Aug 30, Monday
Weather: 81/61 Sunny Morning, Partly Cloudy Afternoon
Hy-land RV Park and Campground
The drive to Hy-land Park was not too bad. Lisa did have to cross a very high and long bridge at Green Bay. Between Green Bay and Sturgeon Bay we hit a stretch of road that caused the truck to vibrate for about 20 miles. My initial impression of Door County was that it was not as scenic as I expected.
We arrived at the campground around 1:00. Because of COVID, they did not let you enter the office, but they were there to greet us when we pulled in. She was very friendly and gave us a cable box (that we never used), a map with information about the campground, and, at my request, a handful of Door County attraction brochures. I had explicitly locked in Site #31, which was a shaded full hookup site for our stay based on reviews. It turned out to be a nice 100-foot-deep site, but the utilities were in the middle of the site, so I could not get back in all the way because of the length of my power cord. There was not much vegetation between sites, but there were some trees that gave us a little privacy and distance. We discovered an oak tree above us when the wind blew, and we were bombarded with acorns on the roof.
Bailey’s Harbor Cruise
After we set up, I called Bailey Harbor Cruises and booked a cruise for that afternoon. The weather was excellent, and I knew we were expecting less favorable weather later in the week. This was a two-hour narrated cruise with great water views of Cana Island, the historic “Bird Cage” Lighthouse, and the Baileys Harbor Range Lights. Though we passed several shipwreck sites, we could barely see deep enough into the water on one of them. We also saw some beautiful waterfront homes and lots of scenic coastlines.
We were shown how ships use the two range lights to steer between the shallow shoals on either side of the bay. We also learned that the Bailey Harbor Lighthouse was now privately owned and no longer being maintained. It is known for its unique “birdcage” structure at the top. It was put into operation in 1853, but it developed a bad reputation because though it marked the location of the harbor, it provided no help in helping ships navigate into the harbor past the shallow shoals. In 1869, it was replaced by the Cana Lighthouse, which helped mark the location of the harbor, and the Range Lighthouses, which helped them navigate into it.
Both the Captain and Guide, who wore a lighthouse keeper’s hat, kept the stories and information going the entire cruise. We learned that the Guide was a volunteer at the Harbor Range Lighthouses and took a lot of pride in their restoration work. They both gave us plenty of information about the geography, the history of Bailey Harbor, the lighthouses, and some local culture. It was a lovely cruise.
AC Tap
During the cruise, the AC Tap Bar & Grill was recommended as a local place for quality food and authentic cheese curds, so we decided to go for dinner. It had the feel of a local neighborhood bar.
Door County Ice Cream Factory and Sandwich Shoppe
On returning to our camper, we stopped in Sister Bay at the Door County Ice Cream Factory for dessert. This locally-owned business makes its own ice cream, and it tastes great.
Aug 31, Tuesday
Weather: 73/57 Sunny skies
Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant
We went to Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant in Sister Bay for breakfast. This family-owned, casual dining restaurant is known for its Swedish cuisine and Scandinavian experience, especially for the grass roofs where goats graze on summer days. We both ordered the “Swedish Pancake Special,” which included Swedish pancakes, eggs, and a choice of meat, of which we picked Swedish meatballs. The pancakes came with lingonberries, butter, and syrup. Swedish pancakes differ from regular pancakes because they contain more eggs and milk and no leavening, such as baking powder. This made them look more like crepes.
The goats were not on the roof when we arrived, but when we left the restaurant, we found everyone staring up at the roof and taking pictures. We went around the back of the restaurant to see how they got the goats on the roof and found the ramp they used. It was pretty silly.
After breakfast, we walked around the downtown area of Sisters Bay and along the beach. The beach and the water were beautiful.
Jacksonport
We then headed down to Jacksonport to see its farmer’s market. It was a pretty small market, but we bought some cherry-topped brownie bundt cake and brownie cupcakes. We also like petting the llama that they had there.
45th Parallel Wayside
On the way up County 57 toward Bailey’s Harbor, we stopped briefly at a wayside that provided a good example of the Niagara Escarpment. There was also a sign there that pointed out that we were near the 45th parallel or halfway between the equator and the north pole.
Bailey’s Harbor Range Lighthouses
On the way back to our trailer, we drove down a “Rustic Road” road and found the Range Lighthouses we had seen during the previous cruise. The Rustic Road system in Wisconsin consists of scenic roads that are not meant to be major through routes but have lightly traveled local access. There was a parking lot near a beach, so we decided to check out the beach and the lighthouses. The lower-range lighthouse was near the road, but the upper-range lighthouse was 980 feet away and down a nice boardwalk. The upper-range lighthouse also consisted of the lighthouse keeper’s house.
The Ridges Sanctuary owned and maintained the range lighthouses, formed in 1937 as Wisconsin’s first land trust. It was initially formed to conserve 30 acres around the lighthouse, but today, it conserves over 1,600 acres around Bailey’s Harbor area. Inside the sanctuary is a network of boardwalks and dirt trails for exploring the area. We walked on a boardwalk trail for about a half-mile to their nice nature center. The Cook-Albert Fuller Nature Center is their education outreach initiative and exhibits on the area’s cultural and natural history (as well as bathrooms!).
Door Bluff Headlands County Park
After dropping our cupcakes off at the camper, we continued north to the Door Bluff Headlands County Park. The park is the most northerly point of the Door County Peninsula and has been left in its rugged state as a nature preserve except for the gravel entrance road. It is known for its towering bluffs, which provide spectacular views of Hedgehog Harbor and Green Bay. This trail is rather rugged, with many washed-out roots, and it follows the edge of the bluff through a dense cedar forest. There is one bald outcropping that provides incredible unobstructed views of Green Bay.
Windiest Road
After leaving the park, we headed toward Northport. Between Gills Rock and Northport is a stretch of road known as Wisconsin’s windiest, where the road curves 15 times without any discernible reason. Supposedly, it was designed by a local architect, Jens Jensen, to slow down traffic and maximize their views of nature, but other theories are more fantastical.
Northport
Our travels northward ended at Northport, where we saw a car ferry that takes you to Washington Island.
Hotz Memorial Park
Just north of Newport State Park is Hotz Memorial Park, considered the quieter alternative to the busier state park. We enjoyed our short walk on the beach.
Newport State Park
We next drove through Newport State Park and stopped at the beach. We discovered that this was an International Dark Sky Park, so we planned on returning during the evening soon to see it.
Ellison Bluff State Natural Area
As we continued south, we crossed the peninsula to visit Ellison Bluff State Natural Area. This hidden park had a beautiful paved drive down a three-quarter-mile road to a wooden observation deck over the edge of a 100-foot limestone cliff. There’s also an enclosed catwalk that extends over the cliff to provide another perspective and breathtaking view. I still have not figured out why they built the road through several trees.
Rowleys Bay Resort
After we left Ellison Bluff, we headed back over to the east side of the peninsula to check out Rowleys Bay Resort. We had seen billboards for Grandma’s Swedish Bakery, which was located there, which we were also excited to visit. When we arrived, we found the place closed for the season, with very few cars around the lodge. The Bakery closed at 2 pm and was only open on certain days. It was a disappointing stop.
Wild Tomato Wood-Fired Pizza in Fish Creek
It was about 4 pm, so since we had a booked sunset cruise in Fish Creek at 6 pm that evening we decided to find a place for dinner near their marina. We settled on Wild Tomato Wood-Fired Pizza which had a nice outdoor area. Their wood-fired pizzas are made from scratch from ingredients from the surrounding area.
Fish Creek Scenic Sunset Live Music Tour
We were able to board the tour boat around 5:30 pm and got great seats in the back that faced backward and provided great panoramic views. The boat was less than half full, which made it even more enjoyable. Our guide, Ben Larson, played the guitar and sang a fun collection of songs while providing brief narratives of the passing sites we passed. We traveled north along Peninsula State Park and Eagle Bluff Lighthouse and then south past the Strawberry Islands and Millionaires Row, where we saw large mansions on a bluff. We had a beautiful, calm evening, and the sunset was spectacular.
Sep 1, Wednesday
Weather: 73/54 Sunny
Koepsel’s Farm Market
Just up the road from the campground was Koepsel’s Farm Market, which had cute, quirky statues outside. Inside was full of every Door County food product, especially a considerable collection of jams. We bought a six-pack of beers made in various breweries in Wisconsin.
Grandma Tommy’s
We continued south and stopped at Grandma Tommy’s. It was another Farm and Souvenir Store that specializes in Door County products. They sold Cherry Mimosas and Blueberry Fizzes on tap, and you were invited to sit outside on their lawn furniture.
Door County Maritime Museum
Located along Sturgeon Bay’s waterfront, the Door County Maritime Museum helps visitors understand the area’s maritime history. The tower had a great viewing deck that provided great views of Sturgeon Bay and the ship-building yards.
Portage Park
After leaving the museum, we drove to the canal and Portage Park nearby. The high dikes on either side of the canal kept us from being able to see the canal. The Park was very small but we could view Lake Michigan from the truck while eating lunch.
Renard’s Cheese
We continued south and stopped at Renards Cheese Factory in Algoma, WI. All we found was a store with a booth where they offered tastings of their products. All other parts of the factory were closed to the public. We did buy some Whip String Cheese (soft, mild cheese that comes in long, thin whips) and some Cheese Curds.
Potawatomi State Park
After leaving Renard’s Cheese Factory, we checked out Potawatomi State Park. We drove through the park clockwise, and the first part of the loop took us through the park’s interior, which was heavily wooded and shady with tall trees. The loop then went along the shoreline, and we could stop at several viewpoints that overlooked Sturgeon Bay. The campground has 123 campsites, but only 40 have electricity, and they seem well-shaded. Most of the campsites looked available when we drove through. They have a wooden observation tower, but it was closed for decay. We were told that there are plans to restore it.
Mistletoe Holiday House
Afterward, we headed north and stopped at Target and Walgreens in Sturgeon Bay for supplies. We then headed up Hwy 42 since we usually took the coastal route and might have missed something. We did find the Mistletoe Holiday House open and stopped to look at all the various themed ornaments and other holiday decorations.
Fish Boil at the Old Post Office
A mandatory experience in Door County is to attend a fish boil, and the Old Post Office Restaurant has a reputation for providing the best experience. It was in a restored 1900s post office that looked like an old southern mansion and offered beautiful views of Lake Michigan.
A fish boil consists of watching a Boil Master cook your dinner of Lake Michigan Whitefish in a pot over a roaring open fire. Scandinavians are credited with bringing it to the country more than one hundred years ago to feed a large number of people. Today it is one of Door County’s biggest tourist attractions.
The dinner was at 6 pm, but if you wanted to watch the fish boil, we needed to be there by at least 5:30 pm. We arrived a little after 5 pm, early as usual, and had a beer at the outside bar area they had set up near the fire. A large kettle of water was already boiling when we arrived, and as people arrived, we moved over to the fire pit, which had benches around it.
The fish boil was conducted by Jeremy “Torch” Klaubauf, who was the Boil Master. He gave us a detailed narrative of the history and fish boiling techniques while he tended the fire and later boiled our meal. First, he added small potatoes and onions to the large kettle over the fire. He then showed us a big perforated pot with cut-up raw white fish before adding it to the boiling water. After 12 minutes, he threw a can of kerosene on the fire, which caused the pot to boil over, removing the fish oils that had accumulated on top.
Next, we were directed to our assigned tables. We had asked to be placed outdoors and got a great table on their front porch with unobstructed lake views. The staff brought us our meal: fresh whitefish, small red potatoes, little onions, and homemade Pumpkin, Lemon, and Zucchini bread. Before they gave us the plates, the waiter deboned the fish for us, which we were told was a unique service of this restaurant. It all tasted great, though Lisa passed off her onions to me. At the end of the meal, we were served Door County Cherry Pie with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (we had to pay extra for the ice cream).
The temperature was perfect, and we saw the sunset while we ate our meal. Unfortunately, the sun hid behind the hills of Peninsula State Park just before it set, but it was still a beautiful view.
Newport State Park
The weather forecast showed increasing cloudiness for the rest of the week, so after dinner, we decided to take advantage of the clear skies and ran out to Newport State Park, designated an International Dark Sky Park, to see the stars.
Because it was getting dark fast, we rushed out to the park, parked quickly, and picked a spot near the walkway to find our way back to the truck easily. I also wanted enough light to make sure I did not place our chairs on top of one of the many anthills I had seen in the area when we visited the park last time.
A few dozen people were around us, including a group with a large telescope. We stayed until about 10 pm, but the sky did not get as dark as I expected and took a long time. We were able to see the Milky Way pretty well. Though we had brought our jackets, it started getting pretty cold when we called it quits. We both decided that if there were a next time, we would bring blankets.
Sep 2, Thursday
Weather: 72/48 Sunny
Carroll House Restaurant
Went to the Carroll House Restaurant for breakfast around 9:30 am. They had a reputation for having the best Waffles and French Toast that were stuffed with cherry cream cheese and topped with cherries. I ordered the waffles, and Lisa ordered the French toast.
Cana Island Lighthouse
We then drove over to the Cana Island Lighthouse by Bailey’s Harbor. You had to ride a hay wagon over the causeway to explore the island. The driver of the hay wagon said that they were not doing tours of the tower that day but would be open tomorrow, so we decided to wait until the next day to visit the island.
Cave Point County Park
We followed the eastern coastline down to Cave Point County Park, which we both agreed was probably the prettiest place in Door County. The shoreline consists of a wave-worn limestone shoreline to walk along and enjoy the beautiful views and clear water. There were spots where caves were formed, and when the waves hit them, they sounded like a drum beat. We walked for about a mile up the shoreline and back, taking frequent breaks to enjoy the view.
Whitefish Dunes State Park
On the other side of the bay was the Whitefish Dunes State Park, where the largest dunes are located. They were not as big as what we found on Michigan’s shores. We walked around the picnic area where there were some information signs about shipwrecks, and then along the large beach area. On the trail to the beach, they had some informational signs and displays about the Native American settlements that once were in the area.
Egg Harbor
We then decided to go into Egg Harbor because we had driven through it several times but had not stopped. We bought a flight of beers at the One Barrel Brewing Company and took pictures with their penguins. Then we went across the street to look at the Main Street Market but found it not much more than a grocery store.
Wild Orchard Market
We then ran up the highway to the Wild Orchard Market. We enjoyed looking at all their fresh fruits and vegetables, but they were noted for Sweetango apples, so we bought a bag to take. Their caramel apples were tempting, but we settled on some Apple Cider Donuts instead.
Not Licked Yet
We continued to Fish Creek for dinner at Not Licked Yet Frozen Custard. Located just off the highway in a dip near Fish Creek, they are noted for their custard and environment. They have a small custard stand where you order and pick up your food, and they have no indoor seating. Outside, they had a playground, many Adirondack chairs along the creek, and several picnic tables. They have a lot of ducks and encourage people to feed them popcorn. The prices were high. We were shocked that they sold a slice of pie for $5.50 and a whole pie costing $33! We both ordered sandwiches for dinner and then returned to get some custard.
Peninsula State Park
After dinner, we drove through Peninsula State Park. It had a great coastal drive. We stopped at several turn-offs, including Eagle Point Lighthouse and its new observation tower. The observation tower is unique because there are stairs and a very long ramp for those unable to climb the stairs.
We made it back to the camper around 7:30 pm.
Sep 3, Friday
Weather: 70/55 Sunny in the morning, Cloudy in the afternoon
Cana Island Light Station
After enjoying some of the apple cider donuts we bought the day before, we left the camper when the Cana Island Light Station opened at 10 am. Once, we parked in the parking lot and took the complimentary hay wagon to the island. It was an incredibly bumpy ride. Once we got there, we could climb the lighthouse, tour the lightkeeper’s house, and view the oil house that once stored the fuel for the lighthouse lamp, the only six-sided stone structure in the Great Lakes.
Edgewood Orchard Galleries
This art gallery has a very nice outdoor sculpture garden with a nice walking trail and benches. There are several galleries housed in a stone fruit barn built in 1918 and in the bricked courtyard, glassed portico, and fine leaded-glass windows.
West Coast
We then drove to Egg Harbor to take Horseshoe Bay Road (Hwy G) and Bay Shore Drive (Hwy B). We stopped at Egg Harbor Beach for lunch before going down the coast. We could not see the coast much because of the high trees and homes, but we got a few good views. At George K Pinney County Park, we stopped at the boat launch to admire the limestone cliffs of an old quarry.
Sturgeon Bay
We continued to drive down the coastline until we hit Sturgeon Bay, where we peaked into the ship-building yards.
East Coast
On the way back, we tried to drive along the peninsula’s east coast but could not find roads that would take us very far. We did stop at a couple of boat launches for pictures. Just south of Jacksonport, we cut across the peninsula to Egg Harbor.
Shipwrecked Brew Pub
We then stopped at the Shipwrecked Brew Pub in Egg Harbor and ordered a flight.
Sister Bay
On our first cruise, we were told that the best fish fry in Door County, especially for Perch, was at Sister Bay Bowl on Fridays. The restaurant and the bowling alley were busy when we got there, but we were able to snag a table in the bar area which was not managed by the waiting list.
After dinner, we walked around the downtown area and stopped at the Door County Creamery for some ice cream.
A Marinafest festival was happening in Fish Creek over the weekend, but the weather looked like it might be pretty rainy. A few tents were set up, but it looked like it would be a pretty small affair. We did find this interesting Viking ship set up for the festival.
Back to the camper a little after 7 pm.
Sep 4, Saturday
Weather: 68/61 Rain in the morning, Cloudy afternoon
It was a rainy morning, so we decided to visit some museums.
Country Kitchen
We left the camper around 10 am and went to the Summer Kitchen for breakfast. Known as Door County’s Garden Restaurant, this restaurant in Ephraim is known for old-fashioned homemade cooking. It was a cute restaurant, and we enjoyed the breakfast.
Belgian Heritage Museum
We drove along the west coastline along the same path as the previous day to Sturgeon Bay, and then we went directly to the Belgian Heritage Museum in Brussels. This little museum was situated in a decommissioned church with mostly information boards. The docents were very attentive, and I asked them many questions. One unusual thing we saw was all the tombstones clumped together on the lawn next door. We found that one of the previous priests found the church cemetery in such terrible condition that he felt the need to clump all the tombstones together. The graves are still scattered around the lawn but are now unmarked.
Tornado Memorial County Park
On the way back, we took side roads and stopped in Garner to see the Tornado Memorial County Park. It marks the location where 57 of the 76 inhabitants of Williamsonville were killed in a firestorm on the same day as the Peshtigo Fire on October 8, 1871. A huddle of 35 people, men, women, and children, who sought safety in a potato field was burned beyond recognition. A well, now a historical monument at the park, was where seven men sought protection from the fire, and five survived.
Door County Historical Museum in Sturgeon Bay
The big attraction for me was the spectacular Seasons of Life wildlife diorama, which contains over 100 species of native birds and animals, including a black bear, a white-tailed deer, and a Wisconsin badger. The rest of the displays in the museum were typical of a county museum and told the story from the settlement of Door County onward. They also had a Pioneer Fire Station with a restored 1920 fire truck.
Downtown Sturgeon Bay
Just down the street was the main shopping area, so we walked down the street, taking pictures of the various painted cherries they had on display and window shopping. The entire time we walked around, a bachelorette party went up and down the street on a pedal trolley, making lots of noise and having a good time. Many stores were closed, but we stopped in Door County Candy and had fun looking at all the novelty candy. We also walked around the Gnoshery, which had many fun board games. We checked out Pooh’s Corner Pub, and even though the sign was cute, the bar was pretty much a dive, so we did not stay. The Masonic Lodge had an interestingly painted Sturgeon outside it. For dinner, we decided to return to the Gnoshery, order some old-fashioned sodas and sandwiches, and eat at the outdoor tables. The food and service were excellent.
East Coast
On the way back, we tried to follow the peninsula’s east coast as much as possible, bypassing Whitefish Dunes State Park. We returned to the camper around 6:30 pm, where we ate dinner.
Sep 5, Sunday
Weather: 73/55 Sunny morning, Partly cloudy in the afternoon
We decided to relax today. We went to the laundromat in the morning. I flushed our black and grey tanks well and performed minor preventive maintenance. We enjoyed some more Wisconsin beer. Later that afternoon, we went to Piggly Wiggly to get some groceries.
September 6
Weather: 73/55
Left around 10:45 am, heading for High Cliff State Park