Friday, 7 June
The Journey from Sioux Falls, SD to Pelican Lake Recreation Area, Waterton, SD
Before leaving Sioux Falls for our next destination, we decided to grab breakfast. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any interesting local spots on Google, so we settled on Cracker Barrel. Afterward, we swung by Abby Normal’s Museum of Oddities to check if it was open. The museum’s Facebook and Google listings had conflicting hours, but sadly, it was closed. I should’ve called ahead to save us 30 minutes.
After returning to the camper and packing, we headed north on I-29 toward Watertown, SD, and the Pelican Lake Recreation Area, about 119 miles away. We encountered light rain but managed to outrun the storm that later hit Sioux Falls. Thankfully, the strong winds from the previous day didn’t follow us.
Pelican Lake Recreation Area
Pelican Lake is a key stopover for migrating waterfowl in the fall, especially pelicans. When we arrived, the lake was dotted with fishing boats but little else. The campground offers 76 campsites, two camping cabins, and six horse campsites.
The only available sites were equestrian, so we booked H2E. I called the rangers to confirm it was okay to camp there, and they reassured me that the site was “horse-friendly” but open to anyone. Interestingly, no one else at the horse camp had horses either. Our site had a long gravel pad, though it sloped heavily on one side. It featured full hookups, a modern aluminum picnic table, a fire pit, and ample space between sites.
Watertown Brewing Company
Once the camper was set up, we drove into Watertown to visit Watertown Brewing Company, located downtown.
The brewery had a wide selection of beers brewed on-site. We sat at the bar and ordered a flight, sampling various options. The beers were well-crafted, with no overpowering flavors or excessive hoppiness. We started a conversation with the brewer, who had studied theater in Kansas City—a shared interest that made for a great chat. He generously let us sample additional beers, including their Cream Ale, Mead, and Smoky Beer. We left with a four-pack of Watertown Lager and Firehouse Red Ale to enjoy later.
Henry the Pheasant
Next, we visited Henry, a giant concrete pheasant built in 1950 to attract tourists to a country store along U.S. Highway 212.
The ring-necked pheasant was introduced to South Dakota in 1908 and became the state bird in 1943. While many towns claim to be the “Pheasant Capital,” Henry, population 261, boasts the heaviest pheasant statue.
The statue was in decent shape, though the paint was faded. Nearby, a concrete donkey called Depression Nag showed some wear. Across the street, there was a small pond with a charming miniature roadside church.
Pelican Lake Recreation Area
Returning to the campground, we explored the recreation area, which had begun to fill up for the weekend. We stopped at the beach and dipped our feet into the chilly water.
The campground facilities were a mix of good and bad. While the shower area showed significant soap scum buildup—untouched despite multiple visits from the cleaning crew—the rest of the amenities were well-maintained.
Saturday, 8 June
Watertown Farmers Market
We left the camper around 8 a.m. to visit the Watertown Farmers Market, hoping to find some local treasures. Unfortunately, the market consisted of only about a half-dozen vendors. We purchased a half-dozen sourdough donuts—which, disappointingly, tasted stale—and a dozen fresh eggs before heading back to the camper for showers and to prepare for the day ahead.
Redlin Art Center
After breakfast, we visited the Redlin Art Center.
Terry Redlin, a celebrated wildlife artist, was born and raised in Watertown, South Dakota. At age 15, he was disabled in a motorcycle accident, which led to a scholarship for disabled students to attend art school. Redlin spent 25 years as a commercial artist before transitioning to full-time wildlife art. His work gained national acclaim, frequently appearing in publications like Ducks Unlimited and The Farmers Magazine. In the 1990s, U.S. Art magazine repeatedly named him “America’s most popular artist.”
In 1985, at his son’s suggestion, Redlin began saving his original pieces for a future gallery. The result was a 52,000-square-foot brick building with landscaped grounds, which opened on June 6, 1997. The center houses over 150 original works spanning three floors, including all originals from 1985 onward. Gift shops offer Redlin’s prints on various items, from framed art to wine bottles and furniture.
Admission was free, and we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the exhibits. Redlin’s use of light—especially twilight—was mesmerizing. Each painting was accompanied by a plaque explaining its scene, often featuring animals and humans in harmony. We also watched a short film in the on-site theater, where Redlin reflected on his life and work.
Holland’s Grist Mill
Our next destination was Holland’s Grist Mill in Milbank.
Built in the 1880s by Henry Hollands, the 44-foot-tall mill featured 30-foot blades to harness South Dakota’s prairie winds. It operated until 1907, when surrounding trees and buildings began obstructing the wind. The mill was restored in 2009.
Although the mill and its visitor center were closed during our visit, we enjoyed walking around the grounds and reading the informational signs about its history.
Purple Cow Ice Cream
We then drove to Waubay to visit the Purple Cow Ice Cream store, taking the scenic route through the Glacial Lakes region. This area, shaped by ancient glaciers, featured a picturesque mix of prairie grass-covered hills, lakes, ponds, and wetlands. It’s easy to see why this region is a hotspot for migratory birds.
Waubay is nestled by one of the region’s largest lakes. As we drove into town, we saw lake cabins, campers, and families enjoying the water. A sand spit extending into the lake offered charming views of small lake shacks and camper pads, with children playing and adults relaxing nearby.
The Purple Cow Ice Cream store was housed in a whimsical purple barn-shaped building. Half the store sold meat, including their popular cinnamon bacon. After snapping some fun photos outside, we ordered generous portions of delicious ice cream and enjoyed it at a picnic table near the store’s large playground.
Museum of Wildlife, Science, and Industry
We visited the Museum of Wildlife, Science, and Industry in Webster. This sprawling museum features 23 buildings housing an eclectic mix of historical collections. Though reviews praised the variety, we opted not to go in and continued to our next destination.
Fort Sisseton Historic State Park
A sign for Fort Sisseton Historic State Park caught our attention, so we made the 20-mile detour to visit it.
Built in 1864 atop the Coteau des Prairies, Fort Wadsworth was initially named Fort Wadsworth. However, to avoid confusion with a fort of the same name in New York, it was later renamed after the nearby Sisseton Tribe. The location was chosen for its natural defenses, abundant resources, and strategic importance in ensuring safe passage for settlers entering the Dakota Territory.
Designated a state historical park in 1959, the site boasts 14 original buildings, most open and furnished with period displays. We especially enjoyed the exhibit honoring a telephone worker-turned-historian who helped preserve the fort. We also learned about the fort’s connections to the Buffalo Soldiers. Overall, this was one of the best-preserved forts we’ve visited, and we were glad we made the trip.
Faulkton Grain Elevator
In Faulkton, we admired Guido van Helten’s breathtaking mural on the town’s grain elevator. Van Helten, an Australian artist known for his photorealistic work, painted the mural in 2018 after spending a month interviewing locals to capture the essence of the community.
The mural depicts a boy and girl exchanging cowboy hats, symbolizing small-town America. The artwork was stunning, and its placement in a remote town of just 800 people made it even more special.
Redfield
On our way back, we passed through Redfield, dubbed the “Pheasant Capital of the United States.” The town proudly displayed its mascot with a giant pheasant statue outside the fire department and another painted on the water tower.
We also stopped at several historical markers just outside town, including:
- Fisher Grove: Site of a former 1878 town, now a state park.
- Pheasant History: Marking the introduction of pheasants to South Dakota.
- Abbie Gardner: Honoring the youngest victim of the Spirit Lake Massacre.
- Council Rock: Recognized as the Indian capital of the Dakotas.
Zesto
We decided to try Zesto, a popular 1950s-style drive-in in Watertown. When we arrived, the line of cars was already long. However, when it was our turn to order, we discovered they were out of buns for hamburgers—my first choice. Disappointed, we left and grabbed McDonald’s before returning to the camper.
Miscellaneous
Other interesting stops along our drive included:
- Wildlife Sighting: A pheasant running through a field, which we captured on video.
- Watertown Cowboy: A 30-foot-tall cowboy statue at Cowboy Country Stores.
- Roadside Markers: Including “The Fight at Webster,” “Pioneering in Dakota Prairie Fires,” and “Birthplace of South Dakota Amateur Baseball.”