Monday, Aug 8
Four Mile Creek State Park
We drove I-90 most of the way and then I-290 around Buffalo and I-190 across Grand Island and Niagara Falls. We took the Niagara Scenic Parkway to the campground north of Niagara Falls. Arrive at Four Mile Creek State Park around 2 pm.
Four Mile Creek State Park is located just 15 minutes north of the mighty Niagara Falls at the mouth of Four Mile Creek, which flows into Lake Ontario. There are 275 campsites, and 179 of them have electricity. A large marsh at the mouth of Four Mile Creek is home to some wildlife like deer and herons. Amenities include a camp store that was closed while we were there, a playground, and a laundry facility.
We had no shade but electricity and a good view of Lake Ontario, even though the shore was about 200 yards away.
Niagara Falls
After we set up the trailer, we immediately headed off to see Niagara Falls. Parking Lot #1
We first stopped at a gas station within the Tuscarora Nation Indian Territory for gas. They must be exempt from collecting some gas tax because they had the cheapest gas in the area.
We parked in Parking Lot #1 in Niagara Falls State Park. This parking lot is the closest parking lot to Prospect Point. Normally, the parking rate is $10, but because I was camping in a state campground, I was exempt from having to pay. The parking lot was packed, and many cars were looking for parking places, but I was lucky enough to snag one pretty quickly.
After parking, we immediately headed toward Prospect Point, which is the main location for viewing the American Falls on the US side of the falls. The Niagara River drops 50 feet in elevation for 1/2 mile before reaching the brink of the American and Bridal Veil Falls and then plunging 70-110 feet to the rocks below. Luna Island separates American and Bridal Veil Falls.
We then walked across the bridge to Goat Island. The rapids below the bridge were called Hells Half Acre and were incredibly turbulent. Once we reached Goat Island, we walked down to the observation area for Bridal Falls and then over the small pedestrian bridge to Luna Island.
Lisa had reached the end of her walking ability, so we did not go down to Terrapin Point, but we planned to be back. I left Lisa at a large arch near Parking Lot #2 and returned to get the truck. This arch was formerly part of Niagara’s 1895 Adams Generating Station, the world’s first hydroelectric generating facility.
I got the truck and picked Lisa up, and we drove around Goat Island before returning to the campground. We were back at the camper around 6:30.
Tuesday, Aug 9
Old Fort Niagara State Historic Site
I took off at 10 am and headed to Fort Niagara State Park, less than four miles down the road. Once again, it did not cost us anything to enter the park. We stopped at their beach area first to look at the shoreline and across Lake Ontario, where we could see the silhouette of Toronto.
We then drove to the park’s Old Fort Niagara State Historic Site. I had to pay $17/ea for admission because a non-profit organization maintains the fort. A docent first walked us around their small museum and gave us a brief history of the fort. They are especially proud of an old American Flag on display that was “restored.” It was purchased in 1993 from Mrs. Cherry Drummond, great-great-grandniece of Gen. Gordon Drummond, who kept the flag in his Scottish castle and where his family kept it for generations. Though only fragments remain, these fragments were sown on a backing for preservation and display purposes. The flag is older than The Star-Spangled Banner (both the song and the flag) and is the actual flag that was flown at Fort Niagara during the War of 1812.
The docent then led us into the fort, where he gave us a brief orientation before he released us to see a musket firing demonstration. After the demonstration, we walked around the fort which was nicely restored.
The history of Old Fort Niagara spans more than 300 years. The fort was occupied by three nations: France, Great Britain, and the United States. Each competed for the support of a fourth nation: the powerful Iroquois Confederacy. Located at the mouth of the Niagara River, it controlled access to the Great Lakes and the westward route to the continent’s heartland. The French established the first post here, Fort Conti, in 1679. Fort Denonville’s successor (1687-88) was equally short-lived. France finally erected a permanent fortification in 1726 by constructing the impressive “French Castle.” Britain gained control of Fort Niagara in 1759 during the French & Indian War. The British held the post throughout the American Revolution but were forced, by treaty, to yield it to the United States in 1796. Fort Niagara was recaptured by the British in 1813. It was ceded to the United States a second time in 1815 at the end of the War of 1812, after which time it served as a peaceful border post. Old Fort Niagara served as a training station and active barracks from the Civil War until the last army units were withdrawn in 1963.
There were lots of cannons, fortifications, and towers to explore, the centerpiece was the French Castle which was furnished with reproduction furniture. It was also interesting to hear how Fort Niagara could fire into Canada with a cannon on its roof.
Outside the fort, the Old Fort Niagara Lighthouse sits off to the side near the Niagara River. The tower was first lit in 1872 and removed from the French Castle to allow for more room for officer’s quarters. The octagonal lighthouse was constructed out of limestone with a brick lining.
Niagara Power Plant
We followed the Niagara River to the Robert Moses Niagara Power Plant when we left the fort.
It opened in 1961 and was the world’s largest hydropower facility. A 1,900-acre, 22-billion-gallon upper reservoir is filled at night by tunnels above the falls. During the day, when electrical demand is high, water is released from the upper reservoir through pump-generators which generate electricity. The water is then returned to the river’s lower portion near Lake Ontario.
We stopped at the Niagara Power Visitors Center adjacent to the Robert Moses plant. When we entered the building, we were given passes that could be used to interact with exhibits about hydroelectricity. Though we played with a few exhibits, they were made for children, and the center was crowded with several summer camps there. We enjoyed the views from the observation deck, which allowed us to look down at Niagara Gorge.
Niagara Scenic Parkway
We then continued down the Niagara Scenic Parkway and stopped at Devil’s Hole State Park and Whirlpool State Park. Along the Niagara Gorge, these roadside parks had trails on the rim and some access to the river below. It was difficult to look down into the gorge because of all the brush.
Devil’s Hole State Park overlooks the Devil’s Hole Rapids. The Devil’s Hole is a small cave overlooking the falls. A stone staircase with over 400 steps leads down to the base of the gorge and the Devil’s Hole Trail, a 2.4-mile loop trail. The trail is known to be very rough, with steep drops on the riverside, so we decided not to walk it. On September 14, 1763, more than 300 Seneca and other Native Americans attacked a British supply convoy en route from Fort Schlosser to Fort Niagara. The rescue party was also ambushed, resulting in the death of about 100 men. Many of the men killed in the initial attack died because they were driven or jumped into the gorge.
The Niagara Whirlpool is a natural whirlpool in the Niagara River downstream from Niagara Falls. The whirlpool’s greatest depth is 125 feet. It naturally spins counterclockwise but sometimes reverses directions when water is diverted from the hydroelectric power plants. The lower level is accessed by taking the staircase with about 500 old steps, so we stayed on the rim. Jet boat tours run frequently down the rapids to the Whirlpool.
Reservoir State Park
We then went over to Reservoir State Park on the south shore of the Robert Moses Power Plant Reservoir, north of Niagara Falls. We parked near the embankment and watched a kid wipe out on his bicycle, trying to ride down the hill as fast as he could. When I walked up the embankment to see the reservoir, I checked to ensure he was ok.
Tuscarora Heroes Monument & Hibbard’s Custard
We then returned to the campground and stopped at Hibbards in Lewiston for some Custard.
Before going to the restaurant, we walked to the Tuscarora Heroes Monument. This 2013 monument stands as a testament of thanksgiving from the people of Lewiston to the Tuscarora Nation for saving the lives of dozens of residents during the War of 1812. After Fort Niagara fell, The British-Canadians, along with their unrestrained “Western Indian” allies, ran down River Road toward Lewiston, intent on retribution and turning Lewiston into a pile of ashes. Local Tuscarora men ran down from their village atop the Escarpment and offered the first resistance the enemy had seen. Despite being outnumbered 30 to 1, the Tuscaroras could buy the escaping residents enough time to escape harm’s way.
We then walked over to the 1939 Hibbard’s Original Old-Fashioned Frozen Custard stand to get some custard. This store is the sixth oldest family-owned, continuously operated frozen custard stand in the United States, and it still operates from its original location.
National Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima
We then decided to drive over to the nearby National Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima. This shrine was started in 1963, dedicated in 1965, and in 1975, Pope Paul VI conferred the title of Basilica upon it.
The basilica has a 100-foot glass dome depicting a contour of the Northern Hemisphere. On top of the dome is a statue of Our Lady of Fatima, which is 13 feet high and weighs 10 tons, sculpted from Vermont granite. A metal staircase to a platform was at the top of the dome. In front of the basilica was “The Avenue of Saints,” with a heart-shaped fountain and over one hundred life-size marble statues of Saints.
We got back to the camper around 6 pm. We then walked down to the Lake Ontario shore, where we saw a large lake freighter and the skyline of Toronto off in the distance.
Wednesday, Aug 10
Niagara Falls
Terrapin Point
We took off around 9 am and headed to Niagara Falls—this time, we parked in Parking Lot #2 on Goat Island near Terrapin Point. Terrapin Point is where you go on the American side of Niagara Falls when you want to see Horseshoe Falls up close. As we walked from the parking lot, we could see a rainbow created from the mist of the falls.
Though the best view of Horseshoe Falls is from the Canadian side, we can see the water flowing to the falls and then look over the bridge. The mist and the sun created a well-defined rainbow over the water.
Three Sisters Islands
We then drove over to the Three Sisters Islands that lie off the south shoreline of Goat Island. The islands are named Celinda, Angelina, and Asenath, the daughters of General Parkhurst Whitney, one of the more prominent early settlers of Niagara Falls.
Goat Island is connected to the Three Sisters Islands by pedestrian bridges that allow us to walk to all three islands for great views of the raging rapids in the Niagara River right before its descent over the Horseshoe Falls.
In the distance, we could see the Niagara Power Station Intake towers.
Buffalo
We drove through several roadside parks providing picnic areas and riverwalk access. We stopped at the Upper Niagara Intake Observation Area for a closer look at the tunnels that divert water to the power station, but we could not get very close because of the chain link fence around it. We were amazed at how calm the Niagara River was just a few miles from the falls.
We followed the roads that took us as close to the river in the Buffalo suburb of Tonawanda. We then cut directly over to the Freedom Wall. The wall is 300 feet long and features 15-foot-tall portraits of 28 influential Black Americans throughout history. Unfortunately, when we got to the wall, they were working on the roads in front of it and had it covered up.
So we continued into the downtown area to see Canalside. It was lunchtime and as we drove through this popular area, I could not find a parking spot, so we continued south with the intent to come back on the return trip.
We drove down the Buffalo Skyway to Buffalo Harbor State Park. This park has a beach and a 1,100-slip marina, giving us our first views of Lake Eire.
As we continued south, we were amazed at the number of old grain silos we saw. When the Eire Canal was completed in 1825, Buffalo was the terminus. Now, grain could move across the western Great Lakes to Buffalo, where it was unloaded and transferred to canal boats. This was labor-intensive until Buffalo Engineers invented and built the grain elevator in the 1840s. As Buffalo became more important as a grain port, the number of silos and grain elevators increased. Buffalo’s primacy in the grain business faded in the mid-1900s, and now many of the silos sit unused.
We then continued down the coast of Lake Eire until we reached Eighteen Mile Creek boat launch near Derby for lunch. It was not a clean park or creek, so we ate lunch in the truck.
Kazoo Factory
We continued to The Original American Kazoo Company in Eden; this factory was established in 1916 as the first metal kazoo factory and is the only metal kazoo factory in North America.
We checked in at the Kazoo Boutique Gift Shop in the front of the building, which had a collection of largely women’s fashion accessories that bears no connection (other than entrance) to the Kazoo factory. The boutique owner took us into the back, where counters were set up with various historical kazoos of different sizes and shapes. On the other side of the counters was the kazoo factory, where employees with disabilities were making kazoos.
She gave us a brief lesson on the culture, history, and manufacture of kazoos, and then, for $3, let Lisa assemble a kazoo using one of the machines. We were then allowed to look through the counters on our own. It was silly fun.
Canalside
We then returned to Buffalo to explore Canalside, a revitalized historic waterfront district once the western terminus of the Erie Canal.
We parked the truck in a paid parking lot and walked to see Shark Girl. Shark Girl is an absurd fiberglass statue of a girl with a shark’s head sitting on a rock by the Buffalo River. This public art piece has become a popular selfie spot. Another fiberglass sculpture of an entire living room painted green was a short distance away.
We then walked to the Buffalo and Erie County Naval & Military Park, which had the sub sail of the USS Boston sticking out from the sidewalk as if it had just emerged from the street. We walked over to the gift shop and indoor museum. It was already around 3 pm, so we did not buy a ticket to go inside, but we did walk over to the decommissioned US Naval vessels anchored in the Buffalo River nearby, including the Cleveland-class cruiser USS Little Rock, the Fletcher-class destroyer USS The Sullivans, and the submarine USS Croaker. Along the boardwalk, we also found some mounted military jets, other military hardware, and a veteran’s park with several monuments.
We continued down the boardwalk to the mouth of the river, where several boat tours launched. There, we could see the Buffalo Main Light across the river. This 60-foot-tall tower was lit in 1833 and deactivated in 1914. The foundation material was stone molehead, and the octagonal lighthouse was limestone and cast iron. The tower is the oldest and still stands in its original location in Buffalo.
We then returned to the main canalside area to a warehouse where they were building a historically authentic Erie Canal Boat. They were recreating Gov. DeWitt Clinton’s Packet Boat, Seneca Chief, the first canal boat that sailed on the completed Eire Canal from the Great Lakes to Manhattan. We talked with the people there and learned that the Packet Boat project is a community boatbuilding effort with volunteers and students involved in each process step. The goal is to sail it down the Eire Canal once it is completed.
Canalside is primarily an event space; there was not much else to see since there was no event.
Pearl Street Brewery
Pearl Street Grill & Brewery is a large multi-level brewery spread over four floors and 9 bars – all serving house-made craft beer from holding tanks in the basement.
The 1841 building had New Orleans-style wrap-around copper-roofed patios with hundreds of blooming hanging baskets. A huge tap is mounted outside of the building.
We ordered a flight of beers: I Look Real Good Today (American IPA), Brunch with Greedo (India Pale Lager), Sinkin Sully (New England IPA), and Blue-Eyed Blueberry Blonde (Fruit Beer).
Though we did not like their beers, we did like the artwork on their beer labels.
Watson’s Chocolates
We then went to Watson’s Chocolate in Elmwood Village for sponge candy.
Sponge candy is a regional confection found primarily in Western New York. It is a crunchy, lightly toasted toffee, or the “sponge,” completely coated with milk or dark chocolate. “Fairy food candy” in Wisconsin and “seafoam” on the West Coast are similar confections. While its exact origin is a mystery, experts generally agree it began popping up in Buffalo candy shops sometime in the 1940s or ‘50s.
Watson’s was located in Elmwood Village, an upscale neighborhood with quaint shops, funky boutiques, open-air cafes, restaurants, coffee houses, and pubs along a tree-lined parkway. There is a significant, youthful presence of students from Buffalo State College at its north end. Unfortunately, the Village is experiencing a “high-end blight” caused by speculators and stratospheric rent that has caused many stores to shutter.
Watson’s has been an Elmwood Village staple for over 70 years and four generations of Watsons. Managed and run by people in the neighborhood, it has developed a reputation for having Buffalo’s Best Sponge Candy. We bought a box of sponge candy (very expensive!) and got some Sponge Candy Ice Cream to enjoy at a table on the sidewalk just outside their store.
Historic Flight of Five Locks
We left Buffalo and started heading back to the campsite. We decided to take a route that would take us through Lockport to see the “Flight of Five Locks.” The Flight of Five was constructed in 1825 as five canal locks meant to lift boats to the Niagara Escarpment in five stages, some sixty feet. The original locks were replaced by a larger flight of double locks constructed between 1836 and 1847. These locks numbered 67 to 71. Two (34 & 35) replaced these five locks between 1910 and 1914. These two new locks were built parallel to the five locks.
Between the two sets of locks are statues of a photographer and twelve lock tenders called “The Lock Tenders Tribute Monument.” The monument was created from an 1897 photo of the lock tenders on the stairs.
It was interesting seeing the two sets of locks next to each other. The Flight of Five locks seemed so small.
We got back to the camper around 7 pm.
Thursday, Aug 11
Since check-in was at 2 pm at our following location, and it was only a couple hours away, we decided to go out for breakfast at Youngstown Village Diner, which was only 15 minutes away. We got a great table overlooking the Niagara River.
After breakfast, we packed up and took off around 11 am for the Family Affair Campground in North East, PA.