tradition of performing healing ceremonies near the lake. These ceremonies, central to their spiritual practices, were deeply connected to the land and the surrounding natural elements. The name is thought to originate from the presence of two medicine lodges historically used in these sacred rites.
The lake and its surroundings are rich with stories and legends, including tales of the Blackfeet’s spiritual relationship with the area’s mountains, animals, and waterways. Rising Wolf Mountain, for example, is named after Hugh Monroe, an early white settler who lived among the Blackfeet and was named “Rising Wolf” by the tribe. For the Blackfeet, however, the mountain holds a much older and deeper significance tied to their oral traditions and worldview.
Today, the Two Medicine area is less crowded than the main hubs of Glacier National Park, but historically, Two Medicine was once one of Glacier’s busiest regions, serving as a major destination for visitors arriving by train in the early 20th century. The Two Medicine Chalet, which no longer stands, was built by the Great Northern Railway in 1914 to welcome guests who sought adventure and respite in the wilderness.
Though our visit to Two Medicine Lake was brief, its beauty and cultural significance were enjoyed.
Hwy 49
We returned to Highway 49 and continued north on Looking Glass Hill Road, a historic scenic route named after the Nez Perce leader “Looking Glass.” Born around 1830 in western Montana, Looking Glass, or Allalimya Takanin, was a respected chief and strategist of the Nez Perce tribe. He played a significant role during the Nez Perce War of 1877, particularly in guiding his people as they fled across the Rocky Mountains in a desperate attempt to avoid capture by the U.S. Army. Looking Glass was known for his keen awareness of the land, his leadership, and his efforts to protect his people during this tumultuous time.
The road, bearing his name, winds through some of Montana’s most stunning terrain. As we ascended the hill, Two Medicine Valley stretched out in a patchwork of grasslands, forests, and shimmering waterways. From our vantage point, we caught sight of Lower Two Medicine Lake, its tranquil waters reflecting the surrounding slopes.
Crossing over the crest of the hill, the scenery changed dramatically. On the eastern side, wide-open grasslands and rolling hills replaced the towering peaks and dense forests. This transition from the dramatic Rocky Mountains to the gentle undulations of the prairie is a hallmark of this part of Montana, where the Great Plains meet the Rockies. The golden grasses swayed in the breeze, and we could see for miles across the expansive landscape, punctuated occasionally by clusters of trees or distant ranches.
Kyiyo Mercantile
We continued on MT-49 until we reached the intersection with US-89, where we made a stop at the Kyiyo Mercantile. The name “Kyiyo” comes from the Blackfeet word for bear, highlighting the store’s connection to the local Indigenous community as it sits on the Blackfeet Reservation.
Kyiyo Mercantile was a later venture of Will Hammerquist, who owned Polebridge Mercantile. The store offers a variety of baked goods, deli items, and even fried chicken, paying homage to the former Kiowa Fried Chicken that once operated at the junction.
This store also serves Huckleberry Bear Claws, a delicious local treat made famous by the Polebridge Mercantile, so we bought one and enjoyed it outside at one of the picnic tables. As we enjoyed our snack, we took in the beautiful landscape surrounding us.
US 89
We continued north on US-89 toward Many Glacier.
Wide-open grasslands and rolling hills dominate the area. As we approached St Marys, the highway began following the St. Mary River through the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, and the terrain became more varied, with deeper ravines and a mix of grassy and forested areas.
We continued north on US-89 toward Many Glacier and wide-open grasslands and rolling hills dominated the landscape.
As we approached St. Mary, the highway began to follow the St. Mary River through the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. The terrain became more varied, with deeper ravines and a mix of grassy and forested areas. The rolling hills gave way to more rugged and uneven land, with dramatic elevation changes. The foothills were adorned with a mix of dense forests and open meadows, providing a diverse and scenic backdrop.
Blackfoot Indian Memorial
Two miles south of St. Mary, we stopped at the Blackfoot Indian Memorial at the St. Mary Lookout. This site prominently features a striking sculpture of a Blackfoot woman on horseback pulling a travois, a traditional sled used to carry loads. The sidewalks lead to two steel tepee structures, symbolizing traditional Blackfeet dwellings and serving as a tribute to the enduring heritage of the Blackfeet Nation.
The memorial is thoughtfully designed to give visitors a deeper understanding of Blackfeet history, culture, and traditions. Various signs and placards scattered throughout the site offer insights into the rich cultural practices, historical events, and the significance of the land to the Blackfeet people.
Beyond the meadow surrounding the memorial, the landscape bears the scars and signs of recovery from past wildfires. The remnants of the Red Eagle Fire in 2006 and the Reynolds Creek Fire in 2015 are visible in the charred trunks and burnt areas. However, nature’s resilience is evident in the fresh stands of young trees, fields of raspberries, and the general greening of the area.
Lake Sherburne
In Babb, we turned onto Route 3 toward Many Glacier. This gravel road was dusty and full of ruts, making for a rough and bumpy 15-minute drive to the park entrance.
As we followed the north shore of Lake Sherburne, we were treated to views of this large, man-made reservoir. Stretching about 6 miles in length, Lake Sherburne was created in 1921 to provide water storage for the Milk River Project. This project plays a crucial role in supporting irrigation in northern Montana and southern Alberta, Canada, highlighting the importance of the reservoir in regional agriculture.
The shoreline of Lake Sherburne offered scenic vistas, with the calm waters reflecting the surrounding mountains and trees. Midway along the shore, we reached the entrance station to the park. Since it was after 3 p.m., we did not need a timed pass to enter, allowing us to proceed smoothly into Many Glacier.
Many Glacier Lodge
The road was paved after the entrance station. It took another 10-15 minutes to reach Many Glacier Lodge. Near the parking lot entrance was the 70-foot Swiftcurrent Falls.
The hotel’s very large parking lot was packed, but we found a spot and walked around the hotel area.
Many Glacier Hotel is one of the most iconic lodges in Glacier National Park. It is located on the shores of Swiftcurrent Lake in the Many Glacier Valley. The Great Northern Railway built it in 1914–1915, and it was designed to resemble a Swiss chalet. The hotel offers incredible views of the surrounding mountains, including Mount Grinnell, Mount Gould, and Mount Wilbur.
Visitors can also view the impressive Grinnell Glacier and the much smaller Gem Glacier. Swiftcurrent Glacier is also nearby, although it is not visible from the lodge and has significantly retreated over the years. Since Glacier National Park was established in 1910, the Many Glacier area has witnessed notable glacial retreat due to climate change. Out of the 37 named glaciers in the park, 26 have completely disappeared since 1966. The remaining glaciers have shrunk considerably, with an average size reduction of 39% over the past several decades. Boulder Glacier has experienced the most dramatic decrease, losing about 85% of its area.
It was getting late in the day, so we did not go inside, but we enjoyed the views from a large ridge that overlooked the hotel. It gave us great views of the lodge, the lake, and the impressive mountain landscape around us.
Hwy 464 to US-2 and Columbia Falls
We retraced our route back to Babb and then turned onto MT-464, heading south toward Browning. The road carried us through a landscape that gradually shifted from rugged foothills to the vast, open grasslands of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. The horizon stretched endlessly, dotted with sagebrush and the occasional cluster of trees, with the towering Rocky Mountains receding in the distance behind us.
Browning, the heart of the Blackfeet Nation, came into view as we continued south. Serving as the headquarters for one of the largest Native American tribes in the United States, the town is home to about 1,000 to 1,500 residents. The small community reflects the resilience of the Blackfeet people, though it also bears the scars of systemic challenges. The high prevalence of mobile homes, combined with aging infrastructure, highlighted the ongoing struggles with poverty and housing shortages faced by many Native American communities.
After connecting with US-2 in Browning, we turned westward and began the final leg of our journey back to Columbia Falls. As we left the reservation, the scenery shifted again, transitioning into rolling farmlands framed by distant mountain ranges. The evening light painted the fields in golden hues, but we didn’t make any more stops, eager to return to our camper and reflect on the incredible day we had experienced.
Saturday, 7 Sept
Kalispell Farmers Market
This morning, we decided to visit a farmers’ market—one of our favorite activities when traveling. Farmers’ markets are more than just a place to shop; they offer a glimpse into the local culture, the region’s flavors, and the creativity of its people. They also allow us to treat ourselves to a few unique finds along the way.
Several farmers’ markets are held throughout the Flathead Valley during the week, and today’s was in Kalispell on the scenic grounds of Flathead Valley Community College, just an 18-minute drive from our campground. Upon our arrival, we were captivated by the vibrant mountain ash trees lining the sidewalks, their clusters of bright red berries creating a captivating sight.
The market was bustling with energy. Local farmers had set up booths overflowing with incredible produce, including fresh fruits, vegetables, and sweet corn. Others sold farm-raised meats, fresh eggs, and baked goods. We were drawn to a stand offering local honey and another selling heirloom varieties of native plants and trees.
In addition to the farmers, local artisans showcased their creations. Handmade jewelry, pottery, and beautifully crafted soaps were displayed alongside paintings and woodwork. A more modern touch came from several vendors offering items made with 3D printers, which seemed to be a growing trend at farmer’s markets.
While we usually don’t buy much at farmers’ markets, we couldn’t resist indulging in a specialty vendor’s creamy, aromatic Russian coffee. We also picked up some fresh corn on the cob, which we couldn’t wait to enjoy later. As we strolled among the stalls, we soaked in the vibrant community atmosphere, the friendly conversations, and the sense of connection such gatherings foster.
Huckleberry Pie
We then decided to head over to Hungry Horse and get some Huckleberry Pie.
We first stopped at Willows HuckleberryLand Jam & Pie Factory, Eatery, and Gift/Clothing Store. It had a lot of fun statuary on its front lawn. The inside was full of the usual huckleberry and tourist gifts but with a more local, right-wing, and religious vibe with taxidermy on the walls and several t-shirts promoting gun ownership.
The store owner claims that his dad was “the second person in the world to commercially make and sell [Huckleberry] products” (Eva Gates in Bigfork was the first). After 30 years, he lost the store in the 1980s when it was bought to become the Huckleberry Patch down the road. This was the family’s second store, built and owned by the son.
Though HuckleberryLand sold pie by the slice, we drove to the Huckleberry Patch instead. We enjoyed some huckleberry pie with ice cream there: Lisa got vanilla, and I got huckleberry.
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We then decided to head over to Hungry Horse to indulge in some huckleberry pie, a must-try treat in the area.
Our first stop was at Willows HuckleberryLand Jam & Pie Factory, Eatery, and Gift/Clothing Store. When we pulled into the parking lot, the whimsical statues on the front lawn caught our attention—everything from bears to moose, giving the place a quirky roadside attraction vibe. Inside, the shop was packed with huckleberry-themed items and an eclectic selection of tourist souvenirs. Alongside the jams, syrups, and candies were shelves of right-wing and religious merchandise, along with a few taxidermy pieces mounted on the walls. T-shirts promoting gun ownership were displayed prominently, adding to the store’s right-wing personality. It was a curious blend of local charm and bold individuality.
Later, we learned that the store’s owner proudly claimed that his father was “the second person in the world to commercially make and sell huckleberry products,” with Eva Gates in Bigfork being the first. His family had been in the huckleberry business for decades when they lost their original store to new ownership in the 1980s. That store eventually became the Huckleberry Patch, located just down the road. The current store was a second venture, built and owned by the son, and carried on the family tradition of celebrating the iconic berry.
Though HuckleberryLand sold pie by the slice, we decided to continue to the better-known Huckleberry Patch. The place was bustling with visitors, all eager to sample its famous huckleberry offerings. We each ordered a slice of huckleberry pie, served warm and topped with a scoop of ice cream. Lisa opted for vanilla, while I couldn’t resist doubling down on the berry experience with huckleberry ice cream. The flaky crust, sweet-tart filling, and creamy ice cream combination was delicious, making it the perfect mid-afternoon treat.
Kayaking Lake McDonald
The temperature climbed to a sweltering 90 degrees, so we decided to cool off by renting a kayak at Apgar Village in Glacier National Park and paddling on the stunning waters of Lake McDonald. The largest lake in the park, Lake McDonald, stretches over 10 miles long and offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains—a perfect escape from the heat.
Parking at Glacier National Park is always challenging, and Apgar Village was no exception. The narrow streets were packed with cars and pedestrians, and we had to circle the area several times before finally securing a spot.
We rented a tandem kayak from Glacier Outfitters for $51 for two hours. The staff gave us a brief safety briefing and outlined the lake’s rules, including its off-limits areas, to ensure we avoided disturbing wildlife habitats and private land. They provided us with life jackets, paddles, and a plug-in kayak cart to transport the kayak from the rental area to the shoreline—a trek of about five blocks through the bustling village. Dodging wandering tourists and vehicles with a kayak in tow felt like a mini adventure, but we managed to get to the water without any mishaps.
Once on the lake, the heat of the day melted away as we paddled through the cool, crystal-clear water. The surface of the lake was so pristine that we could see colorful stones shimmering beneath us, a signature feature of Lake McDonald. The mountain peaks surrounding the lake formed a dramatic backdrop, though a smoky haze from distant forest fires muted the views slightly. Despite the haze, the grandeur of Glacier National Park was undeniable, and we couldn’t help but feel awed by the tranquil beauty around us.
After our two hours on the water, we reluctantly returned the kayak and made the trek back to the rental shop. The village was just as lively as when we arrived, with families enjoying ice cream cones and visitors browsing the souvenir shops. We returned to our camper feeling refreshed and grateful for the cool reprieve the lake had offered on such a hot day. It was the perfect way to spend an afternoon in Glacier National Park.
Sunday, 8 Sept
Red Bus Tour
Today, we took a “Crown of the Continent” Red Bus tour. The Red Bus Tours are booked months in advance, and I was lucky to find a spot.
The Red Bus Tours use vintage, red-painted 16-passenger buses to provide guided scenic trips. As much of the park’s scenery is vertically oriented, the roll-back tops were perfect for letting us enjoy the park’s splendor without worrying about driving the challenging Going-to-the-Sun road.
Here are some fast facts that I discovered about the iconic Red Buses:
- The Red Buses, on average, transport 60,000 tourists each summer through Glacier N.P. In addition to touring guests around Glacier, the buses have served as evacuation vehicles in times of fire or flooding.
- The Red Buses of Glacier, known as Model 706, were made by the White Motor Company and are the third generation of touring buses used in Glacier National Park. Over 500 White Model 706s were created for different national parks in the US. The Red Buses originally cost $5000 each back in 1936. Today, each red bus is estimated to be worth $250,000.
- The bus numbers represent the order in which they arrived in the park. For example, bus number 97 was the 97th vehicle to be put into service in Glacier. Of the 33 buses on the road today, 17 are from 1936, 11 are from 1937, 4 are from 1938 and 1 is from 1939. The fleet is considered the oldest touring vehicle fleet anywhere in the world.
- The color of the Red Buses comes from the Ripe Mountain Ash Berry in Glacier National Park.
- The Red Buses run on gasoline and propane, which is 93% cleaner.
- The drivers are called “Jammers” because they “jammed” the gears of the red buses when going up the Going-to-the-Sun Road. The Red Buses received their first automatic transmissions in 1989. On the bottom of the grill, you can still see the area where the crank start used to be.
- During the early years of touring, women were discouraged from riding in front because they distracted the male drivers.
- No tours were offered in Glacier between 1943 and 1946 due to fuel rationing caused by the Second World War.
- From 1914 through the 1970s, all Red Bus drivers were college-aged men, mostly in pre-law or Pre-Med. The first female Red Bus driver in Glacier was in the early 1980s.
Lake McDonald
The tour began at the Apgar Visitor Center, where we boarded our bus and headed down Going-to-the-Sun road.
Our first stop was a pullover near Lake McDonald, the largest lake in the park. We had enough time to walk to the shoreline and enjoy the stunning views although the smoke from forest fires in neighboring states was starting to obscure the peaks.
Lake McDonald Lodge
We then continued to the Lake McDonald Lodge. Upon arrival, we were given about 20 minutes to explore the historic site, .
The lodge, originally built between 1913 and 1914 as the Lewis Glacier Hotel, embodies the charm and grandeur of early national park architecture. Designed in the style of a Swiss chalet, its construction was heavily influenced by the Great Northern Railway’s marketing campaign, which promoted Glacier National Park as the “American Alps.” At the time of its opening, there were no roads leading to the lodge, and visitors arrived exclusively by steamboat, with the building’s entrance facing the shimmering waters of Lake McDonald to accommodate their arrival. Today, the lodge is easily accessible by car, but its historical charm remains intact.
Inside, we marveled at the three-story lobby, which radiated rustic elegance. Timber beams stretched high above us, and a massive stone fireplace stood at the center, evoking a sense of warmth and hospitality. The balconies overlooking the lobby were adorned with carved wood railings, while the decor incorporated Native American motifs, including rugs, artwork, and fixtures that paid homage to the region’s cultural heritage. The dim lighting and natural wood tones gave the space a cozy, timeless feel.
We stepped outside to take in the breathtaking views of Lake McDonald, framed by towering peaks. The clear water sparkled under the morning sun, and the surrounding pine trees added to the serene atmosphere. A short walking trail just outside the lodge took us to a small wooden bridge over a small rocky stream. A small dock was nearby with kayaks, a motorboat, and a tour boat.
As we made our way back to the Red Bus, we reflected how this settings was a beautiful combination of history and natural beauty.
McDonald Creek
We continued down the iconic Going-to-the-Sun Road, where the parking areas were already filling up, a common challenge in Glacier National Park. Unlike shuttle buses, the red buses don’t have reserved parking at most stops. Our driver had to remain flexible, stopping only where space was available. This dynamic approach added a sense of spontaneity to the tour, making every red bus journey unique as each one stopped at different locations along the road.
Our next stop was the beautiful Red Rock Point, which we had visited on our first day in the park. Despite the familiarity, we were thrilled to explore this stunning spot again. Red Rocks is a striking area where McDonald Creek tumbles over the smooth, colorful stones. The vibrant hues of the rocks—deep reds, oranges, and purples—contrasted beautifully with the clear blue-green water rushing over them.
We used our time there to stretch our legs and admire the cascades from the wooden platform.
Ascent to Logan Pass
Our bus began a steady ascent, climbing rapidly in elevation as we ventured deeper into the heart of Glacier National Park. The steep, winding road offered breathtaking views that grew more dramatic with every turn, and our driver narrated stories of the road’s construction and the incredible engineering feats required to carve it into the mountainside.
We passed through one of the two tunnels on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a 192-foot-long marvel with strategically placed “windows” cut into the side. These openings offered fleeting but spectacular glimpses of the Upper McDonald Creek Valley far below, with its dense forests and winding streams. L
Soon after, we approached The Loop, the sharp switchback that had marked the turnaround point on our first day. From this vantage, the driver pointed out Heaven Peak, a towering mountain that rises to 8,987 feet. Its rugged summit, often cloaked in snow, loomed prominently against the sky, a reminder of the park’s vast, untamed beauty.
About three miles beyond The Loop, we reached Bird Woman Falls, one of the tallest waterfalls in the park. Cascading over 500 feet from the base of Mount Oberlin, the waterfall was a thin, silvery ribbon that tumbled gracefully into the lush valley below. The falls were fed by melting snow and glacial runoff, and the driver noted how their flow changes dramatically with the seasons.
A mile farther along, we came upon Haystack Falls, a charming cascade that flows over a series of rocky steps before passing directly under a beautifully crafted stone bridge.
Continuing our climb, we encountered the Weeping Wall, a dramatic section of cliff where snowmelt and rainwater seep through cracks in the rock, creating dozens of small waterfalls that cascade directly onto the road. The mist from the wall sparkled in the sunlight, and we would have to wait until our return trip to feel the refreshing spray as it was on the other side of the road.
Just beyond the “Big Bend,” we reached one of the road’s most remarkable feats of engineering: a 60-foot section of steep terrain where a stone bridge with three arches was built to span the mountain gap. The arches, blending seamlessly into the surrounding cliffs, highlighted the ingenuity and craftsmanship that went into building the road. From here, the views stretched endlessly, with the sheer drop-offs and distant peaks leaving us in awe of the park’s rugged grandeur.
Logan Pass
We stopped at Logan Pass, where the red buses had reserved parking, which was a welcome relief since this spot is always bustling with visitors. Despite the large parking lot, it tends to fill up quickly because Logan Pass is the starting or ending point for several iconic hikes, like the Highline Trail and Hidden Lake Trail.
Our driver informed us that our stop needed to be brief and was primarily for anyone who needed to use the restrooms. As we exited the bus and walked around, we were greeted with breathtaking views. To the north, we could see Mount Clements towering over the landscape, and to the south, Reynolds Mountain stood proudly in the distance.
At 6,646 feet, Logan Pass is the highest point along the Going-to-the-Sun Road and offers an incredible alpine environment. The harsh conditions here make it impossible for trees to grow, so instead, we saw low-growing alpine plants, wildflower meadows, and rocky terrain. The wildflowers were in full bloom, creating a colorful contrast against the rugged peaks surrounding us.
We decided to walk down and get our pictures next to a Logan Pass sign that stated its elevation and its significance of being on the Continental Divide. There was a small line but it moved quickly and people helped each other with the pictures. With our remaining time, we walked around and admired the scenery while reading the scattered information signs.
Logan Pass to St Marys
As our tour continued west on the narrow Going-to-the-Sun Road, the breathtaking scenery was matched only by the road’s thrilling design. Low stone barriers guarded the sheer drop-offs on one side, offering a sense of security and unobstructed views of the dramatic landscape below.
We reached the iconic 408-foot tunnel carved through Piegan Mountain within a few miles. Constructed in 1932, this tunnel presented one of the most significant challenges during the road’s creation. With power tools unavailable, crews relied on hand tools and dynamite, working tirelessly in 24-hour shifts. Progress was painstakingly slow, with workers advancing just five feet per day. Despite these challenges, the tunnel was completed as a testament to the determination and ingenuity of the early 20th-century laborers.
Beyond the tunnel, we approached Siyeh Bend, a dramatic curve in the road that also marks a subtle transition in the park’s ecosystems. The high-elevation subalpine vegetation gives way to lush forested landscapes, showcasing the park’s incredible biodiversity. The sharp turn also provided sweeping views of the surrounding valleys and mountains, a stunning contrast of rugged terrain and verdant greenery.
As we descended toward St. Mary Lake, the landscape bore the scars of the 2015 Reynolds Creek Fire, a devastating wildfire that consumed over 4,000 acres and closed sections of the park for weeks. The charred remains of trees stood starkly against the vibrant regrowth of wildflowers and grasses, a poignant reminder of nature’s resilience.
We followed the north shore of St. Mary Lake, a breathtaking expanse of water framed by towering peaks. The lake’s surface was so calm that it mirrored the surrounding mountains, creating a stunning reflection that felt almost surreal. This iconic lake, the second largest in Glacier National Park, is fed by glacial runoff, which gives it its brilliant turquoise hue.
As we neared the town of St. Mary at the eastern edge of the lake, the transition from wilderness to civilization was marked by the small cluster of buildings signaling the gateway to Glacier’s eastern side.
Johnson’s of St Marys
We stopped at Johnsons of St. Mary for lunch, a rustic gem nestled on a bluff with breathtaking views of St. Mary Lake. Our driver mentioned that she had been able to secure the reservations through another Red Bus driver who could not make it. This charming, log cabin-style restaurant has been serving hearty meals since 1950, and the ambiance matched its long history. The interior was filled with classic Montana décor, including painted bison skulls, bear pelts, antlers, and hunting trophies that gave the place an authentic frontier feel.
I decided to try the special for lunch: an open buffalo meatloaf sandwich and a bowl of buffalo barley soup. Lisa ordered a BLT on homemade bread and a cup of buffalo barley soup. While waiting for our food, we took the opportunity to walk around the restaurant and admire the various artwork, funny displays, and other displays.
We returned to the table at about the same time as our food did. The meatloaf was served on homemade bread with a generous helping of mashed potatoes and gravy covering it. The meatloaf was rich, tender, and flavorful, perfectly complemented by the buffalo barley soup. The soup had a hearty, earthy taste, with chunks of tender buffalo meat and grains that added a nice texture. Lisa stated that her BLT on the same soft, but slightly crunchy, homemade bread was exceptional.
While we were settling in, the owner came over to greet us. He was a friendly, down-to-earth man who proudly shared his connection to his Blackfoot roots and the food he served. With a smile, he explained that he had personally hunted the animals used in their dishes, adding a personal and authentic touch to the dining experience. Clearly, he took great pride in the restaurant’s legacy and its ties to the local culture and wildlife.
After we ate, we admired the view outside of the rugged landscape of St. Mary Lake stretched out before us, framed by the towering peaks of Glacier National Park. The food, decorations, owner’s hospitality, and the location’s beauty made Johnsons of St. Mary a memorable stop on our journey.
St Marys to Many Glacier Lodge
We left St. Mary and headed north on US-89, making our way toward the Many Glacier area. As we turned off the highway at Babb, we began our journey down the familiar, dusty, and uneven road that hugs the shoreline of Lake Shelburne. The road, though a bit bumpy, offered scenic views of the lake, with its still waters reflecting the surrounding mountains.
As we neared Many Glacier Lodge, an unexpected but exciting sight caught our attention. Off in the distance, about 200 yards from the bus, we spotted a group of black bears chasing each other in a field. The cubs were busy running back and forth through the tall grass, completely unaware of the people watching from the road. The Red Bus paused on the side of the road for several minutes so we could watch the bears.
Many Glacier Lodge
When we arrived at Many Glacier Lodge, we were immediately greeted by a herd of mountain goats wandering near the entrance. A fun surprise.
Many Glacier Lodge is situated on the east shore of Swiftcurrent Lake. The lodge was built in 1915 and exudes a historic charm, with a design that reflects the popular Swiss alpine architecture at the time. The structure is a series of chalets, rising to four stories tall, and it stretches along the lakeshore, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the crystal-clear lake. The lodge’s foundation is stone, with a wooden superstructure that blends beautifully with the natural surroundings. The exterior features brown-painted wood siding, while the window framing and balconies are adorned with intricate Swiss jigsawed patterns, giving the building a rustic yet refined look.
Inside, the grandeur of the lodge continues. The four-story lobby is the heart of the hotel, with towering beams and exposed wooden rafters. Balconies overlook the lobby, with railings that feature Swiss-style carvings. The cozy yet expansive space offers a sense of warmth and nostalgia for an era when visitors would travel long distances to experience the untouched beauty of the American wilderness.
We spent some time wandering through the lodge, taking in its rich history and unique architecture. After exploring the interior, we headed out to the outdoor patio, where we sat back, and enjoyed the serene views of Swiftcurrent Lake and its towering peaks.
Bear Climbing Cliff
On our way back to Babb, we encountered a bear in the middle of the road and watched him climb up a cliff to escape. His swift climb surprised all of us.
Many Glacier to Logan Pass
Many Glacier marked the end of our route, and we began our return journey along the same roads, retracing our path toward St. Mary and beyond. This time, we could stop at some overlooks we’d missed earlier in the day due to full parking spots.
Our first stop was the Wild Goose Island Overlook on St. Mary Lake, one of the most photographed scenes in Glacier National Park. Wild Goose Island, a tiny patch of land rising only 14 feet above the lake’s surface, is framed by the striking peaks of the surrounding mountains and the expansive waters of St. Mary Lake. Its small size creates a captivating contrast against the grandeur of the landscape, making it a favorite spot for photographers and nature enthusiasts.
Farther along the road, we stopped at the Jackson Glacier Overlook, one of the most accessible viewpoints for observing a glacier in the park. Jackson Glacier, the seventh largest of the 25 remaining glaciers in Glacier National Park, lies 5.5 miles from the overlook. Nestled in a cirque, a natural amphitheater-shaped formation carved by ancient glaciers, Jackson Glacier is a stark reminder of the park’s glacial history. With its steep, rounded walls, the cirque is a testament to the immense forces of ice that once sculpted this landscape during the last Ice Age.
Standing at the overlook, we learned that Jackson Glacier has shrunk significantly over the decades. In 1966, the glacier covered 316 acres, but by 2015, it had diminished to just 187 acres—a reduction of nearly half. The sight was both awe-inspiring and sobering, as it underscored the ongoing impacts of climate change on Glacier National Park’s namesake features.
Logan Pass
This was our second visit to Logan Pass, and we decided to take the opportunity to explore the inside of the Visitor Center. As expected, the place was bustling with visitors, making it an energetic hub for those eager to learn about the park.
Inside, the Visitor Center housed a small but well-stocked bookstore offering a range of items, including guidebooks, maps, souvenirs, and educational materials. At the information counter, friendly park rangers were busy answering questions and helping visitors plan their hikes and activities. A display area showcased interpretive exhibits on the region’s animals, plants, and ecosystems, offering a closer look at the unique alpine environment surrounding Logan Pass. We found it fascinating to learn about the flora and fauna that thrive in such harsh conditions, from the vibrant wildflowers of the subalpine meadows to the resilient mountain goats and bighorn sheep.
Outside, we encountered a large marmot scurrying around the benches, clearly unafraid of the crowd. It seemed to be on the lookout for any food scraps left behind by visitors, a reminder of the importance of following Leave No Trace principles to protect wildlife.
After filling our water bottles at a dispenser, we returned to the bus to continue the tour.
Logan Pass to Apgar Visitor Center
Descending the Going-to-the-Sun Road, we hugged the Garden Wall, a sheer cliff that provided sweeping views of the glacially carved valleys below. This iconic stretch of road, with its stone guardrails and narrow passages, epitomizes the engineering marvel that makes this scenic drive possible. We paused at a viewpoint to look down into McDonald Creek Canyon and the Lake McDonald Valley.
Continuing downward, we eventually reached McDonald Creek Canyon. Here, we made our final stop along McDonald Creek to admire its shimmering waters. Following the creek we eventually reached the shoreline of Lake McDonald, which then led us to the Apgar Visitor Center.
Reflecting on the day, I felt an overwhelming sense of satisfaction with the Red Bus Tour. It was not only a convenient way to experience Glacier National Park’s highlights but also an enriching one, thanks to our driver’s knowledge and storytelling. From the heart-stopping mountain passes to the serene beauty of the valleys, the tour offered a well-rounded glimpse of the park’s unparalleled grandeur. It was a day filled with awe, learning, and memories.