Monday, 3 June
Wilson Island State Recreation Area
Wilson Island State Recreation Area, located in western Iowa just outside Omaha, spans 544 acres of tranquil cottonwood stands along the Missouri River. This area holds historical significance, as it was a campsite for Lewis and Clark during their 1804 expedition.
We arrived at the recreation area around 1 p.m. and found it nearly empty, typical for a weekday. The park features 125 campsites, 80 of which offer electricity. Our site, number 37, had a picnic table and fire pit. The gravel pad was level, dry, and spacious, though it lacked shade. It was conveniently located near the clean, modern restroom facilities.
Desoto National Wildlife Refuge
After setting up camp and starting the air conditioner—it was a sweltering 89°F—we visited the DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge spans 8,365 acres along the Missouri River, straddling the Iowa-Nebraska border. It encompasses bottomland forests, tallgrass prairies, and wetlands that mimic the river’s natural floodplain, providing essential habitats for migratory birds during spring and fall.
Our first stop was the visitor center, where we saw the museum and Shipwreck exhibit. Unfortunately, it was closed on Mondays. Despite this setback, we enjoyed the scenic drive through the refuge, admiring its lush landscapes and tranquil oxbow lake, DeSoto Lake—a former bend in the Missouri River.
Loess Hills
Next, we drove north along the Loess Hills National Scenic Byway. These unique hills, spanning 200 miles along the Missouri River, are composed of loess (a German word meaning “loose”), a fine, windblown soil. The Loess Hills’ deep deposits are rivaled only by regions in China, making them a geological treasure. However, their fragility makes them susceptible to erosion, mining, and urban development.
We visited the Loess Hills Forest Overlook in the Loess Hills State Forest. A wooden platform atop a ridgeline offered stunning views, and a nearby monument honored “Walter,” a local artist and organic farmer instrumental in establishing the scenic byways program. Although a mile-long ridge trail beckoned, I only ventured partway.
We continued to the 344-acre Loess Hills State Park, which features picnic shelters, hiking trails, and nine backpack campsites. The park’s eastern section was once a Mormon settlement founded in 1853 by 60 families following Charles B. Thompson. The townsite eventually dissolved as settlers grew disillusioned with their leader and moved on.
After exploring the park, we drove south, following a few byway loops toward Missouri Valley.
Missouri Valley
Our first stop in Missouri Valley was the Harrison County Historical Village & Welcome Center, which had just closed. Undeterred, we wandered outside to view the historical buildings, including a log cabin, drugstore, schoolhouse, and blacksmith shop. Since the village is on the Lincoln Highway, we also saw original mile markers with Lincoln medallions and one of Iowa’s Freedom Rocks painted by Ray “Bubba” Sorenson.
Dinner was at Peggy’s Diner, a charming 1950s-style eatery. We shared a club sandwich while I enjoyed a chocolate banana shake, and Lisa opted for a caramel sundae. Later, I learned Peggy’s is part of a chain of 27 diners built in the 1990s by Avantic Lodging Enterprises, named after the company president’s wife.
After dinner, we refueled and returned to the campground to relax.
Tuesday, 4 June
Bathhouse
I began the day with a shower at the campground’s bathhouse. While the bathrooms were clean, the surrounding area was swarming with ants. The push-button shower offered no temperature control, and the water sprayed in a steady, forceful stream with an unpleasant odor.
DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge
Before heading to our next stop, we revisited the DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge. We paused at a small viewpoint overlooking the Missouri River on the way. Seeing trash floating in the fast-flowing water, including a stray football, was disheartening.
At the visitor center, we explored exhibits featuring stuffed animals representing the refuge’s wildlife and migratory species. The highlight was the Bertrand Steamboat display, housed in a temperature-controlled room. This steamboat sank in 1865, and over 250,000 artifacts—cargo bound for Montana Territory—have since been recovered and preserved. The center also had a large viewing area overlooking the river, ideal for birdwatching during migration seasons.
Afterward, we packed up the camper and headed toward Sioux Falls.