Wednesday, 17 July
Drive from Fort Nelson to Laird Hot Springs
The overnight low was 59 degrees, while daytime temperatures hit the mid-90s.We traveled 190 miles to Laird Hot Springs Provincial Park.
As we left Fort Nelson, we passed dense boreal forests full of wildlife. In the distance, we started catching glimpses of the Rocky Mountains. We crossed several rivers and passed beautiful lakes, including the Liard River. The rolling hills and valleys created a varied and enjoyable drive.
Fifty miles into the trip, we climbed Steamboat Mountain, which had 10% grades in some spots and a summit of 3,460 feet.
At 70 miles, we stopped at Tetsa River Lodge to pick up some highly recommended cinnamon rolls. The lodge’s small restaurant was busy serving breakfast. The rolls were straight out of the oven and nice and gooey. They placed them in Styrofoam containers for me to take with me.
We stopped at the Tetsa River bridge, where I explored the river underneath the bridge.
At 85 miles, we crossed Summit Lake Pass, at 4,254 feet, the highest point on the Alaska highway. Here, we found some Stone sheep grazing along the road.
At 112 miles, we stopped at the Racing River Bridge, where I explored underneath the bridge again. At 116 miles, we stopped at the Toad River Lodge to get some gas.
At 125 miles, we stopped for a picnic lunch along the Toad River. The pull-off gave us beautiful views of the glacier-blue water and the mountainous landscape.
At 148 miles, we stopped at the Double G Resort to buy their cinnamon rolls, which were also recommended. These were much larger and dryer than the first ones we bought. I enjoyed reading some funny but naughty signs on the restaurant’s walls.
At 121 miles, we reached Muncho Lake with its turquoise waters.
As we approached Laird Hot Springs, the landscape became more lush and green, thanks to the warm micro-climate created by the hot springs. About 30 minutes from the campground, we found a bear grazing beside the highway.
At 188 miles, we crossed the 1943 Lower Laird Bridge, the only remaining suspension bridge on the Alaska Highway. Because of road/bridge maintenance, there was a backup on the bridge.
Laird Hot Springs Provincial Park
Because of the limited camping spots in the park, the wagonmaster decided to park us together in the overflow parking area just outside the park, where we would have to boondock. We were tightly packed side-by-side, but people still had room to extend their slides. Though it was a little warm, our overhead fans, powered by my lithium battery, kept us cool enough. Some people in the caravan had generators, but they were told that the park would not let them run them after 10 p.m.
Laird Hot Springs Provincial Park is home to Canada’s second-largest natural hot springs. The main pool, known as Alpha Pool, has water temperatures ranging from108°F to 126°F. The springs are set in a lush boreal forest, often called the “Tropical Valley” due to the warm microclimate created by the springs. This unique environment supports diverse plant and animal life, including 14 species of orchids and frequent moose sightings.
The spring area had a change house, composting toilets, and a boardwalk leading to the hot springs pools. The boardwalk passed through a warm-water swamp and boreal forest, providing a scenic and accessible route to the springs.