Journey to Natural Tunnel State Park, Virginia
Today, we packed up quickly and headed out, traveling through the Cumberland Gap to Natural Tunnel State Park in Virginia. The weather was clear, and the roads were excellent—mainly divided highways, which made for a smooth drive. One of the journey’s highlights was driving through the Cumberland Gap Tunnel, a marvel of engineering at the Kentucky-Virginia border. While the tunnel was impressive, it made Lisa a little nervous as we passed through.
Natural Tunnel State Park
Upon arriving, we found our campsite to be spacious, allowing us to set up quickly and head out to explore. The centerpiece of the park is the Natural Tunnel, a colossal natural limestone cave carved by Stock Creek.
Natural Tunnel
The Natural Tunnel is an awe-inspiring natural formation, measuring an impressive 200 feet wide and 80 feet high. Its sheer size has allowed it to serve as a railroad tunnel since 1893. According to legend, Daniel Boone was the first European to see the tunnel, and it has been a popular tourist attraction for centuries. We took a chairlift down to the mouth of the tunnel, marveling at its grandeur from a safe distance. Although access inside is restricted due to the tunnel’s continued use as a railway, the surrounding 300-foot cliffs added to the dramatic landscape. One of these cliffs, known as Lover’s Leap, is tied to a poignant Cherokee tale about a forbidden love between a Cherokee maiden and a Shawnee warrior, who tragically leaped to their deaths to be together.
Afterward, we strolled along Stock Creek and crossed a pedestrian bridge that brought us to Carter’s Cabin, a reconstructed homestead dedicated to the Carter family, who played a significant role in the area’s colonial history. The cabin offered a fascinating glimpse into the lives of early pioneers in the region.
Journey to St Paul, VA
After leaving the park, we were ready for lunch and headed toward Sugar Hill Brewing Company in St. Paul, Virginia, about 50 minutes away.
Our journey showcased the beauty of the Appalachian Mountain/s. Starting on State Route 871, we traveled through rolling hills, forested slopes, and limestone cliffs. Joining U.S. Route 23 South, we passed gentle valleys and farmland before reaching Big Stone Gap, nestled in a scenic mountain valley.
Continuing on U.S. Route 23 South, the road climbed through Benge’s Gap. We stopped at a pullover here and admired the stunning views of rugged ridges, dense forests, and rocky outcrops. After leaving the gap, the terrain softened into rolling hills and farmland as we followed U.S. Route 58 Alternate along the Clinch River into St. Paul.
Sugar Hill Brewing Company
We finally got to the Sugar Hill Brewing Company in St Paul and ordered a flight of their beers. We sampled a flight of their craft beers, with Lisa favoring a Belgian brew and me opting for a robust stout. Lisa ordered a hamburger for lunch while I went for their meatloaf special. Lisa stated that her burger was good, but I found the meatloaf slightly mushy in texture.
Drive Back
Afterward, we returned to the park, enjoying the picturesque drive through rolling hills and scenic gaps along the way.
Back at State Park
Back at the state park, we made a quick dash to the swimming pool, which was closing in just 15 minutes. Despite the rush, the cool water provided a refreshing end to the day. Later, we sought out a movie highlighting local history. I hoped to watch Trail of the Lonesome Pine, a classic film tied to the area’s outdoor play tradition, but it wasn’t available on streaming platforms. Instead, we began a Civil War documentary about Kentucky battles, which helped contextualize some of the places we’d visited. As the battles blurred together, we switched gears and watched RV travel videos on YouTube to unwind for the evening.
June 24, 2019 – Cumberland Gap and Bristol, TN/VA
Cumberland Gap, TN & Tri-State Peak
The next day, we headed to Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, roughly an hour away. After a slight detour, we found ourselves in the small town of Cumberland Gap. Though its history as a critical passage for westward expansion is significant, the city now feels like many others bypassed by modern highways—quiet and a bit weathered, with a few restored B&Bs and coffee shops.
We discovered a trailhead leading to Tri-State Peak, where the borders of Tennessee, Virginia, and Kentucky converge. The 1.6-mile trail was steep, and a warning sign mentioned washed-out sections. We carefully continued despite some obstacles, including a blocked-off, rotting bridge. Lisa decided to stop midway, but I pushed on to the summit. A gazebo at the top marked where the three states meet. Though dense trees mostly obscured the views, the unique experience of standing at this geographical intersection was rewarding.
Cumberland Gap Tunnel
After looking at a map, we found that the Visitor Center was on the other end of the Cumberland Gap Tunnel, so we headed that way.
Cumberland Gap National Historic Park Visitor Center
When we arrived at the Cumberland Gap National Historical Park Visitor Center, we began with a short film about the Cumberland Gap. The movie focused heavily on Daniel Boone’s challenges with the indigenous people, briefly mentioning Dr. Thomas Walker, who explored the gap years before Boone. The portrayal of the indigenous people as adversaries felt one-sided—after all, wasn’t this their land first?
After the film, we had an engaging conversation with a knowledgeable Park Ranger about the movie and the Gap’s history. He shared our critique of the Boone-centric narrative and explained how Hollywood and popular culture have exaggerated Boone’s role. Many other figures played more significant roles in the exploration and use of the Gap, but their contributions often go unrecognized.
The ranger showed us a relief map of the area and explained why the Cumberland Gap was so critical. Unlike other gaps in the Cumberland Mountains, it wasn’t the lowest or the widest. What set it apart was its location along a fault line that created a continuous path through the entire Appalachian mountain chain. This route led to “The Narrows,” a natural pass through rugged Pine Mountain, which included a fordable section of the Cumberland River. Other gaps only provided passage through one mountain chain, while this one connected settlers to the Warrior’s Path and, ultimately, the Kentucky River.
The ranger suggested we drive up to the Pinnacle Overlook. Though it sounded like a good idea, we discovered the road was a steep, winding four-mile ascent with sharp hairpin turns and no guardrails. Vehicles longer than 20 feet were prohibited, and with our truck at 19.3 feet, we just made the cut. The drive was an adventure, but the breathtaking views at the top were worth it. From the overlook, we could see the Cumberland Gap, the Cumberland Gap Tunnel, and the surrounding landscape stretching into the distance. Along the way, we even spotted several deer grazing near the road.
Bristol, VA
After leaving the visitor center, we headed to Bristol. Hungry from skipping lunch, we searched for restaurants in Bristol and settled on Quaker Steak & Lube, a downtown spot on State Street.
The drive to Bristol was scenic, with mountains, winding roads, and several gaps along the way. At one overlook, we stopped to admire a veterans’ memorial honoring those who had served. The route offered glimpses of the region’s rugged beauty and historical significance.
Bristol is a unique city, straddling the border of Tennessee and Virginia. Downtown, State Street runs directly along the state line, with Tennessee flags on one side and Virginia flags on the other. A large, iconic “BRISTOL” sign arches over the street, proclaiming the city as “A Good Place to Live” and making for a perfect photo opportunity.
Quaker Steak & Lube
Quaker Steak & Lube, a chain housed in repurposed Quaker State Oil Change stations, was a fun choice. The restaurant’s décor celebrated its automotive roots and Bristol’s renowned NASCAR track with racing memorabilia and car-themed touches throughout. The menu was extensive, but we kept it simple with burgers and beers. I ordered their Lube Burger, piled high with bacon, cheese, mushrooms, buffalo sauce, and blue cheese dressing—it was deliciously messy. Lisa opted for a burger with a side salad, featuring an incredible jalapeño ranch dressing she raved about.
After lunch, we explored downtown Bristol, taking in the charming shops and local flavor. We also visited a nearby park that featured several statues, a veterans’ memorial, and a display with a large military helicopter.
Satisfied with our outing, we returned to our trailer just before a major thunderstorm rolled in. We enjoyed the sound of the rain from the comfort of our campsite, reflecting on a day filled with history, scenic drives, and good food.
Back at Campsite
When we returned, Lisa decided we needed to get some laundry done despite it being late. We had to wait for the two machines at the campground to become available, and they seemed to be the slowest washing machines I’d ever seen. By the time the laundry was finished, we were exhausted and went straight to bed.