Thursday, October 17
Santa Rosa Campground
Today, we set out for Santa Rosa Campground in Santa Rosa, NM. Lisa drove most of the way and noted that while the winds were better than the previous day, we still encountered strong gusts. The landscape along the route was vast and open, with occasional patches of green marking the areas where water could be found. There wasn’t much in terms of Route 66 nostalgia along this stretch, but the long, quiet drive allowed us to enjoy the sheer expanse of the New Mexico desert.
Lake Sumner State Park Rest Area
Looking for a break from the road, we ventured an hour south to Lake Sumner State Park. This was a welcome detour, especially considering this area’s lack of iconic Route 66 attractions. The rest area, funded privately, stood on the lake’s edge and featured several memorials. The most notable ones honored military veterans and the first Hispanic governor of New Mexico, a nod to the state’s diverse and rich history. Walking around, we took in the peaceful surroundings and read the plaques detailing the stories behind the memorials.
Billy the Kid Museum
Next, we stopped at the Billy the Kid Museum in Fort Sumner. This quirky museum was a treasure trove of artifacts from the Old West and Billy’s notorious life. We watched a captivating 30-minute documentary that painted Billy as both a victim and villain—a man shaped by the violence of his environment. The museum also gave insight into his youthful struggles, rise as a gunslinger, and battles with powerful landowners. His story feels larger than life, and the museum brought it to life with exhibits on the Wild West, including a mock jail cell and personal belongings of those who knew Billy the Kid.
Fort Sumner Historic Site and Bosque Redondo Memorial
From there, we continued our journey to the Fort Sumner Historic Site and Bosque Redondo Memorial, where the painful legacy of the U.S. government’s treatment of Native American tribes is preserved. The Bosque Redondo Indian Reservation, established in 1863, was the site of forced internment for the Navajo and Mescalero Apache peoples. The memorial did an outstanding job of educating visitors about the atrocities committed against these communities. We learned how the U.S. Army used brutal tactics to forcefully relocate thousands of Navajo and Apache people to this desolate area, where they faced starvation, exposure, and disease. The memorial was peaceful yet powerful, giving voice to the survivors of these tragic events. During our visit, we talked with a knowledgeable park ranger, who shared fascinating insights about her anthropological studies of the area.
Fort Sumner Cemetery
A short walk from the memorial was the Fort Sumner Cemetery, which houses the grave believed to be Billy the Kid’s final resting place. His tombstone, encased in a cage to prevent theft (a common occurrence throughout the years), had a fascinating history. The site had a collection of coins and shotgun shells left by visitors, perhaps paying tribute to the infamous outlaw. A somewhat eerie stillness surrounded the tombstone, and we spent a few moments reflecting on the fact that this was the final resting place of one of the most famous figures in American history.
Blue Hole
We stopped at the Blue Hole in Santa Rosa on our way back to the campground. The deep, turquoise artesian well is a hidden gem and was a past favorite pit stop for travelers. Its crystal-clear water remains a constant 62°F, making it a popular spot for swimming in the hot New Mexico sun. The hole is 80 feet wide at the surface and descends to 130 feet, offering a breathtakingly clear view of the underwater world below. The Blue Hole’s vivid color and serenity make it an unexpected oasis amidst the arid desert landscape.
Friday, October 18
Las Vegas, NM
We drove through the pre-1937 Route 66 route toward Santa Fe on Friday. The drive through the desert was long, but the changing scenery kept it interesting. We arrived in Las Vegas, a charming town with a vibrant history. Las Vegas has retained much of its historical architecture, and we first stopped by the Plaza Hotel, built in 1882 and known as the “Belle of the Southwest.” The hotel had a nostalgic air to it, with its elegant Victorian-style design and historical significance. After a quick visit to the hotel, we explored the plaza outside, which featured a variety of statues. One of the most interesting was a historical bridge built in Leavenworth, Kansas, adding a touch of mystery to the town’s rich past.
Pecos National Historic Park
Continuing north, we stopped at Pecos National Historic Park, a site that highlights the history of indigenous peoples in the Southwest. The park offers a deep dive into the region’s ancient cultures, showcasing their interactions with other Native tribes and the Spanish settlers. We were struck by the ruins and preserved artifacts that gave us a sense of the lives lived here centuries ago. The landscape, with its mix of desert and grassland, added to the atmosphere, making it a fitting tribute to the people who called this land home.
La Cienguilla Petroglyph Site
Our next stop was the La Cieneguilla Petroglyph Site, one of the largest collections of Native rock art in the American West. The site contains over 4,400 images, many dating back to the Pueblo era. The petroglyphs depict various scenes, from animals and figures to abstract patterns. We spent time wandering the trails in search of these ancient images. It wasn’t easy; we got turned around several times but eventually stumbled upon the petroglyphs. It was incredibly humbling to stand before these ancient symbols, some believed to date back over 1,000 years.
Downtown Santa Fe
After our petroglyph adventure, we headed to downtown Santa Fe, known for its artsy vibe and rich history. The historic center is full of adobe-style buildings, galleries, and museums, giving it an unmistakable Southwestern character. We wandered through the Plaza, where we encountered local Native American drummers and dancers performing in the open square, adding a vibrant and festive atmosphere. We also visited the Palace of the Governors, an iconic building that reminds us of the city’s colonial past. Although the traders were packing up for the day, we enjoyed seeing their jewelry and crafts laid out along the building’s portico.
Next, we went to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, a stunning church with its Romanesque architecture and rich history. The interior was breathtaking, with its soaring arches and intricate stained glass. We also passed by the Loretto Chapel, famous for its miraculous staircase, but it was closed when we arrived.
Santa Fe’s streets were lined with local art displays, many showcasing indigenous and Southwestern influences..
Evening
As dusk fell, we decided it was time to head back to our campground. The winding road back through the desert was beautiful, especially as the sun set behind the mountains. Our hearts were full of the rich history, culture, and natural beauty we had experienced, and we reflected on the incredible journey we were on as we made our way home for the night.