Friday, 16 Aug
The Journey from Palmer to Valdez
Today, we embarked on a long 262-mile drive from Palmer to Valdez, with the skies heavily overcast and low-lying clouds shrouding the landscape.
As we headed east along the Glenn Highway, we traversed the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, flanked by the Chugach Mountains to the south and the Talkeetna Mountains to the north. However, the clouds obscured most towering peaks, leaving only glimpses of their grandeur.
The highway followed the Matanuska River, winding through steep, forested riverbanks. Beyond Sutton, the terrain grew even more mountainous, and the highway began to ascend into the higher elevations, setting the stage for more dramatic landscapes as we continued our journey.
Matanuska Glacier
About an hour east of Palmer, the valley began to open up, revealing the awe-inspiring Matanuska Glacier in the distance. The glacier appeared as a massive river of ice descending from the towering Chugach Mountains, its blue-white expanse contrasting sharply with the surrounding rugged terrain. The landscape here was truly dramatic—jagged cliffs rose up on either side, while the glacier’s path was lined with glacial moraines, deposits of rock and debris pushed along by the slow-moving ice. Below, the meltwater from the glacier coursed through braided rivers, winding and splitting into multiple channels as it made its way toward the Matanuska River.
The Matanuska Glacier spans an impressive 27 miles and stretches 4 miles across, making it one of the largest glaciers in the United States accessible by road. For thousands of years, the glacier has been slowly shaping the Matanuska River Valley, gradually advancing and retreating, leaving evidence of its passage in moraines, boulders, and sediment. As a valley glacier, it moves at a steady pace—typically around one foot per day—inch by inch, carving its way through the valley and shaping the terrain with its immense weight and slow, relentless movement.
Glenn Highway (cont)
Leaving the Matanuska Glacier area, we began our ascent into the Chugach Mountains, where the terrain became progressively more rugged. The road wound through steep hillsides and sharp curves, presenting dramatic views of the mountainous landscape. As we continued, the terrain shifted from lush, forested river valleys to more challenging, jagged mountains with deep ravines and fast-moving rivers. Dense forests surrounded us, gradually thinning out as the highway climbed higher. The landscape transitioned into alpine tundra as we reached the higher elevations, with fewer trees and more exposed rock. By the time we reached Eureka Summit, at an elevation of 3,322 feet, the land became more barren, offering sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Beyond Eureka Summit, the road began its descent, leading us into a region of rolling hills and expansive boreal forests. Tall spruce trees and trembling aspens lined the highway, creating a peaceful, wooded backdrop. The terrain gradually flattened, and we entered a broad, open valley as we neared Glennallen. The expansive vistas starkly contrasted with the rugged mountain terrain we had just crossed.
Just past Glennallen, we made a stop at a large Tesoro gas station. It was incredibly busy, and we had to wait for a while in line at the pumps. Even the indoor bathrooms had a line of people waiting. A row of about twenty port-a-potties was set up outside, but we decided to be patient and wait for our turn inside.
Richardson Highway
As we turned south onto the Richardson Highway (AK-4), Alaska’s first official highway, we were met with construction that delayed us for about 20 minutes. While waiting, a friendly flagperson came over to chat. She told us about some of her favorite places to eat in Valdez and shared a few stories about the challenges she faces at work, particularly during high winds.
Once the construction cleared, we continued southward, bypassing the Wrangell-Elias Visitor Center due to the congestion caused by the roadwork. We carried on through the relatively flat Copper River Basin. Unfortunately, the low cloud cover obscured our view of the Wrangell Mountains to the east, but we could still catch glimpses of the Copper River winding its way through the valley.
As we drove further south, the terrain began to change, becoming more rugged. We encountered rolling hills and dense spruce forests, signaling the start of the more mountainous landscape ahead.
Approaching Thompson Pass, the road began to climb sharply, and the fog grew so thick that visibility became a real challenge. At 2,678 feet, Thompson Pass is the highest point on the Richardson Highway, and although we passed by the Worthington Glacier, the dense fog blocked any chance of seeing it.
The fog persisted as we descended into Keystone Canyon, though it cleared up slightly as we continued into the canyon. This narrow gorge, flanked by steep cliffs, is home to several stunning waterfalls, including the dramatic Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls. The misty surroundings added to the beauty of the landscape, making it even more mystical.
As we approached the coastal region, the terrain became more forested, with thick stands of spruce, hemlock, and alder. The final approach into Valdez transitioned into a coastal environment, with the terrain becoming wetter and greener due to Valdez’s heavy precipitation, creating a lush, temperate rainforest feel as we arrived at the port town.
Valdez
Valdez gained prominence in the late 1890s during the Klondike Gold Rush. Many prospectors used Valdez as a starting point for their trek to the Yukon goldfields. A route known as the Valdez Glacier Trail provided a challenging pathway to the interior.
Founding of Valdez: In 1897, Valdez was officially founded as a port town for gold seekers. The trail to the Klondike turned out to be treacherous, leading to the construction of the Valdez-Fairbanks Trail, which later became part of the Richardson Highway.
In the early 20th century, Valdez became an important supply hub for the U.S. military, especially during World War II, due to its strategic location and ice-free harbor. The Great Alaska Earthquake of 1964, the most powerful earthquake recorded in North American history, nearly destroyed Valdez. After the earthquake, it rebuilt at a new location, about 4 miles west of the original town site. Completing the Trans-Alaska Pipeline in 1977 transformed Valdez into a major shipping point for Alaskan oil. The 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill caused long-lasting effects on the local ecosystem and economy.
Today, Valdez remains a small but important port town and a fishing, tourism, and oil transportation hub.
Bear Paw Adult Camper Park
We reached Bear Paw Adult Camper Park around 4 pm. The RV park, nestled at the entrance to Valdez Harbor in the heart of downtown, was a cozy, adult-only spot with a charming atmosphere. The park was relatively small, consisting of only about 25 full-hookup sites, but its prime location made up for the limited space. Despite being a bit crowded, we were fortunate to secure a great site at the water’s edge. From there, we had an excellent vantage point, with clear views of the boats making their way in and out of the harbor entrance.
Valdez Brewing
After setting up the camper, we took a short walk to Valdez Brewing, just a few blocks from the campground. Inside, we ordered a flight of beers to try a range of their offerings. The selection included the rich and malty Wee Rugged Scottish Ale, the smooth and easy-drinking Miner’s Dream Blonde, the crisp Prop Wash Pilsner with a hint of hops, and the well-balanced Derby Queen Lager with a touch of sweetness.
Adjacent to the brewery, Poor Betty’s’s eatery offered Cajun-style food with an Alaskan twist. They proudly source local halibut when in season, use bread from the French Oven Bakery, and craft their sauces and seasoning blends from scratch. I opted for their halibut box, featuring perfectly fried fish and seasoned fries, while Lisa chose a flavorful wrap sandwich. After placing our order, we received a beeper to notify us when our food was ready. Once it was prepared, we brought it into the brewery to enjoy alongside our beer.
We enjoyed our beers while observing the local crowd, which seemed to be primarily fishermen and outdoor workers.
Saturday, 17 Aug
City of Valdez
We left the campground around 9 a.m. and went to Kelsey Dock, just next door. As the main commercial dock for Valdez, it offered a nice spot to walk around, though the low cloud cover prevented us from seeing the surrounding scenic mountains. Despite that, the views of the water were still quite pleasant. The dock also featured several interesting statues that caught our attention.
Next, we drove to the westernmost point of Valdez, where the road dead-ended at the foot of the mountains and Mineral Creek. This area was marked on my map as a spot where bears are frequently spotted, though we didn’t see any wildlife. We stopped anyway and took a short walk along the glacier-fed, braided creek.
From there, we headed to the northern part of the city, where we came across the schools and hospital. This area, too, is dead-ended against the mountains.
As we drove around town, we couldn’t help but notice the high number of fire hydrants. Later, we learned this was due to Valdez’s proximity to the oil industry, the harsh weather, and the city’s history of fires.
We decided to head toward Glacier View Park next. We stopped at some informational signs along the road just outside the city. One of the signs mentioned how the Pacific Steam and Whaling Company had deceived over 4,000 people during the Klondike Gold Rush, convincing them to come to Valdez despite the near-impossibility of crossing the Valdez Glacier to reach the interior.
Glacier View Park
Glacier View Park is located about 5 miles outside Valdez, at the end of Airport Road, just past the airport. The park offers a peaceful retreat with breathtaking views and a chance to experience the raw beauty of Alaska’s wilderness.
As we drove past the airport, we observed several large buildings labeled “mancamps.” These sizable dormitory-style structures were originally constructed to house the temporary workforce required for the oil and construction industries in the area. Today, the mancamps provide affordable accommodations, with 150 private rooms, meals, and amenities like a recreation center and gym. Open year-round, they offer a place to stay for workers and travelers alike who may be passing through or needing lodging.
The final stretch of the road to the park was a bit more rugged, with several ruts that made for a bumpy ride. As we navigated the uneven terrain, we couldn’t help but appreciate how remote and unspoiled the area felt, adding to the sense of adventure.
Upon arrival at Glacier View Park, we were greeted by the magnificent sight of Valdez Glacier Lake. The lake was filled with icebergs that had calved off the Valdez Glacier, floating serenely in the clear waters. While the glacier once extended to the park until the 1950s, it has been retreating over the decades, and by the 2010s, it had moved around the bend of the lake. Though the glacier is no longer visible from the park, visitors can still paddle kayaks into the lake and get a closer look. When we arrived, we saw a vendor preparing kayaks and several adventurers gearing up to explore the lake up close.
We walked along the rocky shoreline, taking in the beauty of the icebergs drifting in the lake. As we walked, we marveled at the glacial striations etched into the boulders—deep grooves carved over millennia by the slow but powerful movement of the glacier. It was humbling to think about how much history was written into the landscape around us.
As we were leaving the park, we had a moment of unexpected excitement when a black bear limped across the road in front of us.
Port Valdez
We returned to Valdez and decided to explore the southern shore of Port Valdez. Our first stop was off Dayville Road, where we pulled over at the Lowe River bridge. The river flows through Keystone Canyon and is fed by the glacial meltwaters from the nearby Chugach Mountains, creating a unique and vibrant landscape.
Afterward, we turned onto Terminal Access Road, which runs along the southern shoreline of Port Valdez. This scenic route provided stunning views of Valdez across the water, framed by the surrounding mountains. As we drove, we spotted several sea lions lounging on the buoys, so we decided to stop and look closer. While parked, we were treated to the sight of sea lions feeding on salmon near the shore. It was fascinating to watch them hunt, and we stayed for a while to enjoy the natural spectacle.
Continuing along the road, we made our way to the end of Terminal Access Road, where the Alyeska Pipeline terminus is located. Here, massive Aboveground Storage Tanks hold oil until it can be transferred to tankers for shipment. Since the area was restricted, we could not get too close, so we turned around and headed back.
We stopped at the Solomon Gulch Hatchery on our way back toward Valdez.
Solomon Gulch Hatchery
The Solomon Gulch Hatchery, established in 1981 and operated by the Valdez Fisheries Development Association (VFDA), plays a crucial role in enhancing the salmon populations in the region. Each year, the hatchery incubates approximately 270 million pink salmon eggs and 2 million coho salmon eggs, releasing around 250 million pink salmon fry and 1.8 million coho salmon smolts into the wild.
The hatchery is next to Solomon Gulch Creek, which flows down a bluff and empties into the Port of Valdez. A weir is placed across the creek to control the passage of fish. The facility includes an incubation building, outdoor rearing tanks, a fish ladder, and several viewing platforms where visitors can observe the fascinating process.
The Solomon Gulch Hydroelectric Project, located about 3,900 feet upstream and 600 feet above the hatchery, consists of a dam and a reservoir. Water is diverted down through large pipes, which powers turbines to generate electricity.
When we arrived, the scene was bustling with activity. Thousands of salmon were desperately trying to swim upstream, with numerous gulls soaring overhead, ready to swoop down for a meal. A dozen or more stellar sea lions were gathered near the shore, enjoying the abundance of fish below them. Nearby, a bear wandered along the shoreline, occasionally plunging into the water to catch a fish.
We spent some time watching the bear from the parking lot. Afterward, we walked over to the hatchery building and the fish ladder. It was incredible to witness the salmon fighting their way up the ladder.
Keystone Canyon and Thompson Pass
We then decided to visit Worthington Glacier, about 30 miles from Valdez. Our journey along the Richardson Highway took us through Keystone Canyon and alongside the Lowe River.
Keystone Canyon is not only stunning, with its dramatic rock walls and cascading waterfalls, but it also holds historical significance as an early transportation route. During the Klondike Gold Rush of the 1890s, the Valdez-Eagle Trail was carved through the area to connect the coast to the interior. Later, the U.S. Army improved the trail, integrating it into the Richardson Highway in the early 1900s.
In the early 20th century, plans to construct a railroad through the canyon sparked intense competition between rival companies, culminating in the infamous “Battle of Keystone Canyon.” This confrontation between armed groups left the project incomplete, and the envisioned railroad was never built. A partially completed tunnel, a relic of this era, still stands today as a reminder of the ambitious but unrealized efforts.
The weather was clear and beautiful, starkly contrasting the cloudy and foggy conditions we experienced when descending into Valdez the previous day. For the first time, we could fully appreciate the surrounding mountain peaks. Along the way, we made several stops to take in the sights, including Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls, both flowing with glacial meltwater. We also paused to explore the partially completed railroad tunnel, marveling at the history etched into the canyon’s walls.
Worthington Glacier
Worthington Glacier, designated a State Recreation Site in 1968, offers visitors a unique opportunity to experience one of Alaska’s accessible glaciers up close. Located at milepost 29 on the Richardson Highway, this area is managed to preserve its natural beauty while providing educational and recreational opportunities. The site’s paved paths and interpretive displays make it an ideal stop for those wanting to learn more about glaciers and the surrounding environment.
From the parking lot, the glacier appeared smaller than anticipated, primarily due to the black gravel and sediment covering significant portions of its surface. This debris, carried down by the glacier’s movement, creates a protective layer that slows melting but also diminishes the striking white and blue ice typically associated with glaciers.
A paved path led us to a viewing platform, offering a panoramic perspective of the glacier and its surroundings. From this vantage point, we could see the glacier’s rugged contours, but access to the ice itself was not possible. Another trail descended toward the glacial lake at the glacier’s base, where chunks of ice floated in the cold, turquoise waters. The lake, fed by glacial melt, serves as a visual reminder of the glacier’s ongoing retreat—a phenomenon occurring at an accelerated pace in recent decades due to climate change.
A small shelter housed a series of interpretive panels. These signs provided fascinating information about glaciers, their formation, and the unique characteristics of Worthington Glacier. Visitors could learn about the glacier’s role in shaping the landscape, its geological history, and the environmental challenges affecting its future.
Revisited Solomon Gulch Hatchery
Since we had enjoyed our earlier visit, we decided to return to the Solomon Gulch Hatchery around 4 p.m. With the tide now lower, more fish were visible, stranded in the shallows and struggling to find deeper water. The number of sea lions had increased slightly, though only a few were actively feeding.
One of the highlights was watching the seagulls create a carousel of sorts by floating down a narrow water channel toward the weir, only to take flight and circle back upstream. Their antics added a lively and amusing element to the bustling activity of the hatchery.
Original Valdez Townsite
Original Valdez Townsite refers to the original location of the town before its relocation following the catastrophic 1964 Good Friday Earthquake. Founded during the late 19th century Klondike Gold Rush, Valdez was a gateway for prospectors seeking a route to the interior goldfields. It quickly grew into a small but bustling port town.
The 1964 earthquake, one of the most powerful ever recorded at a magnitude of 9.2, devastated Old Valdez. Underwater landslides triggered by the quake caused the harbor area to collapse, destroying docks and infrastructure. Many buildings were severely damaged or completely lost, and the disaster was compounded by a massive tsunami that swept through the area, leaving destruction in its wake.
Due to the extensive damage and the ground instability, it was deemed unsafe to rebuild on the original site. The decision was made to relocate the town to a more secure location about four miles west. Over the next several years, buildings were either moved or reconstructed at the new site, creating the modern town of Valdez.
Today, Old Town Valdez is a quiet, overgrown area that serves as a historical site. Visitors can explore remnants of the town’s past and read interpretive signs detailing its history, the earthquake, and the subsequent relocation. These signs provide a glimpse into the challenges faced by the community and the resilience that shaped the Valdez we know today.
Crooked Creek Information Site
The Crooked Creek Information Site, managed by the U.S. Forest Service, was closed when we arrived after 5 p.m., but that didn’t deter us from exploring the area. What caught our attention first were the wood carvings near the entrance—one depicting a fisherman and the other a bear.
As we admired the carvings and snapped some photos, we noticed a humorous detail: the fisherman had accidentally hooked the bear! Not visible in our photos, a fishing line extended from the fishing pole to the bear’s mouth, adding a playful touch to the artwork. It gave us a good laugh.
The site also featured several interpretive signs that delved into the local ecosystem. These explained the critical role salmon play in sustaining the area’s wildlife, the importance of preserving their habitats, and how salmon migrations support the region’s natural balance. Behind the center, a small spawning stream trickled down a modest waterfall. Unfortunately, no fish were present at the time.
At a bridge near the parking lot entrance, we were rewarded with the sight of salmon actively spawning. Watching the fish in their breeding grounds was fascinating.
Valdez Small Boat Harbor
Next, we headed over to the Valdez Small Boat Harbor. The harbor was full of vessels, from sleek pleasure boats to sturdy fishing vessels and large charter boats gearing up for tourism excursions.
The skies had cleared up significantly since earlier in the day, revealing the majestic mountain peaks that framed the harbor. The snow-dusted summits stood tall against a backdrop of blue sky, adding a dramatic touch to the sparkling waters below.
We lingered for a while, taking in the breathtaking views and capturing photos of the boats set against the towering Chugach Mountains. It was a perfect spot to soak in the unique charm of Valdez—a harmonious blend of rugged wilderness and maritime culture.
Bear Paw Adult RV Camp
When we returned to our camper, we heard the horn from a Coast Guard vehicle that appeared to be rescuing another boat.
Sunday, 18 Aug
Stan Stephens Glacier Wildlife Cruise
The next day, we embarked on an incredible 7.5-hour Meares Glacier Excursion with Stan Stephens Wildlife Cruises, a highly anticipated adventure through the breathtaking Prince William Sound. The cruise was aboard the Valdez Spirit, an impressive 82-foot aluminum catamaran. Though rain was forecasted, we were fortunate that the weather cooperated, with the rain holding off until after our return from Meares Glacier.
The excursion exceeded all expectations. I spent most of the trip outside on the rear deck, fully immersing myself in the stunning scenery and fresh ocean air. Occasionally, I ventured indoors to take advantage of the delicious food and warm hospitality.
The day began with a light breakfast of a fresh bagel and spreads, perfect for the early start. Later, a hot lunch was served, featuring Chicken Alfredo on a bed of rice, steamed vegetables, a soft dinner roll, and a selection of cookies for dessert. The food was hearty and satisfying, complementing the chill of the outdoor air. In the afternoon, they provided a comforting bowl of chowder as a snack—a welcome treat after hours on the water.
Throughout the journey, complimentary beverages, including coffee, tea, water, and lemonade, were available, ensuring we stayed refreshed while enjoying the remarkable surroundings. The combination of stunning vistas, wildlife sightings, and excellent onboard service made this cruise a highlight of our trip.
Some of the wildlife we saw included Eagles, Horned Puffins, Sea Otters, Orcas, Seagulls, Black-Legged Kittiwakes, Cormorants, Harbor Seals, Salmon, and Stellar Sea Lions.
Mears Glacier
The undeniable highlight of the trip was reaching Meares Glacier, a magnificent tidewater glacier located in the Unakwik Inlet. Meares Glacier is one of the few advancing glaciers in the region, making it an extraordinary sight to behold.
As we approached, the glacier’s towering face appeared, a stunning wall of ice stretched for hundreds of feet. Because the glacier is advancing, we eagerly anticipated witnessing calving—the dramatic process where massive chunks of ice break off and crash into the water below. The sounds of the glacier were mesmerizing: deep, resonant cracks and groans as it strained and shifted. Although most of the calving we observed was smaller-scale, the sight and sound of even these minor icefalls were thrilling. The glacier’s forward movement was evident as its edges bulldozed dirt and uprooted trees.
Adding to the spectacle, sea otters dotted the icebergs floating in front of the glacier. These playful marine mammals find these glacial environments ideal because of the abundant food supply and safety they offer. The nutrients released during glacier calving promote the growth of plankton, which supports a rich food chain of marine life, including the sea otters’ favorite prey: sea urchins, crabs, mollusks, and fish. The icebergs serve as platforms for the otters to rest, eat, and raise their young safely away from predators like orcas and sharks. Their dense fur also helps them thrive in the frigid waters, making this environment perfect for their needs.
The crew fished a chunk of iceberg out of the water and passed it around among the passengers. Everyone took turns posing for photos, holding the clear, crystalline ice with the imposing Meares Glacier as the backdrop.
The return cruise was much faster, and a fog was rolling in, covering most of the peaks. We arrived back in Valdez around 5 pm.